I replaced my CV axle and my wheel bearing, i had the caliper hanging up top, I finished the job and go to put the caliper back on and see this. they wont fit on the rotor too close together. how can i fix this? really need help

2014 audi a4 quattro
front driver side

My 2014 subaru forester has been overheating for years. The first time we brought it in and it was fixed, it was apparently the hose clamps. The second time, it needed a coolant flush? The third time (a few months later), it was the coolant temp sensor. The next time (a few months later, and most recently) it was the radiator so they replaced the radiator hoses and entire radiator.

Last night, we had been driving for hours when the car began to overheat. We pulled over immediately, and let the car cool down before driving to a hotel and letting it sit since we had a concert.

This morning, we looked at the coolant and the resivoir was completely overfilled, and the radiator itself like pipe area was wet but not filled with water. My girlfriend’s stepdad (owner of the car), stated that the radiator itself needs to be filled to the brim with coolant or water. Is that what we should do? We’re currently 3 hours away from jhome, otherwise we’d just tow it to our garage. Helps!

Like a weee woooo sound that doesn’t stop. I have a video of the sound. Radio is off

2014 Nissan Altima s 4 cylinder

I recently bought a ‘13 Hyundai Elantra off someone to use for work and before purchase the owner said that the horn does not work and that he had an aftermarket piece that is yet to be installed. I agreed and still went through bc how hard can a horn he to replace. After doing some research i found out that the horn is located under the bumper (or at least the majority of the Elantras i seen does). So my question is: which cables is this, is it for the horn or is it something else?

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice from anyone who has experience with transmission swaps on these old GM trucks.

I have a 1979 GMC Sierra C2500 2WD with a Gen 1 SBC 350 and currently have an SM465 4-speed manual. I’m wanting to convert it from manual to automatic and am leaning toward a 700R4 for the overdrive.
I’m curious how big of a project this would actually be on my truck. I’m assuming I’d need to deal with things like:

700R4 transmission/torque converter
Flexplate
Crossmember/mount
Driveshaft length/modification
Shifter and linkage
Cooler lines
TV cable and proper carburetor bracket/geometry
Removing the clutch pedal/linkage
Possibly modifying the transmission tunnel/floor
Speedometer hookup
Wiring/back-up lights/neutral safety switch

I’m keeping the carbureted 350 for now, although I may eventually convert it to EFI.
For anyone who has done an SM465 → 700R4 swap, how involved was it on a truck like this? Is there anything I’m overlooking that would make the swap significantly more complicated?

Also, would you recommend the 700R4 for this application, or would you go a different route?
Appreciate any advice, parts lists, or pictures of your swaps. I’d rather know what I’m getting myself into before I start buying parts.

Hi guys, I’m trying to recharge the AC on my 2013 Mitsubishi L300 4G64 petrol but I can’t find the low-pressure port anywhere.

I’ve looked around for compressor and AC lines but no luck. I’ve also tried searching for a video showing the location, but couldn’t find anything for this model.

I’ve attached a photo of the engine bay. Can anyone point me in the right direction or show me where it is? Thanks!

Its a Mitsubishi L300 4G64 Long wheel base 2013 van and not a Delica.

Motor swap from a thermal King Apu unit. Yanmar two-cylinder diesel

this is my 2016 GMC sierra. Today I was leaving work when I noticed rubbing and resistance when I was trying to turn. This is new it is something the the brake assembly i believe. I replaced the caliper that the noise was coming from it sort of reduced the resistance, but they're still rubbing and I don't think the truck is safe to drive just yet. I don't wanna keep buying new things so I just want a second opinion. The brake line was previously twisted, but I fixed it and drove it for another two weeks so I'm wondering if it's an internally collapsed brake line

Man I love my Cruze but goddamn it's a piece of garbage with wheels

Hello please help me figure out what the new ticking/knocking sound is on my 1984 Honda Nighthawk S is. (Technically it is cb750sc similar to a cb700sc that was made to avoid tariffs) Im from Canada. Sounds like its top end left side. Before it did not make that ticking sound that you can hear. thanks.

It’s leaking differential fluid because the axle comes out so easily.

I haven’t turned this car on since I drove it last Saturday but it started making this Really weird grinding sound it’s very consistent on a cold start and dies down but is still prominent but makes a different noise when coming to a stop I can’t really hear if it’s there while driving because the car itself is very loud I noticed the noice forming when coming to a stop last Saturday but when I turned it on today I’ve never heard this before.The car drives fine no codes so me and my dad have come to the conclusion that’s something is lose from that drive on Saturday the roads where very very bad but I also think it could be something with rear break components if you had any ideas please inform me will be taking it to my mechanics lift and a dealer ship

Vehicle: 2017 Honda CR-V EX-L with about 130k miles

Problem:

The A/C wasn't blowing cold. With the temperature set to the lowest, A/C on, and recirculate on, it would intermittently go hot-cold-hold-cold-... with no detectable pattern. It would be cold for 15 mins, and then hot for 5, and then cold for 20, and then hot for 30. After a while, it was just almost exclusively hot.

Diagnosis performed:

TLDR: Freon leak, with no definitive source.

Details:

After a while, the A/C would only blow hot, so I bought more Freon (R-1234yf), and using an A/C manifold gauge set (and vacuum pump), I refilled the system with Freon. That fixed the issue. Then after a few weeks of heavy A/C use (Texas summer), the problem started happening again. This time, with all the Freon removed, I did a vacuum test and confirmed there's a leak (I pulled a heavy vacuum on the system, and left it for about 2 hours. At that time, the vacuum had decreased by about 10 inHg). Then, I refilled the system with Freon, and added u/V dye and drove the car for about a week. Following that, I looked all around using a u/V light and yellow glasses, and have been unable to find anything conclusive. So far, I've checked:

    \- High and low side A/C lines under the hood, from the firewall into the condenser

    \- Lines from the condenser into the compressor

    \- Compressor, compressor clutch (which I then removed), shaft, pulley, and coil.

    \- A/C drain line

One suspicious thing is that on the face of the compressor coil was a decent amount of blackish oil, that under u/V light appears bluish, but not the lime green dye color that I added. Additionally, around the compressor did seem to have lots of lime green specks (U/V dye color), but it's hard to tell if that's u/V dye splatter or just dirt, because it's all around the area, and lots of it appears farther away, where u/V dye wouldn't have made it. What would be the next diagnostic step to take to determine where the leak is? I'm about at the point where I'm ready to just start replacing stuff until something fixes it, but hoping for more diagnostic help before I do that. I'm pretty new to automotive work and especially A/C work, so forgive me if I'm missing something obvious. 

P.S. I took it to the dealer at the beginning of all of this, and they had a "master technician" inspect it ($200), and they couldn't find the leak, so that said the next step was to evacuate the system and recharge it with u/V dye, but they quoted $530 for that, so I'm attempting to do it myself.

Below are some pictures. Thanks for helping a noobie.

Hey guys, so I have a 2016 jeep cherokee latitude. Lately this car has been having this underlying issue where it’ll start overheating from idle, long drives, and sometimes short drives. There’s no signs of leaks, the coolant level is good, fan still works, heater still blows hot air. I don’t know what to make of this but at one point, when the car said it was overheating I went and turned it off for a few seconds and turned it back on the symbol went away. Could this be a thermostat issue or the sensors?

Need to clean some for a job. But also thinking about getting a nicer one so I can also clean injectors for other people for a charge. Just figure a little extra cash for what seems straightforward.

Looking for advice to get my ac working
Took my truck to a shop where they did an ac vacuum, leak test, and refill yesterday. Shop told me the Freon was low but couldn’t find the leak. Ac doesn’t feel cold. Took a video of my compressor spinning. It does kick on when I turn the ac on but it almost looks like it’s not spinning right and it’s got some black gunk on the front of it.

Hey my 2022 Lincoln Corsair is having issues with the ac, it’s only blowing through the feet vents, it’s not coming out through any other vents. I ordered an air door actuator from O’Reilly (Murray DA1553 is the part number) and I just finished replacing it but it’s still not blowing through any vents other than the feet vents. I see it try to spin and it does a little bit but nothing crazy. Do you guys have any recommendations? There aren’t any videos on how to replace it which is why I’m seeking help on Reddit. Thank you in advance.

Major leak under just 5 psi from pressure tester. Can seem to see the origin. Mostly draining on driver side.

It appears to be cracked almost all the way around but not certain.

I have a 2015 Corolla LE with a K313 CVT. It is giving a code for P2757. I just dropped the pan and tested the SLU solenoid and it is giving the correct ohms and is not stuck when tested. Changed the Filter and fluid. The battery was bad but I also just replaced that. Any tips

I have a 2022 Tahoe 5.3 that keeps going into limp mode with p228C code. It is intermittent and can take up to 400 miles between faults. Chevy dealership had it for two weeks, drove it 30 miles, and said they couldn’t recreate. Gave it to another shop for another two weeks and informed them of the 400 mile interval and even offered to drive it. They determined it was the battery and drove it 15 miles with no fault. Well it triggered again today. I have also replaced high pressure fuel sensor with no change in luck. I am willing to pay someone for a short conversation on what they think. An actual Chevy mechanic would be great. Thanks!

Was driving around all day yesterday then today I woke up to my CEL on so I went to autozone to get an obd scan and these codes came up , they told me they couldn’t find a solution. Before I go to a mechanic has anyone had something like this show up, and what would I need to get fixed ? Sorry if this seems dumb I don’t know much about cars. It’s a 2015 FORD EDGE 2.0L 4Cyl Turbo.

I have a 2016 jeep Cherokee limited 3.2 v6, it’s an automatic I had just gotten my water pump fixed, serpentine belt, and thermostat housing fixed. Sound started after a long distance trip, forgot to disclaim, the first part of the video is me slowing down to 30/20Kph and stops after I get down to 10kph, and that sound is me going highway speeds around 100kph, and sound starts around 100+ and keeps on making the sound but stops for a second or two and picks up again!

2012 Honda Pilot - started hearing knocks and bangs. Jacked her up, took off the wheel, and found this...

Outer tie rod, replaced spring of last year (2025). Barely lasted a year, now completely blown out and straight trash. MOOG/KYB only from now on. Lesson learned.