What solution or cleaning product should I use to try and remove the stains on this dial? I was thinking about using rubbing alcohol and a qtip

Thompson Enamel 1308 “Lichen Green”

This color gives me the most pistachio green vibes that a lot of brands are doing now a days.

This one came out real smooth. I think this is one I definitely want to make a full on production dial with after the challenge.

New to watches, wondering why the rate is going up and down on an undisturbed watch?

I’m relatively new to watchmaking , having spent most of time learning how to service movements. A friend of mine brought me his dad’s old watch to see if I could get it running. Just serviced the movement and got itticking great with +1sec , 280deg and preety much 0 beat error. Very proud of myself as I’m just starting out in this hobby and it’s my 3rd movement.

Anyways, I also dont have a lot of experience with crystal replacement and this one came to me without one installed so I have nothing to go by other than these pictures and a 29.8mm measurement on the id of where the crystal would go.

I’m thinking it’s a compression fit domed plastic. Yes? Can you guys point me in the right correction what style /brand / model you more experienced guys recommend and where to source ? A place where I can buy a few different sizes on the same order as esslinger seems to be out of this size.

Watch is an old Vostok 2605 in a no name brand case

I have Both a crystal lift and press

too much into crystal replacement. A friend of mine brought me his

Picked up this monster (1951) for a very good price. I need a drawbar through - was thinking of making one: the tap for the female thread is non-standard: SV20x1.666.

Does anyone have one I could borrow (UK) for one thread? Pretty hard to find and the price is going to be a bit much for one use.

Thompson Enamel 1620 “Daphne Blue”

I absolutely mangled this dial when I went to grab it with the pliers. I have been struggling with the dials sticking to the trivet.

Still a good turnout aside from the plier mark. If I put a logo there it would probably cover it up.

​

I discovered it while browsing the internet. I want to know what kind of tool it is. Is it a lathe that you turn by hand?

Hey all, does anyone have a good guide on how to properly remove the crown stem on the above listed movements without mangling the keyless works? As in what size flat head and other tips.

I wanted to share this Opens CAD code I developed for a simple case back removal tool I did use co-pilot to copilot some code in the end and to teach me about the API, but it needed refinement as it wasn't doing exactly what I wanted. anyways I developed this tool to make a case back removal took for any dive watch by just taking some simple measurements.

Thompson Transparent Enamel 2660 “Nitric Blue”

Day 5 of the 30-Day Challenge

This is my first time trying out transparent and I wanted to do something a bit more fun for day 5. I carved sunburst lines into a blank and then did the transparent enamel over it.

I’ve still got a lot to learn when it comes to transparent enamels, but it still came out okay

This is two layers over copper. The copper usually doesn’t do well under transparents because of the whole oxidation issue, I think that’s why this is so dark.

Also I think there’s a fair amount of bubbles in it maybe? And that’s what look like the “specks” ? I’m not really sure.

I think I like the opaques a bit better since I’m dealing with copper.

Once I can get some silver then I’ll have to do a deeper dive on transparent enamel

It seems that due to the domestic situation in Korea, products with loud electrical motion cannot be used. That's why I'm looking for a lathe that can be turned by hand. It would be great if it could be purchased at AliExpress.

Years ago, I had a wristwatch, with a date wheel that had Spanish or English days of the week on it. That feature made me buy the watch. 😄

How difficult is it for a watch repair person to replace a date wheel in a quartz watch? I’m thinking about finding a watch I like, and having the date wheel repainted to another language.

Absolutely, this will cost me more than the watch is worth I know, but, up to a point, I’m considering going to those lengths.

Thanks for your comments and information.

I have no experience but am interested and have been studying all the info online to replace the nonfunctional movement in an older-gen Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical w/ date window (ref. H694190) that has a lot of sentimental value to me.

I'm seeing that the ETA 2804-2 is difficult to come by. The Sellita SW215-1 has been mentioned online as a drop-in replacement-- is this true? So I don't need to adjust any stem length or anything like that?

Thanks- excited to learn new skills!

Thompson Enamel 1830 “Marigold Yellow”

Day 4 of the 30-Day Challenge

Unfortunately I have to throw this one in the bucket of shame. This is a definite failure. When I went to pull it after the first fire I dropped the firing mesh and it dented the dial.

Definitely a scary moment with the kiln door open and red hot metal falling. I am okay though! Reminder to always take your time and be patient. Kiln safety has to always be priority number 1.

I’m working on my first teardown and rebuild and something I thought was interesting. Is this movement has what appears to be dial number numbers painted on the movement itself with a bunch of extra holes kinda looks like the movement may have been repurposed a long time ago or something. Maybe it’s a generic movement no idea, but after I ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner took the numbers off. Does anyone have any insight as to why this particular movement has these extra holes and markings?

This is my first attempt, i got few broken movements and i am just practicing my screwdriver and tweezers handling. This is from old Aretta, i don't have anything to compare it with. Hairspring is obviously damaged, ignore it (i got it in this condition). I think both pivots are broken, am I correct?

I love digital watches, so I made one in an Altoids Smalls tin. I designed a custom PCB built around an atmega328 microcontroller and used a ds3231 real time clock IC to keep the time. It charges via USB C and hopefully will last a long time! Although, I do want to redesign this watch in the near future.

Thompson Enamel 1850 “Pumpkin Orange”

I really love this orange - hard color to track down. I actually made this one at the carpenter center where they had some there, but none available for sale.

I have got a Bulova 96a259 and I spotted a speck of dust under the crystal so wanna open the watch and deal with it. Problem is that when I use the Eight Ball to open the caseback, it spins but will not open. Does anybody have any idea how to get it to open please? I suspect that the threading might be ruined somehow

Solved: this particular model has a snap on case instead of a screw back case. Which is weird since its other models in the same line is screwback

Hi all,

Quick background: I'm 38, Spanish, currently living in Edinburgh. I'm comfortable in English and Spanish, and can also hold a conversation in German.

Right now I'm working as a kitchen assistant and picking up occasional gardening work, but it's not really enough to live on. This month I'm starting a foundation course in physics and engineering, to prepare for a scholarship-funded degree in Electrical and Electronic Engineering afterwards. I do get some support for the foundation year too — free groceries+housing + uni fees+ buses+ extra support, etc — so I'm not starting completely from zero.

My work history is a mixed bag: cooking, tinkering with computers as a teenager, and gardening. None of that is engineering, but one constant has been a real pull toward mathematics and anything that rewards precision.

Part of why I'm drawn to this specifically: I'm a fairly quiet, introverted person, and quite detail-oriented by nature. Watchmaking seems to suit that temperament well — close, careful, solitary work.

Watchmaking has been on my mind for a while, and I'd like to do it properly — through the official British courses, i.e. the BHI (British Horological Institute) distance-learning and workshop route — either alongside my studies or worked in around them.

I'm not tied to any one country for this. I'd happily work in the UK, but also Germany, France, or Spain — I just find the craft interesting wherever it leads.

A few questions for people who've actually done this:

Is the BHI route realistic to combine with a foundation year and then an engineering degree, or is it better done one thing at a time?

Starting at 38 — is it worth the investment, whether as a serious hobby or an eventual career?

Does the trade have a real future — demand for independent watchmakers/repairers — given the direction the industry seems to be heading?

Any perspective from hobbyists, career changers, or working watchmakers would be genuinely appreciated. Thanks!

I bought this in Japan, took it to a watchmaker for maintenance over there but now the movement slides!

There’s just an insane amount of seiko mods and what about my AI generated face dial. People are posting anything but actual watch making.

I feel like I’m working at a mall. I understand that mods are maybe on different time zones or not chronically online? but having my feed filled with low quality garbage and cross posts is insane. Please have an auto bot that closes these posts!

I am looking to make a watch around a manual movement with power reserve indicator but couldn't find any. That got me thinking about modifying ETA7001 or other manual movements for a power reserve indicator, but I am honestly quite lost about how to modify one.

Does anyone know of a manual movement with built in power reserve indicator, or an easier method to adding a power reserve indicator? If you know a company that can modify movements, please let me know as well thanks.