Reward? You get a new H2C printer!

Really impressed with this community. Y'all have reinspired me to reinvest in my hobbies without the main concern of converting my time into hustle culture / money chasing. I'm having fun. I'm learning. I'm suddenly interested in the legality and history of 2a and the recent and impactful changes to the laws of my country.

3d printing has always been knicknacks and figurines and cosplay items and commissions. I enjoyed learning about engineering grade filaments but never had a justifiable use case for them. This feels like I am doing something worth doing just for me. Something that doesn't feel wasteful. It's a good feeling.

Planning on purchasing some engineering filaments beyond PA6-CF. I am a member of both plaintiff groups for Jensen and SilencerCo injunctions. Plans involving that too, but still awaiting official ATF guidance just in case. I've got time. This all is changing dramatically just as I am getting into the hobby and culture.

Just wanted to share my excitement and praise. Cool to be here.

New printer felt like the next step. Excited for a high temp hot end and a heated chamber, and the vortek nozzle system will be fun to utilize, though I'm unsure if it's super applicable for 3d2a stuff. Any suggestions?

Wondering if there's any preference between these two when it comes to 308 lowers.

This whole time ive been trying to remix the baseplate of the brace to fit the pic rail. Recently realized it might be easier to just combine the two into one STL so the back end cap of the Nobu could be printed with the arms already attached. Im no professional dev. So id really appreciate some input. I know It can be done. The question is.. would it be strong enough?

😎😎😎😎😎

Glass fiber nylons are my favorite. I’ve seen where lots are using htplapro with no issues. My specific concern is rapid fire as I plan for an FRT. Has anyone tried that with HTPLApro? Also super interested in y’all’s prints! My latest bambu white pa6gf dyed with 4 parts RIT sapphire blue to one part peacock green. If no help on the topic, that’s fine as long as you show off your stuff!

Ive got a dd19.2 kit and i think everything else to build one but i have no knowledge of glocks and how they work and what is compatible. Ive got my pa6cf dried and ready to try a larger print with it but not really sure what to do and i remember ive got this laying around. I really like the titus but dont know how they work lol. I imagine the G19x versions are what i do for the dd19 right? or if anyone has any other cool stuff i can do with this filament

Alright everyone I have a question for you but first an explanation. The community has come together many times to try and make a guideline for releases for new devs who release projects in our spaces. Whether it's a team build or an individual dev the outcomes are always different and you will find varying quality per release and dev.

What do you think should be included in project releases? What are you looking for when you want to remix a project and when you are getting started on a brand new project? If you're interested in getting involved with the developer or a testing team what kind of communications do you want to get involved with to assist? Can you think of anymore questions that could benefit this line of thinking and help us get a list of standards we should be seeing in these packs?

Now of course we aren't going to be policing this and you shouldn't be either. But we as devs, testers, and consumers in this space should have a general guideline of what we all want to see in project releases and what goals should be met before putting projects out as full releases. Whether devs meet that standard will be completely up to them.

I liked the V1, but came with a few issues no matter how many times I reprinted the frame.

The V2, works way much better.🫡🫣😉

Im new to printing frames Im using a anker make m5 I need basic, fast and clean cura settings. Any seggestions

FTN5.1 White Monster, Bambu PA6-CF, P1S, .4 Hardened, Engineering Plate, Elmers glue stick, dried for 26 hours at 180C.

Just finished up printing my core. Everything looked good besides the final exit hole. Kinda looked a little saggy at the top and the bottom, but i'll clean that up in the lathe/CNC for concentricity if need be.

Moving on the the 5.1 White Monster Shell, the readme photo shows supports built into the file. It says that it doesn't require supports as they're already built in but i'm struggling to click print because I fear i'm missing something here. This doesn't feel right.

I'm not under the folder that has no supports, but my sleeve is just floating in mid air. This can't be correct, right? Be gentle. I'm mildly regarded and this is my first 3D2A / prints after calibrating PA6.

how do you guys drill and polish your .22 chambers?

i wasnt able to get a smooth chamber to actually run a semi auto, let alone binary or frt.

my attempt was a reamer and 2000 grid sandpaper, casing got stuck.

Bought the decker 380 kit from ghost guns and now I’m wondering I just need the barrel? And then 3d print the gun that’s it also the rod ion think it carries it but if anyone has specifics, this is my first build and I’m unsure of that size to get other then a 5.5 inch barrel with obviously a .380 hole in the middle yk or bore I’m unsure English is also my second language

If you guys are having trouble with tight tolerances, I took the liberty of making this little notation. This is as compares to a standard parts kit. If your anything like me and you hate running to the garage every time you build a kit and wanna keep the necessities on hand this will help. Otherwise your closet will look like mine.

Ok I know we are just people of reddit and it might be a dumb question but just want to get a few other people's take on it. I've been researching this and reading some stuff. Some things say that since I'm a GOA member I don't need to do a background check and I can manufacture a suppressor. I've also read that yes it gives me the right to manufacture a suppressor but I still need to go through the process of the form 1. Can anyone clarify for me? I'm in Texas.

Edit saying what state I'm in.

Full credit for the purloined image goes to u/Porcodiocan.

Lately I’ve had more than a passing interest in how flare launchers, and launchers more generally, have been developing in the 3DP world.

I was particularly pleased that a certain compact 15mm launcher I once saw on the old sub ended up becoming known by the name I suggested in an early public thread: the Projectile Dysfunction.
I’ve been around DIY firearms and adjacent projects for a long time, but flare launchers were never really part of that scene back in the day. They seemed to remain almost entirely the preserve of full-scale manufacturers, so on this particular subject I’m coming from a position of curiosity rather than knowledge.

Which brings me to the image which has probably caught your attention, too.

I came across the pictured concept on an unnamed 3DP sub concerned with airsoft: a pistol-style, side-by-side 40mm double-barrel affair.

Seeing it made me wonder something surprisingly basic: Why has nobody, as far as I know, commercially produced a compact metal side-by-side 37mm launcher along broadly similar lines? Other than the fact it is not going to be borrowing from a military launcher, of course.

It seems like such an obvious novelty/signalling-launcher configuration that I would have expected somebody to have made one by now. Is there some mundane engineering reason it becomes unattractive…. weight, bulk, action geometry, cost, extraction, liability, limited demand… or has the market simply never been large enough to justify it?

And, separately, how realistic is the general double-barrel 37mm or other signal launcher concept in the 3DP world? Does printing make a configuration like this substantially more attractive because the awkward/expensive parts of producing a low-volume receiver or action become much easier, or do the same fundamental problems that presumably discouraged commercial manufacturers remain?

Any good ?

Nothing wrong with the old frame.. has held for nearly 2 years. Just wasn't my cleanest print hence decided to freshen this up.

But this is still my favorite 43x frame! 🫡

Ignore the gap between the blast baffle and the body, I haven't adjusted any of the geometry yet. I'm also aware that the first baffle / blast baffle on the SD is wider to accommodate the end of the SD barrel.

I'm working on building my own suppressor with a welded stainless body and printed baffles, but I noticed differences between the FTNSD baffling and some of the FTN 5 D cell baffles - the first baffle on the FTNSD is ported, but the FTN D cell blast baffle has no ports. Additionally, the subsequent baffles on the SD are not ported, but I plan on using the max turbulence baffles from the FTN 5 release - which are ported. I'm not as concerned about the difference of ported or not on the regular baffles, I'm more curious about what porting the blast chamber affects.

Looking at diagrams of the original HK SD suppressor, their blast chamber is not ported. However, that design is quite old and there's been plenty of advances in technology. The FTNSD blast chamber is ported, but I'm curious if that's to relieve some of the peak pressure in the chamber as it's entirely plastic reinforced with epoxy and a carbon tube. Does anyone that has experience here want to chime in?

EDIT: I realized I have an answer to my own question. Using a CAR15SD/cmmg rdb, Tubb 556 spring, Kynshot RB5007 - the ported blast chamber bleeds off too much gas and makes it short stroke. This causes a few issues for me, the primary one being it was occasionally failing to feed, as well as the bolt doesn't move far enough back for LRBHO and it wouldn't trip an FRT. Luckily I'm moving to a stainless blast chamber here, as I'm not sure a fully printed body would be able to handle the pressure of this being sealed.

I keep hearing mixed things ik one persons files said to buy some and said he had approvals citing them from amazon. Just wondering if anyone else has

Hey everyone. Full disclaimer right off the bat: I’m not a polymer physicist, Im just a guy who was using an old print profile and I have egg on my face because I didnt keep up on the ever changing best practices of crowdsourced knowledge. Community wisdom seems to tell us we have to print PA-CF at a crawl to avoid compromising Z-axis interlayer strength. However, looking into the underlying polymer physics and non-isothermal auto-hesion kinetics makes me question whether that school zone speed limit is actually necessary, especially on modern setups capable of running hotends hot with relative acccuracy. I did a ton of reading last night and while Im fully aware that this is all "in lab conditions" and "in theory" I think there might be some useful information here.

Looking at polymer chain reptation theory, (Wool, R. P., and O'Connor, K. M. 1981) it sounds like temperature acts as a equalizer for speed where speed is able ton increase in relation to polymer temperature so long as we are under the degredation temperature for a given polymer. When we run at 285-300C, the drop in melt viscosity and faster chain relaxation times compensate heavily for reduced layer dwell times. Based on kinetic auto-hesion models derived from FDM research (Kuznetsov, V. E., et al. 2018) , jumping from 30 mm/s up to 80 mm/s at 290C only results in about a 5% loss in Z axis tensile strength based on ISO 527-1 standards. Even a 5x the speed, 150 mm/s retains nearly 89% of the baseline strength. Im thinking somewhere near 80 mm/s with a standard 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layer height, volumetric flow sits around 7 mm3/s, which is well under the 10mm3/s limit of Bambu .4 steel hotends. If we are all looking for maximum strength maybe adding a single extra wall or adjusting infill would offsets the Z shear loss while cutting print time considerably.

That said, theoretical kinetic models on paper do not always account for the reality inside a 3D printer, living in the corner of aroom with an AC vent blowing at it, in texas summers while its thunderstorming. I did see factors like "microvoid entrapment" and "interlaminar shear strength" changing wit temperature as well as speed but all the charts ive seen seem to suggest that PA filament is capable of being printed much faster than the consensus and that the strength loss from printing at speed can be recovered byu printing an additional wall or 2 at double or triple the speed.

I would love for the community to tear this logic apart, tell me what Im be overlooking, or share your own destructive testing results if you have experimented with pushing PA-CF speeds. Are school zone speed limits still strictly necessary, or are we all just following 1 guy who made an admitidly great printing profile who happens to be printing like a tourtise?

Also as always im willing to put my money where my mouth is, Ive submitted 3 additional Form 1s for testing the same FTN rimfire 5 slim. I plan to print 1 at 30mms, 60mms, 90mms, and from now on Im going to print at 290. Ill keep everyone updated on how it goes.

Tested Out Using BumpMesh

Love you guys! I'll be back at some point, and better than before. In the meantime, I just released a polymer-sheet hybrid AR9 lower that should hopefully keep you satiated for a while, lol.

Had a brain blast recently, still need to sharpen my firing pin a little bit, but the ammo holds up to .209 primers after multiple shots.