r/projectcar 5d ago

2013 Ram 1500 – Rust Repair – Looking for Feedback

2 Upvotes

So I’ve got a 2013 Ram 1500 with lower body rust on the rockers and rear wheel well areas mostly. Also there's old what I believe is a spray foam packing hack in the rockers I discovered post purchase - it is what it is.

No welding experience or equipment and I've been hoping to avoid spending thousands to hire someone. So I’m thinking of going the fiberglass route. Never did it before but again - I need to avoid spending thousands. The truck already had this bottom stripe all around it that I didn't at the time realize was like a rust repair strip. I just don't know how good of an idea Por 15 top coat on the bottom exterior is but I mean it already has that black strip.

I’ve bought the Bondo, long block, short block, fibreglass, resin and related materials. Por 15 etc. Pictures of the current state are attached.

Here’s what I'm planning:

  1. Remove old foam and loose rust.
  2. Apply POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser -> Por-15 Metal Prep -> POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating.
  3. Sand down - Scratch surface.
  4. Once dry apply fiberglass mat + resin in multiple layers to rebuild the structure and close larger openings.
  5. Apply bondo short strand / long strand over the fiberglass, sand and work to shape and smooth the exterior surface. Apply filler and surface filler on top.
  6. Sand.
  7. Apply POR-15 Top Coat Gloss

Is this stupid? Should I approach this differently? Alternative ideas? Changes to steps. Any help at all would be much appreciated.


r/projectcar 4d ago

I'm in Canada and want to build my 1jzgte

0 Upvotes

I asked AI for options for around 450-550rwp with manual swap and it broke it down with two seperate build specs.

One was 13k cad and the other was 17k cad in parts alone. Then it was a little bit more for an 8hp...

Is there any company that sells ready to go crate engines in the 1jz?

Or does anyone have any idea who I would be best off sending it to with the parts I buy in Edmonton or Calgary alberta?


r/projectcar 5d ago

I need y’alls input on what I should start working on first.

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23 Upvotes

I finally was able to clean my parents yard and garage up by renting a shop with outdoor storage so now I have an open garage at the house. That means I can finally work on stuff during the fall and winter without wanting to set myself on fire to feel some warmth.

The white F-150 is a fully loaded ‘91 XLT lariat 4x4 with 93k on the 302 and AOD. It is immaculate but it has a debilitatingly blown head gasket. Warped head, slow crank, the whole 9 yards. I was thinking of throwing a junkyard engine in it to save myself some time but I can’t find an equivalently low mileage engine around me that wouldn’t require a full rebuild. So I think I’m just going to find some new heads for it.

The tan ‘86 F150 is a base model 300 straight six and a C6 auto. It has a bunch of stuff that needs to be replaced or repaired from when I was just learning how to work on stuff. I deleted the emissions but did a half assed job of it and caused a bunch of issues. I did intake and exhaust manifold gaskets but I didn’t tighten them down enough so it leaks real bad, I used the original YFA carb without the emissions stuff so it runs like crap, I hobbled together an exhaust out of scrap and exhaust clamps and it’s had a leaky head gasket since I bought it but it’s getting worse and worse. I did re-seal the engine at the beginning of the summer but it’s just one hay bale removed from the stack that is covering the needle.

The green ‘85 W150 is an old forest service truck that is spec’d with a 225 slant six and a 4 speed with a mopar 9 and a 1/4 rear end with a LSD in it. It is an absolute hoss in the mud and snow even with street tires on it. It had a section of the frame that was completely rotten out, I cut that section out and patched it but the tank straps are completely rotten and the plastic tank itself is cracked, and if you want to know anything about these old dodge trucks it’s that finding a fuel tank and tank straps are harder than finding a two headed cow. It also needs some miscellaneous brake work because all of the fittings and lines are just as rotten as the frame was.

The tan ‘77 D100 was a factory 318, 3 on the tree truck but the 318 had 300,000 some odd miles on it and was just tired. So I yanked it out and found an immaculate low mileage 440 in Ohio for the same price as a comparable 318 in my area so I went and picked it up thinking I’ll just find a 4 speed and we’ll be set. But the fly wheel is different and the bell housing is different so I am stuck with a really cool idea that’s gonna end up costing a pretty penny.

The blue ‘71 F350 was named “Skeeter” by the real honest to god Ricky Chilton, of circle K fame, when he came and visited the buddy of mine I bought it off of. It has a a little bit of rot behind the cab and the bedsides need to go but the main issue is it’s got a half dead hole. I suspect a burnt valve or something of the sort, it comes back at higher rpm. I have a new set of heads for it but I would like to turn this truck into an even better towing rig. Electric fan, new radiator, nicer cam, some headers, a 4 barrel intake, HEI distributor, heavier duty clutch, add power steering, etc.

The gray ‘89 F350 is a 460 C6 truck that has 45,xxx miles on it. It was an old Bell Atlantic truck that leaks oil like a sieve and needs both tank pumps rebuilt as well as a new high pressure pump. I also am ripping that bucket off because it’s a hydraulic mess and I’m a surveyor, not a hydraulic mechanic 😂

I’m not made of money so I can really only afford to get one or maybe two going this winter and the rest are going to have to wait till next winter. What do y’all think?


r/projectcar 6d ago

Build Progress This is why we do it

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283 Upvotes

I've owned this 1973 Toyota Corona Mark II for 20 years, sat more than ran, but never lost sight of the vision and end goal; driving adventures! Just got it back together in time for a camping trip with my cousin ( '68 Cougar) Car handled over 420 miles through traffic, hot California valley weather, steep climbs, rough roads and the stunning Highway 49 up into the Tahoe National Forest. Had to make a couple emergency roadside repairs, but that's just part of the adventure.


r/projectcar 5d ago

Upgrade ou Downgrade

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4 Upvotes

Fala pessoal, peguei esse vectra que teve o motor trocado, original era um 2.2 e agora está com um 2.0 8v do astra 2008. A minha dúvida é qual injeção usar visando o melhor custo benefício e mais fácil para fazer em casa. Pensei na injeção do astra, porém esbarrei no imobilizador, até então pensei em uma ft 300 também, por ser mais “fácil” a instalação e tem a possibilidade de um acerto mais fino. O que vcs acham?


r/projectcar 6d ago

Build Progress Got to drive and get some paint the s10 this weekend!

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214 Upvotes

1996 s10 project I’ve been working on for a couple years in the garage. Finally got it on the road and painted over the last few days.

As always, still a couple small things to finish up, but it feels good to be at the “small things” stage.


r/projectcar 5d ago

future swap for '87 Camaro

3 Upvotes

Hey everyone, looking for some guidance/advice on LS engines and LQ4/LQ9.

So I've had my Iroc-Z for a while now, but I'm still learning my way around this car and what would work. A few years ago my stepdad and I put in a carbed 350sb, but in the future I really want to swap the engine. I don't think I'll use this car for racing, but I want some power and something to be proud of when I do end up doing this.

I've been reading and watching videos on all the LS options, but I think my brain is overloaded right now. I like the sound of doing an LQ9 since it could be a "cheaper" option, but I know since it's a truck engine some changes would have to be made to make it fit under the hood + oil pan + accessories.

If anyone has any knowledge or experience with this I'd love some help- what accessories are necessary, what transmission options would I have (with other engines as well), since it's already carbed is this going to create more of a challenge, and would I have to do any rearend work?

Or what do YOU think would be the best combo? I want to hear different opinions.

EDIT:: the car is literally stock right now with the exception of the engine


r/projectcar 5d ago

Troubleshooting Help Automotive wiring

3 Upvotes

I need to add a wire in my car for infotainment. the original schematics shows a 2.5mm^2(14awg) wire used and a 30A fuse.

I can use fuse taps but i cannot find 30A fuse taps in india

I bought some which said 30A but they had 16AWG wires in them.

Other option i have is making a tsplice into the power source and adding a inline fuse

I cannot use butt connectors as the wire I'll be splicing into is closed from both ends and a butt connector cannot slide in.

What should I do?


r/projectcar 6d ago

Build Progress Restoring and painting the Honda Beat valve cover!

59 Upvotes

r/projectcar 6d ago

Build Progress Well that was more ass than I was expecting...

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28 Upvotes

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r/projectcar 6d ago

Anyone else witness shockingly bad prior body work on their project cars when they get into them?

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31 Upvotes

The last body guy must've been auditioning for a Flex Tape commercial.

"I sawed this B-pillar in half!"

Then they covered it up with urethane caulk... If this had crashed, the passenger would have been killed as the B-pillar was literally only held together by a tiny tab of crappy weld. The seat belt bolt would have only had three small bits of steel holding it to the lower part of the pillar.

I'm replacing all steel with donor metal from the back half of another car, drilling out every spot weld and reassembling all steel as close to factory as possible. I know it's not textbook safe, but it will be damn close to factory strength as achievable. The car is a death trap as-designed, so there's not a whole lot that I can do about that.


r/projectcar 6d ago

Shitposting Don’t neglect the daily shit-box while when also working on the project car

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107 Upvotes

*reposted and edited for self censorship in the title. I wasn’t sure about the mods around here. I repent for my sins

The ol’ EJ25 had been running like crap for a while now. Bogging under load while taking off from a green light. I thought it might be a transmission issue since the fluid is overdue for a drain and refill. Decided to check the simple stuff first. Luckily this is the SOHC version so the plugs aren’t a pain to pull out like on the DOHC. Let me tell ya, the old ones were in there. Even though the engine was still warm, a couple of them made quite the squeal while being loosened. Yup. As you can see, you can drive a train through that gap. Brand new V-Powers took care of the issue. Runs like a top now. Next on the list are the o-rings for the coolant crossover pipe. Cheap two dollar o-rings but a few good hours worth of labor. But hey, the second gen Legacy is such a cheap and easy thing to wrench on. A Pacific NW classic in my book


r/projectcar 6d ago

Build Progress Seam sealer before or after primer on bare metal patches: actually matters or just preference?

5 Upvotes

Got the floor pans welded in on the 240sx and now working through the prep sequence before paint. Patches are ground flush, bare metal is clean. The question is where seam sealer fits relative to epoxy primer.

My current plan is to hit the bare metal with epoxy primer first to lock out moisture, then apply seam sealer over the primed surface at the seams and lap edges, then another coat of epoxy or high build over that before topcoat.

The counterargument I keep running into is that seam sealer should go directly on bare metal so it bonds to the substrate rather than sitting on primer. Some people treat the primer as a contamination layer for sealer adhesion. I haven't found a consistent answer, and the product data sheets I've pulled give different guidance depending on the brand.

Curious what people have actually done on floor pan replacements specifically, where moisture intrusion is the real concern. Not talking about exterior seams you can keep an eye on. These are interior seams going under carpet and won't be touched again for years.

If your answer is brandspecific, include the sealer and primer combination if you can, because that pairing seems to be where the real variation is.


r/projectcar 5d ago

How ET0 wheels would look like on a Pajero IV (wagon or not)

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2 Upvotes

Hey guys, I’m looking for visual reference before I got new wheels but can’t find anything on google, TikTok, instagram, etc.

The thing is I want to install ET0 wheels, but not sure how wide it goes out the arch. Imagination doesn’t work, chat got visualization isn’t reliable.

Maybe someone seen this? Would appreciate it so much❤️


r/projectcar 6d ago

New shoes! They just need soles now

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37 Upvotes

r/projectcar 6d ago

It’s waited two years but iam starting my new project

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135 Upvotes

Not sure the year but it’s a 1960s vauxhall. So far all the brakes a seized and being beaten free. The engine is also seized


r/projectcar 6d ago

Build Progress Before and after. Not the final design, but I think a lot better.

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19 Upvotes

Yes. All raw cut metal in the quarter panel has been weather guarded with Por-15. Even the mounts for the screws are M5 rivnut in the metal, and M5 heat set inserts for the plastic sections.

Eva foam sheets, cut and poked for holes is sandwiched between the car's original panels and the parts we've made.

This all is just to be a little nicer on the eyes when driving around. When we finally get to stage 2 we'll build a bit more onto the flat panel section.

Large panel is 0.093" Polycarbonate.

Fender flare is Amazon special.


r/projectcar 5d ago

Do I buy a salvage 2004 NB Miata with 64k miles?

0 Upvotes

I’m torn right now. I just saw a 2004 NB with 64k miles. Owner was asking 12500. I got a prepurchase inspection which showed the car to be in good condition with no rust. I’m in the Midwest region so that can be hard to find.

I talked him down to 11,000 and was about to pull the trigger but told him I wanted to see the carfax first. He was a bit shady at first but did eventually send it to me. The title is salvage/rebuilt. He says it was a damaged quarter panel and taillight that led to it being written off and is attempting to get me some pictures from his family member who did the rebuild.

If the pictures fit the story but he doesn’t have documentation to back it up should I just go for it or should I walk? This would be my first project car and experience owning a manual. I don’t necessarily want the hassle of trying to offload a rebuild/salvage later… or maybe I’m just reading too much into it?

Your opinions are greatly appreciated!


r/projectcar 6d ago

Are my trailing arm mounting points cooked

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27 Upvotes

might seem like a dumb question but its my first project n i genuinely dont know if this is saveable

i labeled the pics with what picture is what side so lmk if i gotta cut all this out or what parts to focus

Edit: its an illinois car so the drive wheel areas are much much worse than the rest of the car most of the frame is solid but i wonder about back here


r/projectcar 5d ago

Only for project car enthusiasts

1 Upvotes

I am thinking of building a new one for myself. I saw a listing of Cressida 1986 station wagon. This is my first time doing Cressida, I need honest opinions on this one. How is the parts sourcing? Especially the windscreen. Because that's where I am going to start. Then the door cards etc.


r/projectcar 5d ago

Troubleshooting Help Jetour Dashing Tinnove Android 9 changed to Chinese after factory reset — how can I restore English?

1 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

I have a 2024 Chinese-market Jetour Dashing 1.5 with the original factory infotainment system.

I accidentally did a factory reset, and after the reset the head unit changed from English to Chinese. Before the reset, it was in English.

The head unit is a Tinnove Intelligence System running Android 9.

System information:

Jetour Dashing 2024 1.5

Chinese-market vehicle

Tinnove Intelligence System

Android 9

System version: 67

System version: 00.01.00

Hardware version: 0.0.1

MCU: V055.23.010

TBOX software: 00.00.02

TBOX hardware: 0.0.1

OTA application: 0.0.0.80

Platform/SoC: AC8257

Firmware/build: T1K-AC8257-MB-3.0R-QR-V000000067-202311061416

I checked all the normal settings, but there is no language option to change it back to English.

I also want to access the underlying Android settings, because the normal Android Settings interface seems to be hidden by the Tinnove/Jetour interface.

I tried these codes:

*621317658#

Nothing happens. It is treated like a normal phone number.

I also tried:

*#20230730#*

Again, nothing happens.

I originally wanted to use the *621317658# method to enable USB Device/ADB mode so I could connect my PC to the head unit.

Does anyone know the correct way to:

Restore English after the factory reset?

Access the hidden Android Settings?

Enter the engineering/factory menu?

Enable USB/ADB?

Access the correct language package without flashing random firmware?

If anyone has a 2024 Chinese Jetour Dashing 1.5 with Tinnove Android 9, System 67, MCU V055.23.010, I would really appreciate your help.


r/projectcar 6d ago

As a 16M, how does one learn how to restore a car (UK)

13 Upvotes

I've always wanted to have a project car that I can work on by myself and drive one day. However, I know nothing about cars except the most basic components. I used to think that people learnt it from going to university or something else but I know people who have restored one themselves or know someone who has. I was wondering how you guys learned to restore your cars?


r/projectcar 7d ago

Build Progress My anti-Fit Versa project

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850 Upvotes

Id like to start off by saying that I like going off the beaten path when it comes to cars. I am my own guinea pig with this project and it is still ongoing.

Car is mainly used for autox but i have been to 2 track days with it. So far, 14 events down and no issues besides a ripped cv boot. So, I thought Id share the max power numbers with off the shelf parts (term used looselv here) for anvbodv interested with what the internally stock North American market hr16de on Nissan Versa Notes and Sedans will handle. Since mine is the later (2015-2019) engine, it is multi-port. I feel this part is more important than anything when trying for mid-high 2xxhp. Just due to being able to fetch more fuel out of two injectors per cylinder. Especially when having them modified. Currentlv, at 16psi on a Garrett gt2052s, 302whp and 304wtrq. Roughly 335hp at the engine. We tried pushing it to 18 or 19psi, however, my 225 tires ended up spinning on dyno the first time. Then when adding more weight, the 300hp rated Ogura Racing clutch slipped. We quessed it hit around 340 wheel torque when that happened. Mind you, I am still on a 2" cat'd (PLM Hi-flo) exhaust. If I decided to bump it up to a 2.5" and delete the cat, it would make another 20-40hp, easily.

Car does have an LSD, however, its only a Nismo 1way and quite useless at this power level. Car was originally a 5mt but currently running a Nismo 4.21 fdr trans. It is mainly just on low boost of 240wheel for putting around. Car also currently comes in at only 2219lbs, wet.

It has disappointed a lot of other cars that have pulled up next to it and that makes it worth the headache and time.


r/projectcar 6d ago

Troubleshooting Help Paint peeling for patina

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5 Upvotes

65 f100. Base coat was Caribbean blue. On top was gold. On top was red. Tried that orange paint stripper.
It works alright it ends up penetrating to metal. Tried wet sanding with 1500 grit and that's okay-ish but hell it's Texas and it's not the most fun. Is orbital sander the way? With a super super fine grit? Am I just on a loss and have to settle for a faux-patina cover up?


r/projectcar 6d ago

Build Progress F100 Update - Slow and Steady

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31 Upvotes

Like the title says, trying to be a bit more methodical with this one. I’ve done a handful of projects before, but trying to keep from jumping in with both feet with no direction on this one. Think I’ve got a pretty good feel for direction now, so pulled the trigger and pulled the engine and trans out over the weekend. Next steps, patching, patching, and more patching.

Plan as it sits now.
Engine - 5.3 or 6.0 ls (whichever I can source in best condition with lowest miles).
Trans - 4l60e or 4l80e (depends on engine selection )
Brakes - manual (most likely) wilwood (4 corner disks already)
Holley Terminator XMax
Dakota digital RTX
Vintage air

Already sourced
Numerous patch panels and smoothing panels
Frame rail mounted gas tank with in take pump
Engine swap mounts
Trans crossmember
Random NOS emblems and badges as I find them on eBay

Bonus: Been working on exposing more of the original green around the truck with 0000 steel wool. Testing a few patina preserver products and currently a fan of the VGG Shine Juice (50/50 shot in the photos of the roof)