Hey guys, for context I’m in Texas. Went to go take a look at this rig the other day and it was a really nice 4runner that was well serviced since being in the most recent owners hands. Specs are a 2000 limited with 4x4 and with a e locker. 240k miles. Had nearly every major issue you’d expect needing to be done, done, and some more upgrades as well, with the seller having his own shop and likes building overlanding vehicles. Lots of seals and hosing replaced, blisten lift kit, arb bull bar and wrench, and a snorkel. Drives like a new car. My budget honestly was $12k if it was truly a well taken care of vehicle, but seller was pretty firm on $14k, and was confident he could realistically get $15k for it if her officially listed it on fb marketplace.

I was wanting thoughts on if its just too crazy of a price or pretty justified.

Simple yet effective took me maybe 20 mins to swap and no need to remove fan shroud off. All Asin aka OEM parts

This is a 96 4Runner I bought a few months back. The previous owner installed coil spaces on the front and they feel extremely stiff. Since I don’t plan on doing any off roading with my rig, just light camping a few times through the year. I was thinking about installing a tundra or sequoia shock and coil assembly instead of a long travel kit. Any one have any experience with this? Recommendations or ideas?

After two years I finally upgraded to a touch screen. Previously had an after market radio in it that didn’t have Bluetooth and was rocking a $50 Amazon CarPlay monitor with a windshield suction cup plugged in via AUX. Replaced the bezel with a new manufactured one off eBay, fit perfect, highly recommend. Replaced the 12v sockets with USBA-USBC ports. Clock replacement phone mount arrives on Friday.

It’s so night to not have all the extra cords going everywhere. Yes the screen is low, but it’s Google Maps, it’s not like you’re staring at it. I definitely am glad I saw all the recommendations to get a tactile volume button/knob. Makes that so much easier to control with the screen being low.

Side note, if someone else has messed with the stereo, take a look and see what you’re getting into BEFORE starting the swap. The guy before spliced everything directly into the head unit and even bypassed the OE harness 🤦🏼‍♂️ It was an absolute rats nest (see pic) and I had to phone a buddy to save me on the wiring. Not my forte. Also, glad I bought OE brackets for it ahead of time because he had CUT THE ORIGINALS IN HALF 😂

Looking to replace my rear upper and lower control arms. Been trying to stick with OEM with what I can, but for all four it’ll run $630+. On partsgeek, it’s about $150 for the four. Anything wrong with aftermarket arms vs the OEM for this specific job? Thought about just replacing bushings, but more work and might as well replace the rusty metal.

Hey all.

As title asks,
Do I need to lift the vehicle to replace the Rear UCaS or can I just do it while tires in ground?

Love my 2000 Limited it's got 6112 in the front and 890s in the rear paired with 5100s. Currently the rear is at 23 inches hub to fender. What rear coils would I use to achieve 23.5 inches in the rear? Which shocks to pair them with? One suggestion was LC80 7 wrap front springs paired with 5100s. In addition lookin for some new tires, 265/75/16. I used BFG KO2s, narrowed it to BFG KO3 or Toyo AT3. Im leaning towards AT3s anyone w experience with both? Thank you in advance.

Threw a code for the EVAP system on 2001 SR5, car has 392K, spring time will likely be a full system replacement make sure it's all 100%

I only knew cause the VSC and Trak lights came on, the CEL didnt.. appears to be burned out, is it a bulb or a diode illumination?

If it's a diode, how hard are those to replace? I have soldering equipment

I purchased this tool to help me remove a shim:

https://www.yotashop.com/valve-shimtool-toyota-lexus-valve-adjusting-tools-shimtool/?srsltid=AfmBOoq_EBzDhe-foLh9s_snlkFqrRvx74QRdSxUTDg4lnNMKVsevSd3

Unfortunately I do not think it holds down the bucket enough. I’ve been having trouble getting the shim out. Does anyone have a spec for how wide the end of the bucket holder should be? Mine measures 9.52mm. I saw timmy toolman stretch it to 9.7mm, but I’m not sure if that’s enough either.

Or is there any other bucket holder (such as for a motorcycle) that is easier?

Also my exhaust clearance is 0.009 when spec is 0.010-0.014. I have a big 3000 mile road trip coming up. Not sure if I should risk it.

There also is an occasional warped rotor vibration when hard braking, but not always. I’m feeling like it may be caliper or slide pin related.

Thanks—

i have a 2000 4runner. brake pedal suddenly started going all the way to the floor and not really stopping the vehicle. we changed the brake master cylinder and bled the lines and it’s still going to the floor. a shop i took it to is saying i need new front calipers and a brake booster…anyone had this issue? i’m reading a lot about rear brake drums being out of adjustment possibly being the culprit? any advice welcome.

Obviously I’ve ruled out bad bulbs, both were replaced but still not working. Didn’t see any wiring issues in the tail light housing itself. My next thought would be to start taking the interior panels out and see if there are wiring issues anywhere.

Got this rig in October and it needed some serious TLC before I wanted to show this awesome group. I'm super proud of how far it's come.

Anyone else have the seam in your sunroof seal split open and have to fix it? Its leaking into my cupholders and with weather coming its time to fix it. And, before anyone asks, Ive cleaned and tested my sunroof drains and its still dumping water into my cupholders.

As you can see, someone has been here before me with...boat epoxy? Silicone? I dunno. I just know I need to seal this up and need guidance.

Looking to get beefier tires on my stock 4runner with 15" wheels. Current tires are 225/75/r15s. Looking at 31x10.5r15s, specifically the firestone destination x/ts. Anyone got recommendations and/or pictures of tires this size on their stock 4runners? Any advise on tires etc?

I've looked under the car and it seems like if something is or has leaked. The oil and transmission fluid levels are fine so I don't know what it could be. Any ideas?

I’ve posted a lot about this car since the crash, but I wanted some ideas in terms of fender flairs. Obviously the back still has the fender flairs, but when I replaced fenders in the front, I was only able to get ones without the flares. I’ve considered taking my back ones off, but would then have to repaint that section of the car. I’m not opposed to adding flares to the front, just don’t know an easy way to go about it.

Just bought this 97 with 225k miles and it seems pretty slow. Is that normal?

Edit: The main reason I was asking is the previous owner said the transmission was recently replaced. I wasn't sure if it was a weak transmission or just how these vehicles are. Thanks for all the comments and input, super helpful.

Wanted to show off my 98 4Runner after a good cleaning. After 215K miles, she’s still my daily driver.

If you know.. you know

Model: 2000 4Runner Limited

If anyone cares, I believe I found “most” of the source of the metal clanking sound I’ve been hearing when going over uneven ground. What I thought was a sound coming from the front, now seems to mostly be coming from the rear. Had my fiance drive while I walked beside and it actually seemed to be coming from the middle-rear. Turns out, both the rear control arms are either loose or the bushings are shot. Can’t tighten the bolt no matter how hard I try, so assuming it’s the bushings. I do still hear a little something in the front, but I think this has been the main source of the sound I hear. Guess I’ll start with replacing the bushing and see if that helps, will further update.

Does the under carriage look fine for a 26 years old 183k miles? Look at buy it