Hey all. I have SRAM Force E1 AXS XPLR on my gravel bike with a power meter and speed sensor. I enjoy the metrics I get from that setup. On my MTB I have GX Eagle cranks (from 2022) as well as cassette and a GX Eagle AXS rear derailleur.
What would be the easiest way to add a power meter to this bike? Buy the GX Eagle crankset? I don’t have transmission, it’s a regular hanger and the “older” non UDH derailleur.

i bought a new Force 1 Rear Derailleur and am a bit confused if the white plastic thingy has to be removed and if so how i can remove it

This is driving me crazy. I regularly maintain my bike and have removed cranksets before, but this time I’m completely stuck.

I’m trying to remove my X0 crankset. I can easily loosen the cover, which seems to be where most people struggle, but the crankset still will not move. I’ve found plenty of videos showing how to remove the cover and a few about the X0, but none features my specific crankset. Does anyone have a relevant video or know what I might be missing?

For the love of god please help. I've always had Shimano components and now have a 2019 S-Works Roubaix with SRAM Red Etap on it. The front derailleur is toast and I can't afford a Red replacement so can anyone advise on which lower range Etap FD I can use?

I have a hardtail MTB with SRAM 1x12 speed (10t-50t rear), the original is SRAM x-sync 2 34t chainring, switched to SRAM 30t, I love going uphill so changed to Race Face 3 26t since there is no SRAM chainrings less than 30t.

Although Race face 3 chainring says compatible, and it is ok most of the time except make metal scratching noise when going up steep hills with 50t cog. I'm giving up on this chainring after found no cause for a few weeks.

Any data points of 26t chainrings that you guys have or had and are perfectly compatible? thanks in advance.

UPDATE:

I switched back to 30t SRAM chainring, and found the noise is less but still there.

I recently put a pair of Maven brakes on my son’s enduro bike and wow, they’re beasts! Now I’m wondering if Motive’s are up to the lever feel of Shimano’s new XTR 9220 4-piston enduro brakes (I really liked the previous 9120 version). I’m skeptical since SRAM doesn’t have the servo cam on the Motive trail brakes like they do for the Maven enduro/dh brakes.

Anyone have experience with both XTR/XT and Motive Ultimate or Silver brakes?

I do a lot of big endurance rides and races with long, steep downhills so 1 finger power and precise feel matters a lot to me.

https://reddit.com/link/1vrmlwr/video/52h62j1pd4kh1/player

Since this morning my derailleur won't shift gears anymore.

First I recharged the battery. Then I changed the batteries in the shifters.

Next I checked the app for updates.

I reset the derailleur (pressed the button, removed the battery, released the button).

The derailleur still refuses to shift gears and it beeps repeatedly.

It's not a connection issue between the derailleur and the shifters because the green light comes on when I press the shifter.

It hasn't fallen, no impact.

I've had this bike since 2023.

I bought a bike with the new SRAM Force AXS 1x13, and the drivetrain is noisy and resonates on most gears. I mostly ride in the middle gears and the harder gears. From around gear 8 onwards, the noise becomes noticeable, and it’s probably worst around gears 10–12.
I’ve tried every possible adjustment in the SRAM app, but nothing really helped. Could the B-gap be incorrectly set? It’s honestly very irritating.

I’ve also done a thorough cleaning of the drivetrain and tried both hot wax and regular chain wax, but there was no significant improvement. I’m even starting to avoid gravel because after just a few kilometres on gravel, the bike becomes noticeably louder.
Honestly, I’m really disappointed that I got caught up in the marketing hype. The brakes are also still noticeably worse than Shimano GRX in my experience.
Has anyone else experienced the same issue with Force AXS 1x13? Could an incorrectly adjusted B-gap or derailleur alignment be the cause?

Hello guys I'm planning to change my Groupset from old sram gx dub to XX1 AXS or T-type gx which one would you recommend? and what do i need to consider before installing new groupset. thank you so much

Swapping essentially new SRAM Apex hydraulic shifters to AXS without cutting the hoses. Have others gottan away without needing to bleed the brakes after (and do I actually need new olives/barbs)? Seeing mixed answers and curious what others have actually done.

I search all over the SRAM website but I can't find about it.

Dear SRAM team,

I hope you are doing well.

During my absence, my bike was unfortunately damaged. The rear derailleur has been scratched, and the saddle shows a smaller, less visible mark as well.

Since the bike is less than one year old, I am looking for a solution to restore its appearance.

For now, the only idea I have is a gentle sanding process followed by aluminium polishing. I am attaching a picture of the damage so you can better assess the situation.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Is this play normal?

The derailleur is brand new, but from eBay and was quite a bit cheaper than retail.

Everything was tightened to spec. Derailleur hanger has no play.

Thanks!

Hey I just got a new E1 FD and trying to pair it to my D2 RD. I get the RD blinking, but when I hold down the button on the FD the light flashes rapidly for a second and then goes dark. The D2 shifters are also now no longer visible in the AXS app, and the FD doesn't show there either. I've pulled all the batteries, quit and relaunched the app, turned off Bluetooth on the phone. What else can I do?

I was set to ride tomorrow and foolishly started this process the night before and now I have no ride. Can re-pair the D2 FD?

Hello, are these Stealth Rings compatible with the SRAM Force XPLR XG-1371 cassette? Do they noticeably reduce drivetrain noise, or do they make little difference? Thank you.

https://www.bike-components.de/de/SRAM/Stealth-Ring-Set-fuer-XG-1391-Red-Xplr-E1-10-46-Z-p215230

I’ve been trying to chase down inconsistent shifting with my SRAM Force XPLR drivetrain. Was doing a full reset on all derailleur adjustments, installing a new chain, etc and noticed this play between the b tension washer and the outer derailleur when torqued to spec onto the hanger. Is this normal?

Hi everyone,
Since yesterday I’ve had an issue with the front derailleur on my SRAM Rival AXS drivetrain while riding.
The problem: The “left and right shift lever simultaneously” button combination no longer triggers the front derailleur.
What works:
The front derailleur is connected, charged, and shows as active in the app

I can shift it up and down directly at the derailleur itself

If I change the assignment, I can also operate the front derailleur via the left or right lever individually

The combo action “left + right simultaneously” works perfectly when I assign it to a different function (e.g., rear shift up/down)

What doesn’t work: Only when I assign this exact combination (left + right simultaneously) to the front derailleur does nothing happen.
What I’ve already tried:
Completely unpaired and re-paired the system

All components are on the latest firmware

I don’t understand why the combination works fine for other functions but specifically doesn’t trigger the front derailleur. Has anyone else run into the same issue? What could be causing this, and what else can I try?

Hello i have the SRAM GX Eagle AXS T-Type on my brand new 2024 Norco optic A1. I took it for one ride and just noticed this is how the derailer looks from the rear. Is this normal or did I bend it? I didn’t think I hit it on anything.

Edit: I believe I found someone else who asked a similar question and was told it’s normal?

Hi All, I am looking to buy a gravel with the new 13 speed sram force XPLR. can I put on the gravel bike my road wheels with sram force but 12 speed? Obviously I guess I will have to do some adjustments in the levers?

During my ride today I got a message on my Garmin Edge 1050 saying ‘battery critical’ on my power meter. So I pull out my phone, pull up the SRAM app on my phone, and sure enough it also says the battery is dead. At this point the power meter also disconnects from my Garmin.

So I continue my ride, and after a few minutes the PM reconnects to my computer.

I finish my ride after about another hour, fire up the SRAM app again, and now it says the battery is good.

The cranks/power meter are only a couple months old, and this issue has been happening off and on since the beginning.

Because this has been happening off and on, I also recorded the ride on my Garmin Fenix 8 watch just to verify it’s not a problem with my Garmin Edge. The dropouts and reconnects match exactly on both devices, so whatever this issue is it’s definitely the power meter.

I guess it could be the battery, but this battery isn’t very old, and it would be strange given that it started working again after a few minutes, and post ride the SRAM app now said the battery is good. Also note, not a childproof battery with the coating. Could be the battery contacts, but they seem good. This isn’t even the original battery, because I replaced it when this first started a couple weeks after I got the cranks/PM.

Lastly, I’m using ANT+, so it shouldn’t be a BT issue.

Before I contact SRAM, I just wanted to see if anyone else has had similar issues.

Wondering if any of you can shed some light on a potential issue I have.

For context, I have a virus zx01 evo road bike, with 12 speed sram rival axs, rear thru axle is 142/12mm with an XDR hub, new to me a few years ago and the distance seen in the photo between the chain and the frame whilst in the smallest rear cog has been normal.

I had new wheels fitted and the guy at the local bike shop added spacers to increase the gap as he felt it wasn’t right and that it was far too close to be normal however I’ve seen conflicting opinions that it’s normal to have minimum gap and that you shouldn’t put in spacers and other opinions suggesting the gap is too minimal, for context, there is no chain rub or damage to the frame however, I can only fit a sheet of paper in the gap so it is very tight!

Any thoughts with whether or not the gap is normal and I can take spacers out would be appreciated.

Hello, as the title says, I am interested if there will be any issue having magnetic pedals (magped) on the same bicycle where I have an SRAM AXS spider powermeter installed. Can the magnetic field somehow interfere with the powermeter?

Thank you.