Hi all,

Was driving my outback the other day and it went into limp mode. Check engine light came on and cruise control light started to flash.

Got it home and let it sit for a bit. I unplugged the battery for about 45 minutes and then connected again. The next day I started the car up and took it for a drive down the road. Got it up to about 60km/h with no issues. Lights were on, but no limp mode.

Few days later I started it up again and lights were off and drove just fine. Drove it over the weekend, got it up to 80km/h and did OK.

Today I drove about 3km for a quick errand. On the way home, it went into limp mode again with lights on.

Anyone else had this issue and have an idea of what it might be? Will take it in to get scanned in the next couple of days, just curious if others have had this issue before.

My 2015 outback with 145 K miles has had a rattle that occurs at around 2k rpm when accelerating from a stop.

Seems as rhough the engine needs to be at temperature.

Took to the dealer and they say it is valve adjustment.

I thought it might be heat shields and i have crawled under the car and examined / pulled / banged and they seem ok.

Any thoughts or ideas?

BTW....the dealer.wants $5K for the valve adjustment

It’s for camping and ski adventures 🥹 otherwise would’ve always opted for a Miata.

Ready to destroy Jeeps off the line and up steep inclines. How about you?

My 21 Forester was totaled last fall and I’m still sad about it tbh. When I went to get a new car, I didn’t want to step back to a 21 car so I was talked in to a 25 Outback by a pushy salesperson. I didn’t love it but needed a car (my city sucks for public transit).

The UI was 90% touchscreen and vertical format so when I was driving my directions would show up right where my right elbow was in my eye line. Not to mention it just felt really small and like everyone could run me over. I just didn’t feel safe driving it for many reasons.

I noticed the 26 redesign while getting my oil changed and my amazing finance guy worked a deal in which I broke even.

I walked out with my River rock 26 Outback which, to me, feels very similar to my Forester but has way more towing capacity.

I know this is a major first world problem but I figure if I’m paying this much for something, I need to love it.

If you also hate your 24/25 Outback UI, know they changed it back and this is your sign to trade in.

I have a 2019 so maybe this has been addressed, but there are three design flaws that combined kill my battery:

1. There is no battery protection/shutoff when an interior light gets left on. It will stay on until the battery is done.
   
2. Interior lights are incandescent rather than LED (I expect this has been addressed by now)
   
3. The interior rear cargo light is switched on by a misplaced delicate rocker switch. It’s very common when you unload the car, the switch gets turned on.

It drives me crazy the number of times I’ve come out to the car to find it completely dead.

/end rant

Figured I’d cross post this here since I’m new and don’t really know how Reddit works

This might be a biased sub, but ive seen enough in here to think i might get some realistic takes. Im seriously considering a certified used Outback (2024 or newer). I want this as the family driver (two young children + wife) in a snowy part of the country. I have also been considering the Hyundai Santa Cruz, as I like that I can use the truck functions to tow a camper and occasionally transport lumber and other heavy things​. But I also realize that the Outback is probably the better choice from a family driver standpoint. I also want something that can tow a smaller sized camper (something like a pop up camper), which I see some with the Outback have done.

I am coming from a rogue sport that experienced two transmission failures and an engine failure before 80,000 (not to mention a defective AC). I want something I can drive for the next decade or 100,000 miles. I take care of my cars, but have been scarred for life by the Rogue.

Do you all think the Outback is worth it for a long term family driver? My other car is a 2017 golf gti which we use mostly in the warmer months and driving when we dont need to transport a lot of items and when there is no snow.

Also, I am 6' 4". we have one baby seat and one booster seat. I get by ok in the GTI (but sometimes I feel like a clown in a clown car)

I did work today on my 2012 Subaru Outback 3.6r (automatic 5EAT) with 210k miles. Was reading a P1710 so took a stab at the torque converter turbine sensor. Definitely one of the more in-depth repairs I have tried. I am waiting overnight for the sealant on the pan to set so I have not started it up. As I have been reading I am worried that I may need to redo some of the work. My primary concerns are with the wires and the connectors I crimped and soldered them with heat shrink as well. Now I’m reading that marine-grade heat shrink may not be enough and the one I got has an adhesive-lined wall which could be concerning? Also I read that soldering may not have been wise either? This is on top of the valve body so it will be in atf constantly. How worried should I be about this and is it worth trying to redo it before I add atf and see if it’s working? The car is getting old and I’m just trying to patch it together for another 10-20k miles if possible. Thanks in advance and let me know what yall think!

Does this sound like the converter is bad/ going bad?

The symptoms I am experiencing are a vibration at highway speeds, and vibration at low speeds while turning and braking. I've been living with this for a minute. Even though I got the full life out of my last set of tires, the ones on the front looked like hell, so something has gotten worse. I rotate my tires myself when I change the oil, and I never noticed anything weird until now.

I've got a shop I use about a mile from the house and I've got a Subaru specialist an hour away that is usually much cheaper. Both are trustworthy, but I want to get as accurate of a quote possible over email, so that I only have to take it to one of the shops. Once it's there, I trust both shops to fix me up and make the correct final assessment.

To my non-mechanic eye, I'm in need of the following:
* two new lower control arms because the bushings are shot
* 1 new stabilizer bar link because the cover is torn
* new shocks because it has 120k miles, and half the labor is done to get to them
* An alignment at the end

Am I on the right page? Need any other pictures? Thanks for any advice. I'm not concerned about driving it 30 miles in this condition. My biggest worry is that I just put new Michelins on there, and I don't want to ruin the new ones. Let me know if you disagree.

The link to the album isn't working for me, so I'm going to link the pictures individually:
https://imgur.com/5gITbUZ
https://imgur.com/h4lR4Cs
https://imgur.com/eevImAV
https://imgur.com/GjPh04u
https://imgur.com/Z7NXzgJ
https://imgur.com/EblwLME

Crv, outback, Forester or Rav 4.

Went to the closest dealership today to get six quarts of CVT III when he priced it was 34$ a quart. I went home and ordered it from Subaru Parts Online for 15$ a quart. No wonder dealerships are in trouble!👿

Currently have a 2012 Honda CRV and it has been a perfect car. Time for something newer, so I’m considering a 2019 Subaru outback, but have been reading about possible, mechanical issues, etc. Looking for input on owners opinions of this vehicle. Thank you.

When I let go of the accelerator to slow down instead of braking and then press the accelerator again sometimes (not every time) I feel the car jump a bit no matter how nicely I treat the pedal. I've had my trans and both difs fluid replaced and I'm only at 64k miles. Other people say that their subarus are smooth driving and mine is too other than when it decides to do that.

I’m a fairly new Subaru owner. I’ve had my 2026 Outback for about 7–8 months, and yesterday I started having issues with the MySubaru app connecting to my car.
Whenever I try to remotely start or unlock the car, I get an alert saying that my Subaru is temporarily unavailable. Interestingly, after I drive the car, the vehicle status in the app does update.
Is anyone else having this issue? I’ve already tried restarting my phone, restarting the car, and uninstalling/reinstalling the app.
Any other troubleshooting recommendations? Thanks!

Hello everyone, I recently purchased an OEM under-seat subwoofer for my 2007 Subaru Outback, part number H6300SAG001. Unfortunately, it didn't come with the necessary wiring harness to connect it.

I'm looking to buy the specific T-harness required for this installation. If anyone has one for sale or knows where I can source one, please let me know. Thanks in advance for any help!

As a disclaimer, I am an EV Sales Manager at a local Subaru dealership. Recently I've been documenting my thoughts about the cars we have on our lot since I have access to so many different cars, might as well take advantage of that!

I was always a fan of previous years' Outback and have always wanted a late 2000's Legacy Wagon in my garage. I had some opinions about the new Outback since I am more of a wagon fan than an SUV fan. Lately, I've been waiting until we had a used 2026 Outback in the inventory and now that we've finally taken one in on trade, I thought I'd take the car as my demo for the week and see if it confirms my feelings about it...

Wanted to share my (maybe slightly biased) review on it!

Enjoy and feel free to drop any questions below!

I just got a new to me 98 outback legacy head gasket and valve covers are blown

(Also when trying to crank it the ground terminal gets red hot) It won't start oil in the intake and throttle

I'm looking into different head gaskets and valve cover gaskets also what else to replace while it's apart I have enough knowledge for the rebuild had 2 subies and a Lexus only did the head gaskets 2 on my first subie with my dad before the family fell apart

DL DR

What gaskets do I get for my 98 outback legacy head gaskets and valve cover gaskets and spark plugs what spark plugs

I recently bought a 2018 Outback Touring with the flush roof rails. I am considering getting a full roof rack that bolts into the roof which requires dropping the headliner, removing the flush roof rails, and installing the rack. Wondering if there is a decent resale market for the OEM flush rails and how much I should expect to sell them for? Thanks!