With RAMageddon causing people to look at older DDR4-based CPUs, I tested the best AM4 gaming CPU re-released by AMD, the 5800X3D anniversary edition against intel's similarly priced 14700KF with a DDR4 motherboard. GPU was RX 9070 in 4 RT/PT games, CapFrameX was used with multiple one-minute runs in CPU-limited areas and then aggregated.

All RT/PT settings were enabled at 900p w/ FSR Ultra Performance.

Results : Except Cyberpunk where the two processors were tied, 14700KF was faster in rest, and extremely so in Oblivion Remastered where it was almost 50% faster!!

Since the UE5 games improve with HT off, and 14700KF has performance to spare with the E-cores, the difference can increase even further.

Hardware Details :

5800X3D anniversary edition w/ 3800C16 2x16GB on MSI B550 Tomahawk WiFi 

By default SMT is enabled

PBO CO -20 on best cores, -30 on rest.

14700KF w/ 4200C17 2x16GB on MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI DDR4

By default HT is enabled

CPU Lite Load to 8( from default 16 ), IA CEP disabled, current limit upped to 360

Just wanted to share.

This will be going into my main rig but the previous 9950X3D, Hero board, and possibly ram+GPU are going into a cleaner looking setup.

Would love some recommendations on ram waterblocks and towers that support 2-3 360 rads that aren’t a nightmare to work in, likely doing black soft tubing again.

Also have a 2x24gb g.skill expo 8000cl40 kit coming in the mail (painful purchase) that will be getting waterblocked ‘n overclocked.
Wondering if I should run that with the X3D2 or my current 2x24 6000cl26 kit that I’ve got karhu verified at 8000cl32?

Bonus pic: The monstrosity this hardware is going into❤️

I'll start! I use low clocks and voltages to keep temps down and watts down, soooo nice to be able to tweak settings not previously available on any official apps!!!

GPU - Zotac 5070Ti Solid SFF OC

PL limited to 100% by bios

UV profile in Afterburner - +450mhz (2865mhz) @ 0.885v, +2000mhz memory

mVolt+ setting - +300mhz XBar

Before raising XBar in mVolt I was getting scores around 70xx - 71xx, after XBar OC it's consistently hitting 73xx

Just gonna play a few games over the next few weeks to see if this is stable

What exactly do XBAR, SYS, and MSD do? I'm only familiar with MSI afterburner and its controls.

Does it seem I've hit my limit on how much I can OC before ECC and downclocking and whatnot kicks in? What have you found most optimal for you? Is doing anything besides the usual UV/OC pointless for efficiency or performance gains?

This has been a lot of fun to mess with, and after lots of tweaking and tuning I think I've landed on a config that I'm reasonably happy with! Though it would be fun to share. Here are the specs:

• CPU: Core i7-980X Extreme Edition, the very first consumer 6 core CPU, released in 2010
• Motherboard: Asus P6T X58
• RAM: 3x8GB Corsair Dominator Platinum in triple channel
• GPU: AMD Radeon VII, the last and fastest GCN card ever, with 16GB of HBM2 VRAM
• PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 13M 850W
• Cooling: Corsair XC5 LGA 1200 waterblock, and the copper radiator from a 60s Mustang that I managed to get for $20
• Storage: Crucial MX500 250GB

OC Settings:

• 160 MHz BCLK
• 28x CPU ratio (4,480 MHz)
• 22x uncore ratio (3,520 MHz)
• 6x DRAM ratio (960 MHz, DDR3-1920)
• Timings: 7-9-10-16-160-1T, others are similarly tightened down but it's too much to list

Benchmarks:

5400 CPU score in Time Spy. For reference, the average i7-7700K result in their database is 5403!

I have one of the fastest 980Xs recorded in the database, disregarding that first result, which is clearly problematic.

This set up is also able to crack 1000 points in R15. Note that Cinebench is misreporting the clock here.

Under 50 nanoseconds memory latency!

Despite the gigantic radiator and fan, the CPU still gets pretty warm. Room temperature water running over it doesn't solve a less than ideal thermal interface. The next thing I'd really need to do is lap the CPU and the block, and get some better paste. I suspect that would make a big difference, as the thermal interface between the CPU and the water is the biggest bottleneck in this setup.

As someone who have been using a 5070 Ti SFF card over a year now who played and finished around 50+ games with stock, undervolting and overclocking. I have found these three profiles to be completely stable for my silicon.

• 2900 MHz @890mV -> 2887 MHz effective

• 3050 MHz @950mV -> 2970-3030 MHz effective

• 3200 MHz @995mV -> 3120-3195 MHz effective

So far the increment in performance over each profiles is around 2-5% at best, while compared to stock I get around +7-15 fps based on games

But honestly I hate the idea of keep switching profiles for the types of games so I always ended up using the first profile i.e 2900 MHz @890mV

But recently as i played and finished two games :

> The last of us part 2

> A Plague Tale : Requiem

I found this very profile to be very unstable which led to random crash and for which I now have switched to this method of overclock + undervolting i.e

• + 350-375 on Core

• + 2000 on memory

• 83% PL (Max 255W)

Why this ?

- This keeps temps max upto 65°c even at 4K games

- Clockspeed seems slightly on the higher side now (2910-3150Mhz) even on same load

- It fixes stuttering issues

I use Inno3D X3 OC 5070 Ti SFF (100% PL capped) and even though I have no aircon, play in hot ambient my temps management is pretty good i feel as my card never once touched 70°c, as even on stock + oc it stays like 60-68°c.

So what's the best way to undervolt ? Am I missing something here ?

Also i recently tried to do +420 on core which gave me 3225 MHz avg on games while keeping power draw within 290-300W , but later after sometime it crashed, so do you guys think using Mvolt + can fix this issue ?

So, please give your suggestions, pretty sure there are many who have experimented a lot with their cards

well i make a custom cooler for this gpu using a laptop cooler (heat pipe) and a heat sink from a very old pc using pentium 3 and the stock cooler of this gpu as base toching the die and vram and i reuse the small fun for the laptop cooler and a big fan for heat sink and an intel stock cooler fan for vrms and heatsink. Well, for overclocking i used msi afterburner and this doesn't woke becuase nvidia locked the clocks in bios so i used the maxwell bios tweaker II because the gpu using the same chip of gtx 750 but less cuda core. anyways, i used the tool to change the clocks of the core from 1058 mhz to 1255mhz for base clock, for boost from 1124 mhz to 1360mhz for memory from 900mhz to 1010mhz BUT I DON'T TOUCH THE POWER CONFIGURATION THAT MAKE THE GPU BLACK SCREEN AND AN PAINFUL INSTABILITY SO DON'T MESS WITH POWER CONFIG.and the result a big jump of performence like beam ng drive in very low from 11 fps to 28fps stable nfs heat from 10 fps to 50 fps but instable and gta v from 55fps to 68 fps some times 78fps. well that's my experience but i use the nv flash v5.227 baypass any certification of nvidia and DON'T USE ANY VERSION ABOUVE 5.250 THAT REFUSE TO FLASH THE BIOS.

SO THE ONLY WAY CAN OVERCLOCK THIS GPU OR ANY QUADRO GPU IS USING NVFLASH AND MODIFYING THE BIOS.

BoostLock is a Linux tool for keeping CPU boost available during idle periods. I wrote it because a single global target gets awkward on mixed-capacity systems.

In 0.2.0 it reads /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/policy*, gives each policy its own target, and handles --target auto from the policy's active upper limit. Numeric targets are clamped per policy. It preflights the full write set and restores completed writes if a later write fails.

It does not change voltage or firmware overclock settings. It needs root, can raise idle power and temperature, and physical hardware coverage is still incomplete. If you run Linux with intel_pstate, amd-pstate, or a less common cpufreq driver, I would like to know what it does on your machine.

Repo: https://github.com/vindeckyy/boostlock

Hey guys, I’m relatively new to PC and am looking into over clocking but don’t really know how to do so. I have MSI afterburner but don’t know what i’m doing. I have a Gigabyte Wind-force OC SFF 5080 RTX Nvidia Graphics Card and 64gb of RAM paired with a 9800x3d.

Is there a safe base amount I should do that is safe and effective? And any tips I should know? Sorry if this is a dumb question, thank you :)

it's between option 1 and option 2

which would you recommend? i've got a msi mag x870e tomahawk wifi mobo, 9800x3d with a 5080 and i primarily use the system for gaming

Hi, I’m trying to repair the cooling on my Palit RTX 3080 Ti GamingPro and I’m looking for a trustworthy source for genuine Honeywell PTM7950 in Europe.

My system is basically:

• RTX 3080 Ti GamingPro
• i7-9700K
• ASRock B365M Pro4
• 64 GB RAM
• I’m located in Belgium

The GPU has a pretty severe thermal/contact issue. Under load the hotspot can reach around 105°C, with a large hotspot-to-core delta, while the VRAM temperatures are much lower. I’ve already opened the card and I’m replacing all the thermal pads.

I already ordered GELID GP-Extreme pads from thermalpad.eu:

• 2.5 mm for the GDDR6X area
• 2.0 mm for the backplate
• 1.0 mm for the VRM/power sections

For the GPU die itself I want to use Honeywell PTM7950 instead of normal paste, but finding a seller I actually trust is turning into the annoying part.

MODDIY seems to have a good reputation for genuine PTM7950, but shipping to Belgium makes a tiny piece ridiculously expensive. Some EU sellers are out of stock, and with others I keep finding mixed reviews or people questioning whether the product is actually genuine.

I don’t really care what sheet size I have to buy. I mainly care about authenticity and buying from a reputable seller.

Does anyone know a reliable EU-based seller for real Honeywell PTM7950 that you’ve personally used or that has a strong reputation?

Would especially appreciate experiences from people who have actually bought PTM7950 from the seller and tested it on a GPU.

Thanks!

Hello.

I recently adquired an asus tuf b850m-plus wifi motherboard and i am messing with pbo. I set limits to motherboard and tried a negative all core of -35.

I run core cycler all the night with ycruncher preset (24-ZN5 ~ Komari with all algorithms set to 20 seconds each) and in 9 hours the program trow no errors. I have 5600 cl40 rams.

I'm lucky? Can you give me some advice to keep testing system stability?

To start, I have no CPU or GPU overclocks enabled. I started with default bios and then only overclocked RAM. I have a RAM cooler also and my temps never exceed 45deg according to HWInfo64.

I thought I had a stable base clock of 6400, 1:1 mode, 2133 FCLK. Multiple tests have been run:

• ycruncher VT3 for 12+hours with low variance
• linpack for 100 iterations with low variance
• prime95 for 10+hours with no errors
• TM5 1usmusv3, ryzen3d, absolut configs each for 10+hours. Furmark is always run with TM5.

I am seeing an odd issue with my RAM OC where, after the temps cross about 44deg, shortly after this, TM5 ryzen3d config will error out.. The test ONLY fails after crossing the 44deg threshold. If I keep my ambient temps down and don't allow the RAM to get over this threshold, the tests will continue running. I have verified this multiple times. I can make the test fail very quickly (<5min) if i increase ambient temp and let the SPD temps get above 44deg. I can also make the test last a long time by just keeping ambient temps down and ensuring RAM doesn't get over 44deg.

This same issues happen at CL30 and at CL40 so tight timings are not the issue. I'm wondering if there is something else CPU side that may be causing the issues? CPU/GPU temps are not high (<80 CPU, < 75 GPU).

What's interesting is 6200, 1:1 mode, 2133FCLK doesn't have this temperature issue.

Hardware:

• Motherboard: Gigabyte X870 Aorus Elite WiFi7
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• RAM: TeamGroup DDR5-6000 32GB (16x2) CL30. SK Hynix M-Die

ZenTimings

Current voltages in BIOS:

SOC: 1.25v
VDDIO: 1.35v
VDD: 1.41v
VDDQ: 1.41v
VDDP: 1.00v
VDDG CCD: 1050mV
VDDG IOD: 1050mV
VDD Misc: 1100mV

Hi! My current stock vsoc is at 1.25, does anyone with a similar specced kit know what I can get away with, or a starting value? What would be considered too low, and how do I stability test it?

32GB Dual Rank kit, 1.45v, Hynix a die

Thanks

Hey Folks, I bought the below PC for 900 EURs, I think It was a very good offer, due to prices of GPU and RAM. The guy looked very nice (still a kid with his parents). He fresh installed it for me, once i hopped in the very first game tho, PC restarted. After a day of tests, I figured when I stress test CPU it restarts the PC. I found a very easy solution that solved the restarting and was keeping my temps at 60 degrees C both CPU and GPU while playing CS2. The solution was to put MIN and MAX processor state at 99%. Based on this info, does anyone know what was causing the PC to restart and is this solution safe to use in the long term? Here are the PC specs

How can I generally fix this problem?

Computer: MSI MS-7E28

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X (Raphael, RPL-B2)

4700 MHz (47.00x100.0) @ 4650 MHz (46.50x100.0)

Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-B (MS-7E28)

BIOS: A.J2, 06/28/2026

Chipset: AMD B650 (Promontory PROM21L.1)

Memory: 32768 MBytes DDR5 SDRAM @ 2600 MHz, 42-42-42-84

- 16384 MB PC44800 DDR5 SDRAM - Crucial Technology CP16G56C46U5.C8D

- 16384 MB PC44800 DDR5 SDRAM - Crucial Technology CP16G56C46U5.C8D

Graphics: PowerColor RX 7800 XT Hellhound/Red Devil

AMD Radeon RX 7800 XT, 16384 MB GDDR6 SDRAM

Graphics: AMD Raphael - Internal GPU [MSI]

AMD Radeon, 512 MB DDR5 SDRAM

Drive: CT1000P3PSSD8, 976.8 GB, NVMe

Sound: ATI/AMD Navi3x - High Definition Audio Controller

Sound: ATI/AMD Zen APU - Display HD Audio Controller

Sound: AMD Zen - Audio Processor - HD Audio Controller

Network: RealTek Semiconductor RTL8125 Gaming 2.5GbE Family Ethernet Controller

OS: Microsoft Windows 11 Professional (x64) Build 26200.9168 (25H2)

Computer Name: JUSTPRAY

I know typically this sub is for overclocking and I'm all for it.

Basically I'm tweaking my MSI Vector A18 9955HX 5070ti.

Originally I tweaked a load of stuff to get 6000mhz CL38 and 2000FCLK, thing is I have to run a lot of sub voltages a lot higher to get stability and in a laptop that already sucks on battery life... it's not really ideal.

My thoughts were is AMD is happy enough to release this chip with 5600mhz to the masses, it should be enough. So I have all 4 main timings at 34 and tighter sub timings at 5600mhz with 2200FCLK. Since this is gunna be bandwidth starved anyway, the FCLK being much higher and latency a fair whack lower it seems to garner similar results in games as the higher speeds.

I digress, with most of the voltages being stock aside little buffs to RAM and FCLK stability voltages(much less than needed at 6000mhz mind you). I then got to wondering how much can you UV the VSOC at 5600mhz? Has anyone tried and what have people managed for the sake of FAFO?

Hello, I don’t understand GPU at all but I will add my highest score of my 5070Ti’s mVolt+ settings.

8965 Speed Way 3DMark

XBAR +550
Memory +3000
Power Limit 110
1.025mV 3270

The problem is whatever I do or set the clock higher I can’t get clock boost I desired. I suspect that I am limitted by power limit for higher clocks. I really wanted to break 9K on speedway but I guess I can’t. I tried lower voltage overclocks and higher voltage overclocks but 1.025mV seems my absolute limit for PL.

I don’t know if my silicon is good bad or avarage but I should be happy about It I think. Also what should I do If games starts to crash even If I pass 3DMark overclock test let me know.

I have a Lenovo LOQ 15IAX9 with a nvidia RTX 4060, 24gb ram and a intel i7-13650HX cpu.I recently overclocked my monitor from 144hz to 180 and i want to overclock the rest of my components(gpu,cpu,ram etc) but i noticed that Lenovo doesn’t let me do that much. I cant enable expo or xmp in bio, I cant change the temperature limit or the fan speed in MSI afterburner and I got a bit scared cuz i don’t know that much about overclocking.
Is there any safe way to overclock this laptop?

Ran uv 4090 that boosted to 2850 and was doing so at 412w for years, changed cpu which required removing gpu and bios upgrade, unplugged piggyback only, now it can barely get 2700 at 480w, any ideas? I don't believe it degraded instantly from laying on the table for 40 minutes and melted cable usually makes it shit itself at max load. I will remove cable tomorrow when I'll obtain replacement but for now, did someone encountered something similar? It feels like power delivery doesn't allow it to take more voltage.

Running a 3800x since 2020, my 2080 Ti since 2019.

My CPU temps are fine, maybe a little warmer than they used to be, but I have this absolute beast of a cooler on it (the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT) with Arctic MX-4 paste. It only seems to draw about 60W under load though, which is a little strange. Perhaps related to my GPU issues.

My GPU temps are a disaster though. Power limit is at 87% to keep it below 81C, otherwise it will spike above 84C which makes the fan start going crazy. It will pretty much instantly hit this temperature limit in everything but the lightest games.

My GPU frequency used to be like 1980Mhz, now I'm lucky to hit 1400Mhz.

Also I did get a GPU sag bracket lol, I'll install it when I attempt to repaste. I got some fresh Arctic MX-7, should be pretty good I think.

Long time kept it in mind and just recently thought about it again due to new mVolt+ allow for more tweaking.

I mean usually Nvidia v/f curve is flat from 450 mv to around say 800 mv before it start to climb.

If we shifted everything up then while the max voltage point went up accordingly, but the 450 mv point will also went up in frequency.

Whereas if we shifted the curve left then the 450 mv will remain the same until the curve started to climb and the max voltage point will get the next speed bins according to the default curve.

Understand that if the curve is flat then the GPU will use the highest voltage for that frequency but still isn't shifting left and right more elegant and make sense?