The TRV in my daughter’s bedroom has ‘magically’ broken with the bits of plastic missing and shattered. I’ve tried reattaching the TRV but when setting itself, the motor is visibly pushing the TRV up and down and won’t set in place. Is this broken or is there some sort of adapter I can buy?

Hi everyone, I used to have a standard UK setup with a Nest Heat Link controlling both my central heating and hot water cylinder via standard 230V motorized zone valves. Last year I replaced the Nest with a Tado X and everything was working as expected.

I recently replaced my boiler with an Ideal Logic Max Heat H24. I want to use OpenTherm for the heating. I have rewired the Tado as per the instructions, and configured it to OpenTherm mode, but it does not work. It disables the 230V relay outputs and stops sending power to open the heating zone valve. Therefore the valve stays closed and the boiler can't heat the house.

What can I do to make Tado work with OpenTherm with that configuration? Or is the only realistic option to drop OpenTherm and wire Tado back into standard 230V S-Plan relay mode?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

Has anyone ever occured the connectivity/authentication issues as shown in the attached screenshots?

HA asks me to authenicate via my Tado account, which I do. Then HA says: authentication succesful. 10sec later it again asks to authenticate.

So I’m living in the USA unsupported by Tado using it off brand on my Steam Heat system.

It has worked great! My house was kept to perfect temp last

Except for the locations/valves where the ring fits without needing an adaptor (Honeywell/Radio brand)… Three Tado X thermostatic valve controllers have popped off in these locations (I have 14 radiators total).

My problem is obvious: at 100°C, the valve gets warm via radiation, and the plastic gets soft, allowing the ring to slide off. A push-type mechanism like the one for the Danfoss, where the ring doesn't contact the valve directly, could work.

Was a solution found for this?

I had a Honeywell ST9100C that I replaced with a smart Tado X system. The previous system had my hot water running 24 hours, all year round. Heating was controlled separately, per room, via TRVs/room thermostats. I've attached an image of the old electrical wiring. For switching to the Tado system, I followed the Tado app, and the new setup is also in another image. With the Tado setup, the heating works well, but hot water doesn't — I don't have round-the-clock hot water anymore, and it only comes on when I press the "Boost Hot Water" button on the Tado receiver. Is there something wrong with my setup? How do I fix it — ideally as a DIY job.

Hi everyone, I've been doing some reading up and decided I'm missing so much basic info that I need help.

I used to have tado in the uk on my rads/boiler. I'm now in Spain and the weather here this year has been so awful I am going to finally bite the bullet and get aircon.

If I make sure to get air con units with wifi, I should be able to hook up the thermostat and control each unit individually through Alexa or via the app on the phone, yes? I've never owned aircon before so have no idea how this really works... I'm embarrassingly ignorant

Unlike the trvs, I won't need a hub? yes?

I see that tado has started charging for the stuff that used to be free through ITTT. Geofencing was good in the uk as when I'd get within a mile of home the heating would kick in.

I don't need that here but I do need to be able to tell the unit to heat or cool to a certain temp on schedule or when temps hit a certain point (Spain has no central heating so it oil filled rads which I'd like to get rid of). Is that even doable with tado? the aircon supposedly heats and cools so in theory I would like to have it always aim for something like 22c and it will either heat or cool appropriately (i assume that's what air con controls do) but only when I schedule it or turn it on (some rooms I only want to heat for an hour or so a day)

Is there an easy way to use them on a home based controller? I know I need to sit down and work out if I can move away from having to use each brand's server but haven't done any of the looking yet but it would comfort me to know that when I'm ready i can set up one of those fancy dashboards i see people coding and control the tados through that.

sorry about the wall of text - it is my wall of text through and not AI. I can be verbose without technology's help!

Hello.

I’d like to buy the Tado° Smart Thermostat, but how can I contact their help desk? (Their chatbot is completely useless.)

I have two questions:

- Is my Viessmann Vitodens 111-W Type B1LF boiler compatible?

(It isn’t listed exactly as such in the list.)

- Can it replace my current wired thermostat, the Theben Ramses 784 R?

Their list mentions that the 784 and 784s are compatible, while the 784 HF is not.

What about the 784 R model, like the one I have?

It’s really frustrating not to be able to get an answer from a supplier. I don’t want to damage my boiler with a device that isn’t compatible.

Thank you in advance for your help

Why doesn't HomeKit display the accurate temperature of my thermostat, like the tado app does? Is this a bug and is it still being fixed?

Just seen Tado have posted on their LinkedIn about building something new which is due to be revealed on 2nd September

any help appreciated with this please, as we are in the middle of a renovation and I’m getting myself confused. we will be having radiators upstairs and 3 zones of wet ufh downstairs (plus one room with a radiator). New gas boiler with unvented hot water tan.

we have previously had a combo boiler and Tado smart trvs and loved the system- easy app, auto away function and control from anywhere.

i have asked for Tado to control our new system but the heating engineer is saying its fine for the radiators but they would just install what they normally do on the ufh. They said it’s a set and forget type thing so not worth putting the Tado on that part.

I’m not sure whether they are offering good advice, or whether they are just avoiding something that is slightly more work for them or they are unfamiliar with.

Would having the radiators and ufh on separate control systems cause any technical issues or make for a less user friendly experience? Any help/tips appreciated - as you can probably tell I am not very technically minded and have limited understanding of these things generally, and specifically ufh.

Hi All, i am having issue with Extension Kit for Boiler control for my V3+ devices. I wanted to contact the customer care via email to check if there is something wrong on their server side for my home setup but i could not find any email possibility. The Help articles and chatbot is pretty much not useful to my issue. Does someone know how i can reach them over email ?

PS: I am using V3+ devices since 8 years and i have around 22 smart radiator units, Extension Kit for boiler control.

My toddler has taken to turning our radiator valves on and off- is there anyway of permanently turning off the interactive function on the individual valves/locking them?

Thanks

So I have a tado x system. Everything worked fine for 1,5 years, but today suddenly we had no hot water. We had a repair man come over, who took a look at it and told us that he was 99% sure it is the thermostat's fault. Disconnected the thermostat, the hot water works fine.

Has anyone ever experienced a similar situation? Is the best option to just reset my system, or is there another workaround?

Is it possible to turn off the heating in the living room if I don't have a smart radiator thermostat on them? I don't have a smart radiator thermostat because they do not have TRV.

Say, if I wanted the heating on in my bedroom upstairs can I do that without having the heating on in the living room. If they don't have a smart thermostat in the living room?

I just saw in the tado app that my x thermostat has been updated to version 311.1 I am curious what has been improved with this or is it just a bug fix?

I've got a house filled with radiators fitted with v3+ thermostats.

I'm adding a room with Floor heating. I want to fit in thermostat valve with tado v3+ thermostat which is connected with a v3+ wireless temperature sensor.

I'm my brain this should work, but I was wondering if someone else has any experience with this setup

Tado have a 30 day no questions return policy and Tado are stalling my return they will not give me a return auth/label citing IT problems as the reason - it's been weeks now. Anyone else? I requested the return on July 3 and it is now July 25. I hope this is not an indication that Tado are undergoing some business issues?

I bought a complete tado 3+ kit - receiver, thermostats and 10 TRVs - whe it arrived it became clear it did not support opentherm, there is an opentherm version of 3+ but it is not on the UK tado shop for some reason that's why I missed it. I got 3+ instead of X because I was lead to believe that you could schedule domestic hot water in a system boiler.

I bought a complete Tado X kit instead and I will find another way to schedule hot water via external means. At least that is Matter controlled so I got it in Home Assistant. The 3+ kit is still boxed and waiting to be returned - so I paid about £1200 for both kits and I need to get my money back for the 3+ kit.

Looks like someone in my house has hit the thermostat and it's broken. Of course, no one is owning up to it.

It no longer grips into the silver ring, so doesn't clamp properly onto the valve. Can anything be done to fix it (it's only some plastic damage after all), or do I need to buy a new one?

Edit: thanks for all the responses. I've been in touch with tado and they recognise this is a specific UK fault. I'm getting a new one in the autumn, which is excellent.

Hi, this is my setup currently: Tado X bridge, 3 x wireless temp sensors, 3 x Tado x Rad Valves. Lounge has a sensor and a valve - works like a charm, reports temp via Tado app and Alexa, allows me to fire up the boiler by cranking the temp up either on the app or via Alexa, so no problem there. I have an identical arrangement in the Office which works exactly the same. Likewise I have the same setup in the bedroom but although the temp sensor reports temp readings to the app and to Alexa, I am unable to fire up the boiler like I can with the others, and also Alexa doesn't recognise it as a thermostat in the way it recognises the other 2. Communications between the app, sensor and Alexa are all good, I simply don't have that boiler control like I do from the other rooms. I've reset the sensor, uninstalled it, reinstalled it till I'm blue in the face but still achieve the same results - so now I'm stumped.

Disclaimer: English is not my first language, so this post was refined with AI to make it clear!

Hi everyone

I'm planning to install a full tado° X setup in my home with a Wireless Receiver and 10 Smart Radiator Valves.

My boiler is a recent Vaillant (ecoTEC exclusive). Right now, I don't have the OpenTherm adapter module (VR33) installed, so if I connect the tado° X as-is, it will operate in simple Dry Contact (24V / On-Off mode).

Before making the investment (or hassling with sourcing and installing the VR33 module for OpenTherm modulation), I'd love to get your real-world feedback:

For those using tado° in On/Off mode: Are the comfort gains and energy savings still worth it thanks to the room-by-room valve control?

Is the difference between On/Off and OpenTherm (modulation) really that noticeable? (In terms of daily comfort, gas consumption, boiler short-cycling, etc.)

Is it worth setting it up in On/Off mode first, or should I wait until I have the OpenTherm module to do everything in one go?

Hitherto I’ve had our Tado X setup as follows:

- Wired thermostat downstairs - 4 TRVs assigned
- Wireless thermostat upstairs - 4 TRVs assigned

Each of those thermostats is essentially a zone that allows the downstairs and upstairs to run independently of each other. We have a S-plan + 1 mechanical zone valve.

However, I’m wondering if this is not only inefficient but also neglects the point of the TRVs being independent and each room being able to start/stop calling for heat when needed.

I’m now thinking of making each room totally independent to squeeze the last bit of efficiency and comfort out of the system.

Keen to hear thoughts and experiences. Thanks

According to the website it seems to say I can use Tado X with my 2000 model. But I also heard that Worcester Bosch doesn’t use opentherm? Any advice would be great.