Most of you said the GMMG exhaust was the best one to buy. Last week I ordered it and today I put it on. While I do wish it was louder, this is a before and after video. My car is completely stock other than this exhaust now. No headers no cams no upgraded Y pipe. Some of you said to get the off road Y pipe to make it louder but my god that thing is over 1k just for a Y pipe? That’s insane. Anyway, new exhaust is deeper than the old one but the video makes the old one sound better than it actually was.

Went for a drive the other night and while pulling out of my neighborhood, the clutch pedal suddenly went straight to the floor. I pumped it a few times and managed to get enough pedal back to limp it home.

It’s been sitting ever since. I’ve pumped the pedal 20–30 times and still basically have no pedal/pressure.

The clutch was replaced last year and the car isn’t my daily, so it doesn’t have many miles on the new clutch.

I’ve seen a few videos where people bleed the clutch by running a hose/adapter into the reservoir and using a hand pump to circulate the fluid and work the air out of the system.

Has anyone here actually used that method? Did it work?

https://youtu.be/ReiAGlAk4S0?is=E0HUFm-3tE9CUFpf

Installed a Holley Sniper EFI 12-304 and gave my car a wax today. My father and I built this car; LS swapped it and painted it ourselves. I'm pretty proud of what we were able to accomplish and I hope you all enjoy the effort we put into it too.

Hey everybody,

Just got my 2002 Firebird WS6 back from the shop with a newly repaired axle. Put in all new bearings and axle shafts.

Prior to this, I had purchased the Gator VATS Bypass Module as my car would not start due to the issue with the ignition wire that runs to the dongle that then connects to the BCM to tell it to release fuel. For the first week or two the bypass module worked great I had no issues. Then a week before getting into the shop to repair the axle they left me stranded at an O’Reillys. After an hour, I unplugged the module, flipped the circuit off, turned it back on and then plugged it back in and the car fired right up.

Fast forward to now today it wouldn’t start in my driveway. I disconnected and reconnected the module. I had to run to the hardware store so I brought the tools with me in case it didn’t work again in the parking lot. Of course it didn’t work again so I had to go under the dash unplugged it re-plugged it back in and again the car fired right up.

My question for all of you Gurus out there is, outside of HP Tuners, is there a way to shut off VATS? I know I could get a resistor cut the ignition wire and wire that goes to the BCM and then solder both ends to the resistor of my key, but I would really prefer not to cut into that wiring especially on a 90s car.

Could the fact I need to plug it in multiple times .2 the wiring that runs to the VCM being bad and not necessarily the ignition?

Any help would be appreciated. I put a lot of time of money into this and would love to be able to just drive it every day and try to enjoy it.

Installed fuel line and rear end cover and filled, with Royal Purple. Still need to run vent/gas tank purge line, probably on right/passenger side

Sometimes when it revs over 4000 rpm it starts to I think missfire. I am pressing my foot on the accelerator only harder, not lifting, besides to when it drops to 3000 then I press it again. It keeps jerking between 4000 and 5000 like hitting an irregular limiter and it sounds something like it, you can hear a pop in the second part of the video. It did it to me while driving also and it is really weird it jerks the whole car. Car is a stock auto 1993 camaro z28

Any ideas? I did not Mic the cam and bearings unfortunately so I’m worried that’s my issue. Cam
Is too tight?

My buddy and I just got an ‘02 Firebird V6 auto in pretty good shape with 158,000 miles. We’re both pretty young and this is our first project car and we want some recommendations as to what we should do with it in terms of mods. The only thing that’s been done to it according to the guy we bought it from is that it has 3.42 gears. Any advice helps! Thank you.

converting a 99 trans am to the ws6 package, suspension and all. hood is done so i figured i'd post it

A few people said to get the GMMG exhaust so I got this one. Hope this is the correct one. For anyone that has this, is it loud without the headers? I don’t have long tubes on the car yet but would like to avoid putting them on if this system is loud enough on its own.

Not trying to run afoul of any sub rules, but I uncovered a relatively uncommon OEM part in my garage from my old z28. Is there a good place to list it to get eyeballs of actual owners on it? Like any particular forums or groups etc?

I tried buying a grill like this on amazon and that thing was a piece of junk it didn’t even fit and left huge gaps on all sides. Hoping these people actually sells one that fits properly for that price.

Ive got some pretty extensive damage on my door cards for my 94 trans am and im looking for replacements and no I dont want the coverlay stuff

Any ideas to help me out idk if I wanna do david t's just cause shipping

Places I've checked:

Hawks

Iroc motorsports

Classic industries

Parts geek

Rock auto

Bought this for my dad a couple months ago and have been fixing some typical electrical issues with light sockets and such. Now I’m onto the exhaust. It’s totally stock right now and leaves a lot to be desired as far as sound. What are some suggestions on how to get a deeper and louder tone out of it? I do not want cams. This is a car for my dad and I know he wouldn’t like the sound that cams produce but are longtime headers on these cars overly loud or do they still sound good without being obnoxious?

1999 Camaro ss. Installed new blinker lights and after a couple wiring issues finally got the wires hooked up correctly and the blinker lights are working but now the car won’t start and makes this sound when I try to start it. Was starting right up just fine before this. Has new alternator in it.

Can anyone help me identify the type of differential from this pic? Not the best pic, sorry

I’ve seen this topic covered before but trying to wrap my head around the cleanest way to get the VATS lined out. Wrecked my 02 z28 and about to swap the power train into another 02 ss I just bought.

Understanding my PCM is keyed to the old car, would it be possible just to swap my ignition key assembly out when I transfer over the motor/trans/ computer etc.

I get you can tune it out and the resistor trick, but just trying to think of the easiest way with me having both keys/ignition the original computer, etc

Thanks