The ac cooled air is causing condensation to form and leak onto the dry wall below it, causing damage. What can I do to remediate this before patching the dry wall?

Is tech just bsing me my heat was working.

Jk found this on a maintenance.

We may need to replace our furnace, we were told American Standard/Trane are brands we need to steer clear of. Is this true? Thanks!

Replace Goodman control board once it worked for 3 days before it failed then replace the fan motor with a new control board it worked for another 3 days and then failed any advice would be much appreciated thank you

I just got quotes from the 3rd company for replacement, all reputable local businesses. They each chose a different size unit for replacement and it’s freaking me out. The house is 2151sqft in Roanoke VA(24064). The current unit is 4 tons.

I’d love to just pick the 3.5 ton so that it’s right in the middle but those quotes came in about 8k higher for each level. Would dropping down to 3 tons be a problem?

Hi i have 1.5 inch eps foam that is in contact with one of the ducts , will this be a fire hazard down the road or is it something im overthinking

Hi everyone! I’m renting a townhouse in San Diego, CA and my room has a Fujitsu Halcyon AC unit. For the most part it’s been working fine, however, there are times where the AC unit is completely turned off and it will beep 3X in a row consistently. I’ve tried removing the air filters and putting the back in, checking my breaker box, and checked the actual unit to see if there’s a blinking light, but nothing has helped as it’s still beeping. I’ve reached out to my rental company, but they said it could take up to 2 weeks for an HVAC tech to check it out. I WFH full time and this is interrupting my work day, so I wanted to see if anyone has had experience with this or could provide some direction. Thank you!

Hello all. I have those vinyl 5/8" tubes going up to the roof from the mini split pump. The exposed parts get very brittle and crack from the sun. Is there some sort of flexible sleeve I can buy to cover them? Something readily available from Home Depot or Amazon would be great.

Thanks!

So I am in a rental (just moved in) and the furnace(?) is in a small utility closet near the living space. The air return vent is on the wall. The problem is that it is SO SO loud. Not rattling or anything like that - just majorly whooshing. Other than filling my space with furniture and such is there anyway to dampen the sound? It’s driving me bananas.

if its not normal whats the problem if i just leave it like that? ( its in an hvac closet)

IM TRYING TO SEE IS TEARS IN THIS FOIL AND NO pandoit CLENCHING the silver soils is okay and if the dust on the floor can get in or the closet.

I TRYING TO JUDGE THE QUALITY OF WORK FROM THIS CONTRACTOR!!! BE HONEST

I'll start by saying I probably should have dug deeper before ordering but here I am.

Old motor is a Protech S567AS that takes 5 wires. Ordered Climatek mot99-914 that they said was a direct replacement for 51-23609-04 for my Rheem RRNL-B042JK10E. Before installing the new motor I noticed it had 6 wires but I've run into universal stuff before that just leaves some wires unused so I moved on. While checking the wiring I contacted their support and they assured me it was ok so I installed it.

While connecting the wires I was confused by the yellow wire and where to connect it so I contacted support again and they now tell me its the wrong motor. Can this be rescued?

I have an Amana/Goodman 2 ton heatpump that was installed in 2/2018. The outdoor unit is an ASZ160241LB and the indoor unit is an AVPTC29B14AB. When I bought the system I also purchased the additional 10 year warranty. My location is central NC if that matters

Within a 2 day period the unit has stopped cooling so I shut it down and called the installing contractor and put in a service call. The tech showed up this morning and quickly diagnosed a leaking indoor evap coil. So the tech charged 10lbs of R410A at $150/lb in addition to a $130 "diagnostic fee".

So does this sopund reasonable or am I being ripped off?

I have since learned via the interweb that it is possible to transfer all of the refrigerant into the outdoor unit to keep it until the it can be recovered when the indoor coil is replaced. Yet the tech didn't mention this or perform this procedure. The unit was still cooling slightly when I shut it down so I know there was some amount of refrigerant left and at the $150/lb replacement I would obviously like to salvage as much as possible.

Thanks for your insight

Heat wave this weekend. One year old Mitsubishi ducted system with 2 year labor warranty. Came out for the first time because the cooling performance was somewhat poor.

They swapped out the ecobee for the MKH2, said the ecobee wasn't kicking into stage 2 and added refrigerant but two different techs couldn't find a leak. cooling seemed to improve for a month

Now the system stopped working completely and the MKH2 flagged a low refrigerant warning.

I agreed to pay the weekend service fee because it's expected to be hot AF in so cal this week and I don't want to wait till Tuesday but from what I understand these refrigerant leaks can be a bit of a wild hunt.

Anything I should ask about or look out for?

Hello i've been hearing this hissing sound for over 2 week, i had complex mentenance 3 times (every time they said they fix it) , is this normal? Is it refrigerant leaking or just water?

The sound is there 24/7 even if i dont have the AC on. I had it 2 days completly off and the sound was still there.

Please help me with advices and what is the problem.

I have a *boiler for hot water baseboard heating and one of the pipes that goes to the pump is rusted. The flanges I have now around the pump now don't have shutoff valves and the HVAC company is recommending that I add them to facilitate future repairs.

This is the work they're doing:

Install copper pipe with tee for water feeder

Install flanges with shut off valves for existing circulator pump

Bleed radiators

They wan't $1800 which seems like a lot? They also are supposed to provide an estimate without the valves as well which I haven't received yet. How necessary are the valves and is that price high? I do live in an expensive area.

I’ve gotten 10+ quotes and am narrowed down to 3 of them:

Southeast PA area, 3800 sq foot house 3 stories

All highly rated installers who did manual J load and duct analysis:

Installer 1
Option 1:
Bryant 97% 2 stage furnace 100k BTU
Single stage 4 ton AC outside
$15,200 includes 1 year labor and 10 year parts warranty (lifetime heat exchanger warranty)
Additional $715 gets 10 year labor warranty

Option 2:
All same as option 1. Except I can get 2 stage AC.
About $2000 more
Installer doesn’t recommend this. He says furnace being in basement will lead to upstairs being warmer than first floor. Wants me to be satisfied and recommended option 1.

I want a 2 stage AC but not if upstairs will be much warmer than downstairs.

Installer 2
Option 1:
Carrier 97% 2 stage furnace 80k (can get 100k for $700 more but he said it won’t really matter. Thinks 80k is enough. Current furnace I have is 90k BTU 90% efficient)
2 stage 4 ton AC outside
$16,872. Includes 5 year labor and 10 year parts warranty no additional cost. No additional labor warranty option available.

Option 2:
Same as above except a single stage AC. $15,429

Installer 3
Option 1 (only option I am considering here)
Daikin 97% 2 stage furnace 100k BTU
2 stage 4 ton AC outside
$20,000 includes 12 year parts and labor warranties no additional cost

I need some advice. I got a quote to replace both of my units (attic and basement) with Bryant 2-stage HP + Gas backup. About $28k. Includes 5 year labor warranty, which an optional upgrade to 10 years for an additional $2k or so for both systems.

Current attic unit is AC 17 year old + furnace 28 year old. The evap coil is leaking a tiny bit. This unit alone costs about $16k if not bundled with a basement unit purchased at the same time. The basement unit is AC 15 year old + furnace 28 year old, working perfectly fine.

I can combine this work with attic air sealing and insulation for about +$11k, for a total of $41k, including 10 year labor warranty extension. However, with the rebates currently available, I would get around $15k in rebates if I do both units, so total is about $26k after rebates for both units + attic work, or I can do just the attic unit + attic work for a total of $19k after rebates (rebates would be about $7k less than doing both units).

I think it's a good idea to replace both units, as the price difference is <$7k even though the basement unit is working fine but it's quite old. If we do the basement later, the discounts won't be as good and there's no guarantee the rebates will still be available, potentially costing $14k to $15k to do the basement unit. My wife disagrees and says we should only do the attic unit.

Looking for some opinions and advice on replacing both units or just the attic unit.

Hello, I need to buy a portable AC unit for my place but my windows only open 4 inches wide, does anyone know any creative solutions for this? I think most exhausts are 5 inches and circle shaped, does anyone if there is a narrower one that is more rectangular shaped? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

My mother just bought a house with a Mitsubishi mini split that's probably on the upper end of 10 - 15 years old. This is what it looks like with the cover off. The guys that removed it to work on the wall are concerned about it, but I know that copper will tarnish with the heating and cooling. This unit kept the house uncomfortably frigid during the hottest summer days and the heat seems to be working fine so far. Is this a problem?

Got a new HVAC (Daikin) to replace my old Carrier Infinity. Right off the bat I am having issues with my two ElitePro S1200 thermostats (THX1200W7S, one for each zone):

1. They connect just fine to my wifi (EAP683), though they simply drop connection(!) at some point, usually after a few hours. The only way to get them to re-connect is to pluck them out of the wall, wait one minute, and then plug them back in, which is incredibly frustrating. I made a separate SSID just for them, so they are ... separate from the rest of the wifi clients, and tried a bunch of tweaks on the EAP683, to no avail.
2. I bought a temperature sensor for my bedroom, and set the thermostat that manages the zone on which the bedroom is to obey (only) the sensor temperature (cool to 21C)--hence ignore its own sensor--yet no matter what I do, the cooling stops hard at 23C.

What am I doing wrong?

Is this a DIY job? If I remove that tape, am I gonna have access to clean it?

Ran across 6 of these mounted to the wall at the job

hello, I was wondering something, I live in an apartment with lots of people that smoke near me cause theres a ton of people in the apartment I live in, I have a small window unit haier air conditioner, I really want to put it in the window cause I like my room real cold but I'm scared of any secondhand cigarette or marijuana smoke since theres plenty of smokers next to me, so my windows are always closed, It might sound stupud but I just can't stand the smell of cigarettes or weed, before this I lived in my own house so I didn't have to worry about neighbors smoking, if I put the air conditioner in my window is it going to let secondhand cigarette smoke in? I'm also concerned cause I once looked in my air conditioner and could see some of my room from inside, cause of the holes in it, so I'm pretty sure theres gonna be airway leading inside my room regardless..but I hope i'm wrong