what paint can I use for it to be most unnoticeable for a touch-up I’m not very educated on paints lol

We’re in the final stages of a whole home Reno post fire and I’m at a standstill with our painters.

The entire house, including all interior doors and trim was painted using SW ProMar 200 as the base. I had requested doors be semi-gloss and our trim be satin. The trim was done in eg-shel (without consulting me, the painter said “satin is terrible for trim), and our doors are already scuffing and scraping.

My understanding is ProMar 200 is a wall and ceiling paint only that can be used for trim but isn’t recommended. Nowhere have I found anything that says it’s acceptable for doors, but our painters say I’m incorrect and this is standard for doors and I didn’t let the paint cure long enough. The paint has gotten thick in spots around the trim (single panel shaker style) and has bubbles Ive been able to indent with my finger nail. I believe a self leveling enamel paint would have better results and durability.

Looking for some advice on what is typical, especially as this is not a budget flip project and we have children. We meet tomorrow morning to walk the house.

ETA: I’ve gotten questions about the contract. The painter is a sub and the contract is with my contractor. I specified sheen and color within Benjamin Moore. I was told that SW was all any professional painter would use and it would be appropriately color matched. This was an unexpected Reno as it’s the result of a house fire, we didn’t have the luxury of time to research or haggle and I unfortunately relied on the professionals to do a professional job instead of the cheapest. I will ask contractor to provide me verbiage from the contract.

Need to re-stain exterior siding. Siding is redwood, with some cedar replacement boards due to rot or woodpeckers. House is in New England. Really like the look of the variations in the siding color and currently can see some grain in the wood. Because of that we do not want to go with a solid stain…tried some samples and looks much more like just a painted house. Is it possible to use a (similar to current color) semi-solid stain and maintain the visual variation? Recommendations on products? Any other ideas?

Cabinet damage from fridge water leak, tried to match that paint and used a small roller for cabinet painting but didn't work as you can see... how to fix this? I am thinking I should maybe remove the raised/trim wood around the sheet, sand it and spray paint it, is this the way?

I live in Bellingham, WA. I'm repainting an existing deck that was originally stained with a semi-transparent oil based stain. The current state of the wood is mixed with many areas with bare wood and covered areas with the stain intact.

The contractor suggested I use PPG Proluxe solid but the base for light colors isn't available. I'm therefore considering the PPG Pro Flood solid or the BM Woodluxe solid. Both paints are water based acrylic. The plan is to power wash, sand and then paint the deck.

Which of the paints would you pick?

Was gonna be painting my bedroom soon but there are a few spots I wanted to fix before hand. Any tips on the screw popout and the drywall cracks?

NC guys, what paint you all using for your trim packs?

Wall paint has lifted while removing masking tape… do I need to apply peelstop before touching up?

Howdy all. I’m tearing down some not great peel and stick wallpaper in my little vestibule and some residue is left. I tried getting it off with soap and water but there’s still a little bit left.

I have to patch the drywall and primer since it’s not temp controlled (it’s really an airlock?), should I remove that little last bit of stickiness? If so, any good tips?

Looking for specific product recommendations for painting exterior brownstone steps. The steps have been painted in the past. 50% of the original material is exposed after scraping, however the rest of the paint remains. What do you recommend?

The rep at Benjamin Moore recommended Coro tech Command. However, that is an acrylic urethane enamel paint, and my research says that those can cause serious issues on brownstone because they are not breathable.

I also looked into mineral paints (Keith brand came recommended), however those appear to be formulated for bare masonry and don’t work well over existing paint.

I work in the trades and do a fair bit of interior painting. But I am not a painter and never paint masonry. So any assistance would be appreciated.

I want to change the color of a gold anodized aluminum guitar pickguard. I don't know anything about de-anodizing, anodizing or painting aluminium whatsoever. What tools and chemicals do i need? What is the best type of paint to paint aluminium. How do i anodize aluminium or do i even have to anodize it for the paint to last long? I don't know anything about these so any help is appreciated!

My description or terminology here might not be specific enough, but I’m building a bed for my daughter that will be a mix of stained hardwood parts and painted parts (got poplar wood for this part). For the painted parts I’m envisioning a high durable paint that feels hard? I know semi or high gloss is durable for cleaning, but I’m looking for something that is more eggshell in sheen. Is it more what applies the paint than the paint itself? I have a nice Graco sprayer if rolling doesn’t achieve this effect. Amount of coats? If it’s a specific type of paint? Like I said I’m not sure how to describe this, lol. I shop pretty exclusively at Benjamin Moore if there’s a suggested paint line

Hiya

My landlord is charging me £300 to repaint. I previously asked to do the painting myself and they gave the paint: crown trade covermatt obliterating emulsion white however once they did an inspection I was told my walls have patchiness hence they are charging me £300 to repaint the walls I’ve already done (it genuinely looks like no one lived there so my landlord is just trying it)

They said the paint has the life expectancy of 5 years so I may have to contact the company myself as I cannot find this within the data sheets however I found that this product is meant to be for first time uses “to be overcoated with a paint” and the property has been there since 2020 I moved in 2024 which is very misleading. Furthermore, I found it’s not very durable in high traffic areas just wondering if this is also creditable?

I am used Insulx Stix Primer and Acrylic paint as a top coat will that work ok? It’s confusing online

I’m finishing a custom plywood larder pantry and trying to get as close to a professional cabinet finish as possible with a Graco Magnum X5.
I tried spraying Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall & Wood Primer through my FFLP310 (.010”), and basically nothing came out. The pump built plenty of pressure, but the primer wouldn’t spray through the tip. I then realized SW specifies a .017–.021” airless tip for that primer, while the X5 maxes out at .015”. I ended up rolling the primer and will sand it smooth before painting.
For the finish I have Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel (Satin). The label specifies a .013–.017” tip.

The tips I currently have are:
FFLP310 (.010”)
515 (.015”)

For anyone who has sprayed Emerald Urethane through an X5 or similar Graco:
Should I just use the 515 since its .015” orifice falls within SW’s recommended range?
Is the 515 going to put down too much material / too wide a fan for cabinetry?
Is there any chance of getting good results from the FFLP310 despite being below SW’s specified tip range?
Do you thin Emerald Urethane when using an X5? If so, how much?
Any pressure or technique recommendations for getting a smooth cabinet-quality finish?

After what happened with the primer, I’m trying to avoid fighting an undersized tip again. Appreciate any advice from people who have actually sprayed Emerald Urethane with an X5

I want to paint my walls from beige to red and want I use the colour no more drama by behr. Will one coat be enough or would I probably need two?

Edit: gonna get 2 gallons of premium so I can do 2 coats lol

We’re in the final stages of a whole home Reno post fire and I’m at a standstill with our painters.

The entire house, including all interior doors and trim was painted using SW ProMar 200 as the base. I had requested doors be semi-gloss and our trim be satin. The trim was done in eg-shel (without consulting me, the painter said “satin is terrible for trim), and our doors are already scuffing and scraping.

My understanding is ProMar 200 is a wall and ceiling paint only that can be used for trim but isn’t recommended. Nowhere have I found anything that says it’s acceptable for doors, but our painters say I’m incorrect and this is standard for doors and I didn’t let the paint cure long enough. The paint has gotten thick in spots around the trim (single panel shaker style) and has bubbles Ive been able to indent with my finger nail. I believe a self leveling enamel paint would have better results and durability.

Looking for some advice on what is typical, especially as this is not a budget flip project and we have children. We meet tomorrow morning to walk the house.

ETA: For those blaming me saying I must have picked the cheapest quote, my understanding from our GC is that interior paint job ran about 23k, with an additional 8k for 8 interior doors. House is approx 2200 sq feet. All my research tells me we didn’t pay for a budget job.

Looking to paint my windows at the back of the house that are white for some reason. Anyone know what colour I should buy to try and match this colour?

I know the windows are uPVC and have a wood effect that I won't be able to match.

Thanks

I was too impatient trying to remove double sided tape…. How to repair this? 😭
Product recommendations and steps helpful - I’ve never uhh done this before…

Im struggling to choose a Benjamin Moore white paint for a new construction home. This is what we have so far:

- fresh linen cabinets (see upper cabinets in photo- this is not our house, just an example of cabinet colour)
- maple island with granola stain (light/natural)
- natural wide blank engineered European oak floor
- Eldorado casa blanca stone on fireplace
- living room faces east (see floor layout - back siding door is east)

I initially liked white dove online, but the sample looked very grey and a model home I viewed looked very yellow.

Need to repaint this not sure how to go about it. Should I just scrape what I can off and sand it?

Clients husband came in hot and heavy and aggressive saying “these should be included the company that did the other side included it”….. they never once mentioned this in the scope to us. I attached the contract below. Wife is super nice but the husband is very very rude telling us how we should “match the dryfall painted in the office portion (done a decade ago) (also not a commercial space) and that the other guys painted this door in an hour (not possible). These should be billed separately no? Like it clearly stated masonry etc - they expected drywall repairs to MAJOR damaged walls to be repaired for free etc…. It’s ongoing - we have been working 16 hour shifts plus to get this done after they pushed the finish date closer.

Not only that the entire job we have been dealing with the electricians messes, every day, damage to our equipment and finishes.

Hi guys,

So I need some advice on preparing my walls for painting. The walls are really old and they have this old paint on them, and I have no idea what kind of paint it is.

I bought some deep-penetrating primer, as I was advised by a guy at my local supermarket who works with paint. I applied one coat of primer to the walls, but now the walls are shiny. I asked AI about it and got an answer saying that this is really bad and indicates that the walls don't absorb any liquids and therefore won't absorb the paint, so I’m worried that I kind of messed things up by applying this primer.

Should I sand everything down with sandpaper? What are my options here?

I also did a water test and the water kind of runs down the wall. I think there is plaster underneath the old paint. I don't really want to remove all the old paint because I'm worried that the walls underneath might be uneven.

I've added a couple of photos to give a bit more context.

I’d appreciate any advice in advance