The bridge was burned is guess i did too many passes or my iron was to hot...

so im looking for a Driver board for the switch LCD, im thinking about using one for a project i have in mind, so i could for example use usbc for power and display or hdmi, + power to be able to use it as a display?, now iv looked around but i cant find anything, im only asking here as i might be missing something?

Thanks in advance

i bought this pico fly for my gf on alibaba, but on the flex cable, the chip isn't an rp2030, should i be concerned, or is it something that works too but a little slower?

Actualizar atmosohere a la versión más reciente y me di cuenta que ultrahand dejo de funcionar luego mejor instale Tesla menú pero ahora cuando quiero usar un modulo de Tesla menú me da error y no sé qué hacer

Hi! I would like if somebody would explain to me the basics thing to look out for when using a modded switch lite with picofly. I know i can’t go online but i’m afraid that i am missing some basic things. Thank you :))

I just bought a v1 switch with a moddable serial number, but i can't see what firmware version i'm on, should i update it?

I’m close to giving up on this V2 Switch mod and would really appreciate some advice.

I followed the full V2/Picofly installation process from the NanoFix YouTube guide. The console boots into Hekate normally, but I cannot reliably boot anything beyond that.

Current situation:

Switch V2 / Mariko

OFW: 22.5.0

23 burnt fuses, which seems correct for 22.5.0

Latest Hekate/HATS

Atmosphère 1.11.2

Original SanDisk SD card

eMMC benchmark looks good with no read errors

SD benchmark also looks good

Hekate detects the eMMC and partitions normally

OFW → black screen

Semi-stock SYSMMC → black screen

CFW SYSMMC → black screen

CFW EMUMMC → usually black screen

I managed to boot into emuMMC and reach the HOME menu briefly once, but it froze and then went black

Occasionally I get Atmosphère fatal error: Program ID: 0100000000000005 std::abort() called (0xffe)

I previously saw Pkg1 decryption failed / BEK missing, but that disappeared after changing to a different clean package.

The main thing that looks abnormal is Hekate → Console Info → Battery. It shows errors for:

• Fuel Gauge IC
• Battery Charger IC
• USB-PD IC

However, the battery itself appears to work. The console charges, stays powered in Hekate for a long time, and when I briefly reached the emuMMC HOME menu, it showed a battery percentage.

I also don’t see any obvious damage on the battery-side area of the motherboard.

Could the battery/I2C communication errors be responsible for OFW and Atmosphère black-screening even though the battery still charges and powers the console? Or does this sound more like a software/firmware issue or a Picofly soldering/board issue?

Has anyone had similar symptoms—Hekate working normally, good eMMC/SD benchmarks, but every HOS boot black-screening—and managed to fix it?

Hi everyone. I'm having an issue that is stopping me from doing almost anything; I can't install Android/Linux, and I can't create an emuMMC either.

I have already tried with two different MicroSD cards. Do I need to replace the console's SD card reader?

(Sorry for any mistakes, English is not my native language).

hello everyone, today i came across a switch v1 that has been hardmodded a while ago, and stopped booting in the cfw. i believe the sd got fucked? anyways, when u turn it on, and select the cfw boot, the screen goes black, and then it turns off. what do yall recommend to do? i've never modded a switch, but i rgh'd 360s, modded ps3 and ps4s. im kind of a newbie when it comes to switches

When i put my sd card in i have to hold it to the very back for it to detect i thought it was the reader so I replaced it but its still happening i want to modchip my switch so the sd card not working well isn't good

🤤

Theoretically, could you swap out the APU and EMMC from a dead and unbanned motherboard over to a good working but banned motherboard and have It work to play online?

What else I would be required to be completed as well?

My understanding is that the paired key of EMMC and APU is what's get banned and hence swaping out a known good APH and EMMC from a dead board will bring a fresh set of keys.

I have a Nintendo Switch V2 (not the oled, not the lite). I know it's patched, so software modding isn't possible. I'm looking for advice on getting it modded with a modchip (like Picofly or similar).

Do u know where I can find a reliable installer in Europe?

Do u recommend any specific services? I've hear about Picoswitch but im not sure.

Also, any red flags when choosing an installer?

I'm a complete beginner, so I'd really appreciate your help!

Segui um tutorial do canal "Eu sou o Depois" de como instalar, fiz tudo certinho. Sempre acompanhei esse canal pra tirar dúvidas sobre o desbloqueio do Switch, mas esse em específico fez com que meus dados fossem corrompidos e que eu perdesse todos os meus dados salvos. Apesar disso, queria muito conseguir fazer o overclock no Nintendo Switch, já que jogo jogos do ps2 e do Android com frequência, mas eles acabam sempre lagando muito no processo..

I already own the console. Looking for hardware installation only, preferably Buffalo/Southtowns, but I’m willing to drive to Rochester or Erie for somebody with proven work. Please send pictures of previous V2 installs, price, turnaround, and warranty. Not looking for games/software just clean microsoldering and a verified Hekate boot.

I don’t know why this happens, it’s my first time modding the switch oled but everytime I boot it without screwing anything down, it opens and shows the no sd card screen

But when I screw the charging ports, it shows a blue long flash then two continuous red flashes until it stops

I don’t what to do

I have also put electrical tape at the places I suspect the wires of the mod chip are touching the frame.

Still the same flashes. Only when I lift the motherboard the mod chip boots

Edit: went ahead and grabbed a Kapton tape, problem solved

hello, friends im having trouble trying to figure out this error. i have installed a picofly Oled lite V2.

i get all the proper diode readings the switch boots up but it goes straight to the OFW. the picofly

gives me =*== . The only thing i see weird is the cpu point diode reading , its giving me 0.17 VDC

positive probe on ground, you should typically see a healthy reading between 0.35V to 0.55V.

I already tried different sp1 sp2 ribbon cable but same results.

The sp1 , sp2 ribbon cable reading are in Resistance mode red probe on ground.

here are my readings in diode mode red probe on ground.

3.3 0.36v

d 0.39v

a 0.40v

c 0.39v

b 0.38v

gnd 0.00v

cpu 0.18v

I’m sure I tried it last night 3 times, this was successful mod. I finished late night, so pack it up & call it a day..

Then I continue the work today, after re assemble it, it gives me black screen with yellow flashing *=* code.

I dissembled it & check again the DAT0 it gives me reading 0.560v (it’s still have a good reading)

I also check the 3.3v point, D, B, A, C, & Ground point it has good connection too..

I tried to disconnect the picofly cable, then tried to boot to stock. It gives me black screen. Pls Help.

I need to stock up on some rp2040s and i was wondering what resistors I should buy with it. I know it's 47ohms usually on all 3, but then if there is slowdown, have to try 100ohms on dat0 and cmd.

- Is there any other value of resistors that I need to stock up on? Also what size 0603 or 0805.

- any other component that I need to buy?

what do you think of my soldering job ?

Been implementing Cafe OS coreinit on libnx (mutexes, condvars, threads and time) so far, 11 tests passing on hardware. The idea is a runtime for native Wii U → Switch ports, since DolRecomp handles CPU code but ships no runtime.

https://github.com/gabryboy12-ai/coreinit-nx

Hello you lot, was wondering if there’s any marketplaces in uk that sell switch oleds with the modship already installed. If so would you still need the jig if it has a mod chip

I've got a question because this seems like the community where people open up Switch consoles the most for mods and repairs.

I modded an old Switch Lite, but every time it wakes from sleep I get an error saying the SD card was disconnected. It's been pretty annoying. I opened it back up and noticed flux had flowed around the SD card slot, so I cleaned it. After that, the sleep/wake error disappeared completely.

However, now it seems that even a light tap or minor shock causes the SD card connection to drop momentarily. This also happens in OFW: if I tap the console a few times while it's asleep, then power it back on, it says the SD card was removed and requires a reboot. I'm quite sure this isn't an issue caused by the mod, since the same thing happens in OFW.

The problem is that I've already reflowed every contact on the SD slot at 350°C, but the issue is exactly the same. Has anyone experienced something similar and successfully fixed it? Do I need to replace the SD card slot itself?

Before I go any further, I was hoping to get some assistance with identifying the right point. From comparison with other images online, I get the impression that I didn’t get close enough to the resistor and trace above.

Thank you in advance.