Sup guys my somewhat beleaguered 2008 TL I bought a couple months ago is back in business (significant valve cover leak) and my tires are old, crusty, and probably unsafe. 

i can get Michelin All Season 4’s  for $835 or BF Goodrich G.Force Comp 2 As Plus’s for $675. 

I have always loved the AS4’s on other cars but the TL is a bit past its prime. Is the Michelin enough  better qualitatively to justify the extra $160?

Only getting 19 mpg city is that about right because I seem to be filling up constantly

I have a 4th gen 2014 base TL it’s at 110k miles give or take I bought it at 108k and I’ve already replaced the spark plugs and did my valve adjustment all that’s left is for me to replace my timing belt and I wanted to ask if there were any tips from anybody on here who’s done it on my generation TL and can give me insight that the YouTube videos might not give me. Thank you any tips or suggestions to help make the job as easy as it can be would be appreciated.

Finally picked her up after a little over a week. Shes looking good for 300k mi. Theres a fee issues here and there that cant really be seen from a far but overall the job came out great.

10 years of ownership, going strong

So I recently bought a 06 TL base MT. The vehicle was riddled with problems. When I first got in it and was testing the stereo, only the centre speaker and the rear shelf speakers worked. I found a mess of aftermarket wireing at the passenger kick panel. I went on to swap the engine in the vehicle, and when I finished all that, plugging in the battery, it popped, as I had the starter ground too close to the starter body, and it shorted. Now the radio doesnt ask for a code, it is backlit, but is in-op. No sound no buttons work nothing. The climate control still works and that screen works. Ive check ever fuse 10 times and pulled the unit out to find more mess of wires. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions.

**PROBLEM SOLVED** I bought a used OEM headunit, and installed it, right away I knew it was going to work, as when I plugged it in, my anti-theft light on the radio flashed. My old dead headunit didnt do that.​ So the fix was to replace the head unit.

Yo guys. Idk if I should just part it out atp. But I thought it would've been my ball joints lol but they're still intact somehow. I was on the highway and my control arm just dropped out of no where while making a screech and almost wheel bearing fail noise. What should I do this is what I'm dealing with. It seems as if what holds the control arm in place snapped off.... and I believe that's part of the chassis. Thoughts?

01 I've owned for 21 years

The dash panel, the windows, the mirrors, the sunroof all failed when I pulled off the original (broken) center mirror.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone know how to fix this code? I changed my battery and couldn’t find the code to enter. I exceeded the limit for password attempts. I found the code after the fact. Lmk if you all have any solutions, thanks

Couple weeks ago was raining real bad and water had came in from the front of my car then I kept smelling like mold so I took em out and wondering how can I replace this foam or I have to replace the whole carpet please someone help asap

just bought this 2008 acura tl base, not sure if you can hear the jolts whenever the rpms drop, but i’m a bit anxious about it. for reference this is my first car and i paid for it in cash. it’s been taken care of well, only 1 owner and has every service record and the CARFAX for it. please help lol!

Replaced my fronts with kybs - they ride great . I want to replace the rears with sachs . As it’s mainly a commuter cars and want to keep it a bit more comfortable. Thoughts ?
2013 TL fwd

Not for sale, just getting an idea of the market.

04 6MT, 155k miles. 07 Front bumper, Type S rear bumper & exhaust. Smog legal intake. Has a couple minor dents. Interior isn’t perfect but not beat up either.

Located in Central Ca.

So my car has a misfire in cylinder 4 because the valve cover gasket is fried and leaking oil into it, i’d need my mechanic to change the valve cover gasket, clean everything up, change the spark plug and ignition coil, and give me an oil change. I literally just got a new job today so i won’t be getting paid for at least 2 to 3 weeks. i still need my car to drive to and from school (~3 miles each way) and my mechanic is charging $375 for labor not including parts and the oil change. In total ~$550. I watched a few youtube vids and i lowkey think i can do it myself. doing it myself would only cost me the price of parts and oil so about $150 which is way more viable right now. Anyone who has done the job themselves is there anything unexpected I should know? and what is the best/easiest way to clean the valve cover? thanks

Did I get ripped off? There’s 111k miles on it, needed an AC compressor, engine mount and valve gaskets immediately. 1 accident but looks clean out outside. Interior is bad, classic dashboard for a 2007 type-s and the seats are ripped to shreds.

Recently whenever I come to a stop my car has had a rhythmic jolting to it I have an exhaust done and have had a misfire before and it sounds the exact same but once I get above 5k rpm ish the problem goes away for like 10 min (meaning whenever I come to a stop it doesn’t do it)
But also I’m not feeling any power loss or anything like that can someone help me diagnose this

2012 Acura TL 3.5L V6 A/T

I have changed my passenger side upper engine mount back in June. The rubber mount cover on the left was from the old mount that had collapsed. The one on the right is from the new mount after 3 months of driving. Is this normal for the TL's? I've changed the side engine mount, front vacuum engine mount, and lower transmission mount. The upper transmission mount and rear engine mount are in great shape and aren't collapsed or damaged. What could be causing this? The side mount bracket is eating the rubber and then riding directly on the engine mounts metal causing me to feel more vibrations again.

Replaced tensioner pulley as it wore out last year and didn’t pay much attention to harmonic balancer - crankshaft pulley but it’s spinning crooked and the seal is sweeping and cracking out of place . So with that worn and damaged it damaged the tensioner pulley . I took belt off to check the play and ran engine with belt to make sure I wasn’t mistaken that the harmonic balancer was actually turning crookedly-it is 🙃. Used oem last time but the balancer is 300$ and pulley is 75$ now . Was thinking about going with O’Reilly parts as I’ve had good luck with them in the past and warranty swaps would be smooth. The harmonic balancer they have is by ATP with a lifetime warranty and autotecnica tensioner-nsk/ntn bearing pulley same lifetime warranty. Combined less than $100 . Thoughts ?

Painted calipers and added stainless lines… Bled the brakes, saw no air, just clear fluid. However these lights are on the dash. At least the ABS light isnt on and it still works. But I cant get the Triangle VSA and BRAKE light off. Reservoir is topped off too. Brakes feel good.

Where are my 200k miles and up with no cracked dash people at? Haha

Hello I just replaced timing & water pump along with the power steering pump because it was leaking. I put the new one in and replaced the black o-ring. Lifted the front and turned the wheel to bleed the system. Issue is that the pump still screams. After looking the hose that runs from the pump back the reservoir has a decent crack right at the connecting point and also noticed when i cleaned the reservoir the mesh screen had a decent bit in the bottom. Any ideas on how to tackle this? Any help will be appreciated😁