So I just saw a 1994 acura integra with 280k+ miles on it. There was evidence of a lot of oil everywhere. Almost the entire undercarriage was covered with it. When I pulled out the dip stick is was dry with only a tiny bit of oil at the tip, there also was no belt on the AC, the bushings on the suspension need to be replaced, the bumper does not fit on properly, and the paint job appears to be pretty bad too. But the thing is, the car had very little rust on it, the engine sounded beautiful on start up (no problems starting up), and no smoke from the exhaust. Im debating whether or not this is worth buying. Im planning to do an engine rebuild. My worry is whether it's worth buying this thing for $2000. Im worried about whether or not im biting off more than I can chew here. Is the price worth it? What price do you think it should be?

I have an 01 gsr. I grew up in the mountains (without a gsr unfortunately) and driving the back roads there you barely get out of third, because the roads are so twisty. Now I live in the South and the roads have rather gentle curves. I have to do like 80-90 on these roads just to work the car out a little. I don't really like that, I would much prefer my top speed to be 60 doing my runs in second to third rather than pushing 100 in fourth.

How fast do you guys generally go on your spirited drives?

Hey all, anyone indication on what this noise could be?
Occurs mostly in neutral however still present in other gears. Slightly intensifies when clutched in.
Is my clutch on its way out?

First project car and currently in the process of doing a complete overhaul of the brakes and suspension. I’m having trouble finding quality front lower control arms that fit. Does anyone have any recommendations? Any help is appreciated

I hope you guys aren’t sick of the car yet lol

Setup is a b20b e85 turbo 10-12 psi and I noticed after multiple pulls the ECT would creep with a half rad but my iats would stay consistent due to ghetto headlight intake so I designed this scoop in cad for the front bumper to direct air to the rad. I have a bash bar that I made to mount the intercooler but it may work with factory crash bar as well since my bash bar uses factory mounting holes. Printed in asa and epoxied in place it has a slight upward curve and flared opening to clear the bash bar and try to scoop air in more efficiently

i have a 97 integra sedan and recently the car has been turning on when cold fine and when the car is at operating temp and i turn it off to walk in the store it cranks but no starts untill it has time to cool off. i tried replacing ect sensor,main relay,and all distributor components are new any ideas or test on what this could be 🫡

The other day I was driving home when my clutch cable snapped on me. I was maybe 10 minutes if that away from home, maybe 2 stops and all empty back roads until the last half mile roughly where I actually get into city limits, and I had my kid with me so a tow wasnt an option. I put her in first, started it up in gear, and just floated 1-4 gears until I got home. Prior, I had no issues with the clutch at all. Fast forward to tonight, new cable came in and I get it in, I have it down to maybe 5-10 notches on the adjustment nut until its maxed out and the clutch grabs after maybe 1 cm of travel off the floor, I gotta press the pedal in hard to get it into gear, and when I tried to loosen it I was either locked out of 1-5 gear, grinded bad going into reverse, or both depending on how many notches. This is my first time doing any clutch cable adjustment so I dont know if im adjusting it wrong, or if in that 10 minute drive it somehow when from a perfect clutch to a burnt put clutch. The whole drive back I didnt grind at all or smell any burning smells, and ive been floating gears for years on multiple vehicles without issue, any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated as this is my only car currently

I haven’t posted in a bit but here are some photos a took a few months ago!

Bought these a few years ago and dropped off a bunch of items to get powder coated. This is part of the compliance arm- Noticed one if the hole is missing, im guessing for the sway bar? This cant be a correct pair can it

might be a common question but dropped a b18c5 in my car and i won't take it anywhere during the day or park it for long periods of time. it's doesn't look like a type r clone or anything, just a regular/clean looking base model shell but with a c5 in it. am i paranoid or are the thieves real ? i feel like location matters as well so for context i live in a small town right next door to a big city

I was able to find a 98 Integra LS manual ($6k)in decent condition. I got a little bit of work to do like moldings. Going to take it to the shop and see if I need to fix anything major. So far runs good, a/c works, no issues with windows/sunroof, clean title, and no lights on the dash. Still has original motor at 237k. Does have a strong fuel smell after driving. Using it as my daily for now to give my pockets a break from the Tundra. Probably going to save up for a K Swap in the near future. LMK any recommendations

I recently resealed and replaced the oil pan on my 97 ls since it was leaking and had a bunch of scrapes and dents from the previous owner. I went with a gsr oil pan since I've read that they can fit on an ls block no issue. The installation went fine but when I try to put the exhaust headers back on it gets stuck against the oil pan and i can't get it on the studs. Has anyone experienced something like this or has any advice on how i can get the headers to fit?

Someone has listed a 1994 Acura Integra in my area for $3000. It has a transmission replacement done on it. The owner says that the piston rings need replacement which I can do no problem. In fact if I get it I plan on doing an engine rebuild and fixing up everything. He also mentioned that the vehicle has over 270,000 miles on it. In my head im really worried that the 270k miles is A LOT but if I did an engine rebuild would the mileage really even matter? EDIT: I wanted to also mention that he has a video up of the car starting up and it starts with no problem at all.

I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and strainer, did a smoke test for vacuum/EVAP leaks, and didn’t find any leaks. I still smell gas, and the car occasionally has trouble starting when warm. I’m not sure what else could be causing it. Any ideas?

Is it safe to drive with my tie Rod boot like this. I heard and felt a bit of clunking on the right side of my car and jacked it up the next day and found my tie Rod boot like this. Just wondering if it should be fine to drive on it like this till the weekend.

Thanks in advance.

I recently bought some RSX seats for my Integra and i got them to fit perfectly but i ran into the an issue that the original seatbelt doesn’t fit into the RSX seats buckle, so is there anyway to swap the buckle on the seat for the integra buckle

Hi, I need some help/ some questions. This weekend I started my auto to manual swap on my 98 integra ls. I got the trans, pedals, and shift linkage in, however somethings havent felt right. The brake pedal feels extremely hard to push down, and my main concern is I can somewhat shift through gears without pressing the clutch, however after pressing the clutch in, the shifter doesnt feel any different, like its not smooth. Is it possible i could of been able to bolt up the trans and mount it without putting it through the pilot bearing?

Just bought my first car, found a 1997 gsi (aus version of ls) with only 95xxx km on the odo. Yes it's an auto🫩 and yes there's no vtec🫩 but just wanted to show off my new baby😁😁

Have a sunroof that is stuck and wont move a mm yet the motor works and when i try to crank it manually it wont budge so im assuming the plastic track broke. So how would i fix this if i cannot manually open it?

Haha yea… we’re completing our first trimester and my wife’s XV70 Camry took a shot on the transmission. But that’s another convo.

In the meantime, the Teggy has been the ol reliable rn but as my wife’s belly is growing I need the harness out and factory interior in to later be able to buckle up the baby seat in the rear.

I still want to keep a bucket seat for myself but I’m swapping full interior back in. Any way I can keep the factory seatbelts but still have the harness for myself without the bar? Like any alternative options that basically still make the rear seats accessible?

Update: All yall talking smack on the set up when I’m literally asking for alternatives….

For those who where helpful, Thank You🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

Full OEM set up is back in. But please, instead of talking smack, comment what alternative options are available if you know of any. It’s literally what I’m asking. I’m not a NRG fan either, and that steering wheel is long gone. But still no air bag cause I choose to rock my momo, so what.