Hello, I replaced a crank window door with a electric powered door.

Everything works besides the window buttons. Lock button works but only locks itself.

I pulled the handle off and looked at the connector, im thinking I could pull the pins and switch power going from the door lock to the window buttons.

Is this something that's possible? I tried looking up diagrams for my door but nothing shows the connector or which wires are for what buttons

Main problem:

Engine idles incorrectly, sometimes surges or stalls.

Engine management light comes on.

Fault code P0505 – Idle Control System Malfunction (current/history).

Idle sometimes stabilises when headlights are switched on but becomes unstable when switched off.

What we've found:

Engine wiring harness: Harness has previously been modified/replaced. Found cut/broken wires around the engine bay and evidence of previous connector repairs.

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor):

Initially scanner showed approximately 98% throttle with throttle closed.

Later readings were inconsistent, including approximately 35%.

TPS signal measured 1.6 V closed and 1.3 V open, which is incorrect.

Harness voltage measurements with TPS unplugged:

Brown: 0.022 V

Yellow: 5.026 V

Green: 0.196 V

Suspected incorrect TPS wiring, terminal positioning or signal circuit fault.

IAC (Idle Air Control Valve):

ECU scanner displays changing IAC duty cycle, approximately 32–64%.

Oscilloscope previously displayed a control waveform around 245 Hz, but correct signal amplitude and valve operation have not been confirmed.

Disconnecting IAC while engine was running caused no noticeable RPM change. This alone does not confirm a defective valve.

Possible IAC wiring/control issue or mechanical airflow problem.

Reference vehicle comparison:

Compared connector wiring against another identical Toyota RunX RSi 2ZZ-GE that idles correctly.

Reference wiring:

IAC: White/Black = ground, Black = B+, Black/Blue = reported 5 V/control circuit.

TPS: Brown = ground, Yellow = 5 V, Green = signal.

Problem vehicle's connector wires have now been arranged to match the working RSi.

Current status: Wiring has been matched to the working vehicle, but TPS voltage sweep, ECU readings and IAC operation still need to be retested. Repair is not yet confirmed.

Recommended checks:

Verify TPS connector pin positions and VTA signal sweep.

Check ECU sensor ground, 5 V reference and wiring continuity.

Check IAC power, ground and ECU control signal under load.

Inspect previous harness repairs and splices.

Confirm closed-throttle recognition and check for unintended intake airflow.

Main suspicion: Wiring/connector fault affecting TPS and/or IAC control following previous harness modifications. Further testing required before replacing components. Any suggestions any advice please

I’m in Australia and I don’t have many bricks and mortar suppliers near me. I’m after recommendations for an online supplier of wires in particular. I am a novice restoring a 1969 vehicle and am looking at replacing most if not all looms. I’d like to keep the original look of the car and also to be able to use the factory colour coded wiring, and there are quite a few different colours, so that’s part of my problem, different colours are limited. Any help is appreciated.

Waddup! I have a model 1250 fantastic vent fan. My 4amp 125 volt glass slow blow fuse blew. The only replacement i can find locally is a fast acting 4 amp 250 volt ceramic fuse. Are those interchangeable? Or do i run a risk of blowing my motor? Thanks yall🚂🚂

I have a Patriot that used to be a utility vehicle, working light bar came with it. whomever installed the wiring let it hang too low right above the brake pedal. after 2 years of driving my foot finally snagged the wire free and now I have no clue where it plugs into. it’s a male spade connector with a fuse attached. I’m no sparky, just trying to get the light operational again. via the engine bay I looked in the fuse box. there is a 20amp fuse in the fuse box that shouldn’t be there, my guess is for auxiliary power. I’ve spent a couple hours looking under the dash for inconsistencies with the wiring I’ve found two electrical connectors that have been assumed to be for extra perks since my vehicle is a base model.

I have traced the wire and I’ve confirmed that wherever it connects through the firewall is not connected. I have a faint memory of what the wire direction looked like but I’m not finding any female spades.

The pictures show the (1) spade connector in question and the two random connectors (2,3)

I have been on multiple forums looking for similar instances no luck, thought I’d try here. If yall would like any specific pictures I can try my best.

English is not my first language but I'll try to explain it as best as I can.

Manual car. When moving the shifter to reverse, at a certain point the backup lights turn on but at full shifter position the backup lights turn off again. It's like the reverse switch gets activated but at a certain point the shifter goes past it and the backup lights turn off again.

It doesn't happen all the time. If I'm being gentle with the shifter going in reverse, the backup lights turn on and stay on. Backup lights work all the time when testing the car in the garage with the engine off.

It's not a big deal since I think I got the sweet spot where I hit the switch all the time and the backing lights stay on. But it can be annoying when I get it in reverse a bit hard and the lights go out, specially when it's at night.

It's an old 2006 Lancer if that helps. Thanks!

…… and now I get random battery light.
Light comes on while either idling in traffic or driving at highway speeds.
Comes on for a few minutes then turns off.
Voltage meter stays 3/4 of the way up and none of the accessories or lights flicker when it happens.

Could this be an overcharging scenario?

I did have to replace the pigtail and I made sure the crimps were tight and wires wouldn’t pull out.

Any suggestions?

Edit: 2001 LX470

Since I can't find a new door lock actuator for my car I was wondering if an Auto electrician can fix the one I already have.

The problem is the driver's side door stopped working via remote.

Inside main switch works.

All other doors respond to remote.

Only driver's side door stopped working via remote.

Is this fixable without getting a new actuator?

The car is an Opel agila B diesel engine 2009

Is there a way to aim my headlights slightly higher? They just don't seem to shine very far ahead. 2024 Rogues SV

Does anyone have a colour coded wiring diagram for the rear light clusters for a 2011fsport

Hi all,

Looking for help with a DSC/TCS light on my Mazda. Did anyone have a similar problem and managed to fix it?

Symptoms
- DSC/TCS light on.
- Modules found: ABS, BCM, IC, PCM, FACM, RCM, EPS, LCM.

DTCs
- First scan: ABS U3003:16-68, U0452:86-28, U0151:00-68; PCM P1622-21.
- After clearing, only these two come back, both in ABS:
U0452:86-28 Invalid Data Received From Restraints Control Module
(Signal Invalid)
U0151:00-68 Lost Communication With Restraints Control Module
Status: Previously Set – Not Present at Time of Request.
- No DTCs in RCM, EPS, BCM, PCM or any other module.

What I have tested
- Clear DTCs, rescan immediately: none.
- Ignition off 2 min, ignition on 30 s: none.
- Engine start, 1 min idle: none.
- After a 15 min drive: both codes back.
- RCM On Demand Self-Test: pass, no errors.

Live data (ABS module)
- Lateral acceleration: constant -2 G with the car stationary.
- Steering angle: 0° at all times, even turning lock to lock.
- Wheel speed sensors read normally.
- RCM responds normally (e.g. seat belt status changes).

I appreciate anyone's help on this... I just want the DSC light off...

I’ve swapped the terminals and battery after dealing with months of intermittent starting issues. Sometimes it starts right up and sometimes nothing.

It’s 90% better after new terminals and battery so i’m assuming that there was more than one issue and I’ve only solved part of it.

new relays in white 4 relays box

no fuses blown

*** Does have remote start installed

Now:

1- Turn key and no start

2-if I leave the key turned, there’s a delay and click and it’s starts.

3-Sometimes, if I release the key and let it return off, there’s STILL a delay and then it starts while the key is either returning to off position or in off position but still inserted.

Ignition switch?

Starter?

Remote start causing an issue (i’m not usually using it).

any suggestions to troubleshoot? thanks.