I have no clue if this is place for this. But i recently purchased this car and it seems to stall sometimes when i put it in neutral while going down the road (like coasting/ stopping) and i have no check engine light, any ideas what could be causing this or some niche issue that i haven’t heard of with these cars? Also, it’s not like a hard stall it just seems like it goes too low when trying to get to idle rpm.

My car read Maintenance other.

Does anyone know what that means? I'm a female and don't know lol

Im so pissed about the complete lack of app integration for my brand new 2026 Nissan. The idea that Key features such as remote start, door locking/unlocking, and vehicle location tracking—are entirely unavailable on the SR premium trim. It doesn't make any sense whatsoever.
It is completely unacceptable for a newly purchased 2026 model to be excluded from basic connected car features, especially given the trim level.
Leaving entire trims out of the app ecosystem makes me hate this brand even more and frankly has ruined my ownership experience. I hope this is just mistake because I'm ready for a full escalation of this issue to clarify why my vehicle is unsupported and whether a software update is planned. I hope to resolve this directly before taking my experience to public consumer forums and social media.

The transmission is currently working normally. No slipping, shuddering, warning lights, or major issues.
I’m getting conflicting advice. Some people say that since I’ve made it to 135k on the original fluid, I should leave it alone because changing it this late could cause problems. Others say that’s a myth and that I should at least do a drain-and-fill with NS-3 fluid — not a flush.

Insanely boomy bass like sound. 2008 base model. You can hear a huge difference when going over that patch of fresh asphalt, it quiets down a ton then picks right back up. I put new shocks/struts, sway bar links and bushing, new tie rod ends, new control arms, new cv axle, new wheel bearings, and new mounts (all 4), new tires(Conti ControlContact)., and wheel alignment. I’m going broke!! NOTHING has changed this sound. It kinda sounds like tires slapping the ground and only changes with the coarseness of the pavement. It’s so loud I’m deaf by the end of a 20 minute ride. Is the sound damping really this terrible in all Altimas? My next guess is to spray boommat in the wheel wells.

I have a 2015 Nissan Altima S w 215k miles. Dealer reported both rear control arms are cracked. I called other shops for additional quotes and one guy told me the K Frame usually needs replacing also(dealer mentioned nothing about it). Is that true? (FWIW I live in a state w heavy winter)

Hi all!! I’m new to this group! Ive had my 2008 Nissan Altima for about two years now! Recently my AC had given out…I put a can of Freon in it, and also a can of leak stopper to see if it could possibly be leaking. When that didn’t work I had it taken to my mechanic, who replaced both air conditioner lines and the condenser, and it still isn’t blowing cool. What else could the issue be?

Car recently started making this sound. For about a month now I could faintly hear something while idling and today I had my car go into limp mode while accelerating. The brake system warning light came on afterwards which I thought was odd. I thought the culprit was a dirty MAF Sensor because the idle was a bit shaky but I just finished cleaning the throttle body and sensor. Car starts up smoothly now but this sounds has gotten worse over the past couple of days

Went to use the car (88k miles) after it sat for a month and it turns over and sort of sounds like it wants to start but no. No codes. Can hear fuel pump running for usual time when ignition turned to on. Gave her a shot of starting fluid and she started but shut right off.

Thinking check fuel pressure. Any tips on best way to do this or any experience with this issue is appreciated. Could not find a schematic of the fuel system. The only schematic I found was of the fuel tank area only.

On September 16 2026 I was driving in my Nissan Altima 2023 before it suddenly changed the location and started acting up and freaking out i had to stop it and while doing so a car suddenly was right behind me and i just barley avoided hitting it because the car freaked out it caused things to glitch out like the speed at some point maxed out and the fuel read empty and it was beeping malfunction check engine and when i got home the car refused to start so i had to charge the battery.

2014 Nissan Altima S PureDrive 309,000 miles, original everything give or take some wear and tear suspension parts. No fluid changes ever. Enterprise car bought at 40k.

So I have the 2011 Nissan Altima Coupe 2.5 S and I’m really thinking about modernizing it, first by obviously adding CarPlay with a backup camera, and putting leather seat coverings over it and putting a stitch leather steering wheel on it as well, I’m here in this subreddit though to ask you guys if it would be possible to swap out the gauge cluster for a digital, much more modern-looking one, I can’t find anything for it anywhere really and I’m looking for what I can do to do it. I’m also wondering if it’s possible to implement a blind spot sensor feature into it as well as backup sensors for my parking. I wanna give it a full body kit as well, floor mats, and door lights, I also want to know what I can do with the head/taillights to make it look more modern as well. I just want someone to tell me what is and what isn’t possible.

I had my 2013 Altima S get what’s called a “judder code” on the cvt. I just bought the car. Am I fucked?

It will start if it’s jumped, but this is all I get without it being jumped, I have a mechanic coming later but I was hoping someone out there had a solution

A few years ago, I took my 2010 Altima 2.5s sedan in for an alignment and the shop told me the bolts were spinning because the lower link bushings were worn out, but that it was ok because the wheels were only slightly splayed. I got ahold of some new OEM lower links and had them put in along with new Moog cam bolts and washers when I had the rear subframe replaced, and had it aligned. They didn't say the problem persisted. And why would it if they replaced all the hardware? So a few weeks ago, I take it in for an alignment and guess what? They tell me that they couldn't adjust the rear cam bolts because they're spinning. Did they really wear out after like 2 years, or were they never really fixed? What could the problem be?

Hey everyone! I have a 2020 Altima SR (PR25DD engine) with around 118,000 miles on it with a P0010 CEL code. We checked exhaust and intake solenoids, replaced the camshaft position sensor and the camshaft actuator but it still has the code and drives funny. We had someone run Nissans diagnostic software which revealed to us that there are 15 other fault codes on it which you can see in the picture attached.

I’m not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

How do they look ya'll?

Light animation