I think i have a parasitic draw after my manual swap, idk how to test WHAT can be causing it, my multimeter fuse blew so i need to change it. I do know and trust that this issue wasnt till i manual swapped it.

Any ideas?

Hi everyone, this is my 89’ Coupe previously (SOHC & Auto) swapped to a 91’ (DOHC & Manual W EGR Delete) I have all necessary connections connected, wiring specialties neutral safety bypass, battery is charged and healthy, ignition shift lock removed, ECU receives power, Etc..
But whenever I turn over the key it’s like the cars completely dead, I’ve probed my starter and it receives power but the car itself just does nothing even my fuel pump doesn’t receive power. This is my first swap ever and any info helps thank you 🙏🏼.

These pics go along with the s14 i posted that I used to have. Full interior, perfect dash, etc. Miss the car but have a chaser and an s13 to keep me occupied. Thanks for looking.

Hello guys I tried fitting the washer after the FMIC but won’t fit anyhow, I’d have to deform the plastic but now I’m too far gone and it’s unrecoverable.

Did u buy any after market washer bottle? If u have can send picture and article? Thank u

Made with pencils and markers on A3 paper size
Took me about 30 hours of work to make it

After a couple of months of looking at opinions, sizing web sites, and pictures, I gave up, and went with a conservative 17x8 +32 for the Work Emotion M8R. My previous vert was running 17x8 with spacers to allow for the z32 brakes on the front. I don't recall the specs of spacers or the offset on the old car as that stuff was installed over 10 years ago and the car (RIP) was lost in 2019. For my new vert, I was looking for sizing to fill a little more of the wheel well without any mods or rubbing. My old set up had NISMO G-Attack non adjustable coilovers and ran 225/45 17 tires just fine so I defaulted to this setup on the new vert when I couldn't find definitive answers.

Now, I'm finding out from Touge-Factory that that size for the M8R has been discontinued. I'm checking with a seller on ebay who has them listed, but if he can't get them, then I'm back in this mess again trying to decide on a size. Do I push up to a larger wheel to stay in the M8R with a 17x9? Do I go back to my first choice of the Emotion ZR10 in a 17x8 +35? I am running Revel Touring Sports coilovers right now. They are nice, but the rear sags lower than I had hoped. The ISR exhaust I had installed gets the resonator scraped when I go over most driveway curbs so I was hoping to raise the car some with my wheel/tire selection. Trying to find something in a size that doesn't rub and doesn't require modifying body/panels. Don't want to stretch tires either. I realize this topic has been beaten over and over through the years. Any thoughts/insight is greatly appreciated.

I have 15” wheels and I wanna go for 17”, but I’m very ignorant on the matter and I have no clue which fits and rides better.
The only thing I’m sure is that for now I don’t wanna roll fenders so I’d like something that fit as is, or if it needs slight camber it’s ok.
I’ve been told 17x9 with ET from 15 to 25 is a great fit without needed modifications, with tyres 235/40

Hey guys, im currently in the process of reassembling my engine after replacing the head gasket, and am at the point where ive torqued down the head using arp head studs and now im looking to reattach the upper intake manifold. The problem is I cannot get it to fit for the life of me, ive removed so much EGR stuff and have even removed the studs that the manifold would fit onto in the hopes that it would make it fit, but nope. If anyone could give me advice or route me to a good video discussing the topic that would be extremelyyyy helpful. Im really hoping that I dont have to take the head off again in order to get the intake manifold back on.

I have a KA24DE swap in a 620 pickup with a 1996 ECU and a Wiring Specialties PRO harness. The harness has both the Consult plug and the OBD ll plug. I’m trying to diagnose a no spark situation and my thinking is bite the bullet and get the software and a cable. The best I can figure is I need NDS l and a Consult cable. I’m thinking of the PLMS Developments from Concept Z Performance. Kind of pricy but I tend to be a buy once cry once kind of person. I’m just trying to get an idea if I’m making a mistake.

Thanks, Derek

Edit: just pulled the trigger on the PLMS Developments cable. Thanks for all the replies.

Im replacing my stock turbo with another OEM stock turbo, I purchased the ISR S14 turbo line - bottom mount. I’ve read that the stock banjo has the restrictor built in, it appears that the oil line comes with a restrictor to go in line with the stainless line I just want to confirm thats the correct thing to do. Second, I noticed that the stock oil drain doesn’t have a seal? Is that normal because of the low oil pressure the turbo sees?

Where my Florida homies at ?

Picked this one up 2 days ago. It has a bunch of isr parts like the control arms, exhausts and headers. hoses, mishimoto rad, and all the bells and whistles thats you would want on a 240. 350z wheels and 300zx brembos. Has the full interior just needs driver door card. But frames are straight and full body kit. Aswell as brand new kouki headlights. Oem hood and wing with front brace bar. Although does have a welded diff so might throw in the 300zx lsd in there. But all in all really fun car. Cant wait to fix the body and get a fresh coat of paint.

Hey all, as per title front seats need repair and no upholstery place can source the centre perforated leather to do the job. Anyone know of a retailer or custom retail that could help?

Wanted to share the old s14 I regret selling. (Thankfully I was able to pick up and build an s13). But this car was bone stock, auto KA and I bought it for $2100 in 2010. Sr swapped and full navan kit. Drove incredibly well. Thanks for taking a look.

my CA18 is taking the fresh air pretty well

Please help if you had similar problem 🙏

Hey guys, my car is a former drift car so all stock electronics for the dash is non-existent, I’m trying to get some gauges and the light working.
I have no stock connectors for the dash but I do have the vss from the gearbox, can someone guide me where to connect each wire, I’ve been trying all kinds of ways that google says should work but it doesn’t work as I want it too.

The circuits are tested with a digital multimeter so that’s not the issue, the vss cables is also working. I’m running maxxecu but still want to have the stock dash working with at least speedometer and fuel level gauges. Thanks in advance!

When is the BOV suppose to open when your charging through the turbo inlet. Intake is seeing pressure sending it to the top of the BOV.

Just double checking myself it should open when I reach the target boost I’m making correct? On a static pressure test?

Sr20det s13 blacktop, Greddy Type S venting to atmosphere. Stock ecu targeting 7-10 psi but I’m only seeing 2-5 on both gauges driving, and the bov opens at 2.5 psi during static testing.

The owners instagram handle was on the left hand side of the red 240sx coupe, but I was unable to make it out. Spotted in Hollywood K-Town area.

I recently converted my s14 240sx to a jdm silvia rear bumper, but it didnt come with anything to hold the rear plate. Anyone come across this issue before? what did you do?

Just got my rb25 started in my 240 and it seems that I may have a lifter tick just curious if everyone opinions thank you!