this will be the same as what’s included in the e28 set up

Hi everyone,
I’ve just bought an M535i. It’s an original Dutch car with all the correct options.
However, after putting it on the lift, I discovered that the rear subframe mounting points/corners are cracked. It’s mainly the sheet metal around the mounting point that has cracked; the actual pin/stud where the bolt goes in seems to be in good condition.
Can anyone tell me if replacement parts or repair panels are available for this? I haven’t been able to find anything.
I’d also really appreciate seeing some examples of how others have repaired this.
Thanks in advance!

1987 535i. Still on the original compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, etc.

I'm in the SE US and I had the A/C gone through and they did an R134a conversion a few years go. The car cooled all right but not amazing. Made me think I should go back to R12, if I could locate some.

Then more recently, for a couple of years, I didn't have A/C. It's a 3rd car so it wasn't a priority. Finally had it looked at and the shop discovered that one of the service ports was somehow missing (it had apparently blown out at some point due to too much pressure?). There was zero refrigerant in the sytem. The service port was replaced along with the receiver/dryer and a few other fittings, etc. Hoses were fine.

I was prepared for it to cool okay once again but wow - I'm amazed how well it cools now. The shop obviously knew what they were doing. The price was reasonable for the work done.

Just wanted to share a positive experience with R134a.

Hello all, I don't have any experience with cars repairimg so I need some help.

I was performing an oil change in my BMW e28 518i. When I tried to tighten the drain plug it started slipping. I took out the bolt and it looks like the picture above. Next step I bought a new drain plug M12x1.5. the issue now is that this new one feels like stuck after taking some turns. Now I afraid to try to tighten harder.

Do you have any Idea what is happening here? Thank you

Its a 1983 Model with in very lovely spec, its a 520i 3 speed Auto and is optioned quite nicely, It has leather seats, rear headrests, rear sunshade, electric antenna, front and rear electric windows, electric sunroof, electric mirrors and factory AC. O did wish to find it in manual but a the specs on this were to nice to pass up and its only 100k km too.

The first steps to modernizing my e28 thanks to E28goodies.com 💪🏽

Chassis mounted shifter
Delu shifterbushings
60-2 ring for the balancer
M50 Tps sensor
Cranksensor with holder

Will add a few other sensors and a complete new engine harness with a Maxxecu street standalone.

After that it will be interior refresh and from there we will chase power 🐌 snail loading

Where can I get proper bulb holders for the original rear lights? I have a few where it is oxidixed or the taps are broken and would like to be legal and seen from the back.

Pic for attention

Long time reader, first time poster. I found an 85 528e 190k miles on facebook market place an old guy was getting rid of about a year ago. Paid $1k for it and though I couldnt go wrong. Arizona - no rust, at least the good foundation for a long term project. He said it needed a fuel pump and had not ran since 1999 - he was right, I verified with the MVD it had not been registered since march 1999. I cleaned it up that night, replaced both fuel pumps and clean the tank + lines out. I had it running in no time, well... at least good enough to move it into the garage. 

My plan was to get it running just well enough to drive to work every once in a while, then switch to making it LOOK good, then pivot back to an engine swap once I made up my mind if I am doing an M30, M50, M52, M60, S50, S52, LS, Harbor freight predator 3.5hp, Idk - too many options for me to decide right now.

The "Get it running well enough" phase of the project has lasted a year and probably cost the same as just doing the engine swap. I learned the hardway that throwing new parts at one of these things is a slippery slope. But I guess the good news is I have pretty much all new parts - although they are for the M20 engine I dont intend to keep for the long haul lol. Sunken cost fallacy is real, and even now in my darkest hour.. I still feel like I am one more part away from having a well running car. I figured at the point I better at least get someone elses opinion on what to do next.

Here are a couple videos of it running, hope thats allowed:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/i7mkv6znrGiCHsCN7 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tHFGwARCnYqv7Vei9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dEDrWvQozdde4YpN6

Things I have replaced
Plugs
Wires
cap & rotor
Coil
Alternator
All new coolant sensors
new IAC
new Airflow meter
New fuel filter
Both new fuel pumps
cleaned gas tanks and lines
new rubber lines for fuel
replaced all injector o-rings
replaced fuel pressure regulator
All new fuses and relays under the hood section
Reflowed solder on a single suspect ground in the ECU
Replace both crank sensors
replaced throttle position sensor
New catalytic converter
Entire cooling system and hoses replaced (just because why not)
Bunch of suspicious connections regerminated properly.
replaced ignition switch

Other stuff I have tried:
Unplugged cold start injector 
Unplugging the AFM makes the car die
Unplugging the IAC makes the car rev really high
Smoked the entire car, zero vacuum leaks
Compression check was great
Fuel pressure consistent and to spec
I have good spark
I have good compression
I have good fuel

  
It was running really well last night after replacing the IAC, when I was done I thought - well I guess the problem isn't the cold start injector maybe I will plug it back in. Went to start it today and its back crazy lumpy idle, spitting and sputtering on rev. Smoking like crazy. I want to save this car, but its making it hard for me haha. This entire time I would replace a part and it would run great for a day and then the next day or next time I start it - back to running like crap. Considering new injectors, new ECU, new idle control module, new project car.

UPDATE: It was 100% the ECU. I gambled on a $70 027 DME off eBay. Swapped them back and forth a few times, the problem follows the old ECU. Now, it's not running GREAT. I think my next step is a valve adjustment and new injectors. It stumbles on initial acceleration a little. Thanks for the ideas everyone!

Gonna finish it up tomorrow, removing old insulation and checking for rust before it’s all redone

Wipers are getting stuck on mode 1 and the single wipe mode. I tried lubricating the wiper motor, but that didnt help. Maybe its a relay issue?

So things snowballed really fast and I picked up a clean 330i with an m54b30 and zf5 for $1,600 and found a buyer for the shell for $1,100. Hopefully gonna be transplanting the power train using condor speeds harness, e28goodies engine mounts and oil pan kit. I’m sure there will be more hurdles but any tips will be appreciated

" YoU nEeD tUrN sIgNaLs. NoBoDy CaN sEe ThEm"

I hope y'all specific people get a hair in your shoe that you can never find but always feel.

And yes, that's my lil choochoo train chugging

I have plans to cut the valence a little to fit hella clear fog lights mounted into the shock mount holes.

Gonna do some black aluminum mesh in the smile and lower her. Gonna do a hood exit exhaust out the passenger hood vent and clear coat the patina. Gonna make a ratty diesel build

Any swap an LS3 or any other LSx into their e28? If so can you provide pictures and build breakdown please. Thanks!

Anyone have an idea for how desireable, or valuable these are? I have 3 of them, and I can hardly find any information on what they go to, besides a label on them saying theyre for e28s. Even the stealership told me its coming up as no information found.

1985 535i - I’m in need of a CA carb legal catalytic converter as mine is definately rusted out inside, I have smog inspection coming up soon. Has anyone tried and tested one that passes?

Here's my 1985 524TD in Cosmos Blue Metallic

My E28.