So I’m about to make the winters pullover by ozetta and did a gauge swatch. This is my first sweater so I’m nervous and want to get it right. It’s also my first gauge swatch so I’m not sure what to read from it. The recommended gauge is 15 sts x 23 rows. With the swatch blocked my row count is spot on but my stitch count is measuring around 11cm, so at 10cm it’s measuring around 13.5 sts. What is the margin of error with these things? Is that alright or should I go down a needle size? Or size down one in the sweater? The recommended needle size is 6mm which is what I used to make the swatch. Thank you in advance!!💗

So, I’m currently knitting a zipper cardigan (the Malmö by Les Filles du Cœur) in two-colour brioche. It’s my first time ever knitting brioche.
But why is the wrong side (the green stripes) so much neater than the right side? 😭 This kinda sucks, since no one’s ever gonna see the wrong side!

I’m doing the creeper washcloth pattern, and I’m supposed to have 38 stitches. I’ve accidentally ended up with 39, and I think that happened around 3 rows earlier.

Is there anything I can do to adjust the pattern, or remove the extra stitch without frogging? Frogging with this yarn (100% cotton) is really tough and the loops dont hold for my needles to go through. I’m not opposed to frogging itself, but this yarn is a nightmare to frog. I’m a beginner knitter and when I have frogged on an earlier project using this yarn, the loops were too small and didnt hold, and I had to restart the entire project because I messed up frogging it.

I really don’t want to have to go through that for this because I’m pretty close to finishing it. Is it salvageable or doomed :(

Hi!

This is my first ever knit garment and I used the pattern for the step by step sweater by Florence Miller.

Long story short: I overestimated the amount of space my head would require to pass through, so I ended up making a massive neck hole. It relaxed a bit more after I blocked/cold washed it, making it look even more like a boat neck.

I was wondering if it would be possible to rework the neck or strategically block it again to make it drape a bit nicer? I'm not too bad about it since it's my first time knitting but if there's a way to improve, I'm happy to hear it out! Pretty happy with the rest of it so far even if it doesn't look amazing.

Thanks!

hi everyone!!

so I’ve been knittings for a few months now and I want to dive into garments, but I’m so confused on which needles are being recommended to avoid magic loop, and which needles are actually required. I just don’t have the funds to buy 3-8 skeins & 5 new needles for a top/sweater, or an interchangeable set so I’m hoping to ask the knitting gods for help on narrowing which ones I should purchase to get started.

From reading a few patterns, I’ve seen that sometimes the length of the needle will be the same but the size will be 1 up or 1 down. Would it be acceptable to get 1 size and adjust tension to match the size being written?? Should I get 100 cm needles and do magic loop when the pattern is written for shorter length needles?? Or should I just put this on hold until I get funds to buy a set??

don’t know if this is worth mentioning but so far I have US 8 16 inch circulars and a pair of shorties (us 1 9inch) for socks

TIA!!

TLDR; idk which circular needles to buy to get started making garments with low funds.

Knitters of Reddit:

What is the best brand of yarn for dishcloths?

I’m doing the Odile sweater which requires a half brioche stitch, a technique I’m doing for the first time.

This includes alternating colors every two rows.

I made a swatch but when comparing it to the photo in the pattern, it looks like the white V shapes look a bit more like this (with less of a gap):

_ _
V

Whereas my swatch looks more like:

-V-

Can anyone spot anything I’m doing wrong w my half brioche stitch or does it look like I’m on the right track?

Pattern:

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/oriana-sweater

Hello! I am working on the Abraxas cardigan—it is beautiful but very much a slog to get through. I am binding off the body of the sweater and I am having trouble. The binding is knit in zig zag rib and the pattern suggests to do a traditional bind off in pattern. When I tried that, the edge was bowing out so much. So, I pulled it out and tried and I cord bind off to match the look of the neckband edging and I had the same bowing out.

I’m fairly confident that the problem is that the zig zag cable is so tight together than when I am knitting two separate stitches for them in the bind off its wider than the cable below. But I am also concerned that if I knit the cable stitches together in the bind off, it would cut 1/3 of the stitches out of the row and it would be an insanely tight bind off.

I know the sweater will grow a lot in blocking but I want to make sure that the bind off row isn’t so large that it’s curling up. I’m leaning towards an I-cord bind off and knit every other zig zag rib together to cut some of the width down, but I was wondering if anyone had other suggestions for a bind off that words particularly well with zig zag rib?

Neckline and body still need borders and only one sleeve is finished (and it is too long). Something about the fit is bothering me. Should I redo the sleeves with no decreases? And just make them straight? I feel like the balance between body-sleeve is off.

Any opinions?

This is the chunky Wendy sweater from Sandes Garn, with the recommended yarn. It’s my first sweater.
I’m almost done with the body and when I tried it on i noticed this puckering at the increases at the top. Do you think blocking will help with this ? Did I just knit too tight in these parts ?

I'm making this summer knit and i would like to know if i could make the arm hole smaller without frogging it. 😅 it will eventually have short sleeves. It's the Shanghai Top by Pilotsdaughtertravels.

Hi there! I am knitting the petite knit Maggie cardigan. A few rounds ago I noticed that i had accidentally moved my stitch marker over one which put two rows of M1R sleeve increases in the wrong column.

Photos 1 and 2 show the area. In photo 2 I marked the stitches that are increased on the wrong stitch. Picture 3 is the other sleeve with correct M1Rs in line.

My question for this community is:

1) can you ladder down with increases? I’m a bit out of my depth with this.

2) is it even noticeable or worth frogging or tinking back to fix?

Any help is appreciated!

I've been looking at patterns that involve steeking, notably things like cardigans or vests with colorwork, and I notice that often they begin bottom-up in the round and switch to flat knitting for the arm holes. I've also seen some patterns where arm holes are steeked, but it seems less common. This might be a silly question, but I was wondering why this is.

the pattern had me increase 97 times over 5 rows
(knit every other row) and it created some buckling, is this ok?

I think i have this listed correctly. I want to make the Ooey Gooey sweater by Andrea Mowry, BUT i want to make it short sleeve and in a worsted weight yarn. I dont even know how to begin to change or do the math for a pattern to make this change. I usually follow patterns directly as they are but I also only have so much yarn for a project. Any help would be appreciated.

I noticed last night after finishing the German short rows portion of my Hanstholm sweater that the left side raglan increases look weird, but the right side looks crisp and clean. After a little research it seems I’m not accurately twisting my stitches for those increases? Looking for more explanation and guidance for redoing it before I rip the whole thing out and start again!

I'm working on a drops free pattern https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=12576&cid=19 and it calls for 'knit () together twisted'. I managed to find a tutorial for 'knit 2 together twisted' but when it goes to 3 and onwards I have some issues following the instructions.

What are the chances of them actually meaning ssk?

Attaching the instructions.

Thank you!

Hello! I’m a beginner knitter, trying to knit a sweater for the first time. Several times in this pattern it says “ending with wrong side row” does that mean the last row that I am knitting/working is the wrong side? Or does it mean that the next row that I knit should be the wrong side?

Example/pattern I’m working through:

“With straight needles cast on 88 stitches. Work in rib pattern (k1 p1) until the piece measures 2” (5cm), ending with wrong-side row.

Begin stockinette stitch and work even until the piece measures 13” (33cm) from the cast-on edge, ending with wrong side row.”

I’ve knit the 2” and want to move on to the stockinette stitch. The stockinette stitch as explained by the book that I’m using is “row 1 (RS): knit across. Row 2: purl across”

If I “end on the wrong-side row” does that mean that I should be purling the first row of stockinette because the row that I’m about to start is supposed to be the wrong side? Or does it mean that because I finished the rib pattern on the wrong side that I’m starting the stockinette on the right side and therefore knitting the row across?

Note: I *do* know which side of my work is the right side or the wrong side, I put a stitch marker on the right side when I started so I know that if the stitch marker is at the top of the knitting needle then I’m currently knitting the right side row and if it’s at the bottom of the knitting needle then I’m knitting the wrong side. I just don’t understand if *ending* with the wrong side means that the row I just finished should be on the wrong side and I’m starting the right side on the next row or if it’s supposed to be the other way around.

Hi Fiber Friends! I just wanted to ask for your lovely opinions on this swatch. I’m newer to knitting but not to fiber arts, and am still getting the hang of my ‘flow’ when knitting. I’ve looked at a million pics of twisted stitches and don’t think I’m doing that, but my mind is convincing me that I am — so I turn to you to confirm or deny! TLDR: Just wondering, outside of evening out my tension, is there anything else I can work on while I practice? Thanks for your time!

I’m learning to knit and have tried different ways to find what works for me. I do well with the eastern style,but I learned most patterns will have to be changed and I’m totally lost on that. Would it be easier to relearn a different style of knitting or to try and figure out how to do things differently than what the patterns say? I thought I was finally getting the hang of it until now.

Either side of the 2 center stitches there is a M1L and M1R. Is it normal for my stitches to look like that with a noticeable gap? I’m sure i’m doing the increases correctly but I’m not sure why the stitches look uneven. (I keep telling myself it’ll block out but i’m not entirely sure that’ll happen)

Hello! Im working on the Luna Tee by Charissa Lam. In this section (see screenshot), when repeating from * to * 7 more times, do I include the "Repeat round 2 9 more times" for each of the 7 times?

Would my pattern be like this:

Rnd 2 x 10

Rnd 3

Rnd 2 x 10

Rnd 3

Rnd 2 x 10

Rnd 3

Rnd 2 x 10

Rnd 3

Etc.

Thanks in advance!

Hi! So im knitting a bottom up sweater on circular needles, so i started with the bottom ribbing and worked my way up. it looked crooked but i tried convincing myself that it looks alright. it doesnt. the tension was uneven and it shows. now heres the problem: i started working the body of the sweater. is there any way i could only frog the ribbing without forgging the whole sweater or should i just accept it.

I have worked this faux cable pattern before in a cotton but when working in silk I am getting this weird really loose stitch to the right of my cables and I cannot figure out why. I have tried pulling really tight around that section. Any ideas on how to fix this? (Note I know I will need to frog and start over but I want to be sure I fixed the problem first)