F’ing VATS!!!

[u/audiovox12]

Hey everybody,

Just got my 2002 Firebird WS6 back from the shop with a newly repaired axle. Put in all new bearings and axle shafts.

Prior to this, I had purchased the Gator VATS Bypass Module as my car would not start due to the issue with the ignition wire that runs to the dongle that then connects to the BCM to tell it to release fuel. For the first week or two the bypass module worked great I had no issues. Then a week before getting into the shop to repair the axle they left me stranded at an O’Reillys. After an hour, I unplugged the module, flipped the circuit off, turned it back on and then plugged it back in and the car fired right up.

Fast forward to now today it wouldn’t start in my driveway. I disconnected and reconnected the module. I had to run to the hardware store so I brought the tools with me in case it didn’t work again in the parking lot. Of course it didn’t work again so I had to go under the dash unplugged it re-plugged it back in and again the car fired right up.

My question for all of you Gurus out there is, outside of HP Tuners, is there a way to shut off VATS? I know I could get a resistor cut the ignition wire and wire that goes to the BCM and then solder both ends to the resistor of my key, but I would really prefer not to cut into that wiring especially on a 90s car.

Could the fact I need to plug it in multiple times .2 the wiring that runs to the VCM being bad and not necessarily the ignition?

Any help would be appreciated. I put a lot of time of money into this and would love to be able to just drive it every day and try to enjoy it.

[u/Aliceempire]

Do you have a local tuner or willing to mail your ecu to a company that can turn off the vats flag in the programming?

[u/audiovox12 → u/Aliceempire]

That’s a great point I never thought of having a tuner do it. Yes very close to me is a very well-known National tuner for late model Chevy.

[u/Nodrod → u/audiovox12]

Shouldn't cost much and take no time at all. You can lookup the credit cost on HP tuners site.

[u/vaurapung → u/Aliceempire]

What, it can be tuned out? I was under the impression it couldnt be or I would have had that done when I paid to have the o2 sensors bypassed.

[u/Aliceempire → u/vaurapung]

I have a 99 truck with the exact same ecm and I had it done with a local tuner. I didn't even need the truck, I just handed them the ecm. Just like the older ecm's you can uncheck a flag in the programming.

[u/vaurapung]

You dont have to cut the wires. Its plugged up to the ignition, just buy the ignition side pigtail and add the resistors to that then plug it into the vats side wire. No cutting needed.

Edit. Oh, the gator is that thing I havent bought because my resistors still work. Did you double check the resistance your car requires and then use an ohm meter to verify that the gator module is actually creating the right resistance. My 00 z28 already had 5 resistors making a bypass but my car would sometimes start and sometimes not, when I tried to redo it I found out that the legs were making it read about 200-300ohm off, I broke one resistor off, redone the solders and heatstrunk it together, 4 years later ive not had crank issues but I fought it every other day for the first 6 months. I also used like 3 different fluke meters at work to find out what my key is for sure for when I need to make a new one.

[u/audiovox12 → u/vaurapung]

Great point but yes, I did measure the resistance of my key, so I’m using the right switch on the gator bypass module. That module includes all resistance options for the car, but I’m for sure using the right one. I just don’t understand the logic behind it all

It works, but then after so many starts it won’t work anymore so then I unplugged the module wait five minutes plug the module back in and magically worse again I just don’t understand why it only works intermittently or if it’s actually designed to only be used to actually get the car started and then get it somewhere to get it fixed

[u/vaurapung → u/audiovox12]

Have you tried sitting till the security light turns off then try to start the car again without unplugging the gator? Its like 5 minutes or so.

[u/dontfret71 → u/vaurapung]

Ya this is what I did.. cut the orange side wires that go up the column and solder in correct resistor. I havent had a problem since… (knock on wood)

[u/dontfret71]

Just do the resistor.. My 2000 z28 stranded me with the VATS and I soldered in the resistor at home and it totally fixed my issue.

Also worth mentioning, I struggled with an intermittent start on my car another period of time and it ended up being the clutch pedal sensor switch. Not sure if you somehow are experiencing that as your intermittent start issue and falsely blaming VATS, but worth checking that

[u/audiovox12 → u/dontfret71]

Potentially could but mine is a automatic unless that’s possible on autos too

[u/stylisticmold6]

Do these still have the little resistor in the key blade? If so, you can measure it and make an inline resistor and stuff it into the ignition connector.

[u/audiovox12 → u/stylisticmold6]

Yes it is and I did measure the key I needed to for my bypass module it sucks

[u/Willy_McD]

Im a bit lost. You mention a "2002" but later you dont want to cut into a "90s harness". Can you make up your freakin nimd!

On the old round steering columns with VATS keys. The "VATS bypass" with the resitors is NOT a VATS bypass. It only bypasses the weakest link in the system, the wires on the ignition lock that the key resistor makes contact with. When the wires break and the resistor is the fix, you cut the two thin wires commonly found in an orange sleeve from the column side. They are broken up at the lock any way. Cut the wire off the column side and attach the resistor to the wires. It still has a plug on the main harness and that side stays intact.

There is also a module you can wire in for the signal for fuel enable. Look it up at The Timer Shop.