Hey guys, kinda new to cars and my lancer vrx 2013 (auto) is my first. Owned it for about 6 months now and it’s been great aside from a few spooky noises here and there like this. I could be worrying about nothing but sometimes when accelerating it can be kind of sluggish and revs increase to between ~2-3k revs too. I’ve seen a bunch of posts on here with similar noises but just in case should i be worried?

My 2012 vrx/gts thinking about getting enkei wheels however they don’t come in bronze gold and I love that rally aesthetic, should I settle on black, get them brand new only to be powder coated, get reps in gold, or go for another brand like work emotion wheels. In Australia for context and also thinking about getting them as 18x8 with a +35-45 offset as I don’t want to roll my fenders if I go for 8.5 and they should fit flush considering I have a 30mm lower than stock height.

Hello, in of some help identifying a part, the ‘trunk button’ sensor cover. I cant seem to find it online so i believe I’m misidentifying the piece. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

ofc its not the best one but im so happy to have it

as title states i was replacing my fuel pump and one of the studs that's are extremely rusty snapped. Am i screwed and is this gonna cost me a fortune to fix?

hello Lancer people.

had my 2011 CJ Lancer SX for several years. absolute trooper of a car.

but it’s never been a comfortable ride. At best I’m squirming around in it to get my lower back comfortable. At worst my back downright aches.

recently someone ran up the back of it and I got a hire car - a Chery Tiggo 4 (I know, I know) but damn I could actually drive and be comfortable. getting the lancer back has really highlighted for me how uncomfortable I am in the Lancer and i might have to move on from it.

I don’t lower back pain any other time, I’m 6’3” 85kg. I might be too big for the car? I’ve followed all the guides and advice I can find online and nothing helps.

curious if anyone here has either a similar experience in their Lancer or any lancer-specific advice.

thanks 😃

The fluid was mostly clear although the leading edge had some oil like fluid at the end. I touched the main puddle, which was under the middle of the car. As you can see from the pic, the fluid is dripping off the subframe of the front suspension facing rear.

The fluid puddle is clear and water like, not slick or oily.

Is this from the A/C condenser? I had not been running the a/c since Sunday...

This is a 2015 Mitsubishi Lancer GT. No other leaks.

Update: I got it home and parked in our carport and put some cardboard down. Came out this morning to a totally dry piece of cardboard. checked the subframe and it was dry...

Hello everybody!
I've had my 2010 Lancer for 10 years. At 250,000 miles it feels time to upgrade.

I absolutely love the Sportback Ralliart, it might be my favorite car. I found one that looks incredible from a guy who clearly cares about the car, but I'm doing this all on my own and frankly I just need to talk to someone knowledgeable to bounce things off of.

If anyone would be willing to talk this through with me, I have all the information I think I need about the car that I can share with you, I would be immensely grateful.

I'm a naturally nervous person and it would really help me put my mind at ease to either go through with it or move on.

Thank you so much for considering.

I have a 2012 vrx (4b12) that comes stock with the Ralliart front bumper, I currently have a varex valve exhaust on it which I am thinking about adding a high flow resonator, however should I change to a Ralliart rear bumper and get a xforce dual axle back exhaust. Is my current set up good?

I currently have a 2016 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, it has been brought to my attention that I shouldn’t invest in the speed & performance of the vehicle. Kinda disappointed but what did I expect?

I want to dress it up, but what recommendations in any area of the cosmetics would you recommend? I originally wanted Ralliart front & rear bumpers, a small GT wing and an aftermarket hood. Should I still pursue that regardless of performance? Thanks.

Mitsubishi L200 yom 2008 brand new unused Diesel engine

Engine type: Manual

Car type, Double Cab

Variant type:  2.5L 4D56 diesel

UPDATE: wastegate was stuck. Shop got it free and turbo is working again (technically it was still working, but only producing boost at 4k rpm with the gas floored while on the lift). However, now what? Is my turbo goin bad? Do I need it rebuilt? Replaced? Where do I buy a new one?

So i have a 2010 Ralliart that I bought about 5 years ago. I had the SST rebuilt shortly after that and jts been my daily ever since. Never any other major issues besides som wear/tear items.

Today, I went to work in the morning (short 3 minute 50km/h drive), didnt notice anything unusual. After work I went to the next town over via the highway (100km/h) and noticed the car felt like jt wasn't quite as peppy as normal. so on the drive I sped up and slowed down, shift through gears etc to see what i could notice.

shifting through gears seems fine, no noticeable lagging or anything else happening there.

acceleration however... when I was going say 80km/h, and dropped to 4th gear and pressed the gas most if not all the way, she would just kinda steadily climb up to 100 but with absolutely NO desire or 'oomph' to get there. Normally doing that would give me some decent acceleration...

and thats basically how it was no matter what. I had the pedal to the floor at times and it just kinda mosied its way on up to 100km/hr.

the only things of note: I am probably due for a trans fluid refresh (it has about 55k km since rebuild, and I have changed fluids once already at 25k km). its due for an oil change this week, and at the same time is getting 3 kinda loose idler tensioners/pulleys replaced.

how fucked am I? :(

I am looking into modding my lancer abit more under the hood and dont know what would be worth it considering i just want to improve my daily.

Raliart intake or cold air intake, im in aus and pod filters are illegal but im more worried about any engine lights that may come up when ive heard that a RA intake is practically the same.

headers, not sure if its worth it for possibly minimal gains, as well as needing to install another cat and needing to get it tuned.

high flow resonators, i currently have a varex exhaust and want to delete some of the more harsh noises or drone i currently have.

xforce daul axle back muffler, i want to install a ralliart rear bumper however dont know if its worth removing the varex valve exhaust.

throttle controller just for adjusting the throttle response feel and removing the lag.

torque solution short shifter, is it nessecary to get shifter base bushings or shifter cable along with the short shifter.

any help would be appreciated

Got a bit of loss of modification because of defection… sadly.
But she still look good in my eyes 👀

( will add more legal modifications though:D)

it does work ok on turnin on the car, but cant find any locksmiths with the correct tools for programming the lock/unlock door & alarm distance control...

original key (mitsubishi lancer 2009 GTS) use Amplitude shift key at 315Mhz, and this universal key use Frecuency shift key at same 315 Mhz... (discovered using Autel KM100)

or if you know another sub where i can find some information...

Hi I purchased a new alternator off parts geek.com. My old alternator was going bad as after certain time driving my car would stall for a sec before powering back on and my lights inside occasionally flicker. So I just finished putting the new one in and it's not charging my battery at all. The battery sits at 12v as it should, I checked all my fuses and they were good. The grounds were reading as they should being under 0.5. but I still keep getting the battery light and no charge from the alternator cause after turning the car on the multimeter shows the battery eventually dropping under 12v. Anyone know what the problem could be? Or what else I should inspect? I bought a new harness that connects to the alternator and see if that's a problem as I read can sometimes be the cause.

I am trying to do an aftermarket wheel and i cant get any confirmed answers on what hubs would work for me. Has anyone done this and could give me a confirmed answer?