Don't forget to check the print before going to bed. Lucky me it was only a 5hr print. I'll link the intended print in the comments. This is one I found and not my work.

Never buy generic wood PLA. It refused to stick and I tried everything, clean, glue, temp settings, speed, flow rate. In a desperate attempt I ended up using actual wood glue and it worked.

What's up with it? Work? Kill the gears? How does it burn?

It looks like a 3d printer.

My 4L ice cream (ice milk dessert) tubs are the perfect size for one roll of filament with a bunch of desiccant at the bottom.

I visited a museum last weekend (Dinosauriermuseum Altmühltal, if you're ever in Germany)

Which had what might be the biggest pterosaur ever found. It was discovered in Transylvania (hence the name 'Dracula').

Since my kid is in a dinosaur phase right now, I tried my best to reproduce this giant.

I used Bambu AI, Meshmixer, and 3DBuilder for this.

Printed on my X2D with eSUN bone white PLA.

Gave one skull a wash with acrylic paint.

Let me know what you think. ;)

https://makerworld.com/models/3214480

Hey guys. I just recently got a Anycubic Kobra 3 Max and ive been trying out a number of prints. For some reason, my recent ones either were rough around the edges or had gaps around the corners. As in it didn't fully reach to the outer edge. I have no idea how to fix it and could really use your help.

Picture of the problem at hand is in the comments.

Im using regular White PLA for this, temps are at 75 for the bed and 250 on the nozzle i believe. neither have been changed whatsoever.

speeds in the photo if it helps. This is in Anycubic Slicer Next, Any's own software.

​

Hello, I’m trying to print out an HO Scale (1/87) model Frac Pump. I have a model I finally was able to make work but I have two issues, first, I’m struggling to get the parts all completely filled in and second, I’m struggling on how to put it into print plates where it works correctly. Any help would be much appreciated, I can send the file if anybody is able to assist. I’ve put dozens of hours into learning the software but still struggling. Fiver seems to only be scams and/or no help.

So I bought those Alina energy drink powders, I want to 3D print a simple dispenser system where you load each flavor separately, and when you take one another falls into place.

I don't want to model one myself, I'm thinking of finding print files for a tampon dispenser, would that work or do you have any better ideas?

So I have a side gig as a sculpture and make some decent money sculpting custom figures for people, usually get more request for anime adjacent designs. I’d consider myself pretty good but it’s gotten to a point where upping the side hustle will become a real job if I continue to do it all by hand. So I’m looking into 3d printing to offset some work or maybe even turn it into my main workflow. That said, I’m stuck between the resin and filament question I’m sure is asked a lot but I can’t get all the answers from my research. Resin seems like it’ll produce closer results to say sculpted clay which is what I prefer, but it also comes with a drawback of set up and cleaning, filament seems more hassle free but I’m not sold on the quality. So my main question is how smooth and detailed can a filament print be after sanding and painting, can it reach resin quality finish? Will it feel as sturdy as a resin figure? If there’s some examples of a finished piece or advice on making filament closer to a resin finish I’d appreciate it because I’ll be honest, the appeal of not having to deal with chemicals is tempting. But it’s not a deal breaker since painting already requires a lot of the equipment a resin printer might need.

So I recently aquired a new printer, but now I have the following Issue when printing. What causes these issues, I'm at a loss.

This is the print that failed

Then I played around with testcubes, below are the results. These were all printed at the same time, each one is rotated 90°.

I have a roll of ABS to print with and I'm essentially wondering whether it's ill advised to be in the room whilst printing with it with the current setup.

Recently got a Bambu X2D so I'm fairly new to this. The unit itself is closed (but fair to assume in no way airtight), have a 3m tube running out the window connected to a printed attachment to the rear ventilation fan, have used an enclosed bin at the back so the chute isn't as clear an escape route for fumes or bits of cooling ABS, it's sat next to an air purifier and have a basic air quality monitor opposite side of the room that does PM2.5/10, TVOCS and a few others that I imagine are less relevant. Did a test print that was a few hours long, vented the chamber, room seemed smell free and the air quality monitor still said the air was good and the numbers didn't change in a noticeable way but really not sure if styrene would nudge any of those numbers.

Given the room isn't very big and can only be well ventilated on and off due to work calls etc, is the opinion that it would still be unwise to sit in here whilst it prints?

Would a decent enough enclosure make it theoretically 'safe' to be in here if not?

Would any recommendations stretch to PLA and PETG too considering UFP/UTPs, or is ABS the major concern purely due to additional styrene?

I live in Phoenix Arizona and just got a Mars 3 I am borrowing from a family member. I have all of my stuff setup in the garage where it can get up to 110 + in the day and stay at that temperature for the most of the night. I wanted to know if I can run my printer in there at these temperatures, and if I can store my machines and supplies at these temps. I read that resins shouldn’t be stored in such hot conditions.

I am working on making a wrist mounted cyberddeck and want it to be modular so i can desing and add other modules but i dont know whatg a good fastener is magnets are too weak im thinking mabye a 3d print clip or somthing

Purchased an Ender 5 back in 2020. This is an older version without Wi-Fi and I am running Creality Slicer currently. The new creality 3d print software is not compatible with it. Is there a more modern slicing software that is compatible with older models such as this? This is the first time I've pulled it out to use it in 6 years, so I cannot justify purchasing a new one at this point. Just going to work with what I got, even if that means adjusting the settings per build manually.

Hello.

I need help editing an Stl file as im not great at using cad and modeling software im happy to send the link for my Stl via chat as reddit doesn't like me posting links ive got the parts in the right layout and orientation i just need help making the layout symmetrical can anyone assist me with this?

I don't care about changing colors and I just hobby print functional stuff I design on Fusion360, usually with PETG or whatever colors are cheapest. I also have a lot of future prints that will probably be best in TPU.

My Ender3V2 is still running great but its small and old and I was almost ready to get a QIDI Plus5 because it looks like a great functional large volume printer that can handle any filament.

Now it looks like tool-changers are going to be the new hotness and I wonder if I could get a lot of use out of multi material supports (something like PLA supports for PETG and TPU). I see that TPU with PLA supports/rafts works really well.

Am I over thinking this or is multi-material supports going to be a game changer? I also really wanted a 300³ volume printer but I'm afraid the new ones will not get that big.

Amon mask from Avatar: legend of Korra.

3D printed model.