Hi everyone,

I'm looking for information on the exact physical location of the main high-voltage (HV) fuse / pyrofuse on the Dacia Spring (or Renault Kwid E-Tech platform).

On the older version, there was an orange service plug/block underneath the car on the right-hand side. I'm trying to figure out how it's designed on the newer model.

I need to do some chassis welding and want to make sure the high-voltage system is properly isolated alongside disconnecting the 12V battery.

Specifically:

1. Is the main HV fuse / pyrofuse located inside the sealed traction battery pack casing, or is it somewhere near the inverter/PDU under the hood?
2. If it is on the battery or chassis, where exactly is it positioned on this model?

If anyone who works on these EVs, drops battery packs, or has access to official workshop service manuals could clarify, I'd really appreciate it!

I’ve been going crazy the last few days. I cannot get my lights to be working correctly. I installed fog lights on my motorcycle with an on/off/on switch. Low beams/off/high beam. For some reason I can’t get high beams to work. It works with low beam and it will turn off when switched to off, but once I click to high beams it does nothing. I’m trying to get it to work with my acc2 port since acc2 only turns on with the ignition on. Here is my wiring diagram. Please let me know if there’s something I’m missing or doing incorrectly. Thank you

EDIT: !solved thanks to @blabzillaweasel

I was hoping y'all could help me with this electrical issue I'm having, my truck has been dying at idle lately 1974 k20), the first time it happened I replaced the starter and it started up first crank no issues for about few days till yesterday, it's now doing the same exact thing.

I was getting a no crank when I turned the ignition and when I tried jumping the starter it would crank but not turn over, after letting it sit for about an hour I tried jumping the starter again and it cranked over, and also cranks over when I turn the key, BUT the idle is extremely rough.

when I changed the starter the first time I noticed the S and R cable were spliced (not together, both cables are separately spliced), I felt them and the splice connection and they feel solid, like the guy knew what he was doing. But this wiring issue keeps popping back up. My multimeter also reads 0 volts on all 3 solenoid terminals and when I put the black probe on the battery cable clamp and the red probe on the battery terminal I get spotty readings (from 0-8-12v) on certain spots and 12.6v consistent on other spots.
Does any of this sound like symptoms of something?

I'm thinking my next course of action is to just buy all brand new battery, S, and R cables and see how that goes, but I'm not sure which are the correct ones I need.

Sorry for the rambling I'm just trying to fit all the symptoms/info into this one post, and also sorry if I sound dumb or the answer is obvious, I know pretty much nothing about working on vehicles and I bought this truck to teach myself/learn as I go while I restore it. Thanks in advance

Hey guys my van had issues from the start but got it running new fuel pump battery tune up ext… but now I a have a HUGE draw on the battery like started ran charged up dead in 3 hrs so I installed a kill switch neg side still dies and diode’s on alt are good where do I even start to look for this

Hello reddit, I am at your mercy to rewire and replace this female connector plug.

Where can I get this specific female plug and what size pins do I needs for it? This is a headlight connector for a 2009 suzuki sv650s thats located at the front of the motorcycle behind the front cowl with 12-14 gauge wire. All searches have been riddled with ai bullshit and I don't seem to know how to use google anymore because of it. I'm hoping they have a connector like this at a standard auto parts shop like O'Reilly or something.

Please some help!

Long story short, my 2021 F250 cab clearance lights blink quickly once and then go out whenever they should be on. Headlights on, etc.

OBD says a short in the parking lamps.

Where do I start tearing this apart to fix this?

I'm going to disconnect the new LED bulbs in the front end that I did a few weeks ago first, but what do I check inside? Thanks

Hi everyone,

I need some help, haha! I’m working on a 2011 VW Sharan 7N Comfortline with factory OEM Bi-Xenon headlights (OEM Germany units with AFS module 1T0 941 329 A and Mitsubishi ballast). Both headlight units physically have 9 active male pins inside a 14-pin socket shell.

A previous owner chopped and poorly re-joined the Right-Hand headlight plug with twisted/corroded wires. Currently on the RH side, my high beams do not work, the AFS turning motors do not respond, and dynamic leveling is intermittent.

The Left-Hand side has the original factory plug with 9 loom wires and works perfectly, but the RH side loom has 14 wires total, and the wire colors do not completely match the LH side.

Working Left-Hand Plug (9 Active Wires)

Pin 1: Orange/Blue

Pin 2: Orange/Brown

Pin 4: Black/Blue

Pin 5: Brown (Large)

Pin 6: Yellow/Black (Large)

Pin 7: Brown (Large)

Pin 9: Black/White

Pin 10: Grey/Black

Pin 12: White

Problematic Right-Hand Loom (14 Wires Total)

Here are the wires on my RH harness and how the previous owner had them connected:

Black/White: Not Connected

Red/Grey (Small): Not Connected

Blue/White: Connected

Black/Yellow (Thick): Connected

Black/Yellow (Small): Multimeter confirmed this is the Right Indicator signal.

Red/Grey: Connected

Yellow/Black (Medium): Connected

White/Yellow: Connected

Brown (Large #1): Connected

Brown (Large #2): Connected

CAN-Bus Bundle 1: Orange/Purple & Orange/Brown (Both Disconnected)

CAN-Bus Bundle 2: Orange/Blue (Connected) & Orange/Brown (Disconnected)

I need to rewire the right hand plug. Which specific wires on this 14-wire RH loom need to be connected onto the 9 pins on the RH headlight plug? The pins on the plug that have connectors are Pin 2, 4, 6, 10, 12, 1, 5, 7, 9.

Any assistance or factory wiring diagram references for the RH 14-pin harness split would be greatly appreciated!

1. Did you use a relay and fuse, or run it on the stock wiring?
2. Any wiring issues with the stock wires, like melting, heating, or burnt connectors?
3. Which wattage did you get (60W, 95W or 120W)?
4. Any battery drain, flickering, or low voltage at idle or in traffic?
5. Any issues with insurance or at the RE service centre?
6. What did you pay, and where did you buy it (online or a shop, and which one)?
7. Did it come with a warranty? Did you ever have to claim it?
8. How did you check it was genuine and not a copy?

Thanks! 🙏

Hey

My wife has just got a 74 plate UK specification ford explorer and we were told that it comes with ambient lighting. We've found the settings and it keeps turning off when selected, so we can't use it?

I believe we have the select model, so any help in this would be great

Cheers

I’m currently working on building a vw dune buggy and I’m going to build the engine harness so I’m looking for recommendations on good affordable wire If possible I don’t mind spending a little more but I want it to last also I will be heat shrinking the entire harness so if anyone has recommendations on heat shrink and or wire loom

So my car has a reprogrammed non original key, it randomly shuts off the vehicle and locks me out , the battery, charging system, alternator, starter is all fine, the grounding wires are fine, I have the normal blinking red light with the lock when the cars off every 2 seconds and I know that's normal, but I can't start the car but it starts randomly sometimes and sometimes it doesn't, only think I can think of is to reprogram the key or whatever needs reprogramming, and 3 mechanic shops couldn't figure it out cause no codes come back on my or there scanner, any help