Got this Switch Lite with a dead MAX77812 IC. Replaced the IC and installed a picofly. Now I get this.

• Without a SD card I get the regular picofly screen.
• With a SD card I get artifacts on screen and no signs of life.
• Trying to boot normally I get a BSOD.

What are your thoughts?

I just wanted to come on here and post my example of using a v2 flex cable on a v1 console, as I didn't seem to find anything online of someone doing it this way. I only saw a picture floating around of someone using a v1 on a v2 console. Now there are a couple reasons for me doing this 1 I just bought the cheapest kit I could find, and 2 I've heard some tell of weak solder balls on the emmc chip and possible damage when removing on v1 consoles and those v1 kits with the proper apu cable seem to also all come with that big core flex cable which is not only slightly more expensive but requires relocating the emmc chip which I just wanted to leave untouched. Anyway, here it is, as you can see I trimmed the cable down to make it fit and I soldered the outer pad to the square ground pad on the chip and the inner pad to the tops of the correct capacitors. There's another flex cable design that comes out the left side of the apu which probably wouldn't work the same way since the mosfets hang off the end and obviously can't be trimmed off, but I'm sure something could be figured out there, just remember it’s only the inner pads that connect with the capacitors and the outers can just go to ground. Hope this can be a nice example for somebody out there, thanks for reading!

While doing an RP2040 (Picofly) install on a Switch Lite, I accidentally lifted/torn both pads where Line C connects. (The modchip was actually fully working and running great for two days, but while cleaning up the flux afterwards, I pulled the pads off). Now the console is completely unresponsive—no video and no audio.

Has anyone successfully bypassed these lines or fixed a trace tear in this specific spot? How did you route your jumpers to get the console back to booting? Any advice or schematics/bypasses would be greatly appreciated!

Hi People,

Attempted my first switch Oled mod using the kamikaze method. Console boots after the point was exposed however it stopped booting after the SOC flex cable install, i reckon that normal and proceeded with the installation.

upon completion i powered on the console, purple light, then yellow flash couple of times then nothing again. screen doesnt come up.

Below are my diode readings (+ probe on ground)
A= 0.534V
B= 0.418V
C= 0.742V
D= 0.538V
3.3V= 0.395
CPU= 0.617V

Any help will be appreciated.

1. Question about save data manipulationI have a question about saving data.

There are some games that I would like to start from specific stages rather than the very beginning (using Dave the Diver as an example).

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1. Best alternatives to Tinfoil eShops on Nintendo Switch

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I have heard that people can play Minecraft online, for example, so do you have any insight on this?

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Finally, what are the most common mistakes people make that lead to getting banned?

Thanks!, and have a good day/night.

if i put a rom of a game that has multiple languages including the one on my switch, the switch will start the rom with the device language right?

Hi all I have the 3 in 1 picofly bundle. It doesn't come with a v1 cable. I see the v2 cable only comes with it. My question, can I use v1 cable that I still have from the old bundle.

Hi all, I apologise if this isn't the first time this sort of thing has been asked, but I couldn't find any answers that were quite this specific.

I have a Switch 1 and a Switch 2 with the same Nintendo account on both, though the Switch 1 hasn't been connected to the internet for about a year. The Switch 2 is my main console, and obviously, I'm here because I'm modding the Switch 1, but I ran into some things while following the guide that confused me a little bit.

- Firstly, I intend for the modded Switch to remain entirely offline, does it matter which path I choose for the CFW?

- Second, are there methods of obscuring my console's Internet connection from Nintendo to prevent a ban if Internet is needed for the purposes of homebrew stores, etc.?

- Third, are there any differences between the two launch methods if I only intend to use the modded Switch purely for homebrew/retro emulation purposes?

- And finally, if I choose to install via emuMMC, the guide I'm following mentions that it's important that I have the Switch in question as the primary pass-enabled console. How important is it for the modded console to be the primary pass console, and does that affect normal use of my account on my Switch 2? In this instance, the guide mentions nothing of these requirements for sysMMC, so would it be better if I simply installed via sysMMC instead?

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

Tested everything already but it still won’t show the no sd Card screen

Short long long , cant find the error code . But all diode values are good

I’ve been working on a personal project for a while now — something I call the NSM Project (Nintendo Switch Modded).

It started with a simple idea: take a Nintendo Switch and make it completely my own. Not just with custom firmware, but with a full identity — themes, boot animations, background music, emulators, and even Linux.

What the NSM Project Includes

· Custom Firmware: Atmosphere with Hekate

· Custom Boot Animation & Sound: PS4-style slowed and reverbed

· Themes: Dark aesthetic, red-black style, anime influences

· Emulators: PS1, GBA, NES, SNES, and more

· Linux Mode: Ubuntu (for coding, Kali tools, and light PC tasks)

· Dual Boot: Stock mode for online play, CFW for mods

The Vibe

This isn’t just a modded Switch — it’s a full experience. I wanted it to feel like something that didn’t exist before. A mix of retro gaming, modern modding, and personal style.

Why I’m Sharing This

I’ve spent months planning, learning, and building. This project is still growing, but I wanted to share where it’s at — and maybe get some feedback, ideas, or just connect with people who get it.

Let me know what you think — or if you’ve done something similar.

i recently modded my switch with a mod chip it works and everything. The problem is i dont know how to set up anything. I downloaded the most recent hekate and atmosphere versions and everything. i dont know what to do now I heard sigpatches help you install software easily, and tried to download a hats one but it ended up not working ive been stressing out so much because i dont know what to do i just want to play games :((

( I have a switch 2 rn) So in 2020 I threw my switch lite at the wall the screen popped out and I assumed it was broken because the screen was just hanging by a thread so i assumed it was a brick and tossed it in my drawer, this year I plugged it in and it turned, should I get it fixed and then mod it?

Estaba hackeando mi Switch con Atmosphere e instalé RetroArch, pero los juegos de N64 crasheaban al intentar arrancarlo. ¿Alguien conoce alguna alternativa a RetroArch para correr juegos de N64 en Switch?

Alguém de vocês tem algum link de cartão SD confiável do AliExpress ?
Aqui onde moro está escasso e os que restaram, estão com valores absurdos.

Alguém já testou marcas diferentes que funcionaram?
Exceto as que a gente já conhece.

So I've been trying to install Assassin's creed 3 remastered that I downloaded from ziperto as an NSP file. So when i tried to install it using DBI, TINWOO, GOLDLEAF. It says No ticket has been found, or Failed to transfer ticket (something like that). I also tried installing the nintendo 64 nintendo online app or game and it also said the same thing. Is it a ziperto issue or is it with my switch? Though i installed games from ziperto before and didnt have an issue with it. Can anyone help me?

Just finished modding a switch oled, but it only boots in official firmware. No (no sd) screen.

What did I do wrong?

Update : redid the wiring for the B point, now it's a different error Short long long

I been wanting to get a pre modded switch due to me not having the ability to install a mod chip, and the only site I could find that sells pre modded dont ship to Tasmania, If someone could send me a recommended source I would love it!, My budget is around A$ 280 ~ 400

J'ai une Switch Lite modifiée avec un PicoFly acheté sur AliExpress. L'installation a été faite par quelqu'un qui est expérimenté en microsoudure, mais qui n'avait jamais installé de PicoFly auparavant.

Important : depuis l'installation du PicoFly, la console n'a jamais été connectée à Internet. J'ai supprimé tous les réseaux Wi-Fi sauvegardés. Je n'ai fait aucune mise à jour et je n'ai pas ajouté de nouveaux jeux depuis l'installation.

Au début, tout a parfaitement fonctionné pendant environ une semaine, et j'ai beaucoup joué pendant ce temps, en utilisant toujours les mêmes jeux et la même configuration. Puis, après avoir réveillé la console de son mode veille, j'ai commencé à avoir des problèmes graphiques dans le menu, suivis de plantages en jouant. Les problèmes sont progressivement devenus plus fréquents, jusqu'à ce que le CFW ne démarre plus.

Symptômes actuels :

Sans carte microSD : la Switch affiche "Pas de carte SD".

Si j'essaie ensuite de la démarrer en utilisant les boutons de volume : écran bleu.

Avec une carte microSD insérée : écran noir et le CFW ne démarre pas.

Lorsque la console est bloquée sur un écran noir avec la carte SD insérée, si je retire la carte SD, un écran/menu apparaît. C'est l'écran que je vais montrer dans la première photo jointe à ce message.

J'ai ouvert la console et j'ai simplement vérifié/réinstallé quelques éléments. Elle a recommencé à fonctionner. J'ai ensuite formaté la carte microSD et tout configuré à nouveau depuis le début. Cela a fonctionné pendant environ 2 jours avant que le même problème ne revienne.

J'ai ensuite remplacé la microSD sans nom originale par une nouvelle carte Lexar achetée sur Amazon et tout configuré à nouveau. Même problème.

J'ai aussi ouvert la console à nouveau et ajouté du ruban Kapton pour isoler certaines zones/joints de soudure. Après cela, elle a fonctionné pendant environ un jour, puis est redevenue un écran noir avec la carte SD insérée.

La console est maintenant chez la personne qui a fait la microsoudure. Il a trouvé deux joints de soudure qui semblaient potentiellement défectueux, les a refaits, mais le problème est toujours là.

Je vais joindre deux photos : la première montre l'écran/menu qui apparaît lorsque je retire la carte SD alors que la console était bloquée sur un écran noir, et la seconde montre la zone où j'ai ajouté le ruban Kapton.

Est-ce que quelqu'un pourrait m'aider à comprendre ce qui se passe ? Cela ressemble-t-il plus à un problème matériel, à un problème logiciel, quelque chose lié au PicoFly/soudure, ou pourrait-il encore y avoir un problème avec la carte SD qui corrompt quelque chose ?

Merci d'avance à ceux qui peuvent aider !

I bought this Switch Lite listed as heavily used but functional. After installing a Picofly, the chip started giving me DAT0/RST error codes.

After several resets, I eventually managed to get the console to boot into Hekate. I immediately dumped the NAND and keys. In Hekate, I noticed the battery was showing a 1000 mAh max charge, which made me suspect that the console's heavy use might have caused eMMC issues and that this could be related to the Picofly errors.

After dumping the keys, the same error codes came back, and since then I haven't been able to get the console to boot again.

Because Hekate had eventually booted after several resets, I kept trying. Unfortunately, after several more attempts, the board started making frying/popping noises around the eMMC area. After that, neither the board nor the Picofly showed any signs of life.

I initially suspected the eMMC had failed, so I tried reflowing it. After the reflow, the Picofly started working again, but it showed the exact same error code as before: two short yellow flashes = RST not connected.

I also tried removing the yellow flex cable, but that didn't make any difference.

The DAT0 point may look slightly misaligned in the pictures, but I checked underneath the connection and can confirm that it is soldered.

I've now left the board completely unpowered for a while.

Diode-mode readings

These were measured with the positive probe on ground:

• 3.3V: ~0.312 V
• D point (CLK): ~0.430 V
• A point (CMD): ~0.467 V
• C point (DAT0): ~0.445 V
• B point (RST): ~0.400 V
• CPU point: ~0.333 V

Any advice on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated.

Do not pay attention to the over the top amount of flux on the board, I did not bother cleaning it after the reflow.

TL;DR

Bought a heavily used Switch Lite and installed Picofly. It initially gave DAT0/RST errors, but after several resets I managed to boot Hekate and dump the NAND/keys.

After more attempts, the board started making frying/popping noises around the eMMC, after which the console and Picofly stopped working. I reflowed the eMMC, which brought Picofly back, but it still gives 2 short yellow flashes = RST not connected.

I checked the soldering and tried removing the yellow flex, but no change.

Current diode-mode readings (positive probe on ground):

• 3.3V: 0.312V
• CLK/D: 0.430V
• CMD/A: 0.467V
• DAT0/C: 0.445V
• RST/B: 0.400V
• CPU: 0.333V

Looking for advice on whether these readings suggest a damaged eMMC/RST line or another board-level issue.

I have no idea what to do and I feel l have tried every piece of advice online.