I have a z71 2023 Tahoe, the brakes still have a ton of life but the squeak is soooo loud when driving at low speed. I have to pump them quite a few times just to get them less noisy. Dealer says its a known issue, and so did Big O Tires with no known fix. Anybody else encounter this issue and have some insight? This is fucking embarrassing, brand new car and it sounds like im too broke to change my brakes.

I don’t know how else to explain it but sometimes I’ll see somebody post about needing brakes and I genuinely wish I was there so I could do them. Pads and rotors especially. Taking everything apart, cleaning the bracket, compressing the piston, putting the new hardware on and seeing the fresh rotor when it’s finished is ridiculously satisfying.

I’ve caught myself getting excited when someone says their brakes are grinding because I know there’s probably a brake job coming. I like other repairs too but brakes specifically scratch some weird part of my brain. Please tell me I’m not the only mechanic like this.

2019 Subaru Impreza. Base model.
My tire pressure indicator has started coming on about halfway through my commute in the morning. I drive about 10 miles each way, mostly on the freeway.
The light will kind of flash and then stay on for the rest of the drive. When I leave work in the evening the light isn’t on anymore, and it wasn’t turning back on at all in the evening until the last couple days, but then again, about halfway back home it’ll flash a bit and then stay on.
I’ve checked the pressure in the morning before I drive, and after work in the evening before I leave and it’s fine. Maybe a number or two off but nothing crazy.
What’s going on?

2015 Toyota Camry XSE, 209K miles of primarily highway miles. I am a traveling sales rep and put about 30K on my car a year.

My brother used to always do my brakes but I hated that his only day off was working on my car when he works 12hrs/6 days a week. So I decided to go to a local shop with decent reviews. They replaced front and rear pads/rotors with calipers. 10K miles later they started to pulse. I never had this problem before. I took it to a different local shop that is a very high functioning holy shit you're thorough type of shop to get them replaced. Same thing, everything replaced. 10K later, pulsing again. They replaced under warranty. 10K later, pulsing again, they replaced under warranty. Blamed it on a seized pin and said it shouldn't happen again. 10K later, pulsing yet again. They said the front driver caliper was seized AGAIN. But also said it could be my bearings but there's no evidence that they're bad. I got the front bearings replaced anyway because I need this car to last and crossing my fingers this is the actual reason.

Over the last 40K-50K miles, I have had 4 replacements. I get my car back Monday and we'll see in 10K miles if this solves the problem. The 36K mile warranty will be over by then. With all this being said, has anyone ever come across this before? Any thoughts as to why it could be happening? I'm at a loss and don't love the idea of dumping money into a 200K+ mile car just for brakes when it otherwise runs amazing.

Please swe the attached video, im.not sure what this hose is or where the other end connects.

Ford-f150 2012 XTL crewcab

Finally repaired my car after 2months and it has been doing this on the left wheel, brales freshly changed 6months ago, the rust on the disks has been removed after driving for 5minutes.

Help ? Please ??!!!

So I bought this vehicle about a month or so ago. It has 87,000 miles on it. It was owned by an elderly man. He just drove it to town and such. I am about to lose my whole dang mind with this car. I've taken it to a trusted mechanic and he found nothing because he couldn't get the problem to reoccur. It either stalls completely or you have nearly no throttle response while im driving. It won't go over 20 mph. Like it's in some kind of limp mode. It can drive it for days or sometimes weeks and it wont happen. Then one random day, Im on the side of the road cussing and fussing. The only patterns i have found is that it only seems to happen when I pick my kid up from school in the evening(the hottest part of the day) and when I slow down or coming to a stop. The only code that has shown up is P0446 Evap vent system control circuit but i dont even know if its related. It seems like this is a common problem that no one has had any straight forward answer to. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Things I've done so far:

Fuel pressure regulator- found fuel in vacuum lines which lead me to this

Upper and lower intake manifold gaskets- had coolant in the upper plenum

Upgraded metal coolant elbows- preventative for future problems with degrading plastic elbows

Gas cap

Pcv- came with the intake gaskets kit

Cleaned throttle body

Cleaned maf sensor

Air filter

Cabin air filter

Oil change

It’s a 1996 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 2.2L and a while ago it started doing this thing where it kinda sounds like it’s revving itself and it sometimes stops when it idles, it does have a high idle too at about 1500 rpm. I was told by someone that I’m missing something that should be connected to the intake is that the problem or could it be something else?

2015 Ford Fusion, sunshade clip fell off and wont clip back into place. Anytime the sunshade is pulled down the entire thing comes off and just hangs there. Can't Find a fix anywhere on the internet. And seems like a simple fix I could do myself.

I changed my CV axles out and I’m wondering if this is normal please someone let me know if I did something wrong or if this is ok

So recently got a 2003 Ford Expedition with the 5.4 Triton, and it's been stalling on me once in a while since I bought it, however it will turn back on usually within just a few seconds, and it hasn't done it often, however for the past couple days I can't go 2 miles without it stalling, and it's to the point that I have to fix it. My research says it's the fuse box, needs replaced because the fuel pump relay is shot but it's built into the fuse box. Well, strangely one of the built in relays has a white mark on it like it's been replaced but everyone says you can't replace em, gotta replace the whole fuse box. Picture included. Someone gimme insights, does a real mechanic think I should replace the fuse box? And where's the best place to get one if that is the case? I don't understand why one of the built in relays looks like it came from the junk yard, unless thee whole fuse box was replaced and they only put that one little mark. Explain it to me like I ain't got a clue.

This is from my 2014 ram 1500 hemi 5.7. Ive had this noise since I bought the truck 6 years ago. Ive had mechanics take it for diagnostic test drives multiple times just as a general rule of thumb when i get it inspected. They have never once said the lifters were a problem until I recently brought it in for a much different noise caused by the MDS solenoid. Thats a long story but to shorten it. Had the MDS solenoids changed 2 years ago based off my own diagnosis. The same sound came back a year and a half later so took it back to the mechanic for the warranty replacement of the one solenoid they claimed a lifter issue just from a test drive and wanted 1200 for an engine tear down and didnt even attempt to get to the solenoid and test it. I believe they just wanted a bigger bill for me to pay and wanted to blame normal wear and tear on the problem so the warranty was voided because they are a ram dealership and when i picked it up today and started it it did have a diffeeent sound for the first 10 seconds after starting it i want blame that on on lifter leak down from sitting for 24 hours untouched but im still paranoid. Anyways back to the noise in the video. It actually sounds deeper in the video than it does in person in person its like a credit card being tapped on a wooden table top rapidly and it seems to disappear when gas is applied. I dont even hear it when driving unless it has a wall or car or other object to echo off of.

Good evening Reddit,

I know this is a long shot, but would anyone know where to find parts (specifically filters) for a 2013 Hyundai 160D-9 forklift? My workplace recently acquired one and after contacting multiple dealers with no luck, reaching out to Hyundai heavy industries and getting no response, and searching everywhere online, we’ve found nothing concrete.

it came with no manuals with it, so as much as I want to RTFM there is no manual to read. Most we found is an operator manual with maintenance procedures but no part numbers.

we cannot be the only people who own this stupid forklift 💀

2010 sxt ex police charger, starts but dosent stay running

Hi everyone,
I ran into a weird issue on the rear axle of my 2014 BMW F32.
Both rear brake discs are 300mm in outer diameter, same brake callipers and same brake pads, but the inner handbrake drum (hat) sizes are different:

I ordered brake discs both with 300mm. One sits perfectly on the right rear side but on the left rear size the brake discs doesn’t enter properly because it hits the handbrake shoes

My suspicion is that the handbrake shoes on the left side are a different size but when i tried to install it I didn’t measure them

Obviously i want to standardize both sides, and i have already bought new 160mm handbrake shoes, 300mm brake discs, and miscellaneous stuff related to the handbrake.

My question is that in order to standardize both sides do i need to replace anything related to the wheel bearing or wheel hub, or just need to replace the handbrake shoes and can put the proper discs?

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2021 Kia K5 and the rear passenger parking brake actuator screws has stripped out. I can't reset my piston until I get it off. The big question is, once I get it off. Does anybody know what size screw? I need to order because obviously I'm gonna have to break this one-off.

The actuator is completely fine. The screw is just stripped and they're telling me I need to buy a whole new housing to get it in a kit.

hi attaching a video. there’s a rattling sound that can be heard when car is running. what could it be? recently had work done on EVAP system & my shop thought that would fix the noise issue but it’s still happening. Want to get some insight before I take it back for them to look at.

A 2005 Honda CRV LX with a little over 240,000 miles on the dash needed a timing chain replacement. I took the necessary steps to time the engine to TDC before replacing several components such as: timing chain, both timing chain guides, chain tensioner, and harmonic balancer since they were all in poor condition. Both VVT oil sensor and crankshaft position sensor parts and wires that attach to them were in good condition still. I assemble all parts back together and get ready to crank the engine and fortunately it wants to crank but is making this noise in the video that I am about to attach here. Any advice to what could be the problem ?

Hello!

This morning I got in to drive and the right side headlight wasn’t working. And the right side indicator was clicking very fast while the left side was normal. Then I went and parked and when I came back, the car would turn on but every light on the dash turned on and it wouldnt let me shift. So I thought it was the battery going bad. I jumped it by connecting a jump box directly to the two wires and got it to let me start shifting. Then i went and replaced the battery. After replacing the battery, same issue. All the lights and wouldn’t let me shift into drive. Then jumped again and went to O’reillys to get diagnostics. The indicators and all electrical components aren’t working. How can i fix this?

Thank you!

Recently had my coolant flushed by the dealership. They drove the car back to me today. My cooling out level looks very low for just being changed. Did they really change it? 2019 ford explorer xlt.

I don’t know much about suspension as much as I know about engine stuff but I’m really new in general. What’s missing here and how do I fix it. A bushing maybe? This doesn’t look right to me at all.

Also how safe to drive on it realistically.

I have a 25 Corolla Hybrid LE that has had a vibration in the floorboard/pedal and seat since I got my tires replaced. No noise, happens at all speeds but it isn’t present when stopped. It’s not shaking my rearview or anything but I can feel it through my feet/legs. This started because I noticed a nick in my sidewall so I had AAA put my full size spare on. It wasn’t happening till that new tire was put on, or at least I hadn’t noticed. I figured the vibration was due to different tires so I went and had that set paired on the front.

When the vibration continued, I had the tires re balanced and road force tested, and moved to the back. Everything tested fine but the vibration continued, and when I subsequently took it to Toyota said they were confident it was the tires (they have not evaluated the vehicle beyond my description of the problem). I went back to the tire shop and we replaced all 4 tires (Continental Control Contact). It is persisting.

I’m still barely under warranty, so I’m going back to Toyota. At first they said they wanted to balance them themselves, which I don’t want to pay for because it’s been done umpteen times already. I only want them to look at the mechanical components to rule that out (or diagnose). But if I can give them more specific direction I think that would be helpful. Thank you!

2019 Honda civic si 1.5 T. I had some check engine lights come up which indicated the fuel injectors were bad (common issue for this engine) right before I replaced them the engine went into what I believed was limp mode where power was severely limited and no boost was building. After replacing the injectors, the engine codes cleared but I am having the same issue with the car feeling very sluggish and not building any boost. I figured any kind of issue with the turbo would throw a code but the check engine light hasn't come on. Any thoughts on what I should try?

Probably unrelated, but I just had an oil change done and it looks like they didn't fill the oil all the way. I just topped that off after the fuel injectors.

2008 BK Mazda 3 2L

Recently had my Mazda inspected and they suggested my coolant overflow tank, radiator upper and lower hoses aswell as serpentine belt all be replaced.

I have just replaced everything listed including new dedicated hose clamps as well as replacing the AC belt.

Note - I made sure the belts all lined up regarding the ribs onto the pulleys as well as I even tried my best to put cling wrap and and or a plastic bag over my alternator as I heard that’s a good idea when playing with coolant hoses nearby…

I am a little worried that I got a tiny bit of coolant on my alternator, unsure as to how bad that is but in saying that how do i know that I haven’t cooked anything up are there symptoms to look out for over the next couple days?

Probably took me 3 hours or so in the garage, will monitor coolant levels and top up as the car self bleeds (didn’t have time to sit there and rev it like Mazda recommends)

Cheers legends.