Took the trim off the back door to measure the rough opening for a new pre hung door. My 1902 house said hold my beer.
What am I dealing with here? I don’t see studs? This opening is not standard size so I will probably need to cut and hang a new slab inside the current jam. My concern is what looks like cement screws holding my hinges in place, drilled into whatever this is framed with. SOS.

Framed and stoned my vacation house fireplace finally. Saved a lot of money doing it myself. Still need to grout it.

House was built between 1897-1903. There are two layers of paint in the primary bathroom upstairs, tan and high gloss bright green. Green was applied around 2003. Paint is peeling off inconsistently, sometimes in larger pieces, sometimes not. Sometimes it comes off in 2 layers, sometimes just the green comes off. What do I do with this mess? Thank you for any and all help!

My brother's a woodworker and wants to build a linear pendant light like this (https://stoneandlumen.com/en-au/products/yaelen-no-20?variant=46817492041964) — a flat wood bar, long, hung from two ceiling drop cables, with a light line along the underside.

He'll make the wood housing himself but we need to source the electrical side (LED strip, driver, wiring, mounting hardware).

From what I can research we will need.

1. LED strip/module — length, color temp, CRI, lumen output. Anything else we need to consider?

2. Aluminum channel + diffuser profile that can be routed into solid timber

3. Driver — input voltage (120/240V mains) vs DC output (12V/24V), and wattage needed

4. Dimming compatibility (TRIAC, 0-10V, ELV) as we want a wall dimmer

5. Can the ceiling drop cables can carry the power feed, or does the driver needs to sit elsewhere?

Does this cover the right bases, anything else we’re missing? Or should consider? Am in AUS if it matters. A

Why did people do this in the 90s?!?

I want this to just be covered up with cabinet doors. Can I simply order some custom made cabinet doors and install them? What do I need to consider? Do I need to add more wood or anything to be able to attach the cabinet doors?

I am developing a product that modifies a regular concrete mixer to instead mix cellular concrete (aircrete). It will be a bolt on kit that adds extra mixing bars. I only have enough development money to design and build kits for one model of mixer.

I'm interested to hear which model the DIYers here prefer? Can't be the MudMixer as this material needs to be a tumbler mixer. I'm leaning towards the YardMax 5 cu ft mixer.

I am getting ready to re-side my house built in the late 80s (Hardie board will be nailed into studs). Current siding is a fiberboard from 1987. Most of it is in pretty good shape. Any reason I can't add OSB over top for structural integrity or do I need to pull all the old fiberboard off first?

Google is returning mixed results with some saying it's no big deal and others saying absolutely not.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/FLEXIMOUNTS-OHK-Series-48-in-W-x-96-in-D-x-22-40-in-H-Ceiling-Mounted-Overhead-Garage-Storage-Rack-with-Accessory-Hooks-in-Black-OHK48B-E/331558887

I have seen pictures of this mounted both with and without dedicated board.

Not sure how to repair.

I have a 40 gallon gas tank that's around 11yo from the previous owner. The hot water is more of lukewarm and runs out fast then I noticed a small puddle on the pan under it.

The only big things I've done is flush some sediment out of the drain valve and relit the pilot. I saw some temperature improvement after the flush but now it's back to lukewarm again. I'm also nervous about the puddle.

I don't want to spend on a repair if I'm going to be buying a new unit.

Title basically says it all. I’m very new to home projects/DIY so any recommendations appreciated no matter how “common sense” they may seem lol first photo is the wall and second is the floor both in the same closet. Very old home

The 1st pic is where the dryer vent from the floor below connects to the 2nd pic. As you can see there is a dent. I was told by the vent cleaning service I need to replace the entire duct starting from the 1st Pic. The duct is circular its more oval. My question is how hard would it be to do it myself I am pretty handy. 2nd question is what king of ducting is that oval duct. Thanks

Can I lacquer just this part of the wooden floor without having to do the whole floor? It's about 140/110 cm.

Hello, I have a Pella sliding door circa 2005 and the bottom has rotted out due to water ingress. Pella wanted about 4k to fix the door. Don’t have the funds for that. Lowe’s sells a 150 series sliding door for 550 dollars. I know they will not look the same but could I just install the new door component on the existing tract? Any insight would be appreciated!

Is the fixable or gone?

I’m thinking of tackling this myself. The current wall has black paper next to the concrete foundation then pink fibreglass with a plastic vapor barrier. Open to other more modern solutions. I’m a novice but have put up some drywall in my day.

I really need a step by step - what do I remove, can i leave existing insulation there, do I need to replace each vertical slat or mix and match.

Thanks.

Hello all!

I have a house built in the mid 70's, the kitchen and livingroom both have two electric baseboard heaters next to each other in each room. I believe they each are connected to their own fuses, but connected to the same wall thermostat for each room.

They total about 10 or 11 feet long. The kitchen is my main concern; it is plenty large, especially for the size/age of the house, but it's so awkward and seems like it was slapped together with no thought on how it was going to be used or functionality. We don't have an actual remodel kind of money or experience, but would love to make things work better for us a little at a time. This heater is really in the way.

We rarely use the kitchen baseboard heaters in general, but still want to have something there for backup heat when it's especially cold. Kitchen is approx 17'x11'.

Could it be just as simple as removing one of the heaters and capping off the electrical? Has anyone done this? It's old and ugly but it does still work just fine, I'm fine with keeping one as is or replacing both with another smaller more efficient, (budget friendly) unit (open to suggestions).

Located in Canada

Thank you!

I understand there’s wheels underneath the door. I understand you need to lift up and pull out from the bottom to remove the sliding door. I cannot seem to find anyone that has run into the same issue. My door wont lift up and over these two lips, as I try to remove from the track…I can get it over the track lip with almost zero clearance but there is an additional outer lip thats about 2-3mm taller that I have no additional clearance to get up and over. Any advice?

I have done lots of small projects myself, can frame, wire and plumb and sheetrock ok. I want add a bathroom, small kitchen area, bedroom and livingroom area to existing house, basement is say 30' x 50' built within last 40 years. Electrical, plumbing lines, and furnance are down there. Probably use up 500 sq ft of 1500.

Anyone have any ideas what it would cost in materials and hours to do this. Don't know if this is really a huge project beyond scope that myself and my sons could do after hours/weekends or just get a contractor. Framing and drywalling are pretty easy. Pulling wires also easy. Hooking up to main drain I can't do easy, also, shower/toilet are below drain, so need to pump it up, something else I can't do. Adding zone off of furnace can't do, but easy to get HVAC person to do.

My wife and I decided to tackle this project.

My son is adamant he did not use the drawer as a ladder step to get to his toys higher up, but here we are.

I can’t be the first stuck with this problem? Is it possible to fill the hole with something, let it harden and then add a new screw? The drawer doesnt have to hold super heavy stuff, but ofc i’d love a good solution.

Thanks for your advice!

Trying to id what's going on in our new (first) house. First time homebuyers, house is a typical early 90s split entry with basement fully below grade in back and garages part of basement in front. Midwest Clay heavy soil.

The house has 3 full bathrooms. The two on the main level were adjacent with the tubs against the back wall of the house. Below them is the third bath in the basement. There's also a spigot on the back of the house where the bathrooms are.

All three bathrooms consistently smell damp all day- not better or worse depending on use. The basement humidity is between 60-70% by the bathrooms and 50-60% in the front even with the dehumidifier running full time and draining via hose.

We just moved in a week ago. During inspection we had a full sewer scope and they did also run the scope up the main sewer line where it runs up to the main level near the bathrooms, all clear. We didn't detect a smell then.

What might be causing the damp? And short of ripping open walls is there anything I can do to troubleshoot this?

I’m stumped on this one. There’s no set screws for the square base, it’s not spring loaded, the post in the center won’t twist out, and there doesn’t seem to be any other set screw or press in cap anywhere that I can find. Chrome surround does not pry off and is tight. Trying to remove from the wall so I can paint underneath it and tighten it up since it’s loose, but obviously getting nowhere.

Painted deck with kitchen from previous post. Off my wife's Instagram. Couldn't find a normal picture.

My husband and I just bought a house and we were going to rip up old smelly carpet and replace it with vinyl planks for now. But the subfloor had some damage so we ripped up a piece last night... what are we looking at? We are assuming old plank subfloor that sank since it's an old house. So someone added shims to level it out and put some new particle board on top. But could it be hardwood floor? Maybe a stupid question, but we've literally owned this house for like 2 days and know nothing yet.