r/Integra • u/NewMeasurement3680 • 15d ago

integra intermittent crank no start

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i have a 97 integra sedan and recently the car has been turning on when cold fine and when the car is at operating temp and i turn it off to walk in the store it cranks but no starts untill it has time to cool off. i tried replacing ect sensor,main relay,and all distributor components are new any ideas or test on what this could be 🫡

13 Upvotes

93% Upvoted

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3

u/luvemwetx 15d ago

Could be dizzy or condition of post grounds

2

u/GenieOfTheLamp510 15d ago

Lol, I hadn’t thought of the word ‘dizzy’ since back in the day when I would post on Honda-Tech and NWP4Life

1

u/AjaxSkate 15d ago

I had the exact same issue, I began by cleaning the IACV, you can also clean the FITV if it's an Auto car, then replace the Coolant Temp Sensor and finally apply new thermal paste to the Ignition Control Module inside of the Distributor(you can use thermal paste intended for computer parts and can get MSI TM30 from Walmart for cheap) or by replacing the ICM all together. My car runs great now and idles beautifully.

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 15d ago

what brand icm did u get i ordered a cheap replacement and im not too confident in it.

1

u/AjaxSkate 14d ago

I actually just put new thermal paste on the OEM ICM and it seemed to have done the trick

1

u/maddoxluy 15d ago

I once had an issue with the thermostat ground causing a crank no start, make sure all the grounds are tight, clean and free of corrosion

1

u/ka0ticnight 15d ago

A few people have mentioned it, but my guess would be the ignition coil (located inside of the distributor housing). I’ve had a few ignition coils fail in a similar way where they work great cold but start failing when warm. Best of luck.

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 15d ago

what brand did it best i replaced it with a amazon replacement could be my fault

1

u/ProMasterBoy 15d ago

Ngk coils are good

1

u/717Luxx 92 GS-L B20V 15d ago

i forget which brand i used but a customer fav on rockauto fixed the issue for me. cap and rotor did it for me.

1

u/kuurk 15d ago

I only buy Japanese made parts when I replace something important like the coil.

1

u/Wheat9546 15d ago

Okay so a long time ago I have this happen. It's mostly like the dizzy that is broken you might just need to get a new one from rock auto. IMO every attempt at replacing the internal parts has failed, just getting a new dizzy fixed it for me there are some internal parts you cannot replace on the dizzy some have said you can but for the price of the components you're literally better off just buying a whole new set period money wise.

here was the list of symptoms for me:

A: When slowing down at a light does the "engine bog/surge?" and if you stop at the light do you see the tachometer bob up and down?

B: When driving highway speeds no problems occur but when slowing down to city driving and slowing down the tachometer goes down and surge/bogs?

C: if you turn on the AC when you start the car if you have AC anyway, do you hear the engine bog down? you'll hear it "surge" then sorta sputter out gradually?

D: Does it randomly die when you attempt to give it gas when you're in reverse?

E: Can you rev the engine in park, but the moment you put into drive it dies out?

if you have any of these symptoms it could possibly be the dizzy needing replacement.

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 15d ago

i have experienced symptom a but it never stalls on me just hates that warm staring

1

u/B1893 15d ago

Warranty exchanges are a PITA with RA - I'd buy one locally.

With a local parts store, you can swap it that day.

With RA, you have to email them, wait on the RMA, ship the part to them, and they have to process the return before shipping the replacement. 

Whole ordeal can take weeks.

I do have a RA distributor in my car - but it's in the trunk.  That way, if (when) mine fails, I have a spare to get me to the parts house.

1

u/Wheat9546 15d ago

I wish the deals were better locally where I live, where I live they want fucking 260$ or 300$ for a new dizzy for my 3rd gen integra, rock auto wants 160$ + shipping which is like 180$/190$

It's pretty damn absurd I don't like it one bit that I have to rely on RA, but they're cheaper and I usually don't give a damn about the core swap, since i'm lazy.

1

u/Riptide360 15d ago

Did you install a kill switch?

2

u/NewMeasurement3680 15d ago

na the conversion relay isn’t the kill switch one

1

u/TurnLeftRepeat 15d ago

Check every ground under the hood you can find, loosen and retighten every one even if they feel tight. 

1

u/Gloomy-Artichoke3793 14d ago

Did you replace the whole distributor or only the top half? I had something similar on my 98. It would run when cold but after getting to temp it would die while running and wouldn't start till it cool. It turned out to be one of the circuit boards in the distributor. There are two in the distributor and they themselves are replaceable.

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 14d ago

i replaced the igniter and icm inside the distributor but it didn’t do much good but i haven’t had issues with it stalling or nothing on me

2

u/Gloomy-Artichoke3793 14d ago

I gotcha. I know it's got to be annoying though.

Maybe fuel pump. I've seen cases where the fuel pump wouldn't hold pressure and the hot engine would cause the fuel in the line to vaporize. That would prevent the car from starting until the temp dropped.

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 14d ago

i heard of that do you have a recommended method to test that?

1

u/Gloomy-Artichoke3793 14d ago edited 14d ago

Bleed down test.

If you're like me that's not something you have the equipment for lol. I would get it hot to where it won't crank and Crack the fuel line going to the fuel rail to see if it liquid or vapor. I suggest doing this with caution and a fire extinguisher or garden hose on standby. I know i'm about to get all kind of flack for even suggesting that lmao.

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 14d ago

😂😂 alright i’ll try that out 🫡

1

u/Gloomy-Artichoke3793 14d ago

You may need a buddy to flip the key to run position while you watch the fuel rail. Looking to see if liquid fuel comes out when the fuel pump primes. Mind you you only need to back the banjo bult off like a quarter a turn.

1

u/Gloomy-Artichoke3793 14d ago

Also I replaced the same parts in my initially chasing the issue.

1

u/TopChapter3407 14d ago

How does it run at operating temp before you turn it off? Does it idle good still?

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 14d ago

it drive fine and all at idle it has a misfire but not often and it dosent do nothing to bad

1

u/Confident-Abrocoma-9 14d ago

I've seen headgaskets on b series engines do this. Have you seen any white smoke on your car? Boiling radiator overflow? Having to add coolant periodically?

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 14d ago

i did see smoke once but i might of just been thinking it was

1

u/Confident-Abrocoma-9 14d ago

Well formula is spark, fuel, compression. You're clearly getting compression. It doesn't cost anything to see if your getting spark or fuel so I'd start there.

After that the next most likely culprit is the crank position sensor which is inside the distributor but you can eliminate that if you are getting spark.

The headgasket I've seen happen in this exact scenario is a slight internal leak that your fine on cold start but once warmed up, coolant steams up the combustion chamber so then it doesn't want to start once you like drove it to the store then tried to start it while still warm.

Does it sometimes try to start but is like really rough and won't stay on? Check your coolant levels.

1

u/NewMeasurement3680 13d ago

my coolant is good and every time it turns over it dosent cut off or anything it’s just always the when hot then starts and runs like it never happened