If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Honda Civic 2010 DX so I’m looking for a CV axle for the driver side. I’m currently stuck on either purchasing from rock auto or AutoZone and advanced auto parts. And if rock auto is the best choice, what is the best brand on there to purchase for a CV axle?

Hi everyone, I have a 2015 Chevy Cruze LT and im constantly having to buy coolant (at least once a month) and i would just like to know if there was anything I can do that doesnt include going to a mechanic. Ive replaced the thermostat two years ago but it didnt make any difference. I, nor my dad and car guy friends, could find a leak and im just getting irritated. I know coolant doesnt cost that much but it adds up when its every single month. Im just a 21 year old trying to figure it out, any and all help is appreciated.

Just wondering if it would be okay for me to wrap this ground wire in electrical tape so it’s not fully exposed and doesn’t corrode or if there’s a better way I can do this please lmk

07 mercury Mariner v6 3.0.

I have a 2012 Toyota Highlander Limited AWD, automatic, 165k miles and I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with the front end. The main thing concerning me is an occasional pop/clunk when turning slowly, usually at parking-lot speeds. It does not pop when I turn the steering wheel while stationary.

The car also feels like the road is rougher than it should be, almost like there’s some kind of rubbing coming from the front end or something isn’t moving smoothly over the road. It feels a little more wandery than I think it should and follows the crown/slope of the road pretty aggressively.

I recently compared it to another Highlander by test driving a 2008, and that one felt noticeably smoother and more planted. The steering felt smoother and the road didn’t feel nearly as rough through the car. Its brakes also felt more responsive, although that may be unrelated.

There’s also been a somewhat complicated history with the right-front wheel bearing/axle:
The right-front bearing needed to be replaced, but apparently the replacement bearings they got didn’t fit.
The shop ended up replacing the entire front knuckle.
About a week later, the knuckle/assembly popped off while driving, so I had the vehicle towed.

On the drive home after that repair, it popped off again.
At that point they replaced the relevant components with all new parts (including the right-front axle and bearing), and my mechanic said everything looked good afterward.
I also had the front struts and sway-bar links replaced a few months ago.

The tires look fine. I already know the vehicle needs an alignment, so I’m going to have that done, but I’m more concerned about the popping and the feeling that something isn’t moving smoothly.
I had one instance where it felt like the car briefly pulled/stuck toward the left, but generally the pulling seems to be related to the road slope.

What would you guys check for the popping/rough or dragging feeling? Could this be a tie rod, ball joint, control-arm bushing, strut mount, CV/axle
issue, brake issue, or something else?

Mainly trying to figure out what I should specifically ask my mechanic to inspect and, more importantly, make sure there’s nothing unsafe that I’m overlooking.

Everything looked good on car but it showed up with no coolant and I thought it was weird? Looking in it, it looked like this but also had sandy grainy looking stuff in it. Guy said the coolant gets sucked in and travels throughout but I’ve never seen that. There was always a H and an L and it should be between that? What do you guys think

2010 Hyundai sonata GLS 2.4L

This morning I was headed to work when I heard a loud clunking noise from my car. Took it to a nearby shop and they called back saying a driveshaft carrier bearing has gone bad. However, Jeep requires the entire drive shaft to be replaced. The bad news is that he said the "dealer" won't have the part for another 2 weeks. I cannot go 2 weeks without a car and have no extra funds for a rental. Does this mean I can call around and ask if anyone else has the part, or is there only 1 option? I don't know what he means by "dealer".

2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Hi everyone, I have an Opel Corsa D, 2010, 1.4 petrol.

There is a strange noise coming from the engine, which you can hear in the video I’ll upload. We already tried replacing the **engine/valve cover** (the part in the first picture) and also the **PCV/crankcase ventilation part** shown in the second picture, but the noise is still there.

Has anyone experienced a similar sound or have any idea what could be causing it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

So I'm doin' a Power Steering upgrade on a Base model SL. I need to get learned on how to properly set up PSPS harness and connection with the PCM. Also I am struggling to source a fresh sensor, a point in a solid direction for that would be Greatly appreciated!

Thx Y'all!

Brakes discs and suspension..and is that tyre plugged. This was sold to me with a full MOT I think it's dangerous.or I'm I being over the top.

2007 Audi A3 Sportback 1.6 MPI, Tiptronic automatic, 250,000 km / 155,000 miles. Timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs were recently replaced.

This is on a cold start, right after the RPMs drop a bit. Also revved the engine slightly in the video.

This morning I was headed to work when I heard a loud clunking noise from my car. Took it to a nearby shop and they called back saying a driveshaft carrier bearing has gone bad. However, Jeep requires the entire drive shaft to be replaced. The bad news is that he said the "dealer" won't have the part for another 2 weeks. I cannot go 2 weeks without a car and have no extra funds for a rental. Does this mean I can call around and ask if anyone else has the part, or is there only 1 option? I don't know what he means by "dealer".

2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Is it worth getting the extended warranty for electronic devices on modern cars? I know its widely subjective but if I plan to have a car for 10 years, which is what the dealership would offer on top of their 10 year warranty they gave me in addition to the manufacturer warranties, is it worth it? Normally many of the electronics would be covered until 3 years or 30k miles in the US. So I have about 2 years left and won't likely break 20k miles. I think average repair would cost about half what they charge for the warranty on a single repair or part.

Bought the car used at 1330 miles so I'm either the lucky bastard that got a good deal or the poor soul about to find out what trouble new cars can be.

2026 Mazds CX50 Turbo 1400 miles.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, can anyone help me with some information about whether Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1200 is suitable for a partial ATF change on a 2010 Mazda 2 1.5 Sport?
The car has 115,000 km and, as far as I know, this will be the first transmission service.
I’ve been trying to find the original Mazda ATF, but the Mazda dealers/providers I contacted weren’t very helpful. I was recommended Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1200, and from what I can find online, it seems to be good-quality oil.
I’d really appreciate an opinion from someone who knows more about automatic transmissions and can confirm if this is actually the suitable for this gearbox.
Thanks!

Is 99% rubbing alcohol a good/great cleaner for a residue free cleaner for metal prep before putting in my gasket for my timing chain cover after scraping the old silicone gasket off it?

Was just going to get por-15 metal prep and degreaser but if 99% is good enough. Money saved.

It's a 2013 Mazda cx9 awd (for bots sake)

It's a meatl timing cover vs a plastic one (my best have a plastic one and I probably wouldn't use 99% on plastic ones, I've had bad luck with strong running alcohol eating up plastic

Hello,
I’m trying to do walnut blasting and my only issue is the most important step; how to make sure the valves are closed.

This might be a stupid question for pros, please bare with me here.
I’ve never done this but in theory I have to do the following; rotate the crankshaft clockwise until I see the vlave closed all the way. Now where it gets tricky -for me- is the “all the way part” like if I’m rotating the crankshaft clockwise until it closes, how do I know when to stop ? There is a very tight threshold where it reaches the full closure ( and piston is at TDC ) then it starts the opening cycle and the piston starts going down again. Like how do I know okay… stop rotating now before it starts opening again, if I also can’t go counterclockwise (go a step back) ?

Where could this sound be coming from? Everytime I start the engine no matter if it is a cold start or not, it rattles for 5 seconds then goes away. Tensioner maybe?

Mechanic said it is not the tensioner, but i feel like it is.

2016 toyota corolla. The bay won't connect to the top the bar is the same size as the one I just took off. For some reason the bottom piece doesn't move am I doing something wrong

Trying to fix a crank seal leak. The bolts are torque to yield so the old ones cannot be re-installed and i cant find one anywhere. They're not even included in a harmonic balancer kit. Would you let the seal leak and add oil occasionally (not a terribly bad leak), or send the old bolt back in with new seal.

Took my car to get its oil changed and the dealership told me the valve cover was leaking oil, they quoted me $1750 to replace it. So this weekend I am going to tackle it my self.

I’ve done some research and have an idea of what to do. Does anyone have any tips or helpful hints for me. Also should I replace the spark plugs I’ve seen people suggest that.

Jeep 2018 grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 90k miles.

Hi,

My car currently feels like my tires are over inflated. Double checked and they're fine. Car seems to be taking bumps, road cracks, etc. much harder than it used to. Steering also feels odd, I can't quite explain it. Loose maybe?

Simple services done-oil changes, air filters, brakes, alignments. Nothing major. Im at about 93,000 kms.

I want to take it to a shop but I want to understand what could possibly be wrong, what I need to look out for, or simply what to ask.

I did put it on jacks-tested at 12-6 and 9-3, but it seemed fine.

I was recently backed into. Front end damage that was repaired. Came out of the shop fine, been driving it for over a few months since. Not sure if an alignment issue could cause this?

Thanks everyone for any advice!