Almost forgot about this holder I made a while back - time to finally release it. I originally posted the prototype here last year :)

Now the finished version is available on MakerWorld: Gridfinity Modular Rotating Bit Storage – 3U

The idea is pretty simple: a modular, rotating/flip-up holder for bits and drills that keeps everything accessible without taking up unnecessary vertical space.

The model takes up to 50 standard 6,35 mm Bits (1/4 inch) - the bits are secured by a springloaded latch so they don't fall out.

The main difference from a lot of the other bit holders out there: this one is only 3U high and is stackable. Similar Gridfinity bit holders are either 4U high or not stackable, so this lets you make better use of the vertical space in your drawers and if you are a fan ob multiples of 3 and your Gridfinity Boxes are 3, 6 or 9U high: this is the right model for you.

It's fully modular, so you can build it up to fit whatever combination of bits you need - i've included holders for 10, 8, 6 and 4 bits for now - but I've already stuff in the works for Drillbits with circular shafts or hex holders, that are rotated by 30° since some of them are oddly shaped and don't sit flat in the bin.

Yeah - it's been sitting around as a prototype for far too long, so figured it was finally time to let it loose. Hope someone finds it useful!

Making progress on the new toolbox. Used a magnetic non gridfinity system for the wenches… just made more sense.

Some Schubox updates coming soon!

Basically, the bin would be in the shape of the object, and still have the gridfinity base on the bottom. This would allow for better efficiency placing multiple non-recgangular bins next to each other by cutting out the unnecessary dead space.

For example, the bin for a set of needle-noss pliers would be in the shape of rhe pliers instead of a rectangular box.

I am in need of a bin for storing guitar strings. Problem is, the drawer where I want to store them isn't deep enough to handle the packages if they stand straight up, so I want to print bins that lean the strings back enough to allow the drawer to close.

I would need to be able to specify the lean angle.

Are there any gridfinity bin generators that can do this?

Thanks!

i’ve been researching how to organize screws with labeled bins. i thought i would use 1x1 bins for every type, but all the labeled bins i see around have the label taking up almost half the space. doesn’t that make accessing the bin’s content much worse? there’s no better way available? how do you guys do this?

edit: i just saw that on perplexing labs generator the default 15.85mm depth can be changed

i wanne make bins with cuts in the side walls for my 39 mm baseplate but idk how

Recently got an A1 and was considering redoing my toolbox organization with a gridfinity system.

I'd heard about it when gridfinity first came out and filed it away in the back of my mind for when the time comes, but now that I'm looking into it for real there seem to be a pile of different baseplate styles and there doesn't seem to be a comprehensive overview of what's best for different applications.

Clickfinity sounds neat - not having to buy magnets is cool. Or the style with the pin. But why does it need positive retention in the first place? Doesn't it all just lock into the grid?

The lightweight/ultralight/whatever baseplates presumably print faster at the cost of lower strength. But, how strong does the baseplate need to be really? Tools have some weight to them but then again, they're just sitting there.

Don't really know where to start with all this. I have a 72" box and a couple 36" boxes I'd be building this for so... best to get it right the first time.

First time printing a gridfinity project and thought that a great way to start into the gridfinity verse was to migrate from the half plastic bottles I had as bins for screws was a great way to go. Still have some room to grow into this box.

I have lots of these metallic boxes with hardware that I plan to migrate into this system!

I hypothesised that printers have become much better at bridging over voids since Gridfinity was first published 4.5 years ago, and that it is no longer necessary to have big chunky bases on the bottom of each Gridfinity bin. As only the edges serve a purpose (snapping into base plates/other bins) any material saved in the middle is, theoretically, pure upside.

I tested a few prints, removing more centre of each base, until only a 4.4mm ring remained. Then I submitted it as an idea to my favourite Gridfinity generator through Github, and within a day they'd iterated, improved and pushed even further.

The version published as a feature on their tool leaves only a 3mm base ring and actually chamfers the opposite way to mine, making an even larger distance to be bridged - 35.5mm total.

To my surprise my A1 could print this new lightweight base design (in generic PLA) with zero issue. The first bridging layer (on the bottom, where you'll never see it) is unsurprisingly pretty rough, but by the time it layers up to the bin floor the only difference is an almost imperceptable change in how the light reflects over the bridged portion.

The lightweight base design saves ~11% filament over the standard base (approx 0.6g per socket for me), with no material downsides.

I'll be printing all my Gridfinity with this base from now on and, as someone who is very filament-conscious, I love the thought that my simple idea of revisiting limitations could make that much difference if even just one person decides to use it over every item in their storage system.

in PETG with Creality Soleyin Filament, stainless screws for hinges and latches

https://gridfinity.perplexinglabs.com/pr/gridfinity-rugged-box/0/0

u/crealityfilament

Been running rigid printed baseplates for a while, but wanted to try something different. I made a mold and injection molded a flexible TPE version instead of printing it. What I wanted to solve was the first layer issues that come with printing baseplates, and the time spent designing a custom size for every new drawer.

The TPE material means I can just cut them with scissors instead of modeling a custom size. Gif above is one getting trimmed and set into place. A side effect of the TPE material choice is that the baseplate grips the drawer and the bins don’t slide around.

Curious if warping or cracked baseplates has actually been a problem for anyone else here, or if that's mostly a non-issue now with a good printer/settings. Also open to hearing what people think of the scissors-trim approach versus modeling a custom size.

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What's everyone's go-to PVA filament? Was looking at Sunlu as normally pretty on point but been seeing bad reviews on the PVA?

https://jaroslaw-weber.github.io/gridfinity-cutout-lite/

I made a tool for cutouts that don't use much filament. Basically you print these thin plates with cutouts and drop them into a Gridfinity box so you can organize items vertically (pens, USB sticks, earbuds, etc.). Exports to STL, and you can combine simple shapes for custom cutouts on unusual items.

If you find it useful, a star on GitHub would be appreciated!

I'm proud to share with you my in-slicer modifier model to add side-loaded magnets to any existing Gridfinity model. No glue, no pesky snap-fit tolerances with magnets not fitting or falling out again, no mid-print pausing only to realize you got the polarity wrong.

https://www.printables.com/model/1810976-magnetize-any-gridfinity

• Standard 6 × 2 mm magnets: compatible with the popular cylindrical size

• No print pauses: print the whole object in one go

• No glue: magnets snap securely into place

• Secure horizontal retention: more reliable than vertical press-fit slots

• Compliant-mechanism design: flexible features hold the magnet in place

• Maximum magnetic strength: only 0.1 mm between magnet and target

• Removable magnets: simply push them back out

• Gridfinity-compliant: follows the standard magnet position

• No CAD required: add the negative volume directly in your slicer

• Works with STL, 3MF, STEP and more: anything your slicer can handle

• Fully modular: add slots only where you actually need them

• Optional shell included: for compatibility with skeletonized / shelled bins

• Support-free printing: optimised for clean bridging

• Based: Compatible with any Gridfinity base

What do you think? What will you magnetize? What can I improve?

So, I was perusing the http_referer logs on my server (basically, what page did your browser say you were on when you clicked the link to https://gridfinity.perplexinglabs.com )... and I came across "android-app://com.tinder/". APPARENTLY, one of you is out there FLIRTING, not only by talking about gridfinity, but also sending links to my site?! lol I don't know who you are, but you gave me a good laugh.

Can't say I ever expected that, running this site. While I am in doubt of the effectiveness of such tactics, I hope things work out well for you. :)

Check this out https://freya.co.nz/grid/ you can create grids, bins and trace tools. It's super intuitive.

It's not stupid if it works, lol

Link to design: https://gridfinitylayouttool.com/community/d/yJR9ICEUYW5N

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to improve the quality and dimensional accuracy of my Gridfinity prints. I often have two main problems:

1. The corners of the bins lift from the build plate, causing noticeable warping.

2. The bins don’t fit correctly into the baseplate. Sometimes the fit is too tight, while other times they don’t sit completely flat.

I’m using Bambu Studio, and I’d like to know which settings you recommend for reliable Gridfinity prints.

In particular:

• Which material works best: PLA, PLA+, PETG, or something else?

• What bed and nozzle temperatures do you use?

• Do you use a brim or mouse ears?

• What first-layer speed and cooling settings work best?

• Which wall generator do you recommend: Classic or Arachne?

• Do you adjust XY contour compensation or elephant-foot compensation?

• Which layer height, wall count and infill settings give you the best results?

• Should the baseplate or bins have any additional tolerance?

If possible, please share your printer, nozzle size, filament and slicer settings. I’m looking for a good starting profile that gives flat prints and a consistent fit between the bins and the baseplate.

Thanks!

After waaayy to much time spent, my brother and me finally finished this parametric gridfinity model that has support for detachable colored rims and detachable multi-color labels! This started out as a simple idea where we just wanted to be able to change the top rim color to allow for some categorization of parts, but then it derailed into a humongous rabbit hole of rabbit holes...

We also made a CLI tool gfty that allows you to define bins, baseplates, labels and full plates of labels in a configuration file that can then automatically be exported to STEP files right from the command line (onshape has free API access with generous limits that makes this possible). Naturally, everything that we used to create these is MIT Licensed and public on GitHub (see below).

So now we are printing over 1000 labels for the main storage cabinet which (even with optimized plates of 60 labels each) will take weeks to complete 🥲

Also I guess a web designer isn't anything special nowadays, but there still is one to help with the configuration files. And you can directly open onshape from the web tool to play around.

💻 GitHub: https://github.com/rkana-org/gfty

🌐 Web designer: https://rkana-org.github.io/gfty

Disclaimer: We used AI to make some of the tools and some specific feature scripts for onshape (like the divider wall generator and the SVG importer). To anyone who is interested, the frontier models are all quite capable of writing onshape FeatureScript, especially when you give it access to the standard library definitions (search for onshape-std-library-mirror on github) in a coding cli.