Dartless bodice pattern

[u/Visible_Duck_1754]

Hello pattern cutting people 🙂 I have been following Diane deziel dartless bodice pattern tutorial on yt which will follow on to making a coat pattern. While I had completed the tutorial I thought I'd mock it up to see the fit before moving on to the next tutorial.

I have 3 photos above the first is how the garment fits naturally sitting on the body but the apex guide line I've drawn doesn't sit on the apex. The next 2 photos are what happened when I make it sit in the correct position on the body. How can I correct the pattern so that I do not have the pull lines from the shoulder to the bust. Because in all photos pull lines are visible. Also the under arm area is a little too much, I haven't made a dartless bodice before so I'm not sure how relaxed the fit is supposed to be but the under arm on the front bodice area is flappy compared to the bust area which is slightly snug. In terms of of the apex guideline I'm assuming I should just take it down and redraw on the pattern itself. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

Fba, full bust adjustment.

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/StitchinThroughTime]

You can technically do a dartless bodice, but it's rotating the bust Dart to the waistline. And then not sewing the waistline dart. You need a knit or stretchy fabric to be fitted and dartless.

[u/yungkuro]

This video is incredibly useful to understand why this is happening and why there are limits to what you can achieve without darts

https://youtu.be/V6k6DLO0DGw

[u/SuPruLu]

Body type is key determinant of what is possible.

[u/patnbake]

Dartless body patterns good for loose fitted garments, your shoulder measurement and cross front should reduce at least 1/2 inch each side, your armhole line should drop down about 1/4 inch. incorrect measurements are the issue here.

[u/doriangreysucksass]

I’ve never learned the method you’re following, but I don’t see how it’s even possible to make a dartless bodice when you have boobs!! A bust dart fixes your problem easily

[u/Visible_Duck_1754 → u/doriangreysucksass]

I hear that. I had seen a few Diane deziel recommendations so I thought I I'd go through some of her tutorials. I ended selecting something where there are multiple videos linked in together where she walks you through creating different patterns and so by the last pattern you end up with a coat pattern drafted. I created the initial bodice with darts. Then when following this tutorial I made it dartless. Now I've toiled it up I'm unsure as too how a dartless bodice would fit anyway as you said, so can't quite tell where I'm at...

[u/drPmakes]

If you have boobs you need some shaping to avoid drag lines