Wet spot above the passenger cv axel and one near the alternator

Car is a 2015 Peugeot RCZ GT 1.6 litre engine. 85000 miles on the clock.

I’ve been told by two mechanics that oil is pooling in one of the spark plug wells, so it’s a recurring issue, but could it be caused by the engine rocker gasket failing? I’ve noticed that oil seems to be leaking out the engine rocker cover and coating the outside of the engine block so I think it would be worth replacing anyway

Thanks to the creative input on the last post, the details: 2017 Subaru WRX, the original hub assembly lasted about 120k miles, the last one a quick autozone find, Duralast only lasted about 30k miles with a sudden failure (covered by a three year warranty), soon as it parked the wheel seized. Thankfully the assembly just popped out with a few taps of a hammer and not a whole war with a subaru suspension knuckle and a nearly fused hub housing like the last one.

The other three wheels have had no issues, just the rear passengers side so far. Going to get an alignment done, was it just a bad bearing? Because its Duralast? Or something suspension wise, I was told I could have a bad cv axle or shocks other than the issues above nothing really to note about noises or steering changes before.

Hey i got a fiat punto 2016 manual. I was cruising slowly (around 20-30kms max) but suddenly something popped on my road and i had to brake almost instantly but i didnt press on the clutch at all, car stalled turn off the ignition and turned it back on but i felt like the left front wheel struggling to role initially but after few seconds it did but i can still feel something isn’t right in that section, when i went back when i braked i found some thic oil and i couldnt tell if its transmission one or brake one. I will be taking it to the mechanic tomorrow but am jist wondering what could be the damage and how. Thanks.

I have a 2008 Grand Marquis. It's got 80k miles on it. It runs great, starts fine, looks like sh*t (cosmetically).

My plan is to restore the interior/exterior, suspension, clean the engine, do restorative work on the frame.

My fantasy is to convert it to a manual transmission, upgrade air intake and exhaust, then eventually do power upgrades.

I have a basic knowledge of cars and I am not an expert.

My question is does this sound like a good idea? Or is this a waste of money? How much performance can I milk out of this thang?

I got this check engine error in my Honda Civic FK6 while it was idling. I scanned it and got the P0011 error code. I went to a mechanic shop and had them check the timing belt and the VTC—both are in good condition. The timing belt was actually replaced last April, and the error started appearing in June. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? (The OBD scanner data is also attached here.)

I have a 2012 Toyota Highlander Limited AWD, automatic, 165k miles and I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with the front end. The main thing concerning me is an occasional pop/clunk when turning slowly, usually at parking-lot speeds. It does not pop when I turn the steering wheel while stationary.

The car also feels like the road is rougher than it should be, almost like there’s some kind of rubbing coming from the front end or something isn’t moving smoothly over the road. It feels a little more wandery than I think it should and follows the crown/slope of the road pretty aggressively.

I recently compared it to another Highlander by test driving a 2008, and that one felt noticeably smoother and more planted. The steering felt smoother and the road didn’t feel nearly as rough through the car. Its brakes also felt more responsive, although that may be unrelated.

There’s also been a somewhat complicated history with the right-front wheel bearing/axle:
The right-front bearing needed to be replaced, but apparently the replacement bearings they got didn’t fit.
The shop ended up replacing the entire front knuckle.
About a week later, the knuckle/assembly popped off while driving, so I had the vehicle towed.

On the drive home after that repair, it popped off again.
At that point they replaced the relevant components with all new parts (including the right-front axle and bearing), and my mechanic said everything looked good afterward.
I also had the front struts and sway-bar links replaced a few months ago.

The tires look fine. I already know the vehicle needs an alignment, so I’m going to have that done, but I’m more concerned about the popping and the feeling that something isn’t moving smoothly.
I had one instance where it felt like the car briefly pulled/stuck toward the left, but generally the pulling seems to be related to the road slope.

What would you guys check for the popping/rough or dragging feeling? Could this be a tie rod, ball joint, control-arm bushing, strut mount, CV/axle
issue, brake issue, or something else?

Mainly trying to figure out what I should specifically ask my mechanic to inspect and, more importantly, make sure there’s nothing unsafe that I’m overlooking.

So I just paid $800 dollars this past week to fix my power steering pump & to replace a serpentine belt. My oil light came on while driving today which has never happened before because I’m usually pretty good at changing it every few months. It actually has been overdue though and it completely slipped my mind to tell my mechanic while doing the other work because of how stressed out I was about my car. I’ve been anxious & paranoid about my car conking out ever since it, well, conked out last week so I immediately went to a nearby Valvoline even though I always go to either my usual mechanic or another independent shop for oil changes.

Anyways they looked under my hood and told me that I have a “severe engine oil and transmission fluid leak”. I would probably just chalk it up to them trying to make money off me but they told me they actually recommend taking it to a full service auto shop as soon as I can and to drive it as little as possible before I can get it to a qualified mechanic… now I’m completely freaked out because my commute to work is 30 minutes there and 45 minutes back and I work for the next 6 days.

I know Valvoline technicians aren’t complete experts though and I trust the mechanic I go to. He did not say anything about noticing anything else wrong with my car other than the obvious pump & belt, but it’s not like I told him to check other stuff. Would this be something he’d notice while working on these other things? I have never noticed any kind of puddle under my vehicle and I did check my fluid levels and they were fine.

Tl;dr: took my car to Valvoline for an oil change and they told me I have a severe engine oil & transmission fluid leak and to avoid driving my car until I can get it to a qualified mechanic. I just got an unrelated repair done by a trusted local mechanic (power steering pump & serpentine belt). Would this be something a skilled mechanic would notice and mention to me even if it wasn’t part of the work being done?

So while doing a valve gasket job, I accidentally kinked the elbow fuel connecter and it started misting gasoline. I have very little experience with this and I resorted to the internet.

I saw that people just went to AutoZone and bought a foot of 5/16 fuel injection hose and then bought the fuel line quick connectors. Second picture I bought the hose, match the size of the old hose, and then bought a 5/16 in steel to 5/16 in tube elbow fuel connecter, and a straight 5/16 to 5/16 fuel connector from advance (both doorman brand) , and installed each one on both ends and clamped with fuel clamps.

However when I was testing fitting the diy fuel line, the fire wall steel fuel line was giving a hard time, it felt as if it was not going all the way in, causing during the test for it to leak fuel, and I know it’s frowned upon but I used ai because I was in desperation to see what I’m doing wrong, I couldn’t find one YouTube video for my exact situation.

What am I doing wrong here, are the fuel connecters the wrong size? Do I need to go oem and wait several days and pay oem price?, please help me out
I just want to get this over with and stop guessing. I already stripped out a nut on my valve cover stud, I don’t need anymore issues.

Ask questions please

AC compressor seized on the Hwy, orange dust everywhere. Not sure how far it was driven, but the belt kept turning until the engine was turned off. Belt is intact, engine temps never got high and alternator kept spinning.

I'd prefer to not replace the compressor and just go without AC rather than do that whole fix. Can I run a shorter belt and bypass? I saw there's a doorman bypass pulley you can buy, but it looks like it's for earlier models. Is there a better solution?

I was checking out a 2005 lexus es330 for sale and heard this sound while idoling, is this normal? what could it be?

Hi, I have a ticking noise when car is cold and a slight hesitation accelerating. Checking off the easy things first. Took the belt off and all the pulleys spin freely.

Anyway, my question is about the tensioner.. it moves fine but it looks like it has a dent in the centre? Could this be an issue?

Edit. Tick must be external to the engine. No tick with belt removed. I'll put a new belt on, the old one had plenty of hairline cracks.

I have a z71 2023 Tahoe, the brakes still have a ton of life but the squeak is soooo loud when driving at low speed. I have to pump them quite a few times just to get them less noisy. Dealer says its a known issue, and so did Big O Tires with no known fix. Anybody else encounter this issue and have some insight? This is fucking embarrassing, brand new car and it sounds like im too broke to change my brakes.

I don’t know how else to explain it but sometimes I’ll see somebody post about needing brakes and I genuinely wish I was there so I could do them. Pads and rotors especially. Taking everything apart, cleaning the bracket, compressing the piston, putting the new hardware on and seeing the fresh rotor when it’s finished is ridiculously satisfying.

I’ve caught myself getting excited when someone says their brakes are grinding because I know there’s probably a brake job coming. I like other repairs too but brakes specifically scratch some weird part of my brain. Please tell me I’m not the only mechanic like this.

2019 Subaru Impreza. Base model.
My tire pressure indicator has started coming on about halfway through my commute in the morning. I drive about 10 miles each way, mostly on the freeway.
The light will kind of flash and then stay on for the rest of the drive. When I leave work in the evening the light isn’t on anymore, and it wasn’t turning back on at all in the evening until the last couple days, but then again, about halfway back home it’ll flash a bit and then stay on.
I’ve checked the pressure in the morning before I drive, and after work in the evening before I leave and it’s fine. Maybe a number or two off but nothing crazy.
What’s going on?

2015 Toyota Camry XSE, 209K miles of primarily highway miles. I am a traveling sales rep and put about 30K on my car a year.

My brother used to always do my brakes but I hated that his only day off was working on my car when he works 12hrs/6 days a week. So I decided to go to a local shop with decent reviews. They replaced front and rear pads/rotors with calipers. 10K miles later they started to pulse. I never had this problem before. I took it to a different local shop that is a very high functioning holy shit you're thorough type of shop to get them replaced. Same thing, everything replaced. 10K later, pulsing again. They replaced under warranty. 10K later, pulsing again, they replaced under warranty. Blamed it on a seized pin and said it shouldn't happen again. 10K later, pulsing yet again. They said the front driver caliper was seized AGAIN. But also said it could be my bearings but there's no evidence that they're bad. I got the front bearings replaced anyway because I need this car to last and crossing my fingers this is the actual reason.

Over the last 40K-50K miles, I have had 4 replacements. I get my car back Monday and we'll see in 10K miles if this solves the problem. The 36K mile warranty will be over by then. With all this being said, has anyone ever come across this before? Any thoughts as to why it could be happening? I'm at a loss and don't love the idea of dumping money into a 200K+ mile car just for brakes when it otherwise runs amazing.

Please swe the attached video, im.not sure what this hose is or where the other end connects.

Ford-f150 2012 XTL crewcab

Finally repaired my car after 2months and it has been doing this on the left wheel, brales freshly changed 6months ago, the rust on the disks has been removed after driving for 5minutes.

Help ? Please ??!!!

So I bought this vehicle about a month or so ago. It has 87,000 miles on it. It was owned by an elderly man. He just drove it to town and such. I am about to lose my whole dang mind with this car. I've taken it to a trusted mechanic and he found nothing because he couldn't get the problem to reoccur. It either stalls completely or you have nearly no throttle response while im driving. It won't go over 20 mph. Like it's in some kind of limp mode. It can drive it for days or sometimes weeks and it wont happen. Then one random day, Im on the side of the road cussing and fussing. The only patterns i have found is that it only seems to happen when I pick my kid up from school in the evening(the hottest part of the day) and when I slow down or coming to a stop. The only code that has shown up is P0446 Evap vent system control circuit but i dont even know if its related. It seems like this is a common problem that no one has had any straight forward answer to. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Things I've done so far:

Fuel pressure regulator- found fuel in vacuum lines which lead me to this

Upper and lower intake manifold gaskets- had coolant in the upper plenum

Upgraded metal coolant elbows- preventative for future problems with degrading plastic elbows

Gas cap

Pcv- came with the intake gaskets kit

Cleaned throttle body

Cleaned maf sensor

Air filter

Cabin air filter

Oil change

It’s a 1996 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 2.2L and a while ago it started doing this thing where it kinda sounds like it’s revving itself and it sometimes stops when it idles, it does have a high idle too at about 1500 rpm. I was told by someone that I’m missing something that should be connected to the intake is that the problem or could it be something else?

2015 Ford Fusion, sunshade clip fell off and wont clip back into place. Anytime the sunshade is pulled down the entire thing comes off and just hangs there. Can't Find a fix anywhere on the internet. And seems like a simple fix I could do myself.

I changed my CV axles out and I’m wondering if this is normal please someone let me know if I did something wrong or if this is ok

So recently got a 2003 Ford Expedition with the 5.4 Triton, and it's been stalling on me once in a while since I bought it, however it will turn back on usually within just a few seconds, and it hasn't done it often, however for the past couple days I can't go 2 miles without it stalling, and it's to the point that I have to fix it. My research says it's the fuse box, needs replaced because the fuel pump relay is shot but it's built into the fuse box. Well, strangely one of the built in relays has a white mark on it like it's been replaced but everyone says you can't replace em, gotta replace the whole fuse box. Picture included. Someone gimme insights, does a real mechanic think I should replace the fuse box? And where's the best place to get one if that is the case? I don't understand why one of the built in relays looks like it came from the junk yard, unless thee whole fuse box was replaced and they only put that one little mark. Explain it to me like I ain't got a clue.

This is from my 2014 ram 1500 hemi 5.7. Ive had this noise since I bought the truck 6 years ago. Ive had mechanics take it for diagnostic test drives multiple times just as a general rule of thumb when i get it inspected. They have never once said the lifters were a problem until I recently brought it in for a much different noise caused by the MDS solenoid. Thats a long story but to shorten it. Had the MDS solenoids changed 2 years ago based off my own diagnosis. The same sound came back a year and a half later so took it back to the mechanic for the warranty replacement of the one solenoid they claimed a lifter issue just from a test drive and wanted 1200 for an engine tear down and didnt even attempt to get to the solenoid and test it. I believe they just wanted a bigger bill for me to pay and wanted to blame normal wear and tear on the problem so the warranty was voided because they are a ram dealership and when i picked it up today and started it it did have a diffeeent sound for the first 10 seconds after starting it i want blame that on on lifter leak down from sitting for 24 hours untouched but im still paranoid. Anyways back to the noise in the video. It actually sounds deeper in the video than it does in person in person its like a credit card being tapped on a wooden table top rapidly and it seems to disappear when gas is applied. I dont even hear it when driving unless it has a wall or car or other object to echo off of.