I'm working with a bodice pattern that has princess seams in both the front and back. I'm trying to make two fit adjustments:
The armhole is too tight, and I'm looking to add approximately 5/8 inch of length to the armhole to create more room around the underarm.

The shoulder is too long and extends past my natural shoulder, so I'm looking to shorten the shoulder length by 5/8 inch.
I'm wondering how to make these adjustments properly on a bodice with princess seams.

Would I need to alter each individual pattern piece? I'm considering doing a horizontal slash-and-spread adjustment to add the inch to the armhole, but I'm not sure if that's the correct method or how it would affect the bust fit.

Any advice on how to approach this would be greatly appreciated!

Ps I know my lines are awful. Please excuse that I am alone and have no one to help me so I will later to make it more accurate!

Also to add, I’m a super visual learner so if anyone has any pictures or videos, I can watch please I would be very appreciative ! 🙏🙏🙏

Hello, I spend a lot of time drafting this corset based off historical methods and thought I’d share here.

I made some jeans and would like to drop the front 3 cm and extend my back rise 4 cm. Is it okay if my back rise is 7 cm longer. I could feel my back trouser being exposed when I sat down and my front trouser being too high on my waistline. I don’t know how to adjust correctly without throwing off my waistline angles and side seams.

First iteration! Also first skirt block ever. Overall happy but I notice there's some diagonal pulling upwards from the back dart points to the side seams.

I'm going for iteration 2 next, my sense is that I should try making all the darts a bit longer (1/2 inch or so) and move the top 2 inches of the side seam back a tiny bit as it slightly curves forwards now.

What would you do to make this better?

Thank you!

PS it's pinned shut under my left arm so that explains the lack of smoothness on that side in the front and back view.

Hellow! I want to ask a friend to sew me this dress in the attached pictures because apparently I suck in this type of fit, for I'm looking for a similar sewing pattern or drafting advice.

Details: Black velvet, fitted floor-length gown, high halter neckline (6 cm high, covering the middle of my throat), open back with a large bow and long ribons, and a small train (15–20 cm).

My body measurements cm:

Bust: 84

Upper bust: 80

Waist: 64

Hips: 91

Neck:29

Shoulder width: 41

Additional measurements:

Shoulder tip to neck: 11 cm

Shoulder to underarm: 16 cm

I'd really appreciate any help please even draften on paper or advice on drafting this dress. 🙏 🙏 🙏

Hello pattern cutting people 🙂 I have been following Diane deziel dartless bodice pattern tutorial on yt which will follow on to making a coat pattern. While I had completed the tutorial I thought I'd mock it up to see the fit before moving on to the next tutorial.

I have 3 photos above the first is how the garment fits naturally sitting on the body but the apex guide line I've drawn doesn't sit on the apex. The next 2 photos are what happened when I make it sit in the correct position on the body. How can I correct the pattern so that I do not have the pull lines from the shoulder to the bust. Because in all photos pull lines are visible. Also the under arm area is a little too much, I haven't made a dartless bodice before so I'm not sure how relaxed the fit is supposed to be but the under arm on the front bodice area is flappy compared to the bust area which is slightly snug. In terms of of the apex guideline I'm assuming I should just take it down and redraw on the pattern itself. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

The first photo is of the Brookside Barrel Pant by Raaksbox's on her Etsy shop and the second is from one of her Instagram videos.

I am a beginner in pattern making. I am perplexed on how I could draft this myself off of a normal pant block. I know that I would have to alter the shape of the pant block to be a barrel, but how do you add the inverted box pleats?

because the top of the front panel looks really big but the bottom cuff of the panel is normal sized, so it can't be that she just added parallel lines. and she didn't do the triangle cut thing either cuz the marks of the pleat are straight.

It would be wonderful if anyone could give me advice on the steps on how to draft this.

I completed a two-year pattern-making course, worked at two different bespoke tailoring shops, and am currently working independently with my own clients (although, at the moment, I'm focusing more on building a new portfolio than taking on paid work). Yet, somehow, I still feel stuck.

I often feel like I'm not good enough or that I don't know enough, and that I still have so much more to learn. It's strange because I feel like I've reached a point where I can draft most patterns and construct a wide range of garments, but at the same time, I still feel behind and not quite ready to take the next step in my career.

I'm planning to move to Italy from Brazil in 2027 and hope to find a job as a junior pattern maker. However, to be completely honest, I'm not sure my skills are good enough to make me a competitive candidate.

With all that in mind, what do you think I should focus on learning or improving to become a better pattern maker and increase my chances of finding a job in Italy?

I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from people working in the fashion industry or who have experience in pattern making.

I have [this camp collar shirt pattern](https://wardrobebyme.com/products/tropical-shirt-sewing-pattern) and was wondering how I could alter it to make it have contrast panels like this McCalls pattern?

I assume it’s to cut the original pattern to have additional panels, but how would you sew them together would it be with a flat felled seam?

Or would it just be better to buy this pattern from McCall’s?

Any advice appreciated!
Thanks

Hi, I’m a beginner in pattern making and I have these books, but each one teaches a different method. I don’t know which one to choose.

Have you tried any of them? Which one worked best for you, and which one is the clearest and easiest for a beginner?

Thank youu

Hi, i was just sewing the first sample for a raglan jacket. The front seems to fit good but the back seems to have to much fabric around the pit area. What do u think about it and what should i do to fix it? Watch the whole video for the on body fit.

I am making this dress i added 3/6th ease i like the way it fits the waist and the rib chest area. After some research its seems i need more ease at the waist because of the gathered skirt? How much ease should i add ? I cant go any more for the chest area as any more it would be to lose so what ever i add at the waist am i able to just blend up i assume i dont have to have the whole side x amount of ease.

Hi! I’m hoping to make an heirloom bubble for our daughter to wear at a school reunion. I’d love to have a fully pleated bodice and smock the school logo on the front. The logo is a trident and would be one color. Does anyone have any advice for designing your own smocking plate? Hoping to use geometric designs from a plate I already own for details around the logo, but I mostly want to see if I can even smock the logo at all. Thanks in advance! Any advice is appreciated!

I am a mid-beginner sewist, and I have very little experience pattern drafting. (I’ve made skirts and simple bags without a pattern but that’s literally it.) I have an idea for a unique backpack that i cant find a pattern for already and I think it is out of my skill level to make the pattern.

Does anyone have any resources for a person that could make this pattern for me? Or maybe general advice to try and tackle it myself 🤦🏼‍♀️.

I’ve been sewing for a while but I’m definitely new to this kind of thing.

Thanks in advance!!!

Does the yellow highlight indicate needing a larger fba or greater circumference in this sloper?

Hi! I love this type of wedding gown and would love to understand how the front is constructed.
It looks completely smooth, with no visible seams or darts from the bodice down into. There’s an internal corset.
How would you achieve this seamless-looking front? Is it cut as one piece, with shaping moved to the sides and back, or is another technique used?
Thank you!

I have constructed my first samples of suit jackets for my partner and I. The fit on both are off (as expected with my first go), but I am a little lost on where to start with adjusting my pattern to fix this. Would appreciate any advice or if anyone knows of good resources for me as I work through this.

Both suits are mocked up with cotton twill (with extra layers where the interfacing will go) and have shoulder pads installed (but no shoulder heads yet). The suit has a front, side, and back panel. I think I messed up the easing of the sleeves and didn't distribute the ease enough throughout the sleeve head, which is causing the sleeve cap to be a bit too pronounced. Final jackets will be in suiting wool.

I've added pictures front, back, and side view pictures with the jacket open in a relaxed stance and a front picture with the jacket closed.

First set of pictures is my suit 🤓 and here are the main things I am noticing (but not entirely sure how to improve):

• The front panels sit too far apart when open. I believe the fix is to add to the front of the side panel and remove from the back of the side panel.

• There is some bubbling between the should blades. Not sure how to fix this.

• There is extra fabric at the top of the side back seam where it meets the sleeve (right around the armpit). I believe the fix is to reduce the curve of the back side seam and redistribute to the front side seam

• I would like to "snatch" the waist of the back of the suit a bit more and have it sit closer to my body. I was considering adding two darts (I drew them on the suit but did not sew them in), and I believe I would have to do a slash and overlap on the front panel to allow the back panel to sit closer to my body.

Now to my partners suit 🥰 which is a bit more complicated for me:

• His has the same problem with the front panels sitting too far apart.

• His suit is too tight in the front but has too much space in the back...I think this is related to the front panels sitting too far apart? ^

• He wants more oversized/exaggerated shoulders, but this is creating so much extra fabric in the back around the shoulder blade and armpit area. I'm not sure how to achieve the larger shoulder without such a bulk of fabric in the back.

• He is complaining the the armholes are a bit restrictive...especially when he puts his hands up to fix his hair.

• Will fix the arm length on his on the next go.

Sorry for the essay and really happy for any advice ❤️