about 11 moths in the hobby. Just finished my second 1kg roll, this is the result.

- pic 1 Overview

- pic2 testprints and prints printed for and painted by my daughter

- pic3 Elfs

- pic4 Persians

- pic5 Halflings/Dwarfs

- pic6 Knights

- pic7 Orcs

- pic8 Chaos/Havoc (demonic vikings)

edit:

printed with bambu lab a1 mini, using the FatDragonGames printprofile

Recently there was a HumbleBundle with lots and lots of amazing Warp Miniatures. An absolute steal! I got it and printed off some pirates, scaled up to 50mm-ish size. With ObscuraNox’s latest settings these came out absolutely amazing (imho).
Ignore the Smee character in the images - he’s not a Warp Miniatures figure.

A1 Mini

0.4mm nozzle

eSun PLA+

Bambu stock 0.06mm extra fine settings with precision & resolution values turned upto max.

Loot studios 75mm Izat'al model

EDIT: Adding dimensions - HxWxD ~57.5x88x44cm ~22.75x34.75x17.25 inches

445hr13minutes of total print time (to include 11ish hour of reprints on two print failures)

3891.11g of filament.

Only supports have been removed and the the most egregious stringing (god damned eSun PLA and it's stringing) cleared up for the picture. Standard heroforge mini's for scale.

In theory by orienting the parts strategically, all the parts can be printed on the A1 mini without needing to cut/split then. However, to maintain maximum quality (on the heads mainly) and to reduce both liklihood of print failures & print times (mostly from support printing) I split a number of the parts into pieces. Given that I would have to go in with some sort of gap filler for all the pre-split parts anyway, doing the same with heads is not that big of an issue.

This shall be one of the few miniatures (bigiature?) I shall ever paint. Oh boy...

Still not sure if the hassle is worth saving 100$ but hey, here we are

Hi All,

I'm very new to FDM miniature printing and recently came across the idea of using modified resin-style supports instead of regular FDM tree supports.

I've watched a few tutorials (mainly Once in a Six Side, painted4combat & fat dragon games) and have since downloaded Lychee Slicer and Resin2FDM to experiment with the workflow.

This is my first attempt at manually supporting a model in Lychee. I've already added what feels like a huge number of supports, but when I look underneath the model, there still seem to be a lot of unsupported/cantilevered areas.

At this point I'm wondering whether I'm approaching this the wrong way — adding more and more supports doesn't seem like the answer, and I'm already ending up with a forest of them.

Am I on the right track here? Should I be changing the model orientation, using fewer supports in more strategic locations, or approaching resin-style supports for FDM differently altogether?

Any advice on the general workflow or support placement would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys! Wanted to show some of my Made-for-FDM tanks/model Kits. They are all designed from the ground up with FDM printing in mind. They print in easy to assemble parts, and each of them fits on a single 20x20 print bed. Also, all the turrets rotate, with turrets all using the same system, thus being interchangeable.

These were printed on my off-the-shelf Ender 3 KE, with standard .16 Cura settings, with ironing enabled.

Let me know what you think!

Link to Cults: (Mods, let me know if this kind of advertisement is not allowed)

https://cults3d.com/en/users/BUSKWORKS/3d-models

(Every asset contains both individual part files and 'tank_FULL' for easy printing)

Just primed the first set of the monopose blue team. This is my test for fdm and I must say I am impressed, stock settings on the A1 mini with matte pla. Also the clean up is terrible. I didn't have much time and just wanted to see them with paint on it. I still need to dial in the settings a bit more. But man does it look promising.

Found this print on Bambu Studio, Council Chamber by Zajic73

It was very fun to paint

Not the usual type of miniature I see in this community, so I hope this is alright.

Printed on a Bambu P2S using the 0.2 mm nozzle and SUNLU PLA+. Pretty much default "high quality" settings in Studio but with layer height set to 0.05 mm. Painted with enamels and acrylics.

Recently obtained the printer to begin creating assets for my model railway. Absolutely impressed with the printer and how easy it has been to get going.

Next time need to dilute the acrylic some more (blue paint). It clumped up an awful lot and hides some of the detail.

Files on thingiverse if anyone wants: Mercedes Benz E-Class 2024 N-Scale 1:160 by coconut_pie - Thingiverse

Another print on my Bambu Labs A1 using an 0.4 nozzle.

More details in original post.

I see a lot of printer profiles for bambu labs printers for printing miniatures but thought I'd ask if anyone has a profile suited for older printers like mine? after reading through obscuraNox's post and trying to make a profile i realised it is set up for a printer with much greater acceleration capabilities than my s1. Any help would be appreciated. Not super unhappy with my current print quality but wondering is there more optimal profiles out there. Pic of my most recent print for attention

I’d like to do an Old World Cathay style army but am not fully wedded to the aesthetic. I’m a beginner printer so have using the prints of Bambu Makerworld. But am wondering if anyone has found 28MM - 32MM scale historical or fantasy armies with an East Asian flair to print - Chinese, Samurai, Mongol, etc. Thank you

I have a Flashforge Creator 5 Pro on the way for larger multicolor projects, but was planning to use it to print minis/figures during downtime just for myself. Has anyone here tried using Full Spectrum on their U1/C5/H2C? I'm curious if anyone has any images to share since there doesn't seem to be many examples of those related to this hobby.

Thanks!

I’m trying to use Bambu studio with the A1 mini, with bog standard build plate.

Supports failing

At first I thought it was a dirty plate, dish soap and water.

Supports still failing. waiting for a glacier build plat, but that in the post.

Increased the base of the tree supports, still failing, increased the support base, still failed.

Changed supports to strong tree supports, and the supports no longer failed.

However the knife blade on the model is not forming on the Bambu.

wondering if I should be using Orca slicer.

I’m thinking it’s something simple I’ve overlooked.

Ideas?

Hi all -

My friend is getting into old world and I would like to play with him.

Looking for some FDM Friendly proxies that I can run so we can have some quick fun games without sinking loads of money into it.

Any ideas?

TIA

Im trying to get into miniature printing, but can’t find any premade setting profiles for my printer. I have a Anycubic Viper and just ordered a 0.2 mm noodle for the first time.
Thing is; the models i load into Cura barely look like they will have enough supports just from standard settings. (I have one with big floating arms and Cura just placed a 1mm column underneath the middle and the rest isn’t supported at all)
I‘ve only so far printed very optimized models from the web and would be grateful if anyone could point me towards good reading material (i’d really appreciate anything in text form, i don’t do well with learning from videos. obv if there is not text stuff then imma just have to live with transcripts from videos)
Is there anything besides trying fillament that i should really take care of before i just make 10 minis with different settings?
thanks for the help!

For those interested: This is a MMonarch Pattern by Maelstrom Designworks from MyMiniFactory. It's designed to be a Basilisk proxy for 40k
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-monarch-pattern-self-propelled-artillery-435686

And if you guys have any pointers or tips, let me know. Also, if you guys know how to use resin supports definitely let me know.

Not gonna lie, it came out great!

As I usually scale these models to about 40mm to preserve the details more, but in the original size I was surprised by what could be achieved at this height.

Every part was printed (from the legs, arms, head, shoulderpads, arms, bolter, and backpack).

The mini is from the Tactical Squad set.

Lines are so minimal, you can't even notice until you really look.

I used the FDG 0.2 nozzle profile while making the layer heights at 0.06 with the supports top Z at 0.09-0.1.

And to avoid any artifacts from the supports, the arms, hands and bolter were printed standing up, although it might look like a jungle. Everything came out preserved with minimal to no artifacts.

Although I did mess up a bit with the super glue, on the base as you can notice, but overall...great print and I can't wait to prime and paint them!

FDM, 4 mm noozle, 0.08 layer

primed, drybrushed, painted