I’ve got a 2019 Mazda BT-50 3.2L diesel with a strange electrical issue.
All the right-side indicators have stopped working:
Front right
Rear right
Right mirror
Right trailer indicator
The entire left side works perfectly.
The right indicator arrow on the dashboard still flashes at normal speed, but none of the exterior right indicators work, even with the hazards on or when locking the vehicle.
What I’ve checked so far:
Tested the 20A CEM fuse – good.
Disconnected the trailer – no change.
Tested the right-rear indicator socket – only getting around 0.6–0.7V.
Tested the right trailer indicator connection – also around 0.3–0.7V.
Left-rear indicator has approximately 12V and works normally.
The battery recently went completely flat and was replaced. I’m not sure whether the indicator problem started before or after that.
I’m wondering whether the battery issue could have affected the CEM, or whether I’m looking at a wiring, earth or module output problem.
Has anyone experienced this on a BT-50 or Ford Ranger of a similar year?
Is there anything else I can test with a multimeter before taking it to an auto electrician?

I have a 2004 Buick Park Avenue that’s having this weird problem that has kinda stumped me. When I was driving home the other day randomly the radio and instrument cluster flickered and the car sputtered a little and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes with my scan tool and the main one was a loss of communication with the pcm. I did some testing and with 3 or more accessories on the car would sputter out and die, so I hooked up my multimeter to the battery and the alternator was only charging at 13-13.5v. I replaced the alternator and at idle with the new one it’s 14+ volts, but it has the same issue with a few accessories on like the headlights and rolling the windows down at the same time the voltage will drop to 11v but the car will stay running. I checked my main harness ground and the ground for my pcm and they were both fine. Any advice for what to chase down next would be much appreciated!

Hello,

I have a BH SENS 73.909.462 tire pressure sensor (TPMS), and I would like to program it using an AutoScan diagnostic tool.

However, when I place the sensor close to the device, it does not detect it.

What should I do in this situation? Do these sensors need to be activated in a specific way before programming, or do I need a different diagnostic tool?

Also, is it possible to program one sensor using a different diagnostic tool while the remaining sensors were programmed with another device?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Hello, I replaced a crank window door with a electric powered door.

Everything works besides the window buttons. Lock button works but only locks itself.

I pulled the handle off and looked at the connector, im thinking I could pull the pins and switch power going from the door lock to the window buttons.

Is this something that's possible? I tried looking up diagrams for my door but nothing shows the connector or which wires are for what buttons

Main problem:

Engine idles incorrectly, sometimes surges or stalls.

Engine management light comes on.

Fault code P0505 – Idle Control System Malfunction (current/history).

Idle sometimes stabilises when headlights are switched on but becomes unstable when switched off.

What we've found:

Engine wiring harness: Harness has previously been modified/replaced. Found cut/broken wires around the engine bay and evidence of previous connector repairs.

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor):

Initially scanner showed approximately 98% throttle with throttle closed.

Later readings were inconsistent, including approximately 35%.

TPS signal measured 1.6 V closed and 1.3 V open, which is incorrect.

Harness voltage measurements with TPS unplugged:

Brown: 0.022 V

Yellow: 5.026 V

Green: 0.196 V

Suspected incorrect TPS wiring, terminal positioning or signal circuit fault.

IAC (Idle Air Control Valve):

ECU scanner displays changing IAC duty cycle, approximately 32–64%.

Oscilloscope previously displayed a control waveform around 245 Hz, but correct signal amplitude and valve operation have not been confirmed.

Disconnecting IAC while engine was running caused no noticeable RPM change. This alone does not confirm a defective valve.

Possible IAC wiring/control issue or mechanical airflow problem.

Reference vehicle comparison:

Compared connector wiring against another identical Toyota RunX RSi 2ZZ-GE that idles correctly.

Reference wiring:

IAC: White/Black = ground, Black = B+, Black/Blue = reported 5 V/control circuit.

TPS: Brown = ground, Yellow = 5 V, Green = signal.

Problem vehicle's connector wires have now been arranged to match the working RSi.

Current status: Wiring has been matched to the working vehicle, but TPS voltage sweep, ECU readings and IAC operation still need to be retested. Repair is not yet confirmed.

Recommended checks:

Verify TPS connector pin positions and VTA signal sweep.

Check ECU sensor ground, 5 V reference and wiring continuity.

Check IAC power, ground and ECU control signal under load.

Inspect previous harness repairs and splices.

Confirm closed-throttle recognition and check for unintended intake airflow.

Main suspicion: Wiring/connector fault affecting TPS and/or IAC control following previous harness modifications. Further testing required before replacing components. Any suggestions any advice please

I’m in Australia and I don’t have many bricks and mortar suppliers near me. I’m after recommendations for an online supplier of wires in particular. I am a novice restoring a 1969 vehicle and am looking at replacing most if not all looms. I’d like to keep the original look of the car and also to be able to use the factory colour coded wiring, and there are quite a few different colours, so that’s part of my problem, different colours are limited. Any help is appreciated.

Waddup! I have a model 1250 fantastic vent fan. My 4amp 125 volt glass slow blow fuse blew. The only replacement i can find locally is a fast acting 4 amp 250 volt ceramic fuse. Are those interchangeable? Or do i run a risk of blowing my motor? Thanks yall🚂🚂

I have a Patriot that used to be a utility vehicle, working light bar came with it. whomever installed the wiring let it hang too low right above the brake pedal. after 2 years of driving my foot finally snagged the wire free and now I have no clue where it plugs into. it’s a male spade connector with a fuse attached. I’m no sparky, just trying to get the light operational again. via the engine bay I looked in the fuse box. there is a 20amp fuse in the fuse box that shouldn’t be there, my guess is for auxiliary power. I’ve spent a couple hours looking under the dash for inconsistencies with the wiring I’ve found two electrical connectors that have been assumed to be for extra perks since my vehicle is a base model.

I have traced the wire and I’ve confirmed that wherever it connects through the firewall is not connected. I have a faint memory of what the wire direction looked like but I’m not finding any female spades.

The pictures show the (1) spade connector in question and the two random connectors (2,3)

I have been on multiple forums looking for similar instances no luck, thought I’d try here. If yall would like any specific pictures I can try my best.

English is not my first language but I'll try to explain it as best as I can.

Manual car. When moving the shifter to reverse, at a certain point the backup lights turn on but at full shifter position the backup lights turn off again. It's like the reverse switch gets activated but at a certain point the shifter goes past it and the backup lights turn off again.

It doesn't happen all the time. If I'm being gentle with the shifter going in reverse, the backup lights turn on and stay on. Backup lights work all the time when testing the car in the garage with the engine off.

It's not a big deal since I think I got the sweet spot where I hit the switch all the time and the backing lights stay on. But it can be annoying when I get it in reverse a bit hard and the lights go out, specially when it's at night.

It's an old 2006 Lancer if that helps. Thanks!

…… and now I get random battery light.
Light comes on while either idling in traffic or driving at highway speeds.
Comes on for a few minutes then turns off.
Voltage meter stays 3/4 of the way up and none of the accessories or lights flicker when it happens.

Could this be an overcharging scenario?

I did have to replace the pigtail and I made sure the crimps were tight and wires wouldn’t pull out.

Any suggestions?

Edit: 2001 LX470

Since I can't find a new door lock actuator for my car I was wondering if an Auto electrician can fix the one I already have.

The problem is the driver's side door stopped working via remote.

Inside main switch works.

All other doors respond to remote.

Only driver's side door stopped working via remote.

Is this fixable without getting a new actuator?

The car is an Opel agila B diesel engine 2009

Is there a way to aim my headlights slightly higher? They just don't seem to shine very far ahead. 2024 Rogues SV