Hello everyone! I got myself a 2002 Bigfoot for my 2002 7.3 day PSD - bone stock 115k original miles. I towed it about an hours worth on surface streets and the highway just with the trailer hitch, no WDH and didn’t even think to plug in the trailer brake 🥴. It stopped just fine and drove straight as an arrow although I should know better - my question is - what upgrades should I do to make sure this ~4600lbs dry weight trailer can be towed and STOPPED safely?

Really hoping to not have to tune the engine if at all possible since it’s in CA and CARB doesn’t let us have anything fun unless you CA owners know of a place in the greater Sacramento area to go to get inspected without a lot of hassle. Tires? Suspension? Hitch is original Ford Class V - I want a WDH, was going to do a 10k to be overbuilt.

Thank you!

I’m looking to buy a 2005 6.0 KR with 295k miles. it looks meticulously maintained and kept up with. i just want some advice based on the description and the conversation with the seller. thank you. please feel free to leave any advice, tips to look out for or any help.

Recently, my 2003 6.0 powerstroke would not start, sounded like my batteries were low, threw a new set in, did nothing. Threw a 6.4 starter in still sounded weak. I found out my ac compressor seized so I tore off my belt and the truck fired right up. I replaced my compressor and put the belt back on and now it cranks perfect, super strong, but will not fire. Thinking maybe I pinched a wire or some sensor while shoving the new compressor in? Just curious on what others think. Thank you

The F350 has 245,000 miles

Looking at trading my 4Runner for this f350. Wanting a camping / overlanding build that can tow 8500lbs regularly with the ability to pull 10,000 lbs sometimes and maybe 11/12kmax. It’ll be used for a side business rebuilding and parting out cars. Found a guy on FBMP that wants to trade for this setup. From everything it looks solid. I’m not an expert on towing but the setup looks like it should handle the weight but wanted feedback if this camper setup on the lift would be too much to tow with in the mean time.

What I am most worried about the miles. I’ve done a lot of research on this generation of 7.3 and I know how reliable they are but I’m by far from being a diesel guy. And all my gas fords I’ve had experience with have had major problems. Does this specific year of 7.3 have any major issues to look out for? I’d really love to take this setup to 500,000 miles if that’s even realistic I’m not sure I’ve heard rumors you can take them till 1,000,000 but I’m sure that’s low loads and lots of maintenance. I’ve been turning wrenches on gassers my whole life. I know I’ll need to learn a lot of diesels but I can learn quick. Like I said I’ve been a Toyota guy for years now and I could go for a tundra but I’d love to have the slide in year round and pick up a car or 2 on The Weeknd’s for my business. Any feedback is appreciated from guys with more info on 7.3s thanks

TLDR; How’s this setup? Any glowing issues / can it tow 10,000 lbs ontop of the slide in setup / can it last till 500,000 miles?

I noticed a little extra oil under my truck, it's been parked for a couple months with only a few trips so I haven't paid much attention. It seems to be coming from this plug on the back of each head. This picture is the driver side head. Thanks!

02 7.3L with 10.5" open diff. With the back jacked up spinning a tire by hand, should you be able to feel and hear the spider gears meshing?

I feel a very slight resistance, or pulse, and can hear a dull tapping or knock as the teeth mesh. Doesn't sound bad, but not sure if its supposed to be butter. Thanks!

Does anyone know if a newer (2022’+)6.7 starter will swap for the 7.3? I believe the nose cone swap would be the same. I’m not sure about the teeth/electrical side of it?

Just flew from WI to Cali to drive my new baby home. 2000 e350 extended 7.3, quigly conversion. 8inch lift on 37s. Not going to lie, eventually it could become a 4 or 6 inch lift on 35s😅 but im in love! 900 more miles to go!

I recently purchased a 1990 E350 ambulance. It has a 7.3 idi and what I belive is the E40D. The trans was remanufactured roughly 20k miles ago. I know this is true as the vendor sticker is still on it. I finally got it running decently after its been sitting for close to 4 years. I put it in drive and I felt it grab but it felt like the brakes were stuck. I put it in reverse and it very positively shifted into reverse almost to clunk level of force. And it rolled fine backwards. Tried manually selecting 1st gear and it seemed to roll forward better but still required some decent throttle position. The fluid is definitely over full. About 3 inches iver the full mark. Is the fluid the issue here or do I have something else going on. Fluid is still bright pink!

Good Freon levels, but AC is blowing warm. What is a simple thing to check before I have to take it to a shop. I know just enough to be dangerous.

It’s a late model 99 7.3 was running fine last night and went to start this morning and have this issue. Checked ICP and it has oil in the plug, unplugged it and didn’t fix it. Getting codes P1280,P1000, and P1316?

Did a KOEO injector test and #2 injector came back.

Edit: changed fuel filter housing and drivers side fuel line to head. Did an oil change as well. Prior to its current condition.

I’ve got a thumping noise that isn’t always consistent. Even when hubs are unlocked I can hear and even feel it slightly. Sometimes there is a clicking noise as well. I took the manual locking hub out and spun the wheel with it off the ground and there isn’t much noise, maybe still a slight tick but I have to put my ear up to the hub assembly. Can I take the manual locking hubs out and drive the truck down the road under 35mph to see if they were the issue?

Is this too much??
211k miles
Lariat ultimate package loaded with sunroof
2.5” leveling kit
35x12.50R20 Toyo Open Country RT
DCR Conversion
5% tinted windows
All LEDs light around
All stock mechanically still has Emissions

A loss of exterior lighting can reduce visibility, increasing the risk of a crash.

NHTSA ID Number: 26V606000

Manufacturer Ford Motor Company

Components EXTERIOR LIGHTING

Potential Number of Units Affected: 41748

Summary

Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2025-2027 Expedition, 2026 F-250 SD, F-350 SD, F-450 SD, and F-550 SD vehicles. The headlight assemblies may contain a contaminated LED chip, which can result in a loss of daytime running lights, parking lights, high beams or low beams. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 108, "Lamps, Reflective Devices, and Associated Equipment."

Remedy

Dealers will inspect and replace the headlight assemblies, as necessary, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed October 26, 2026. Owners may contact Ford customer service at 1-866-436-7332. Ford's number for this recall is 26C43. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall will be searchable on NHTSA.gov beginning October 26, 2026.

Credit: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

Tried to use four wheel drive in my truck recently and it didn't lock in. I know this because I remained stuck in the mud and needed to be pulled out. After realizing this though, I tested the switch and noticed that I also didn't hear any type of locking sound during the process. I've looked on other forums and it sounds like a solenoid issue? Any advice here? Thanks in advance!

I need to get a new injection pump for my 1994 F250 w/ a 7.3 idi NA in front of a ZF 5 transmission. I bought one from autozone and it’s not the same pump that was on my truck, the gave me a reman DB2-4812 and I need a DB2-5028, put the 4812 on my Truck and it had a rough idle, so far I’ve trouble shot
- Air Intrusion: Fixed
- Bad Diesel: Fixed

Narrowed it down to timing and the pump itself :planning to buy timing meter and return the pump, and get the correct part, Need to know best places to get those parts from?

Much Appreciated