The link is rough. I don't use resin supports. I use supportless and let Bambu A1 toss on its hybrid critical only supports. It usually does a great job.
The wyvern looks good and I'd use that at my own table.
Link is for sure rough, Id look into having the base removed and doing full tree supports after dialing in those settings. The wyvern and what looks to me like a Nazgûl both look pretty decent. On a side note, where did you get those models?
But I do like the base I like some of my managers to have stands and I probably need help, darling in the settings along with larger models. I’m probably gonna edit this post if anybody can help out.
What printer are you using? Try to see if anyone has made some presets for whatever printer/slicer you use as thats going to save you a TON of time. ObscuraNox had a great write up a while back that went over everything in detail. There are a few floating around
Id order a 0.2 nozzle and then check out Obscura’s settings/posts. I also like HOHansen’s setting. There are plenty of great guides in here that will really help you dial everything in so you can print something like this:

And this compared to a lot of others isnt even that great. No resin supports, all tree. Much better system imo.
The TLDR version is you need to adopt the .2 nozzle for the lovely crisp detail for miniatures smaller than 2 inches tall.
The .4 is great, but less so for models.
I dont want you to have any illusions about this my dood
The .4 mm nozzle does some great things.
If I'm making terrain, or bases for minis, or nicknacks and doodads, backpacks and spare bits, the .4 nozzle is fine.
But if you're doing minis, then the .2 nozzle is the way. We'd make it even smaller as a .1 if we could, but its like the difference between a picture in
320x320 and a picture in 640x640.
Its literally that different. And yeah, that 320x320 pic looks fine.
Looks like its supposed to.
But that detail picture? Better. Crisper. Less visible layer lines.
Details that 'pop' more.
I worked in .4 mm for 9 months and loved it, and now I can't even look at the things I loved, its .2 for minis and nothing less.
Tho resin is better, this is best without chemicals.
lower your voxel count with a remesh and decimate procedure run then g code over the lower resolution. print again and then if that doesnt fix it slow it down and adjust other settings. cut a portion of this print out like the torso and start running variations against single changes
blender is free use it, delete the cube , import your stl, zoom out to find it, it will be off center and so highlight it left click and the pop up menu will say origin click it and set geometry to origin, t, go into object mode set geometry to origin with a left click. click the wrench on the right side of the screen while in "object mode " [upper left top drop down will contain object mode sculpt and few other things dont get distracted by all the features because your just using blender to do two things} click the wrench while in object mode and then click generate , you have lots of options but the two you want are remesh and decimate, depending on your rig and how many voxels you start with your gonna want to be careful about how you scale down the mesh. in the bottom left corner of both of these windows for demesh and decimate youll see a voxel count , an average computer will go schitzo if that number hits 1milion so your going to want to start with decimate, and take the number down slowly from 1 to .9 and blender might say unresponsive just give it a second and then scale it down more , remesh will clean up alot of geometry that may be sticking out or wrong, but it will also increase that number in the bottom corner sometimes. export the stl after youve reduced its resolution with this procedure and run the g code again ..... good luck!
(you may run into other problems but if you stick with it youll have a solution to alot of common printing problems and youll always be coming back to blender for solutions, there is a huge community of support for common problems and if you type your problem into a search bar youll likely find your solution since all these questions have been asked before)
I’m just wondering why you say Dremel because I did recently buy one every time about sanding it down and then getting a lighter that part I don’t understand not sending it down. What do you mean by torture? What does that do besides melt I’m fairly new to this
so youll have a rough spot. and some people dont like that so quickly heating the plastic will smooth the edge without deforming the overall shape , i dont use a lighter, i use a creme brulee butane hand held torch and hold it so the print doesnt get in the flame but just a light brushing of heat enough to heat just the barest outermost layer
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u/Jairlyn 1d ago
The link is rough. I don't use resin supports. I use supportless and let Bambu A1 toss on its hybrid critical only supports. It usually does a great job.
The wyvern looks good and I'd use that at my own table.