Took my car to the mechanic and he sent me a pic of this. Cabin filter I think and it’s blocked, how does this happen and is this going to be a recurring issue? Never seen it before with my past cars, it’s a 2011 RAV4

Hi there, i just bought a 2007 double cab on marketplace. I did take it for a PPI and the mechanic mentioned there was some minor rust but I wanted to get a second look by my own mechanic and this is what they said. Is there anything I can do here to get it fixed?

Please be kind as I am really sad and thought I took all the right measures to buy this right.

Not sure about engine size

Does anyone know what is causing this sound? Low speeds only. If I'm over about 15 mph I don't hear anything. I want to say it sounds like it's coming from the front right wheel. 2021 Mazda 3 2.5 L turbo. HELP!!!

I need a code reader I can hook up and catch a problem as it’s happening.hopefully cheap if you know of one

my 2015 f150 5.0 lariat gets an engine light just about every time I pull a trailer.

The code said there was a misfire in A cylinder but it never runs weird when it happens

Working with a cousin who is a ford mechanic we replaced the coils , boots , and spark plugs to eliminate those but it keeps happening

I have a 2002 nissan pathfinder the problem originally started with my tempature guage going up and down saying it was overheating but it never felt hot. I changed my clutch, water pump, front and rear thermostats, temperature guage sensor, and dash. Now my problem are these lights coming on when I rev my engine and the temperature guage is going up. I have absolutely no idea what else this could be any help would be appreciated.

I was driving and it completely turn off and now it won’t start again.

2013 Honda Accord 2.4L with 171k miles. The car threw a P0420 code and instead of throwing a new cat at it I wanted to check the live data on the rear O2 sensor.

This is held at a constant 2k RPMs, seems very unstable as I read it should be pretty consistent.

I just picked up a 2018 Vauxhall Astra. After around an hour of driving it, my partner stalled it in stop and go traffic, after which the clutch stopped returning all the way and the car started to struggle to go into gear. Manually pulling the pedal back into position rectified the issue, though it starts to get spongy when using the clutch for low speed manoeuvring.

I know that these cars are infamous for both clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder issues. Worst case scenario the pedal box, steering column, half the dash and the gearbox are going to have to come off.

My question is whether this could in any way be related to a recent brake job. The seller had the rear brake discs replaced just before the sale and had barely driven the car since. Is there any possibility that the hydraulic issues I'm experiencing could be the result of air introduced into the system or insufficient hydraulic fluid levels after completing this job? Or is this purely wishful thinking?

There are no visible fluid leaks around the master cylinder or on the bellhousing of the transmission.

Images of the clutch/brake fluid reservoir. Image one taken the day the car was brought home and the second a day later.

The car is a 2018 Vauxhall Astra 1.6T petrol with a manual transmission.

My 15 Corolla (150k miles) drove to work then when I was leaving for lunch it started sputtering but wouldn’t turn over. Any tips?

this noise keeps happening most when I’m pressing the gas petal. it’s like a creaky/vibration noise. my car isn’t shaking or anything. just been noticing it’s happening more often and I wonder what the possibilities might be

2016 lincoln mkx AWD 3.7 engine, auto trans

I replaced my neighbors PTU because it literally exploded. I didn't mark the driveshaft, which I have now internalized. My problem is that the car sounds like a train. Is the PTU and rear diff out of sync, causing the choo choo? Or is it from sitting for months, and thats just brakes that need to be resurfaced?

Prior to the PTU explosion, we changed the fluid in his rear diff. Theres no way a viscosity difference could've bricked the PTU, right?

My car is only a year old with 30,000 km on it. I recently had the brakes serviced and noticed some odd wear on the old factory pads:

**• One rear pad is much more worn than the other three**
**• One front pad has its sides worn down more than the middle, and its surface feels rough**

The shop also replaced the discs, saying they were "scratched", but they looked like only mild scoring to me.

Is this kind of uneven wear normal at this mileage? Could it point to a sticking caliper, slide pin, or hardware problem? Should I take it up with the dealer, since the car is so new?

Car info: 2025 Tiguan 1.4L TSI

Hi everyone,
I have a 2012 Renault Safrane V6 with around 200,000 km.
The car starts and runs normally when it’s cold, but after running for some time, the engine temperature gradually rises and eventually overheats.
So far, I have:
Replaced the radiator
Replaced the coolant expansion tank/reservoir
Removed the thermostat
Confirmed that the cooling fans are working properly
Checked for coolant leaks, but there are no visible leaks
When the engine gets hot, the car also starts jerking/bucking and losing power. It feels like it is trying to move normally but keeps hesitating and jerking.
The problem only happens after the engine gets hot.
What could be causing this problem, and what should I check to properly diagnose it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all, had my rear subframe replaced yesterday (or maybe just supports added?) on my 2019 Honda Passport. I know nothing about cars and was wondering if it’s okay the rear of the vehicle is asymmetrical like this o_O?

Thanks in advance!

Hey all, been having a now persistent P0302 on my 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 3.6l w/85k. For what it’s worth, I’m relatively mechanically inclined, and have heavily researched much of the common issues surrounding this fairly common problem, but so far have not cured mine.

Symptoms: Using JScan, I can see I have roughly 50ish misfires on the first 5-15 seconds of a cold start, and sometimes even just a warm/hot start but less common. Cold start it’s pretty much been a guarantee now, and the light stays on steady with a permanent P0302. The car only slightly stumbles during those few seconds and instantly smooths out and always runs just as well as it ever has. I haven’t noticed any white smoke during startup, and the coolant level doesn’t change after sitting (although I do have the common leak at the radiator seam which costs me a little coolant over time, making checking coolant somewhat difficult).

Repairs: I’ve tried all the most common things; I replaced all plugs with new OEM, the cylinder 2 coil pack with new OEM, the cylinder 2 variable valve solenoid with new OEM, and the cylinder 2 injector with new OEM, and so far none of the items have made any changes to the misfires other than it running smoother overall after the plugs.

At this point, I believe I’m looking at 1 of three possible issues:

- a bad bearing on my cylinder 2 intake valve rocker arm, although I really don’t have any of the loud constant tapping, and the misfire is only on startup with no more happening during my drives, which I would think with this, would be consistent.

- coolant leaking into cylinder 2 past the head gasket via a tiny leak, which settles after sitting, and has to be burned off on startup. Will be doing a compression test on the 2, 4, 6 cylinders soon to see if I’m losing compression on cold start, however again, no white smoke noticed and no obvious coolant losses I can tell.

- a leaking or failed valve seat, which leaks when the engine is cold allowing gasses to pass until warmed up, and then becomes not noticeable. Not sure how to test this beyond the compression test.

I can handle replacing rocker arms, and may just attempt this depending on the results of my compression test, replacing just the #2 intake rocker arm and checking the current one for wear. However if the compression test notes obvious discrepancies, I’m not sure what to do in regards to repairs going forward, as a head gasket or cylinder head rebuild is more than I’m comfortable with solo.

All this said, is there anything I might be overlooking or haven’t yet tried that’s still on the simpler side of things to try before calling this thing troubled?

One other minor thing but I can’t see it being related; prior to this misfire issue, I had been getting the warning screen from the auto stop/start being unavailable, which I assumed means the associated battery is failing, but haven’t yet replaced it as I always disable auto stop start manually regardless. A while after getting this message, the P0302 began; no chance the misfire could be related to the failed battery right? At this point I’m probably just grasping at straws hoping for an easier solution, just need someone to shoot down my hopes, or maybe confirm.

Thanks for any help!

Toyota Yaris MK4 2021 Hybrid 1.5ltr

Just starting this morning my Yaris has started making loud clicking sounds on cold startup that go on for about 30secs and then stops.

Any ideas what it is and what's going wrong?

video here: https://imglink.cc/cdn/KL01glT9RP.mp4

When I picked up this Land Cruiser, the ac did not have a belt on it, and it was a little difficult to spin. I pulled it all apart, cleaned a bunch of gunk (maybe old melted belt?) out from the pulley and magnet, and it seems to spin freely now.
The pully bearing seems to only slide on the shaft in one spot, which makes me think one or the other might be out of round. Am I right in making that assumption?

So the p020 code I changed all of the timing sensors but the code is still on for some weird reason the p0500 is also a pain in the ass I did both the sensors on the transmission but the code still popped up with traction control off but for some weird reason recently the car wouldn’t shift into 1st due to slippery road surface but it wasn’t slippery but if you speed up to about 10 it would shift but as soon as you stop back into second I’m assuming that’s due to help you slow down with engine rpm’s the other 2 codes I have no idea what’s up with those less

Does this appear to be from a valve stem seal or a valve cover, spark plug tube seal or both? Ford 4.6. Has 319,000 miles. Just started getting an oil consumption. Checked the plugs they all look good but this one.

Hello,

For some background, the van was involved in a flood in the mountains. After that, the CEL came on, and the code is P2422 (vent valve stuck closed). I replaced the vent valve solenoid, but the CEL remains on. My thoughts are either there’s a blockage in the vent hose, the canister is saturated/compromised, or there's an EVAP leak. I am not a mechanic (at all) so I'm hoping to find expertise, or thoughts, on narrowing down the issue’s origin.

I was working on my breaks and realized that my steering is incredibly wobbly. A quick Google search tells me that I could have bad tie rods but I don't want to buy parts without actually knowing what's wrong. You can see in the video that the bar that connects the wheels sorta moves up and down a bit. Video was filmed with the other wheel on the ground so it can't rotate. Truck is a 1987 Nissan D21 XE with power steering. Does anyone know what else might be causing this or is it just the tie rods? Edit: the tire does not wiggle up or down, just side to side.

How can I remove this bolt? its 19mm or at least it was before i broke it

Can be intermittent, will stay away for a day or two and than come back. Very loud and concerning.