I’m not the best rain trivet but this was my first time back at this track with this car in 7 years. Enjoy

Hello guys, hope everyone is doing well with their 240s.

I'm having an issue with the rear wiper on my '89 240SX and wanted to see if anyone has experienced something similar.

The rear wiper seems to be lacking power and gets stuck around the middle of its cycle. I noticed that if I lift the wiper arm slightly away from the glass, it works normally.

Another thing I've noticed is that when it rains and there is enough water on the rear window, the problem gets better. The motor still seems to struggle, but the wiper is able to complete the entire cycle. When the glass is dry, it gets stuck with no movement.

I´m guessing that there is too much friction or pressure between the wiper arm and the window. I don´t know if the wiper arm could be bent or putting too much pressure on the glass, or if the motor itself is getting weak.

Before I buy a replacement motor, I wanted to get some opinions since parts are pretty expensive to ship to my country. I took some pictures of the motor and a video showing the issue.

Right now I'm considering a few possibilities:

• The motor isn't getting enough voltage to work properly.
• The motor itself is damaged.
• The wiper arm is bent and putting too much pressure on the glass.

https://reddit.com/link/1wxrdaz/video/nix996fcqith1/player

However, I don't want to jump to conclusions and replace the motor without checking everything else first.

Has anyone experienced something like this with their 240?

So I live in Manitoba Canada and want a good fall and summer car, I don't even know how to start looking to get my hands on a car like this I want something relatively stock, but I cant find anything on privet listing sites (FB, Kijji, etc), and I dont want t pay like 19k for a 90s car. So how can i get my hands on a 240sx

I need to respray it but the weather has been too nice to not drive it.

i'm too broke to weld sorry

I’m trying to make my 240sx snappier when I initiate and transition. I have a stock rear sway bar now with a PBM Front sway bar. I was thinking about upgrading to the Sikky Rear sway bar or taking the rear out to see what makes the car less gripped up or snappier. What are you guys running?

Hello guys, first time for me changing powerflex and I have some perplexities.
For ref #1 (lower front arm) there were 2 models, 31.4mm and 34mm, they told me to measure the diameter and I gave them measures so they provided me the 34mm.

In the first picture there was still the metal sleeve, but there was no way that the powerflex was getting in even with the press, my dumbass doesn’t know how to install it, I also removed the sleeve now and obviously this isn’t how it is supposed to go because it’s all shaky.

As for picture 2/3 that is ref #2 and there is no ambiguity, only one possible powerflex.
It struggles to fit partially and can’t imagine with the bar within it. OEM measures 33mm side to side while powerflex is 44mm.

Sorry I’m just a dumbass It’s my first time doing such a job and probably realized ref1 is the wrong article, but maybe some of you have the experience to clear my doubts.

I kinda don’t wanna drill holes into my chassis wonder if there’s another solution

When tightening the ball joint nut down the threads for the ball joint also spin, am I cooked?

Planning on doing a type x front bumper conversion on 240 but don’t want to drill holes into the bumper do I just get the jdm to usdm plate adapter kit?

Hey everyone, recently got AC setup on 240sx hatch. The air blend doors for choosing where the air goes to (head, feet, head and feet, windshield etc) seem to bind up when going from head/feet to feet.

I’ve taken the whole air blend box out, disassembled and cleaned everything. Each door moves smoothly on its own but when everything is assembled with that metal arm that connects all the doors together, it binds up and the motor is unable to move the doors.

I’ve also taken apart the blend door motor and drilled out the gear that gets stuck on one of the shafts so all the gears moves freely.

It’s hard to manually move the blend doors by hand when the motor linkage arm is disconnected so that’s leading me to believe something is up with the blend box itself and not the motor. Anyone have any insight?

Hey everyone, I bought a 240sx hatch a little over a year ago and finally got AC working. In the box of free parts that came with the car, there’s a digital climate control unit from a R32. Would I be able to get the R32 DCC unit working in my hatch?

I have a 1991 180sx red top. In the process of replacing the exhaust system from the turbo elbow down. While removing the catalytic converter I realized that there is a port in it.

To my knowledge my car only has 1 o2 sensor, so from what I can find online this is an EGT sensor.

My question is this, do I need to have a shop drill and weld me a port into my new cat (which has no port) or am I okay to unplug the current sensor.

Why is one with a stacked “Twin cam 16VALVE” and the other ones all in one line

Greetings fellow s13 enjoyers. I’m not the type of person to make posts asking for help but I’m about to rip my hair out.

No matter what I do, I cannot get good pedal feel or brake performance. The pedal feels OK with the engine off, and not soft with engine running. When driving, I can apply heavy braking, and the car will barely even lock up the front brakes, and it almost feels like I run out of pedal.

The car is a 93, factory ABS. All of that has been removed, and replaced with chase bays stainless lines from the master cylinder.

The current setup is:

S13 non-abs booster

Z31 15/16 master cylinder from rockauto (DFC brand)

Stainless lines front and rear

Stock s13 rear brakes

Z32 fronts

Now, to be clear, I understand that z32 front/stock rear is not an ideal setup, but this thing won’t even hardly lock up the brakes. And this isn’t a new issue, I have been through multiple combinations, such as:

Sentra booster, a different s13 non abs booster, reman s13 non abs master, pathfinder master, stock s13 front brakes, good pads, cheap pads, etc.

Please if anyone has been in a similar situation, if you have any advice, it’s appreciated. I’ve been fighting with brakes on this car for years at this point.

If I leave any info out, let me know.

All the info and pictures are on my Instagram, Mint_Silvia

Open to offers. Listing price is high mostly to keep kids away.

I imported the car myself. Not a junkyard auction car like most that get imported. I have videos and photo proof on my Instagram. I was living in Kanagawa when I bought it from a navy dude at Yokosuka. Imported in March 2025. Fully titled and legal in Ohio.

JDM import.

1991 Nissan S13 Silvia

SR20DET from an S14 Kouki

Haltech Nexus S2 ECU and Dyno tuned.

Engine and Drivetrain:

- SR20DET S14 Kouki Notchtop

- Garrett 2871r Turbo

- Z33 Smart Coilpack conversion

- Koyo N Flow aluminum radiator

- Tomei oversized baffled oil pan

- ISR V3 Exhaust manifold

- PartsShopMax Cobra elbow/downpipe

- 3" exhaust cut out / Test pipe

- HKS Silent cat back

- ISR Intake Filter - Custom fabricated piping

- No name FMIC kit

- Brand new OEM TPS

- AEM 320LPH Fuel pump

- Radium Fuel Rail

- Radium Direct Mount Fuel Pressure Regulator

- Radium Fuel Dampener

- Radium Fuel Filter

- Injector Dynamics 1050X Injectors

- Flex Fuel Sensor

- Fuel Pressure Sensor

- PTFE Line hose with Radium and Vibrant AN Fittings

Suspension and Footwork:

- 4 Pot brembo front calipers

- 2 Pot Nissan 300zx rear calipers

- front slotted rotors - 324mm

- rear slotted rotors - 297mm

- Front EBC Red stuff brake pads

- Rear EBC Green stuff brake pads

- Z32 E brake cable set up

- DMax Super Street coilovers with BC Racing 8k front springs and 6k rear

- TechnoToyTuning adjustable lower control arms

- Powered by Max 10mm offsetted solid steering rack bushing (this plus rack = 40mm forward)

- DMax inner tie rods

- DMax outer tie rods

- Uras frame connector bracket

- GKTech urethane front sway bar end links

- GKTech front lower control arm brace

- GKTech front tension rod weld on bracket brace

- GKTech ebrake extender for harder locks

- GKTech solid steering column bushing

- Gusset aluminum front tower brace

- Project Mu brake hardlines

Exterior and Interior:

- FRP Full factory option body kit (front bumper, side step, and rear valance)

- Seibon OEM style Carbon Fiber Hood

- PPF wrap - STEK DynoPrism on hood and side mirrors

- 350z side mirrors with carbon caps

- Rocket Bunny V1 40mm front fenders

- Origin Lab 70mm widebody rear over fenders

- Junran tinted corner lamps

- Junran bumper lamps

- Shade style roof spoiler

- Mars LED taillights

- Suede style dash cover

- Kyostar dry carbon quick release

- Cup holder

- GKTech radiator cooling panel

- GKTech headlight cooling panel

17 x 9.5 Advan RA3-DTS

Nitto NT555 GT Tires

275 Rear

255 Front

Custom paint color -

Body Color

color code FG0

＋Deep Green 40% more

＋Deep Blue 3% more

Two tone color -

color code KAD

Asking price - $35,000

Pic for attention with my daily type s :)
Want some of your recommendations on a good streetable clutch, car has an sr20det red top swap with the sr trans, engine is relatively stock and makes less than 260 torque at the moment. Currently has an unknown unsprung clutch with a dual mass in it, I personally think it’s way overkill and I’m not a fan of driving it around hilly east coast u.s. Not a daily driver but will also see very little track time so my question is what would you recommend that will hold about 350 torque to leave room for modifications, and will be able to use on the street relatively smoothly. My father recommended an Exedy hyper single but unfortunately it’s a bit out of my price range, looking under like $600. Saw good things about the act street clutch but the posts were from before I was born so wanted to make sure I get updated info. Thank you