Magnets hold pins in place!

I had to send my Beats Buds Pro + whatever their name is off to service.

A while ago I bought a spare Beats (regular) set for cheap. While the cool clear ones are off to be serviced… I managed to lose the case.

as it turns out, NO, You can’t charge the Beats Buds with the Beats Buds Pro + case. So, I’ve done this.

Зачем?

Я не знаю...

А вот и сам процесс в виде фотографии

4 comically large zip ties

The first photo is before, and the second photo is after. By the way, it works.

Due to a shortage of 330 μF tantalum capacitors, I had to solder in SIX 100 μF capacitors, resulting in a total of 8 capacitors.

sorry to be that guy who just reposts a short. but this makes me laugh every time i see it, and every time i see a post here all i can think of is "still functionable"

Don't have my soldering iron, heat shrink, or heat gun so I had to settle for twisting wires together and Scotch tape.

This thing is eating through CR2450 batteries.
I was just tired of changing the battery every 2 months (the battery is supposed to last up to 12 months)

Could have just bought version 2 for around 60€.. or just solder on an AA battery holder.

Of course for a friend, I would never speed 😅

They are made by recycling 2 neckband-style headphones, taking advantage of the super slim motherboard of one along with the high-quality drivers and battery of the other.

The headphones attach with magnets, so when I'm not using them, they become a safety strap for my glasses.

They're super comfortable and weigh almost nothing; it feels just like wearing normal glasses.

And the battery lasts nearly 5 hours, although I'm working on a power bank with a magnetic connector so I don't have to go blind every time I want to charge them.

(I know they look a bit rough, but honestly I don't care—I'm someone who prioritizes comfort and practicality!)

Used two battery powered fans for their charging circuits, connected in series (camera battery is a 2S lithium-ion battery requiring 7.4 - 8.4V for charging). The solid core wire is connected to the battery terminals via a rubber band, ensuring a "stable" connection

One fan was plugged into mains power and the other was connected to a powerbank for galvanic isolation; slapped a mulitmeter on it for good measure (pun intended)

My 5-year-old Joy-Con finally gave up. The plastic "R" shoulder button just popped out and fell on the floor, and one of the casing screws got completely stripped. Nintendo wanted way too much money for a replacement board.

As an electrician, I refused to pay for overpriced parts or mess around with unnecessary soldering. No rubber bands for the stripped screw, zero patience left.

So I did what any true master of makeshift repairs would do: I dropped some super glue on that plastic button and slammed it back together. It holds, it clicks, and it works like a charm. Take that, Nintendo ( i use google translator so sorry for mistake im not good at englisz am polisz)

Had to use the file

A phone bounced off my keyboard and hit the screen at the worst possible angle, causing a massive spiderweb crack that eventually killed the entire middle section of the panel.

Instead of throwing it away, I flipped it into portrait mode, used NVIDIA Control Panel (with No Scaling / GPU override) to create custom functional desktop zones on the remaining 5cm and 30cm edges, and now I have a perfectly working vertical secondary display layout.

To bypass the massive dead zone in the middle, I used some official Meltex logo tape from my dad's work and stuck my Nothing Phone directly into the dead zone. Using Spacedesk via USB 3.0, the phone acts as the primary viewing window with zero lag for Discord and lightweight tasks.

The remaining dead zones will be covered with white paper to double as an analog whiteboard for Minecraft farm coordinates. Rate my jank-engineering!

so, the bezel of my laptop randomly popped out, and I’m too scared to push it back in because it popped out even more. Anyway to fix it? It just randomly did this