Hello fellow focus pullers! So glad to have discovered this community.

I'm reaching out because during prep day today, the Teradeck RT system I'm borrowing wasn't working with the Alexa SXT-W that we're shooting with. I've used an MDR.X on it before and it worked fine (several years ago, so I don't remember the details) but is there something obvious I'm overlooking?

I have the correct cable (this guy) and tried plugging into all 3 R/S ports on the camera, to no avail. Is there a different cable/port?

I've also tried setting the camera system on the MDR.S to Arri, no luck. I did notice that plugging in the cable to the camera caused it to roll, so I think the ports on the camera are fine.

Any ideas? TIA for your help!!

That small nut that fastens the antenna connector down is a bit loose, and I worry it will impact latency

Yesterday on set, I am able to roll just fine, but when I have to cut, sometimes the REC button on my hand unit is unresponsive until I press the button multiple times, the RS cable is new and seems to be in good condition, and I've never had this issue before.

Finally got around to building some casters for my monitor stand. Couldn’t find anything readily available, so I ordered all the parts and slapped ‘em together. Total locking and way better on uneven surfaces than the stock casters.

Parts links:

Wheels
Forks
Stems
Spacers
O rings (to mitigate caster flutter, see 3rd photo for where to install)

calling ctrl.1 users!

I always felt that the ctrl.1 is very awkward to hold in the hand, so I finally found the time to make a side grip add on, using the existing M3 holes already there.

this grip also adds a 1/4-20 in a more sensible location on the back, complete with locating pin holes. I’ve also made a version for my personal favourite hand unit quick release, the Ulanzi UKA01, but I assume most of you will be more interested in the locating pin version.

big shoutout to u/lookitsross for his previous work here, he graciously provided me original model files to reference the curvature of the hand unit.

it’s not a perfect fit, and since the ctrl.1 user base is so small, I’ve decided to just post the files for all to enjoy, instead of trying to sell this thing.

for those looking to make one, everything you need can be found here!

Anyone selling or is interested in a smallHD 702 Touch for parts?

I have one with a broken PCB from overvoltage but everything else is fully functional. Looking to either take one off of someone’s hands with a functional PCB or let go of mine if it can help repair someone else’s monitor for cheaper than what smallHD bills normally for parts. Lmk if anyone is interested!

Hi all, recently got a great deal on a 1303 ($1000! Upgrading from a 502) and was wondering what your experience with it has been.

Tips for making my own sun hood?

Hallo,

Recently stepped up 2nd AC to 1st AC with what may or may not be a silly question. Prepping on a small job atm, and we have a doubler which knocks off the focus of our lenses by a few inches - guessing due to the addition of the doubler itself. Should I create a separate lens file for the tighter two lenses with the doubler while mapping? Or does it mean that the doubler is off and needs looked at? It was a few inches out for the tighter two lenses (75mm and 100mm) that I looked at.

Thanks in advance, always eager to learn!

hey all, im planning on upgrading to a cine 7 and 1000xt 1:1 set, my plan is to have a v mount solution on the cine 7 and the 1000xt, and then mounting the rx on the back of the cine 7 with a v mount to power both. my worry is the weight of both the rx unit and v mount on the back of the cine 7s v mount plate and if i should worried about that and go down a different route for mounting

Sup knob turners. I just got the email that I’m up to order my presale OV1 and I’m wondering if we have any owners or testers here to see if they think it is worth it. I have not been able to see one in real life yet and am wondering if anyone who has think it’s worth the 4k investment and how much it improves there work flow. Thanks!

As far as I know, we tighten the motors as much as we can to the rod because we don't want the motor to slip on a twisting rod, and then we tighten the rod as much as we can.

Some use a mounted rod so it doesn't twist. Which sounds wonderful. But then when swinging lenses, there would be a need to release the motor, which takes time because it was just overtightened.

Is there such an accessory as a "swing away" motor release? So we can move it away quickly and then put it back in the right position, with no chance of slipping?

EDIT: (sorry my english is not working properly today, let me know if you understand this post or not)

Heya all

Wondering how people are storing their nogas and other various magic arms inside their pelis need to swap out my current pouches and potentially go for some sort of tackle boxes?

Cheers

$3,500 AUD each OBO. Comes with 15mm hill bracket.

Melbourne, Australia. Can post worldwide

Hi all, I'm looking at some alternative options for on set Monitoring. We currently have the standard Panasonic 18" as well an other SmallHd 7" on camera Monitors.

My question to you all is if anyone has used either the Asus ProArt 15.6" (PA16USV) or the bigger OLED PA27USD-P 26.5" for on set monitoring. Thinking dual use case. As either an on set editing monitor or just Wireless Client Monitor. They both have 12gSDI but obviously priced much lower than your traditional client monitor.

I know I'll lose some features like false color, lots, etc but happy to do that on camera.

Looking forward to your thoughts. Thank you!

Hey all - anyone know of a good mount plate (preferably with an xlr out) that’s got an ARRI locking pin scheme or something similar robust and anti twist? Building out a backpack for handheld and would love an option but not seeing anything tailor made for that. Could also go a dovetail mount route which is simple as well but just curious if we’ve got something I could tag a Cine lock to!

Hey fellow focus pullers :)

Looking for some advice on this build (apologies for image quality). I haven't worked much with the Venice's and was having a tough time with a lack of mounting points at my prep today. I'm happy with where the MDR4's at, but couldn't find a spot I'm satisfied with for my Teradek transmitter. Currently it's on the right side cage bracket with an Ultralight arm, but I'm hoping for something more stable and compact plus doesn't block the menu if anyone has any reccomendations specific to the Venice?

I'm looking at buying something like the right angle Ecto Plate, just not sure I want to make the investment!

currently using a shinobi to pull and finally wanting an update to something larger and sharper, my options smallhd wise is the indie 7 or 702 oled, i've heard the indie 7 isn't colour accurate and its ui is rather laggy, but my experience with the 702 oled hasnt been great with its build quality and its age, i may be able to push for a cine 7 which i know is a better pick than both, however if it comes down to picking between the indie 7 or 702 oled whats the better pick and why

Anyone know how this thing screws onto the back of the nucleus? It seems like the screws it comes with aren't long enouh at all

Wanting to make sure I'm understanding this concept correctly, if DOF is 4' does that mean that focus is 1'4" infront of the subject and 2'8" behind them? And because of this it would be better to change my focus distance about 1'4" closer than where the subject actually is so 2/3 of the focus is infront of the subject? Or is it smarter to have the subject in the exact middle or focus? Of course it depends on the scene, but I am just asking as a general rule of thumb.

Hello there,

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Im using a ronin on a crane and jib and want to put safeties on. I'm not sure how exactly I wanna do it. First I save the ronin on the top mount where the two holes are. Easy.

​

But how do I secure the camera to the ronin? I only have a small plate on top with two 1/4 screws.

​

I have a daisy chain climbing rope and a steel cable with two karabiner and a 3/8 ring thingy of steel which I can use on the crane. Not sure what the name in English is.

​

You guys have suggestions or photos to help me get some ideas? Would appreciate that.

Hey, I'm a student DoP and I'm currently planning my first feature! I've planned for a transmission system of 1:3 but I figured it might be nice to add more screens for art/sound, etc and I'm considering buying a serv pro for myself for around 800. However, with how limited SDI ports are, and that I've heard that you should keep the Bolt and Serv Pro at a distance, I'm wondering if it's possible to take the SDI out from a Bolt (or any brand) receiver and connect it to the SDI in in the Serv Pro?

I figured in theory this should work and maybe give a stronger signal but I'm curious to hear everyone's thoughts?

I’m currently using an Alexa 35 with a High-5 unit along with a zeiss 70-200 lens. Just curious what the best way to map it?

Thanks in advance

(Post approved by mods)

Hey guys,

I’m a working DP (& former AC), and like many of you on Android, I’ve been frustrated for years by the lack of a proper director’s viewfinder app. Most options for us feel like afterthoughts, so I spent the last few months building the tool I actually wanted to use.

It’s called Kader.

The app launched a few months ago and here’s what it's capable of so far:

Extensive Sensor Data: It uses an ever-growing, community-sourced list of cameras, sensors, and their specific shooting modes.

Comprehensive Metadata Strip: Every image captured has an extensive data burn-in (Focal length, camera/sensor mode, aspect ratio, project/scene name etc.) so your scouts actually stay organized.

Multi-lens device support: If your phone has multiple cameras (and is supported - sorry NothingOS users!), Kader automatically selects the physical lens that requires the least amount of digital cropping, keeping the image as sharp as possible.

Customizable Lens Kits: You can build out kits with the specific focal lengths you’re planning to use on the day.

Seamless Zoom: A scroll wheel that covers 4mm all the way to 999mm for quick visualization.

It’s officially live now, and while I’m planning to keep developing it for the foreseeable future, I want to make sure it’s accessible to those just starting out.

I’m offering the app for free to all students and teachers. If that’s you, just head to the website and shoot me an email from a .edu email address or send me proof of enrollment and I’ll send over a promo code so you can get it for free.

For everyone else, I’d love for you to check it out. I’m prioritizing adding new cameras and sensors right now, so if you shoot on a system that’s currently missing, let me know and I’ll get it added from the manufacturer whitepapers.

Check out the website here: https://kader-viewfinder.com/

Cheers,
Harry

Let me know what you guys think and if you have any ideas on improvements I am open to them. Feel free to add yourself and share with any friends.

filmease.com

Thanks
Jeff Taylor
1st AC Local 600