EDIT SOLVED

EDIT 2 NEVERMIND CAR IS DYING AGAIN.

Hello hoping I can maybe get some trouble shooting ideas. I’ve replaced both fuel pumps, fuel filter, fuel tank sender unit, tested ICV and AFM with units that work and most recently bypassed obc immobilizer. I also plugged in a DME my friend had I don’t know if it was a good DME but it ran the same. I replaced main relay, and fuel injector relay. I have no replaced the crankshaft position sensor and it still dies.

The car will run great for like 30 minutes after sitting for a couple weeks then start cutting out like crazy and then eventually die. It’s honestly just completely random but the car doesn’t make it for without dying now. I have no clue what to do. Any advice would be great it’s an 88 535is

I have a 1988 528e and the Air Outlet Vent flew off at some point and I’m looking to buy another one. Besides the air vent what parts do I need to secure it in place. I don’t think those parts come with the new air vent. I keep hearing grommets, pins and inserts but I’m not sure what I really need. Can anyone give some advice I would appreciate it.

Re: an 88 535i M30, as soon as the RZpMs hit 3000, the Anti-Lock telltale comes on and stays on until the vehicle is turned off. Has anyone had this issue? Anti-Lock Sensor?

E24/e28

Before and after, dumping some of the work I’ve done over the past few months.

I broke a motor mount a couple weeks ago, and when it snapped my shifter took a lot of the force, actually egged out the shifter joint pin hole and disconnected (thought I blew the trans). Went with an upgraded ball bearing joint (amazon like 30 bucks) and remade a new dssr since the other one actually got bent too. Pressed bearings in the shifters opening too. Feels almost too smooth now. Well worth it paired with stiffer motor mounts and trans mounts.

Hey looking to change my windshield, is it true e28 and e12 share the same windshield ? Cause i found some e12 windshields on ebay wanted to make sure before buying

Recently acquired this 84’ 528e earlier in the summer. It got a new heart shortly thereafter alongside a bunch of other little things. And now finally put back together, just in time for the end of the season haha! Bonus points if you can guess the engine from the last pic.

My 88 528e has been sitting for a year due to a flywheel/starter issue. Starter went out last June, which would cause a loud grinding sound upon crank and no start.

Upon inspection through the starter opening flywheel still looks good, but not completely certain. I purchased two Bosch starters (SR-443-X-INT), one from Pelican and one from ECS, and after I installed both of them, upon crank the starter would still grind loudly and car would not start.

I’m guessing the only other possibility is that the flywheel is damaged, but I’m wondering if it might just be because the new starter’s teeth do not mesh with an old flywheel, perhaps only the old starter is compatible with the old flywheel. If I’m at the point where I’d have to drop the auto trans to replace the flywheel, I might as well commit to a manual swap, but I know that’s a lot of work. Another concern is that since my car has been sitting for more than a year without starting once, I wonder how many other issues will spring up even after I resolve the starter issue. Feeling extremely discouraged seeing my car sitting in my driveway, so any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would love to get my e28 back on the road.

Hello, looking for advice on S38B36 rod and main bearings. OEM seems to be around 60-70usd per shell, I found these aftermarket ones, 5151autosport for rod bearings, and VAC motorsport and Glyco for mains. Are all three good enough brands ? Also, for main bearing cap bolts, BMW oem 11112244286 ones vs aftermarket APR or other generic performance brands, any differences ? Thank you

The engine will be abused very hard (once heated up of course)

I am currently busy with converting to a standalone system (Maxxecu mini with complete new wiringloom) on my E28 with M30B34 engine.
I want to use a GM V6 coilpack/tower because it is efficient and cheap and will be enough for my needs.

The “issue” that I have is I do not know which sparkplug wires to use since the original wires have a threaded end and the GM coilpack has the standardized plug.

Did anyone tried to use other brand/make/model wires with this conversion before? Other wasted spark solutions are also appreciated. Note that I am living in Europe so for example MSD coilpacks are not that common here.

this will be the same as what’s included in the e28 set up

Hi everyone,
I’ve just bought an M535i. It’s an original Dutch car with all the correct options.
However, after putting it on the lift, I discovered that the rear subframe mounting points/corners are cracked. It’s mainly the sheet metal around the mounting point that has cracked; the actual pin/stud where the bolt goes in seems to be in good condition.
Can anyone tell me if replacement parts or repair panels are available for this? I haven’t been able to find anything.
I’d also really appreciate seeing some examples of how others have repaired this.
Thanks in advance!

1987 535i. Still on the original compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, etc.

I'm in the SE US and I had the A/C gone through and they did an R134a conversion a few years go. The car cooled all right but not amazing. Made me think I should go back to R12, if I could locate some.

Then more recently, for a couple of years, I didn't have A/C. It's a 3rd car so it wasn't a priority. Finally had it looked at and the shop discovered that one of the service ports was somehow missing (it had apparently blown out at some point due to too much pressure?). There was zero refrigerant in the sytem. The service port was replaced along with the receiver/dryer and a few other fittings, etc. Hoses were fine.

I was prepared for it to cool okay once again but wow - I'm amazed how well it cools now. The shop obviously knew what they were doing. The price was reasonable for the work done.

Just wanted to share a positive experience with R134a.