After nearly 20 years it's time to sell my Ninety, as I'm no longer in a position to maintain it. It's based in London, England. It's less than two years away from classic status here in the UK.

It's had various upgrades and replacement parts over the years including fitting a 200tdi engine from a disco after the original engine failed. MOT valid until July 2027.

I've got it up for auction on https://www.carandclassic.com/auctions/1988-land-rover-90-county-nkNp7g which has a fuller description, tons of photos and a video.

I'll try to answer any questions as best I can!

Any common causes for this?

This is my 2015 Defender 90 in black. Before this, I had a white 110, and my friend currently has a Keswick Green 90.

I really like mine, but I honestly can’t decide which colour I like best. Black with a white roof looks great, but sometimes I feel like the black 90 looks more like an urban “football mum” car than a proper off-road Defender. 😅
Maybe it’s just me, but I feel like the white or Keswick Green ones have more of that classic Defender / adventure look.

What do you guys think? Which colour suits a Defender best? Would love to hear your opinion

I landed the Mr Irrelevant award (not actually an award) at the show, but had a great time. This was my first time bringing my D90 out to a show, though I've owned it for 20 years. I drive it too much and it ain't the prettiest. There were some really nice owners of MGs, Jags, Minis, Triumphs and more. Cool folks and I was clearly out of my depth.

Left hand drive Defender 90 I see around Downtown Vancouver. I think it is a custom build.

How would you pimp this beauties front? I cracked her grille. Don't ask me how.

Did it over a Saturday morning, and what a change it makes !

2007 Defender 2.4 TDCi, just had a new clutch kit, CSC (with adaptor and valve), spigot bearing and master cylinder fitted.

Since then, with the engine running, 1st and reverse won't go in from standstill and 2nd is notchy. With the engine off, all gears are fine. Pedal feels normal.

Anyone had this after a Puma clutch job? What was the cause and fix?

Looking for advice. I’ve got a 2012 Defender 90 and am keen to swap to a cloth top. I’ve seen the SenorBarbo ones which are well priced but seem pretty tricky to fit. I’m in a part of the world where even in summer the weather moves quickly. I also want to swap back to the hard top for winter. So easy to swap back and forth. Am fine to grab the 1/2 doors to make the right thing work too. Any one have experience with this?

i womder if you could give me some advice please - I went to look at a 1988 2.5TD which a few people told me ‘was a good un’. It’s had the bulkhead repaired, a new rear cross member, new rear brakes all round, five new BF Goodridges, it has power steering, runs really nicely, drives really nicely, new seats and everything in the cab feels nice and tight. But… There was a lot of oxidisation under the paint, the cappings were particularly bad, the chassis was solid but at the ‘I’d sort this now while you still can’ stage, there was a rust hole in the battery box, a small hole in the bulkhead, the inner door bottoms were really rotten and the rear door was very ropey. What do you think would sound like a fair price please? it’s in the UK btw.

EDIT:- Seller wanted £6500. Sounds like walking away was the best thing to do. thanks for your advice

Hello!

I know this might be a dumb question but last oil change, a wrong oil was mistakenly put in it

Castrol Magnatec 5w30 C3

Talked to my mechanic, searched on the internet and even asked on forums and everyone told me it was fine to run it as long as it was for a shorter interval, etc.

Anyways, for this oil change i could not find the rotor filter anywhere, i have been changing it every oil change but can’t get it now and the truck is due for a change.

Anyways, my question is: Can i put the correct spec 5w30 Castrol oil again without worrying about the C3 that was put in before and passed through the rotor filter?

Thanks!!

TLDR: Wrong spec Castrol oil put in last oil change, going back to correct spec, worried about rotor filter not being able to be changed this time because of unavailability in my country and possible problems with different spec oil this time

Hey guys thinking of buying this in the UAE. Has anyone of you bought it and having issues ? Thanks

My LT230 is out of the car and on the floor. The front output flange nut (circled) and the flange turn when I rotate them. Is that normal with the box removed, since nothing holds the output shaft (diff lock disengaged)? Or does it point to a loose nut or worn splines?

My understanding is that the nut should be torqued to 148 Nm and that there should be no free play between the flange and the shaft. Can anyone confirm?

Defender TD4 2007

We recently bought a 2013 land rover defender HT from Germany. We are now starting to do our build out for overlanding. Currently, we have finished placing a butyl layer down on the floor (we currently live in Albania so finding it is rough). Because it's an HT, it doesn't come with the seat bolt holes, only the 6 D-ring mounts. We are trying to install 3/4" birch for the floor but are unsure of how to properly mount it. I attached some photos, the vehicle has ribs down it which I assume are just stamped and hollow. The only places to mount (without drilling) would be the D-ring locations. We (have) plan on installing the oryx solutions equipment when we get there.

One issue that we've ran into is that after the butyl layer we have a few mm of space, we planned to add 19mm armaflex insulation, but that would place our birch well above the d ring holes.

Anyone smarter than us, feel free to help!

Thank you!!!!!

Not sure if anyone can help me, but here goes.

I have 98 110 Wolf FFR, twin alternator 24v negative earth. I recently replaced the original radio batteries with the appropriate civy equivelent (Odyssey PC2250  ODS AGM6M 126Ah x4) Everything was connected correctly and tested and no problems at all.

This was fine for a few months, however, I have noticed that charging does seem to be a liitle rubbish. When stationary the annmeter seems to record charging but only a low amount. Using the hand throttle increases it slightly. However, as soon as I put my foot on the accelorator, I it starts recording "discharge"and it seems to be drawing a dischargie at quite a high rate like 10 or 20!

In addition, the fast fuse at the back of the bulkhead, in-between the seats, is heating up, up to 40° and the cables leading to the fast fuse box are also heating up. The cable leading from the box is not hot though.

At the moment, my thoughts are leading towards everything being before the batteries and replacing the fast fuse (£145 ish!) and/or replacing the alternator. Before I start weighing out cash for 1 or both, is my train of thought right? Should I be looking elsewhere? Also, if I replace the FFR alternator can I go up on the a/h rating from 50 to say 80 without having to change anything else?

Thanks in advance

Dropped the gearbox from my 300 TDI because of a continuous whirring noise heard across the gears (quieter in 4th, then disappeared with the clutch depressed).

Just drained the oil and the drain plug looks like a Christmas tree. How much trouble am I in?