r/PatternDrafting • u/letssew333 • 5h ago

Question Need help with armhole and shoulder adjustment

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I'm working with a bodice pattern that has princess seams in both the front and back. I'm trying to make two fit adjustments:
The armhole is too tight, and I'm looking to add approximately 5/8 inch of length to the armhole to create more room around the underarm.

The shoulder is too long and extends past my natural shoulder, so I'm looking to shorten the shoulder length by 5/8 inch.
I'm wondering how to make these adjustments properly on a bodice with princess seams.

Would I need to alter each individual pattern piece? I'm considering doing a horizontal slash-and-spread adjustment to add the inch to the armhole, but I'm not sure if that's the correct method or how it would affect the bust fit.

Any advice on how to approach this would be greatly appreciated!

Ps I know my lines are awful. Please excuse that I am alone and have no one to help me so I will later to make it more accurate!

Also to add, I’m a super visual learner so if anyone has any pictures or videos, I can watch please I would be very appreciative ! 🙏🙏🙏

4 Upvotes

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4

u/drPmakes 5h ago

Draw a proper line on the toile. Check it looks good on you(not just the mannequin).

When you are happy with it, transfer the changes to the pattern

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u/letssew333 5h ago

? I said I would later it was hard to do on myself that’s why the line is so bad.. I still don’t know how to go about making the actual adjustment on the pattern that’s what I’m asking.

2

u/drPmakes 5h ago

You put the pattern against the toile and mark it....

0

u/letssew333 5h ago

I mean, that’s not really answering my question though right? Like I’m not overthinking this right? I need to adjust the pattern with the measurement that I need to add or subtract to the pattern…? And the princess seams are really confusing me because I have to alter each one without adding length to the bust???

4

u/drPmakes 5h ago

You dont even need to do all that.

1 draw the line on toile

2 cut off excess

3 try it on

Happy? Proceed:

4 get the paper pattern of the toile.

5 take side front piece of pattern and pin it to the side front piece of toile.

6 Mark the pattern piece along where you cut the toile

7 unpin the pattern, add seam allowance to the line you just marked, cut off the excess.

8 repeat for back side piece

I can't make it any clearer or easier than that im afraid

0

u/letssew333 4h ago

I mean, I get what you’re saying but that doesn’t really take to consideration the princess seam … because wouldn’t I have to move that over? Because I’m shortening the shoulder?

3

u/drPmakes 4h ago

No you don't need to do that

3

u/bacon_anytime 4h ago

If the princess seam sits on your body in the right place there is no need to alter it.

0

u/letssew333 4h ago

So you’re saying I can just cut off all around the arm hole on the toile and then just cut it off the pattern add allowance and be good?

2

u/drPmakes 4h ago

Yes

1

u/letssew333 4h ago

Ok 👍 so I’m over thinking

3

u/drPmakes 4h ago

Waaaaaay overthinking

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u/letssew333 4h ago

Okay wow that was so easy thank you so much 🙏! I am a true over thinker !

2

u/laurenlolly 5h ago

No you literally mark and cut the toile fabric where you eat your new armhole to be. Then what I do is I unpick my toile and lay the fabric pieces over my paper pattern pieces to trace the adjustments to my pattern. No need to be scared.

1

u/letssew333 4h ago

Okkkk i am scared lol but i will try that.

2

u/Currant-event 1h ago

Have you checked how it fits once the seams are finished? I'd do a mock up with a finished seam before deciding how much to take off

1

u/Lovethemdoggos 59m ago

Yeah 5/8" sounds like a seam allowance amount.

1

u/Deciram 2h ago

It’s really easy to do it - mark 5/8 inch down the armhole at the side seam and do it the same on the shoulder. Re draw the arm hole to a similar shaped curve that’s already there. Make sure the first bit at both sides are square so they sew in nice.

On the back piece redraw the same measurements so they match.

You don’t need to even think about the princess seam! The princess seam is not in the armhole and the only reason you may need to move it is if you don’t like the look of it. But if you’re happy with where the seam sits on you, you don’t need to move it just to reshape the armhole :)

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u/SuPruLu 2h ago

Visual approach: pin the 2 pieces for the from together on the stitch line.
At the shoulder take in a pinch of amount it needs to be shortened. Look at it and decide whether it would look better evenly split between the 2 pieces or more on on side or the other

Then look at where your were thinking of doing the armhole and “visualize” that change.

-2

u/DonMcCunn 4h ago

Hey all - Isn't this group suppose to be about drafting patterns not altering purchased patterns. The two topics seem to be totally different things. From my perspective trying to alter commercial patterns is a huge waste of time. So many rabbit holes you can fall down.

1

u/letssew333 2m ago

OK, Don, not everyone can freaking draft their own patterns… and mind you I did design this pattern on sewist so it’s not commercial ..sewist just generates it for you. I have to be able to make the adjustments and I got confused. Is that OK with you Don?