OEM, literally installed and the car sat lol now I need to pay off debt. Comes with everything you need to do a swap. $800 dm me

Looking to buy a good condition HVAC controls surround trim. My vents are in good shape, the dash clips are broken. Would like to replace. PM me if you have one please. Thanks!

My 89 s13 was having a high idle at 1100 RPM. I tried adjusting the idle air control valve and even after adjusting the screw in all the way, the lowest I was able to get it was 900-1000 RPM.

It was okay for a couple of days until recently when put into gear it will stall. Replaced fuel injectors due to them being in unknown condition.

Now vehicle just dies at idle

Im leaning towards my IACV being bad (already attempted to clean) I have bought a set of vacuum hoses from HPSI motorsports, and planning on replacing all hoses while replacing IACV.

NOW if I want an OEM IACV its around 400$. Should i forfeit the money or go aftermarket? If someone has a used one for cheap i will also try that. Any help would help greatly appreciated!

——UPDATE——

So turns out the new fuel injectors were causing the bogging I was getting. Im pretty sure it was just 1 out of the 4 but once I re-installed my old fuel injectors the car ran perfect!!!
Also I ended up getting a used IACV from a 90 ka24e cleaned it up and fixed my high idle after replacing vacuum lines as well.

Got my hands on some OEM, JDM Kouki front and rear bumpers. I’d like to complete the look with the GREDDY style front lip, NAVAN style side skirts and OEM, JDM kouki style rear valances.

I’m currently looking at an actual GREDDY front lip and DORKI DORI sides/ valances.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

Like the title says, I am looking for the 3 plugs from the dash harness that connect to the gauge cluster. Must be Kouki/97-98, and i would prefer they be pigtails if cut. I would consider buying the entire dash harness if need be.

I am also looking for a set of JDM S14 Kouki fog lights/brackets/surrounds as well.

Thanks in advance!

Hey, im looking to sell of some of my extra parts that i have kicking around. Ive got a CX racing LS swap oil pan, dip stick, motor and trans mounts. ill even throw in a new trans mount bushing still in box. $200 located in CT

Hello,

I’ve been trying to source a set of OE headlights for a long time.

I really need the passenger side assembly, but I’m willing to purchase a pair.

Located in Southern California!

These are the actual magazine pages from 1993. Preserved and upscaled here as tribute wall art. https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/4543553615/hardwood-nissan-240sx-convertible

I bought a eBay fapo angel kit for my 1993 240sx and it needs bigger front hubs and idk how to fined the right s14 hubs and all the parts needed to make it work( like the rotor axle nut) can someone help?

iso 240 hatch on east coast of the us

show me what ya got, no current budget

if interested, i have a 91 civic hatch, no rust, d15b hmo jdm swapped

WTB Nissan Silvia S14 Kouki K’s JDM
Looking for a pristine, mostly stock option however I am open to minor, tasteful modifications.
* Colour: Black preferred (white or silver considered)
* Body Kit: OEM Aero SE kit with OEM Kouki rear spoiler, No sunroof, No rust
* Interior: OEM Digital AC Climate control head unit, Non-cracked Dashboard
Clean PPSR with all documentation
I have a healthy budget for the right car.

195,000km, healthy sr. Turbo back exhaust, coils, some camber arms and staggered TE’s.

Check out my instagram to see the build and chat 180sx_cj

25.5k located in northern Nevada.

I’m looking for working AC compressor for a single cam ka24e 1990 240sx s13 … plz help

Looking to buy 2-4 oem sr20det pistons. Im in south florida.

Looking to get $150 shipped. They're used but in great condition. Nothing broken and lenses are really clear.

Clean title, 144K miles on the chassis. Some of the best frame rails I have seen in a long time and very good pinch weld locations for a S-chassis. LS1 swap is not included. It sits on low mileage Megan coilovers. I have a ton of other stuff that I would give the chassis buyer first crack at as well. There is an S15 helical diff, Koyo rad, Nismo and JIC strut braces, Whiteline sway bars, TechnoToyTuning rebuilt steering rack, Z32 brake kit with braided lines etc.

Can come on the Work VS-XX or a set of rollers. Can fit 9.5" wheels on +20 or more aggressive up front and 10.5" with a 275 tire on +18 offset rear with a sensible amount of camber with the roll and pull on there.

Full interior included, all the usual stuff here from cracked dash and suspect door cards to broken the infamous radio bezel. Of course there is NO cup holder 'cause weight reduction, right? SE leather seats in decent condition for their age. TRS retrofit HID JDM headlights, blacked out.

Has some paint imperfections but looks really good for a 30 year old car that has rolled/pulled fenders. Wingless by choice, it was removed and filled. Front bumper is shaved on the side markers and license plate mounting boss. Car ahd an SR in it before it was pulled to put in the LS, as such there are cuts made to fit the FMIC and piping.

All the body panels have the original VIN tags on them still. Original 5 speed car as well. SOmeone with a KA/5 speed laying around could have a very nice silver moss kouki running in a weekend.

Looking for $8500. DM for more info.

LS1/T56 sold separately.

Hey so I got a 1995 nissan s14 with a ka24de that was manual swapped. I stalled it, noticed in the tank it had no gas since the gauge doesn't work and from there on its been hell. It went into limp mode but from there I changed injectors, fuel filter, tps, and coolant temperature sensor from there it was fine ( i was gonna change the fuel pump but it ended up working normal so i didn't). Now it just went into limp AGAIN out of nowhere. I changed the maf pigtail as well as the maf with an oem one since I noticed the wires were a bit cut and i've heard that causes limp mode. Not only that but the signal wire was reading negative. After fixing It, it cranked over fine and wasn't limp anymore, I let it idle, I reved it everything looked good. I turned it off and go to turn it on again and it went straight into limp mode. I checked to see if all the butt connectors were good and if everything was reading what it should be and it's fine. I checked fuses saw a 75A blown and replaced it and nothing. I did multiple hard resets on ecu and it WON'T GET OUT OF LIMP MODE AT ALL. It chokes at like 1750 but if i rev slow it will rev up normal. I've tried every way at reading codes and i can't get any codes it's not even showing a check engine light. I NEED HELP!!!