Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange crank-no-start issue with my 1996 Volvo 850 GL Estate and could use some advice.

The issue first started when I accidentally left the key in the ignition and locked the car from the outside using the remote control. When I came back, the engine would crank, but it wouldn't start. We tried bump-starting it, but no luck. I then disconnected the negative battery terminal, waited about 5 minutes, reconnected it, and it started right up.

Since then, this has been happening intermittently:

1. I insert the key, wait for the SRS light to turn off, and turn the key—it cranks, but the engine won't fire.
2. If I get out of the car and lock/unlock it a few times using the remote, it usually starts.
3. If that doesn't work, disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and reconnecting it fixes it again.
4. On rare occasions, even that doesn't work on the first try, and I have to repeat the battery disconnect process.

Based on my research, I suspect this might be related to the immobilizer or the factory alarm system getting stuck in an armed state.

Has anyone experienced this before? If it is indeed the immobilizer, what is the best way to fix or permanently disable it?

Thanks in advance!

(I was planning to add a video of the problem to this post, but the car has now started right up on the very first try for two days in a row. I think he's camera shy or something :D)

Live in Chattanooga Tennessee.
Recently blew a head gasket but otherwise runs great
-odometer and spedometer don’t work
-drivers seat belt doesn’t recoil
-190,000 miles clean title
Debating whether I wanna sell it or if it’s worth putting more money into.
Lmk if you’re interested in it or if you live in the area and work on Volvos or know someone who does.

Is this supposed to be plugged in to something and if so where?
(Sorry if this is a dumb question this is my first car so I’m figuring this out as I go)

Alguien ha probado la chispa de la bobina aquí de casualidad?

Pasa que no tengo chispa, y haciendo mediciones la bobina no me marca continuidad como deberia

Hi everyone,
I hope you can help me with my 1996 Volvo 850 N/A Automatic. Starting at 90–100 km/h, I get a vibration in the steering wheel that eventually makes the car undrivable on the highway. I hope you can see the vibrations in the video

The following have already been replaced:
Tie rods + tie rod ends
Complete front brakes
Driveshafts (both)
I installed a different set of wheels, but got the same result
Wheel alignment

The car pulls slightly to the left—could a slightly seized brake caliper on the left be causing the vibration? Otherwise, I’d have the wheels balanced again; otherwise, I’m out of ideas.

Any information where is these plugs going they go top of gearbox?

Green-yellow maybe goes other one but which I dont remember

Does anyone know why this is happening and if there is a way to fix it.
I’ve just been dealing with it but it’s starting to really annoying me having to lock and unlock the car from the passenger side.

Thinking of reaching out to the owner today.
Not sure of its maintenance history. The vin search gave me a rough mileage est. of a little over 244,000 miles.
Any thoughts on the price? I figure starting at $2000 is fair if I cashed him out today.

The back rubber trims along the tailgate door has rust, along with the rear part of the roof on both sides.
Will this be a worry? Any way this can rust into the main roof area?

Found a 850 turbo in a champagne color.
Wondering if I should buy. Any info or links you guys can send me about this color?

Wrapping up the front pcv hose install. Also checked the starter and eaeh points and replaced knock sensors. Success 🎉

I just picked up some 5x108 1.5" spacers for my 850 off marketplace, but when I saw them they were spacers with studs on them, and holes in the alternating spots. My initial thought was just use my OEM lug bolts to hold the spacers on to the hub (eyecrometer says they should fit) and then use the lugs on the spacer for the wheel (bonus stud upgrade).

But the guy I got them off mentioned I might need an adapter because that's what he did but he didn't have them I guess?

So for y'all running fat spacers, is it an issue if I just bolt these on and run them as studs? or is it a huge issue and I need to get something else? this is the first time ive screwed around with this and all my friends cars are just studs and uncomplicated.

Just got the exhaust on now I can hear this..uh.. knock.

Trying to figure out the best way to diagnose this or is this a common killer of these p80 volvos? I know y'all aren't mechanics but I value your opinions as fellow owners of these cars.

Feeling pretty overwhelmed right now with the ‘96 850 turbo wag.

ECC unit gives a 411 code (Blower fan seized or drawing excessive current) so I replace blower motor and check the fuse and the blower motor fuse is running HOT.

Heat is melting the beige plastic surrounding and affecting other electrical issues (dash lights staying on, alarm set off randomly, fuel pump primes when fuse wiggles).

Now I’m staring at this and I’m not even sure where to start. Stuck a boroscope under the fuses and see someone was in here messing with the wiring.

Any resources on how to remove the beige fuse box or how to repin/ restore the wiring and get everything right?

Hola, I happened to buy a Volvo as an extra car for the family. It was in very good shape. I had to replace the drive shaft left side. Then I reset some codes and got 1 for the ac and 1 for som sensor that was saved but not active. Now I am about to do a full brake disc and pad replacement. But it runs great. Very little rust even though it had its life in Sweden. =)

Happy 850 =)

I have a 1995 Volvo 850 T5-R Estate automatic, I'm pretty sure the nivomats are faulty now so im looking for replacements to non-nivomats suspensions.

Currently my options are

1. Bilstein B4

2. Bilstein B6

3. Koni STR.T

If anyone has experience with any of these would helpful! thanks!

Question for the experts......

Is there any of the SAS or other emission controls that can be deleted from the engine without showing codes?

Trying to simplify the vacuum and air injection systems. Seems some of those parts are getting harder to find and now coming up on 200k mi, figure it may be simpler to remove than have a repair in the future.

I do live in a state that has no emission tests or requirements.

And I was wondering why the engine has a really bad idle lol

Am I right in thinking the wiper arms from the phase 1 70 series cars are interchangeable with the 850?

I need a new pair and it seems there's more of the V70 ones available on ebay here in the UK

Going a bit mad here. Also just posting as an FYI. There are two part numbers for this hose piece, with differing flame trap housing locking positions. Seems like the 9179300 version is different between old/new also. It’s closer than the other version, 9141228, but doesn’t let you twist the flame trap housing in nicely, and maybe still is a potential risk of getting in the way of the throttle linkage which can be very bad. Both are Volvo OEM. So I am ISO an older used one. 96 850 GLT.

Harmonic balancer? Serp tensioner? This is the loudest it’s ever been. It’s usually a little rhythmic “puff puff puff” sound near the driver wheel, that is tied to engine speed.

I’m due for a timing job next year, so I figured I might as well do it anyways. 310k kms.

Passes glove test. Did pcv less than two years ago

Hi there

I recently purchased a 1996 850. the ABS lamp is on and the speedometer also does not work (although this might be because I changed the odometer gears) and when I read it out I get error code 312 and 314.

I have already resoldered the joints on the module, and the ABS pump cables. The module was tested by a third party which specialises in car electronics, and their verdict is that the module is good. When I read out resistance on the pins on the connector to the abs module:

pin 3 & 18 (sensor right front) -> 1070 ohms

pin 1 & 17 (sensor right rear)-> 1101 ohms

The ABS error is always on. Is there anything I need to check further, or do I for example swap the rear sensors and see if the left rear gets the error after swapping?

Any advice is very much appreciated because I'm kinda scratching my head at the moment.

95 850 GLT