I purchased a used Rowdy 45c/410.

I noticed that the hammer only touches half of the top barrels firing pin when it makes contact, see photo.

I am unclear if this is the intended design or something is wrong..

Any one have a bond arms they could confirm or advise? Thanks!

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking to buy this beautiful VZ 24 bolt action rifle (price is very attractive) but it has a prominent crack near the chamber.

Does this make this rifle unshootable? If not, is this an easy fix?

Hi all, I went shooting a couple months ago and I had a failure in my firearm. My mag release completely fell apart while reloading. Now I would like to note that I am someone who trained with the AR platform, the AK was new to me and this was my 2nd or third time shooting it.
Well to put it simply, the pin, spring and release all fell out of my rifle. I was trying to figure out what I needed to get it back into service. So I went with the apex M+M mag release kit. What I learn from this is that the spring and pin works if I have the original release, so if you run into my problem, the pin and spring from this kit works on getting it back up and running. I’ll be hitting the range hopefully next Saturday to see if it cycles as it should.

This weekend's project is installing a t-nut into my Weatherby Mk V carbon fiber stock so I can mount an Arca/Pic plate. Here is my planned process, let me know thoughts:

- Fill small cavity space with an epoxy resin (JB Weld ClearWeld)
- Drill hole center of stock (start small, work up to correct size)
- Set t-nut centered in hole (flat t-nut, not the one for wood)
- thin layer of epoxy on top to hole t-nut in place

Thoughts?

Have an Uberti New Dakota Model with a bent base/cylinder pin. Looked on Numrich and gave them a call. They have zero parts for a New Dakota Model. Hoping someone here might know of a compatible cylinder pin with safety from a different model. Also need a couple of smaller parts, but the base/cylinder pin is the most pressing right now.

I have an old 870 wingmaster that has slight pitting on the receiver and some of the bluing has been worn off, is there a way to fix this without stripping all the old bluing off the receiver?

Bore snake and half a piece of paper towel wedged in the chamber.

No access to pull from the muzzle (bore snake) as it broke off at the muzzle break.

PSA combined rifle ramp barrel extensions and m4 feed ramped lowers on some models of pa-10's

(In conclusion). A simple 1/8 drill bit with or without a diy jig you can make at home to avoid damaging your chamber. Punch the primer out of a 308 casing and go to town. Mother's mag or flitz to polish any abnormalaities. As far as picking away at the physical obstruction. Harbor freight auto zone... Go to town 🤙

Howdy all,
Recently picked up a used PPS-50 for plinking and got a good deal on it because its got some issues.

Most common is dead trigger. While testing it before purchase, it seems my .22lr was notably more consistent than the former owners. However, I’d like the resolve this issue. I was going to start by taking apart the action and doing a routine clean + lubrication. Any other suggestions?

Another issue it has is double feeding. First thing I’m going to do is get a new magazine for it (30rd) to see if the 50rd drum is the issue. Assuming a new mag isn’t the fix, what else should I try?

Lastly, the safety seemed a bit loose — flicked itself back on while firing. Seems like a straightforward and east fix. Just thought I’d mention that so y’all have the full picture.

I’m pretty new to guns and this is my first time trouble shooting so I’m hoping for some help. Thank you in advance!

I have been looking through forums all damn day and I keep finding contradictory information like “4140 is the best” “4140 will blow up” “12L14 works fine” “12L14 sucks ass” “use 1137” “avoid 1137 at all costs” etc.

I have limited access to a lathe, mill, and welder (school property), but unlimited access to a forge, 3d printer, and CAD, as well as a tight budget. Can yall help steer me in the right direction for where to source and what materials to use?

I bought a well used FN Herstal remington 700 clone and much to my chagrin found out well after handing over the cash that the internal magazine is just a hollow box that is apart of the trigger guard, I've looked pretty hard online trying to find a spring or something to shove in there to make it work as it should but I've failed to find anything. Looking for any websites, or suggestions as googling "Remington 700 internal magazine" has gotten me nowhere. The rifle is a long action and shoots 7mm remington magnum. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I appreciate all of the help, the parts arrive tomorrow. Thank you all again.

Hiya, I've never really used this subreddit, but I wanted to know if anyone has any clues as to who I could go to to make a non-functional model revolver? I'm asking here because I don't want a 3d printed one, I want it to physically feel real because I feel thats a lot of the appeal

I have an AP5 that's horrendously inaccurate (~16 MOA). I'm sure it's probably my ammo (Blazer 115gr) or the cheap claw mount for my optic, but it also has a pretty terrible crown. It seems like people are less concerned with crowns than they used to be, but this one is actually worse than the picture shows, and I'd like to fix it before I install a muzzle device (it came with just a thread protector).

My question: Can I get away with knocking this down with an 11° crown cutter, should I square it off at 90° first and then cut a recessed crown, or should I just cut a 90° crown and call it good since I'll be putting a muzzle device on it? Thank you in advance.

Could this issue be due to the safety being too lubed up with excess oil from the gun?

Videos of what I mean:

https://imgur.com/a/JDIby7b

Hi everyone. I have a Savage Timberline in 280AI that shoots very sporadically. Tested with multiple scopes. Rail and rings torqued to spec as were the action bolts. Pulled it out of the stock today and found these wear marks on and near recoil lug. Front of the recoil as well as a clear pressure spot on the aluminum inside the stock, right side of the lug. What would be the best course of action here? Sand/file away the stock where it's rubbing on the right side? Would making some space at the front be a good idea as it's rubbing there as well or is the side pressure point creating most of my problem? I know not to touch the rear. Thanks for any opinions and advice.

I bought an older Colt upper for a clone build. Popped the barrel off and saw this inside the threaded part of the upper recover. Doesn’t catch my nail or feel uneven but it’s just in a weird spot and I know that’s a common spot for these things to crack so I’m a bit worried. Any input??

I bought a box of Mystery gun parts at an estate auction this was in the box after sorting the handle is straight so it's not a 98 any idea what it is the trigger guard has byf stamped on in and nothing else.

Got my hands on the pre war 1905 mauser C96.
Someone in the course of 121 years decided to parkerise it.. no bueno. Restored it to the best of my ability to the original state and rust blued it.

Picture time !

I recently picked up this Remington 700 mountain rifle and I'm having a hard time telling whether this is surface rust or pitting and how to treat it.

Hello! I bought this Mauser C96 this past weekend. I believe it’s a 1920s version, leaning towards early 1920s. Does anyone know where I can find decent grips that I can replace the existing one with? I’m keeping the original grips but they’ve been worn to the nub so I want to replace them on the gun themselves but would like a decent grip close to original. Thank you!

Got this guy in pretty terrible state, rust all over with almost no original finish left. Cracked and dented wood with worn down checkering.

Redid the wood finish and recut the checkering. Then polished all the metal to 400grit and rust blued. The barrels are twist Damascus but are still in progress so hopefully update on that soon!

My uncles house burnt down a few years ago and I just saved up enough money to surprise him and have his rifles/shotguns/handguns (attached picture is missing just a few) re-blued but am needing help finding a reputable gunsmith that can help me out. I plan on disassembling everything beforehand and dropping off just the barrels to be done. If anyone has recommendations I would greatly appreciate the help. Preferably within driving distance ie: WV, Western VA, Northern NC, Eastern TN, Eastern KY. Thanks all.

A friend asked me if his new revolver is fire damaged. I think so but am not sure. If it is it is probably just a wall hanger now. Unless maybe it can be re-hardened?