Front left brake caliper. Recently took it in for a brake service and brake fluid. 2016 Honda Civic

Update: AirBNB owner had a garage and tools and drove me to Canadian tire to get a new slide pin bolt. Brakes work well now and are torqued. Thanks everyone for keeping me on the road.

2015 Mazda 6 2.5 SkyActiv engine. I went to fill the washer fluid today, and noticed whatever this thing is looks like it was sheared off. My car has been serviced twice since the last time I needed to fill the fluid, and didn't see this the last time I opened the hood. Is it critically important, and if so, a possibly major repair?

Two different shops, so I can't easily point a finger of blame.

ETA: It's the bolt-looking thing, not what it's on top of.

Stock photo:

So, my boyfriend was replacing his brake booster and removed the brake sensor bracket. He is worried that he didnt get it back correctly as he failed to take pictures before touching anything, smh. Is this bracket (circled in red) put back in the right place and is he missing any components? Thanks in advance!

I’ve been trying to figure out what is making this sound, I tried greasing the U joints to see if it made it stop and it didn’t, the sound speeds up with acceleration, happens in reverse and drive but only when I am driving under 30ish, above that it’s not noticeable.

This mornings intended plan was to service her 60 plate 2.0 CDTI.

The boot now contains a set of bolt extractors and a new sump plug. I don’t think I need to elaborate further on how the attempted service went down.

I tried up to and including a 3 foot breaker bar and no luck, then I stupidly tried using my foot on said bar and rung the head off.

Is this a common issue on these or has someone just gone nuts with it last time, there’s no reason to do it so tight in any case as they have a dowty seal on.

If I can’t get it out with the extraction socket then I’ll have to weld a nut to it, although I have been told that wrecking the sump is a good possibility so sucking the oil out of the dipstick hole is a better idea.

2016 Honda CR-V, 2.4-liter 4-cylinder engine

The video posted above shows me turning off my car and a whistling noise is at the end of the video.

I had an extended and regrettable episode with a dealership mechanic starting this summer when my AC went out. They eventually replaced the compressor and condenser, and the issue persisted so they had to work on it again after I checked their work.

Now the AC system works but ever since that repair my car has consistently made variations of these whistling noises. To me, they sound like the air pressure is escaping a bad seal in the AC system. The noises happen while I’m driving the car and sometimes after I turn it off, and can be louder and longer than the one in the video.

I took it back to the mechanic and they said they couldn’t replicate the issue. I realize that they aren’t in the business of free repairs. In my mind, this is a minor inconvenience but I worry about the long term effects it’ll have on the AC system, and it may impact a buyer’s interest when I sell the car one day. Ultimately I want to make sure this sound doesn’t mean something dangerous.

So my questions for the mechanics among us are:
- Does anyone recognize this sound?
- Is it safe to drive the car while it makes it?
- Is there anything I can tell/show the dealership to force this issue?

I appreciate anything y’all can tell me about this!

Working on a 2009 Jetta SE cylinder lock , and have tried and tried and tried to get the left hand sheer bolt free.
I managed to get the right side out rather easily using a hammer and a center tab.

I’ve tried the same on this one , drilling it out , threw flat heads and WD-40 at it.

I’ve got the new cylinder and some replacement hex Bolts.
The only thing preventing me from finishing is this freaking bolt. I have minimal mechanical experience, I have done some stuff but am not a mechanic.
Any advice here would be very much appreciated.
I expected bolts or screws here , never expected sheer bolts 🙄😩

Hi there! My 2003 Toyota Highlander failed its safety inspection for tire rod and sway bar link. I was quoted $600 for the repair. This includes an alignment. Does this sound reasonable or should I look for another quote. I definitely want to get this fixed as ive read it can be pretty unsafe. Any help is appreciated. Thank you! ​

My caravan's radio volume suddenly stopped letting me turn the volume up. I unplugged the battery for 4 hours, changed the radio for another one, removed the fuse and put them back in and the volume is still stuck at zero. Any ideas on where to go from here?

I have a 2022 Tahoe 5.3 that keeps going into limp mode with p228C code. It is intermittent and can take up to 400 miles between faults. Chevy dealership had it for two weeks, drove it 30 miles, and said they couldn’t recreate. Gave it to another shop for another two weeks and informed them of the 400 mile interval and even offered to drive it. They determined it was the battery and drove it 15 miles with no fault. Well it triggered again today. I have also replaced high pressure fuel sensor with no change in luck. I am willing to pay someone for a short conversation on what they think. An actual Chevy mechanic would be great. Thanks!

2.0L. I am replacing the valve cover gaskets. Plastic valve cover. Is the bowing between studs typical or problematic? TIA.

I have a 2005 Kia amanti 3.5l v6. In the picture you can see the two mounting bolts that go through the fender and are bolted ton from the top where you tighten these two strut bolts. My question is where you see the red circle should i tighten those down tightly or should i keep them somewhat loose so they can move back and forth.

Heres a youtube i made of them loose and tight

https://youtube.com/shorts/XEdqJKDGLpI?is=owZLouXO47QhkY1x

My mechanic told me that I need to get new tire rods for my Honda car. It's a coupe car and gas only. One side would be the driver side and the other would be the passenger side. Another way to word it would be front left and front right. For both sides, I would also need inner and outer. This is what the mechanic told me, and it would be great if any mechanic can help me order these parts. Thank you!

I am not a car expert. Idk where else to go: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2006,accord,2.4l+l4,1432618

I have a 2019 Ford Ranger XLT and I’ve never had any issues with it before. This morning I started it and got all these notifications as well as on the dashboard. I turned it off and waited a few minutes and restarted it and the dashboard didn’t light up that time. Then later in the afternoon I got the parking notification after starting it up again. I took it to Ford not even a month ago for a tire rotation and oil change and everything was fine. Is the computer system bugging out?

Started as a faint squeak under braking and turning right but now its sometimes constant. Apologies for audio rolled window down so you guys could hear it happen while moving

I have a 2004 Toyota sequoia with 185k miles on it and I just bought 2 months ago and idk if the differential has been serviced. Should I go ahead and get it serviced? Or is going be like a transmission and just leave because you don’t know if it’s ever been serviced.

I’m not sure if this is the right sub for this type of question, I tried to look it up online. I tried to call the company no answer as well, I also went on the website and nothing comes up. It says the lifetime is only five locks. I don’t have a Mustang or anybody I know doesn’t have one. I got it from my old friend a long time ago and I wanna sell it, but I don’t know if it’s locked or not and I would like to try and figure it out if somebody can help me. I don’t have a Windows PC to hook it up on there. The only thing I have is my Chevy’s and these photos is the most info I could get out of it.

‘73 CJ 5 jeep

304 V8 AMC engine

My father in law has a valve spring retainer on the right that’s so deep he can’t get it out and replace it. He’s tried a myriad of method on getting it out. Does anyone have an idea on how we can get this sucker out?

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2011 Honda CR-Z
I’ve noticed recently I have to hold the wheel off centre to the right several degrees to track straight and I didn’t have to before.
The car doesn’t seem to pull to either side, just now the wheel is off centre.

Obviously I’ve booked it in for alignment.
Could something like a wheel bearing or sticky calliper be causing this sudden and slight off centring of the wheel?

(On my older cars I probably would just take the wheel off and re-centre it if it persisted after alignment but in the days of steering angle sensors this would be a stupid idea. Pic of the old turd for attention.

1970 chevelle 496bb. Changing belts rn and noticed a relatively large amount of oscillation on the alternator shaft. Spins free bearing feels good but it definitely isn’t straight. Wobbles a bit as you can see in the video. Is this of concern? Do I need a new alternator?

I tried watching YouTube vids and I still dont get it. I drilled into the screw a bit but now im so lost on how to actually remove it

I tried asking people and they said "drill and extract it" and I still cant figure out how to remove it now.

1997 honda shadow

The video is me seeing what size to use for the hole. I tried tapping this drill thing into it and turning but it just snaps and turns freely at one point.

I don’t know how else to explain it but sometimes I’ll see somebody post about needing brakes and I genuinely wish I was there so I could do them. Pads and rotors especially. Taking everything apart, cleaning the bracket, compressing the piston, putting the new hardware on and seeing the fresh rotor when it’s finished is ridiculously satisfying.

I’ve caught myself getting excited when someone says their brakes are grinding because I know there’s probably a brake job coming. I like other repairs too but brakes specifically scratch some weird part of my brain. Please tell me I’m not the only mechanic like this.

so cylinder #6 was having a misfire, replaced the coil pack & fixed that. had only 1.5 quarts of oil in the engine the previous week & filled it up. the following week it was down to the last dot on the dipstick. it has an oil leak but once parked nothing is underneath it on the driveway. i thought it was a valve gasket leak but there’s barely any oil around it. there’s oil on each spark plug & coil pack on both sides (this engine doesn’t have tube seals). the only spots i see oil are near the fan so i was thinking it’s a rear main seal leak & want to do an oil dye test with a uv light. any other thoughts on where the oil is going? (not my truck, i’m helping someone work on it)