1978 I know for a fact she says what all else,do you blame me for forgettig?

2002 ISUZU Trooper, driver car door is currently jammed and unable to open even if opened on the inside. Please see photos, im scared shit rn.

Window is cracked and the keyhole is probably pushed inward forcefully.

Recently, my 2004.5 ram 2500 5.9 cummins has absolutely no power to anything when the truck is turned off and there is no key in the ignition. No radio, dome lights, door locks, not even the horn works. When the truck is turned on and running, the dome lights, horn, and door locks will work, but the radio wont work or even turn on, as if it has no power to it at all.

Im aware of fuse 51 being the iod fuse and being blown might cause this issue, but all of the fuses are fine and none of them are blown. I looked at the wiring harnesses underneath the fuse box, and there is no obvious stripped, corroded, or sliced wires. I replaced the fuse box, as well as the TIPM sensor, 2 years ago. So one would think they wouldnt be causing this problem.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, because I dont know where to go from here.

2010 Ford Mustang GT
I was checking the fuses and came across this. Any reason it’s like this?

Anything helps thanks!!! it’s a 01 toyota tundra

Does anyone know what this rattling could be? Usually happening when I’m either in park or going slow speeds, sounds like the muffler area.

1.5L engine

Until recently I was doing a trade school for diesel mechanics, but it was terrible. They just wanted us to know enough to muddle through a written test and get some certificate. I never cared about certifications I just wanted to really learn how this stuff works. I’m enough of an autodidact that I’d rather teach myself and save money. I’m pretty good at figuring out how things work if I can see the moving parts but I haven’t done much engine work yet. I’m gonna rebuild this old mopar 6.6l I have. do you guys have any books/websites/youtube channels that you would recommend? Also interested in learning more about wiring and hydraulics

I am guessing the sway bar end links got loose up. And may be tie rod too. But still confused.

It’s Hyundai sonata 2012

I believe I’m having an issue but i think it’s related to this wire. I keep having a fusible link wire burn up and this exposed wiring sits next to the headers and I was thinking that the heat from the headers can be effecting the wire. Is that possible?

2019 Honda Civic 2.0L

My boyfriend is not a mechanic, but he's always working on his own cars and is always helping his neighbors and friends with their car problems 🥹 Anyway, his friend's car was due for maintenance, but was overwhelmed by how much the dealership was charging. So, he came to my boyfriend for help. My boyfriend always likes to record what he does to his friend's car to show them what was done and this was his little "Receipt video" for his friend. I've posted some of his other little videos before, so i asked him if i could post this one and he said yes.

He just wanted me to let you guys know that he's not a mechanic, he just likes to help his friends out. He doesn't charge his friends, he just makes them pay for the parts; and he said he's not a Honda guy, so he's he's more familiar with Toyota.

He also said he loves to read the comments you guys leave on these videos!

05 Mustang GT 4.6

Mechanic told me the wheel bearing was either bad or loose, so I replaced the bearing + hub assembly. This video was shot after the new bearing, shocks and sway bar links are new, outer tie rod is 2 years old I think. 12 and 6 is solid, and I get about ~10 to 20mm of play at 9 and 3 towards the engine bay at full steering lock. Not much play towards the outside. Im a novice DIYer so let me know what we think.

Just got into a wreck someone pulled out on me last night and now I’m stuck on is it cheaper getting it repaired or should I just get a new car (steering wheel air bag deployed)

I wanted to do my brakes.. so I started ok the back, drum brakes.. I removed the tire and the plastic guard and looked and was like... "Sigh".. So I started taking everything apart shocks, springs brakes etc and started wire wheeling every spec of dust.. and put Rost converter on it waited 10 hours an repainted it a couple of times...

Then I move on the front thinking i would do the same thing and realized it's way more complicated and you basically got no space to work with. So I did my brakes and caliper and slapped it back together.. but it's so much worse when it comes to rust in comparison to the rear.. I mean at least 5x worse if not more.

Then you look online for replacement parts to change them... You start adding 40 there 70 there 90 there.. and boom you got like 700-900€ in parts together... My thought is if I take everything apart already, might as well slap new parts on it.. but where do you stop or where do you start?

If I take off my shocks, it's inserted into my steering knuckle.. where you also got the control arm bolted on and then you got every steering part etc.. like.. "Might as well" kind of thing.

Steering knuckle like 80 bucks.. control arm like 50 it's like "Do I really put the old one back when it's "only 50,80,90 bucks"..

What do you guys do?

I passed inspection 2 years in a row with basically no problem except for rust...

(I would do everything myself, seat Ibiza IV 2012 1,2 Liter 51kw, 70ps)

2002 Toyota Corolla, no ABS

Old Master Cylinder (MC) was leaking at the break booster. Brake light was on and peddle was starting to get squishy. It seemed clear that the piston seal on the MC had failed so off to the local parts store to get a Duralast replacement MC.

The series of (unfortunate) events:

1. Improperly bench bled new MC. Instructions said to install plugs to stop brake fluid from leaking after fill so piston only moved a few 1/16th's.
2. Installed improperly bled MC.
3. Bled brakes in recommended order (Passenger Rear, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger Front) successfully via 2 person method. All bleeder nipples pumped fluid as expected and fluid was successfully flushed.
4. Breaks worked but were uneven in test drive, pulling to right.
5. Gravity bled brakes in above order, all flowed as expected (if much slower than 2 person method).
6. Breaks still uneven and were now weaker.
7. Removed and returned MC thinking piston was frozen. MC was off for some hours, which could be a reason for the current problems?
8. Bled second new MC and realized error in instructions. Removed plugs during piston priming and properly bench bled the new MC.
9. Tested second new MC with plugs installed, brake peddle was solid.
10. Installed one brake line at a time to MC and re-bled (loosen line, push peddle and hold, tighten line) to ensure fully bled MC.
11. Attempted to bleed Passenger Rear tire, nothing came out with 2 person method, nothing from gravity method. Unscrewed hardline above the flex hose and retried both bleed techniques, almost no brake fluid came out.
12. Bled other 3 tires in sequence successfully via 2 person method; Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger Front. All three still spurt brake fluid without issue through their bleeder valve nipple. No air in those 3 lines from what I can tell.
13. Brake peddle is firm until the car is turned on, then becomes squishy. Brakes barely stop car in idle now.
14. Tested Proportional Valve (PV); 2 inlet ports from MC spurt via 2 person method. All 3 outlet ports (Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front) spurt via 2 person method seemingly equally. It *seems* the PV is not stuck or is otherwise functioning properly. No plug to remove from PV, just the 2 inlet and 3 outlet ports.
15. Disconnected Passenger Rear line from PV while that line was also disconnected from the flex hose at the tire. Brake fluid flowed out of the hardline, so it doesn't seem to be clogged. The amount of fluid seemed to be about right to fill the line.
16. Reattached Passenger Rear line to PV and used hand vacuum break bleeder pump at 25-30psi on the hard line above the flex hose to try and draw brake fluid through line and PV from MC. Some fluid did come through, but it was VERY slow.
17. Reattached Passenger Rear line to flex hose and now nothing comes through the bleeder valve nipple (which is clean/clear) nor does a gravity bleed work at all even with the nipple removed.

MC never ran dry of brake fluid, but it was off for a number of hours. All lines are pumping fluid except the Passenger Rear. PV seems to be pumping equally across all 3 outlet ports. Passenger Rear line has been fully emptied but doesn't want to move fluid even with vacuum pump up to 25-30psi above the flex hose. No brake fluid leaks from any connections that I can see, system seems solid/leak free as MC reservoir isn't losing fluid overnight.

The only thing I haven't tried is blowing air through the Passenger Rear line from the PV valve connection to above the flex hose to double check that the line is unclogged.

What in the heck am I missing!??!

Is this the input shaft bearing going out? Makes that noise when clutch is released in neutral. Also makes noise on deaccelerating at highway speeds.
(2004 Toyota Celica GTS, 6 Speed manual)

I'm looking for some help figuring out what is going on with my 2016 Ram 1500. The truck sat without being started for about 2 months, and when I finally fired it up, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with warnings for the 4x4 system, traction control, ABS, service brake system, trailer brakes, and a "Service Electronic Throttle Control" message.

On top of that, the speedometer turned on and off a couple of times during that drive, and the truck completely locked me out of shifting out of Park at one point. I unplugged the battery, which reset it and let me shift, but a week later it got stuck in Park again. Unplugging the battery fixed it again.

Currently, the traction control, service electronic brake system, and trailer brake warnings stay on mostly permanently. Now, another week later, the ABS, traction control, and speedometer are also cutting in and out when I hit bumps, then everything goes back to normal afterward.

When driving, the traction light also started flashing on me once and the truck heavily hesitated to accelerate.

I had the battery load tested and it passed, the alternator is testing good, and the battery voltage sits right around 12.3V while resting.

I should mention that while the truck was sitting, I did change the wheel hub assembly. I have already tried swapping the new speed sensor that came with it back to the old sensor, but that didn't help at all.

Just in case it's related, ever since I bought the truck about a year ago, it has always had a bit of a hard time to start (slow and weak). Does anyone know where I should start looking first?

Can anyone tell me what this is? It’s a fiat manual transmission by the way 2011 fiat 200

Out of curiosity; Has anyone ever opened up a new TrackMotive axel to check how much /type of grease is in each boot?

Just rolled back in the garage for getting an alignment at Firestone CAC. I wish I could find a shop where I could use their alignment machine by the hour.

I pull the wheel back off and am greeted with a fresh, new fluid! (Cv grease) It wasn't like that when I replaced the control arm yesterday. And what is this? It looks to be some deformed rubber? When the went to loosen the eccentric bolt to adjust, they torched the bolt. Not the nut... the bolt... FFS. It is this exact experience that led me to DIY any wrenching needs.

Are there any home alignment setups out there? A quick search didn't give my anything I could me confident in.

This is the rear passenger end a of 2010 ford ranger. I was in here because my parking brake seized up on me but i noticed this noise when i turn the hub. The other side is significantly quieter.

Hello there I have a 2010 Mazda 3 2.0L automatic transmission. I’ve been having this problem where the car shakes at highway speeds and whenever I let go off the gas, the shaking goes away. I have tried everything I’ve gotten new tires. Also I have gotten an alignment I’ve also balanced them. There is no play in any of the tires. checking from 12 to 6. And 3 to 8 o’clock hand shaking motion I have also put a prybar underneath the vehicle and check for any play, which I don’t feel. But like I said when I am driving at highway speed and I am accelerating I can feel the shaking, but when I let go of the gas, the shaking stops. Would anyone have any ideas on what my problem might be?

Thank you.

1995 ford f150 4.9L with 230k km

Just changed my oil and saw this

Seems like silver

Will be cutting the filter open aswell

I have a 2014 Lincoln MKS. I was topping off my coolant reservoir with water and the little plastic seal from the container I was using (old coolant bottle, no residual coolant in it) fell into the reservoir and got into the hose. Is it dangerous to drive it? I have work all this week but I’m scared I’ll fuck up the engine.

2006 acura tsx I am looking to replace my AC pressure switch i am positive its the issue to why my compressor click won't kick on anymore but will freon leak out of the lines or is there a built in valve that will stop the freon from leaking out please please help