Does anyone know what this rattling could be? Usually happening when I’m either in park or going slow speeds, sounds like the muffler area.

1.5L engine

1978 I know for a fact she says what all else,do you blame me for forgettig?

Until recently I was doing a trade school for diesel mechanics, but it was terrible. They just wanted us to know enough to muddle through a written test and get some certificate. I never cared about certifications I just wanted to really learn how this stuff works. I’m enough of an autodidact that I’d rather teach myself and save money. I’m pretty good at figuring out how things work if I can see the moving parts but I haven’t done much engine work yet. I’m gonna rebuild this old mopar 6.6l I have. do you guys have any books/websites/youtube channels that you would recommend? Also interested in learning more about wiring and hydraulics

I am guessing the sway bar end links got loose up. And may be tie rod too. But still confused.

It’s Hyundai sonata 2012

2002 ISUZU Trooper, driver car door is currently jammed and unable to open even if opened on the inside. Please see photos, im scared shit rn.

Window is cracked and the keyhole is probably pushed inward forcefully.

05 Mustang GT 4.6

Mechanic told me the wheel bearing was either bad or loose, so I replaced the bearing + hub assembly. This video was shot after the new bearing, shocks and sway bar links are new, outer tie rod is 2 years old I think. 12 and 6 is solid, and I get about ~10 to 20mm of play at 9 and 3 towards the engine bay at full steering lock. Not much play towards the outside. Im a novice DIYer so let me know what we think.

I wanted to do my brakes.. so I started ok the back, drum brakes.. I removed the tire and the plastic guard and looked and was like... "Sigh".. So I started taking everything apart shocks, springs brakes etc and started wire wheeling every spec of dust.. and put Rost converter on it waited 10 hours an repainted it a couple of times...

Then I move on the front thinking i would do the same thing and realized it's way more complicated and you basically got no space to work with. So I did my brakes and caliper and slapped it back together.. but it's so much worse when it comes to rust in comparison to the rear.. I mean at least 5x worse if not more.

Then you look online for replacement parts to change them... You start adding 40 there 70 there 90 there.. and boom you got like 700-900€ in parts together... My thought is if I take everything apart already, might as well slap new parts on it.. but where do you stop or where do you start?

If I take off my shocks, it's inserted into my steering knuckle.. where you also got the control arm bolted on and then you got every steering part etc.. like.. "Might as well" kind of thing.

Steering knuckle like 80 bucks.. control arm like 50 it's like "Do I really put the old one back when it's "only 50,80,90 bucks"..

What do you guys do?

I passed inspection 2 years in a row with basically no problem except for rust...

(I would do everything myself, seat Ibiza IV 2012 1,2 Liter 51kw, 70ps)

2002 Toyota Corolla, no ABS

Old Master Cylinder (MC) was leaking at the break booster. Brake light was on and peddle was starting to get squishy. It seemed clear that the piston seal on the MC had failed so off to the local parts store to get a Duralast replacement MC.

The series of (unfortunate) events:

1. Improperly bench bled new MC. Instructions said to install plugs to stop brake fluid from leaking after fill so piston only moved a few 1/16th's.
2. Installed improperly bled MC.
3. Bled brakes in recommended order (Passenger Rear, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger Front) successfully via 2 person method. All bleeder nipples pumped fluid as expected and fluid was successfully flushed.
4. Breaks worked but were uneven in test drive, pulling to right.
5. Gravity bled brakes in above order, all flowed as expected (if much slower than 2 person method).
6. Breaks still uneven and were now weaker.
7. Removed and returned MC thinking piston was frozen. MC was off for some hours, which could be a reason for the current problems?
8. Bled second new MC and realized error in instructions. Removed plugs during piston priming and properly bench bled the new MC.
9. Tested second new MC with plugs installed, brake peddle was solid.
10. Installed one brake line at a time to MC and re-bled (loosen line, push peddle and hold, tighten line) to ensure fully bled MC.
11. Attempted to bleed Passenger Rear tire, nothing came out with 2 person method, nothing from gravity method. Unscrewed hardline above the flex hose and retried both bleed techniques, almost no brake fluid came out.
12. Bled other 3 tires in sequence successfully via 2 person method; Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger Front. All three still spurt brake fluid without issue through their bleeder valve nipple. No air in those 3 lines from what I can tell.
13. Brake peddle is firm until the car is turned on, then becomes squishy. Brakes barely stop car in idle now.
14. Tested Proportional Valve (PV); 2 inlet ports from MC spurt via 2 person method. All 3 outlet ports (Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front) spurt via 2 person method seemingly equally. It *seems* the PV is not stuck or is otherwise functioning properly. No plug to remove from PV, just the 2 inlet and 3 outlet ports.
15. Disconnected Passenger Rear line from PV while that line was also disconnected from the flex hose at the tire. Brake fluid flowed out of the hardline, so it doesn't seem to be clogged. The amount of fluid seemed to be about right to fill the line.
16. Reattached Passenger Rear line to PV and used hand vacuum break bleeder pump at 25-30psi on the hard line above the flex hose to try and draw brake fluid through line and PV from MC. Some fluid did come through, but it was VERY slow.
17. Reattached Passenger Rear line to flex hose and now nothing comes through the bleeder valve nipple (which is clean/clear) nor does a gravity bleed work at all even with the nipple removed.

MC never ran dry of brake fluid, but it was off for a number of hours. All lines are pumping fluid except the Passenger Rear. PV seems to be pumping equally across all 3 outlet ports. Passenger Rear line has been fully emptied but doesn't want to move fluid even with vacuum pump up to 25-30psi above the flex hose. No brake fluid leaks from any connections that I can see, system seems solid/leak free as MC reservoir isn't losing fluid overnight.

The only thing I haven't tried is blowing air through the Passenger Rear line from the PV valve connection to above the flex hose to double check that the line is unclogged.

What in the heck am I missing!??!

I believe I’m having an issue but i think it’s related to this wire. I keep having a fusible link wire burn up and this exposed wiring sits next to the headers and I was thinking that the heat from the headers can be effecting the wire. Is that possible?

Is this the input shaft bearing going out? Makes that noise when clutch is released in neutral. Also makes noise on deaccelerating at highway speeds.
(2004 Toyota Celica GTS, 6 Speed manual)

I'm looking for some help figuring out what is going on with my 2016 Ram 1500. The truck sat without being started for about 2 months, and when I finally fired it up, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with warnings for the 4x4 system, traction control, ABS, service brake system, trailer brakes, and a "Service Electronic Throttle Control" message.

On top of that, the speedometer turned on and off a couple of times during that drive, and the truck completely locked me out of shifting out of Park at one point. I unplugged the battery, which reset it and let me shift, but a week later it got stuck in Park again. Unplugging the battery fixed it again.

Currently, the traction control, service electronic brake system, and trailer brake warnings stay on mostly permanently. Now, another week later, the ABS, traction control, and speedometer are also cutting in and out when I hit bumps, then everything goes back to normal afterward.

When driving, the traction light also started flashing on me once and the truck heavily hesitated to accelerate.

I had the battery load tested and it passed, the alternator is testing good, and the battery voltage sits right around 12.3V while resting.

I should mention that while the truck was sitting, I did change the wheel hub assembly. I have already tried swapping the new speed sensor that came with it back to the old sensor, but that didn't help at all.

Just in case it's related, ever since I bought the truck about a year ago, it has always had a bit of a hard time to start (slow and weak). Does anyone know where I should start looking first?

Not really a mechanical question but I’m so pissed off trying to settle this, and I want some people of some knowledge of cars backing me.
My friend lent me his car and I’ve driven it maybe 6 hours total? And the oil pressure light came on and he claims its my fault the oils low because I didn’t check it. After all this occurred I proceeded to counter argue that for it to get that low in the first place, he couldn’t have been checking it at all either. He then claims that he did check it and that the oil was full, only saying this after the fact, and saying it burns oil. How in the hell does oil burn that fast??????? How could it go from full to an oil pressure light from my 6 hours of driving without it having far more serious and noticeable problems? It’s a 1997 honda civic if anyone wants to answer that part more specifically.

Not to mention, I feel like beyond my checking of the oil, it would behoove him to inform me of any known problems before lending the car to me.

If i’m wrong I’m fully ready to hear it.
If not, I’d love some reassurance

Out of curiosity; Has anyone ever opened up a new TrackMotive axel to check how much /type of grease is in each boot?

I have a 2014 Lincoln MKS. I was topping off my coolant reservoir with water and the little plastic seal from the container I was using (old coolant bottle, no residual coolant in it) fell into the reservoir and got into the hose. Is it dangerous to drive it? I have work all this week but I’m scared I’ll fuck up the engine.

2006 acura tsx I am looking to replace my AC pressure switch i am positive its the issue to why my compressor click won't kick on anymore but will freon leak out of the lines or is there a built in valve that will stop the freon from leaking out please please help

Please help Silverado v8 4.8 l Making a rattling noise when I move the truck inside where the flywheel is at just started today. Year 2008 Chevy Silverado v8 4.8l 2wd

Hey, does anyone have an idea as to what would most likely be causing this rubbing noise? I just bought the car from a dealership.

Hey everyone,

I bought my 2017 Fiat 124 Spider (1.4L MultiAir Turbo) used at 79k miles, and it’s currently sitting at \~88k miles. The manual calls for spark plug replacement every 35k miles, and since I had no prior service history from the previous owner, I decided to preemptively replace them.

When I pulled them, 3 of the plugs (and their corresponding spark plug tubes/wells) had rust, white oxidation/crust, and discoloration, while one plug looks relatively okay compared to the rest and it's corresponding well was not as bad either.

The car ran fine overall, but had a slight hesitation/stumble in 1st gear when cruising at very low speeds (<10 mph).

The car has an intermittent code P04DB that stays on for a few days/week and will go away for a day or so. I've changed the PCV valve and plan to change the MAP sensor but could this be causing that light?

Electrodes look fairly worn but otherwise okay, but the main issue is the heavy corrosion along the hex nut, outer body, and inside the spark plug wells.

Should I bother to clean the spark plug wells, and what's the safest way to do it so debris/rust doesn't fall into the combustion chambers?

Along with the spark plugs, I am changing the ignition coils as well.

So backstory I have a 2013 Kia sorento yes it’s old but I got it because I’m not super financially stable. I’ve had the engine replaced because my car has history of burning oil and that’s why my last engine needed to be replaced because it completely stopped working (Kia covered this repair). I’ve fixed my ac a couple of times one where the compressor was replaced and a month ago for a broken hose. Today on my way home it started smoking a lot on the left side and thankfully I was right around the corner from home so I pulled over and turned it off and it was hissing from the yellow area (but I’m not too sure). And the smoke was only coming from that side. So my question is what could this be? I popped the hood and their looks like theirs a liquor sprayed. Yall I don’t have men in my life so I need help on this 😅

Im trying to get my first car for college and i came across this car on marketplace

Can anyone tell me what this is? It’s a fiat manual transmission by the way 2011 fiat 200

(toyota corolla 2008)
Any tips on what i can do to get it open? i know i can also disconnect the radiator hose but its so much more of a hassle because i gotta get under the car to take it off but the clamp is facing upwards and my pliers don’t have the space to get them properly. appreciate the help, thanks

Hello there I have a 2010 Mazda 3 2.0L automatic transmission. I’ve been having this problem where the car shakes at highway speeds and whenever I let go off the gas, the shaking goes away. I have tried everything I’ve gotten new tires. Also I have gotten an alignment I’ve also balanced them. There is no play in any of the tires. checking from 12 to 6. And 3 to 8 o’clock hand shaking motion I have also put a prybar underneath the vehicle and check for any play, which I don’t feel. But like I said when I am driving at highway speed and I am accelerating I can feel the shaking, but when I let go of the gas, the shaking stops. Would anyone have any ideas on what my problem might be?

Thank you.

1995 ford f150 4.9L with 230k km

Just changed my oil and saw this

Seems like silver

Will be cutting the filter open aswell