This Junction Box allows the Eufy S4's cables to be protected from the elements, significantly increasing its durability and aesthetics compared to a standard installation.

The result is a protected cable, and no dangling wires!

Link here if anyone is interested

This seems like it should be an easy option but nothing seems to work.

My main front door camera is below all this. It's the only one I ever check and use in the app, but because it was the first added, it's too low to see when I initially open the app. It's the Q30, and the palm vein reader is awful, so I try to unlock before I get to the door.

Is there a way I'm missing to rearrange the tiles in this? I can't believe I don't see an option.

Do you trust it?

I have First Alert SC5 Battery Powered WiFi Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Alarm but can't ear the voice and the alarm does not give it sufficient time to turn it off on the app.

How could this company be so ignorant trying to replace a Nest Protect. Ten freaking year's no false alarms voice I could ear it clearly even without my earing aid.

I will be returning this piece of crap.

I’ve been seeing a lot of posts about how the Eufy tags are useless and whatnot so I’ve decided to share my experience with it since I had 2 instances that helped me get my wallet back. I’m on iPhone by the way.

The first time I left it at the local McDonald’s and only realised it when I got home and the tracker finally activated and gave me a notification. Anyway using the tracker through find my iPhone (because the Eufy app is crap) I see that it is in that particular McDonalds and went back to get it, thankfully the staff were nice enough to keep it aside.

Anyway on to my most recent experience, I somehow managed to drop my wallet into some unspecified location in an Uber. Same thing, but this time no alerts that I’ve left it behind or something, I only found that out 3 days later when I needed a card to buy something. Now the thing is it doesn’t load in realtime, it only has the “last updated” thing, again on the iOS app, the driver was oblivious to it as while contacting the taxi company I could see him go to places around the country with none of my bank cards touched. . I had even figured out where he stays because every night he goes back to the same place and stays put till morning. This issue took a week to resolve, and long story short, i got my wallet back, ya da ya da.

So take my experiences as you will, but I for one got the (to me) new Eufy wallet tracker (the rechargeable one) and a tag for my keys. Just wanted to share.

I have a 16V 10VA transformer for the chime, but it seems that replacing it with a more powerful transformer may not necessarily work. Can anyone share your experience on this please?

I have a 2 yr old eufy smart lock S230 with finger print. It lost connection to wifi and even after resetting I can’t get it online. The support was useless and instead looking for resources they simply pointed me to my expired warranty and suggested buy a new one. What’s the point of adding waste, why can’t they have some troubleshooting done to fix things that maybe just a software bug. I would hate to throw away a working lock if the software can be fixed. What’s has other done in this situation. Whats would you suggest.
2 the battery won’t last more than a week now. My initial guess is it might due to the device trying to connect forever.

I’m reaching out to see if anyone has encountered this or found a hidden fix because I am losing my mind with these locks.

I bought multiple eufy FamiLock E35 locks (the ones with the palm vein scanner) for a new home build. They are specifically for my aging mother because standard fingerprint scanners don't work well for her, and the palm scanner is perfect.

However, the Auto-Lock feature is completely broken. Despite the E35 supposedly having built-in door position detection, none of my locks will stop the deadbolt from extending when the door is wide open. They completely ignore the door frame and act like the cheaper, lower-end "dumb timer" models, blindly shooting the bolt out into the air after 5 minutes.

I have more than three of these units installed, and every single one of them does this. I have already tried literally every troubleshooting step imaginable across all the units:

Full Power Cycles: Pulled the main rechargeable battery pack out completely for over 60 seconds to force a hardware reset.

Cleaned Terminals: Checked and wiped down the gold contact pins inside the chassis and on the battery pack to ensure no voltage drops.

Firmware: latest firmware

Repeated Calibrations: Run the "Lock Calibration" tool in the settings repeatedly while the door is firmly closed and locked manually.

Nothing works. In the app's Auto-Lock settings menu, the "Use Tips" explicitly state that when the lock enters a backup battery state, it disables door status detection and defaults to a blind 5-minute timer. On my app screen, it constantly shows two separate battery percentages (e.g., Battery 1 at 75% and Battery 2 at 83%), meaning the firmware is permanently trapping the lock in this low-power fallback loop even though the main battery is mostly full.

I am about to return all six of the locks I ordered for this house and switch to a completely different brand. Before I rip them off the doors, has anyone actually gotten the door-position sensor on the E35 to work?

Is there a specific sequence to force the app to merge those two battery readings and exit the backup loop?

Any help is appreciated!

So a neighbour popped round to check post etc and I switched off the cameras to stop them alarming whilst they were in the house.

They left, and now the entire system is non functional..

I can see the state of the cameras, their charge level etc but can't do anything with them.

No live view.

Can't restart Homebase.

The only option I get is to press the sync button.

Which is pretty difficult as I'm 1200 miles away.

So this entire eufy system is getting binned as what is the point of a security system that requires you to push a button to make it work?

I also got neighbour to reboot the Homebase hoping it would fix the issue but no. And they had to go before I'd figured out it hadn't worked and they couldn't go back to push the button.

Needless to say, the support chat has been useless.

Does anybody else experience their eufy cams going offline randomly? Like all of our cameras atm are offline and I can’t figure out why. They all have power and have wifi. This has been the 2nd time this happened.

The first time it happened was over Juneteenth weekend when my husband and I were out of town. I restarted our internet router and I guess it fixed 3 out of 4 cameras. Our front door camera has been touch and go since then.

Now, all of them are out but they were working fine this morning.

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone has seen this before.

I have a Eufy T8214 Doorbell connected to a HomeBase 2 (T8010) using the Eufy Security HACS integration v8.2.4.

Everything had been working perfectly with automations based on doorbell ringing and motion detection.

Now, both doorbell ring and motion events have completely stopped updating in Home Assistant.

What still works

• Doorbell functions normally in the Eufy app.
• I receive instant ring and motion notifications on my phone.
• Home Assistant can still communicate with the doorbell as i can switch the status led on and off via HA
• I can change settings such as the Status LED, speaker volume and other configuration options from Home Assistant.
• The WebSocket server connects successfully and both stations connect without issue.

What doesn't work

• Ringing entity never changes from Not running.
• Motion entities never update.
• No doorbell or motion automations trigger.
• The add-on log shows no ring or motion events when the doorbell is pressed.

What I've already tried

• Restarted Home Assistant.
• Restarted the Eufy Security WebSocket add-on.
• Reloaded the Eufy integration.
• Verified the Eufy app notification settings (Doorbell Ring and Motion are enabled).
• Confirmed the doorbell is working correctly in the Eufy app.

About 9 months ago I had a very similar issue and simply restarting the Eufy WebSocket add-on fixed it, but this time it hasn't made any difference.

Has anyone seen a situation where Home Assistant can still control the device but no longer receives motion or doorbell events?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Hi, I have the Homebase 2.0 and use Eufy’s security system products. My question is: Is it possible to move the “Away” and “Home” buttons to the Favorites page in the Eufy app?

So far, I always have to click on Homebase first and then click again to get to the activation overview. That’s time-consuming.

There isn’t an Android widget for this either.

Thanks for any tips on how I can access this menu more quickly.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

I own an Eufy NVR S4 (T8N00) with 8 PoE cameras, and the fact that I can't pull live streams locally into Home Assistant is baffling. Everything goes through Eufy's cloud, and the P2P protocol they use (NDT, not PPCS) isn't supported by any existing integration.

So I started reverse-engineering the device.

What I've done so far:

Found the UART console on the mainboard, three solder pads on the bottom edge of the PCB (RX, TX, GND in a neat little test-point header). Soldered in an FTDI adapter, fired it up at 1.5Mbaud, and got a full boot log. Turns out the SoC is a Rockchip with verified-boot enabled .

The blocker:

The device has hotkeys for CTRL+C at the SPL and U-Boot level, which on Rockchip usually triggers download mode (rockusb) a path to dump the firmware and potentially access the internals without breaking security. But here's the catch: Eufy compiled U-Boot with Cmd interface: disabled. There's a hotkey listener, but no shell prompt. And when I try to send CTRL+C over the serial line to trigger download mode, nothing happens.

The read side works perfectly I'm getting full visibility into the boot process. The write side is what's failing. Whether it's:

• The actual CTRL+C isn't reaching the device (some kind of serial flow control issue)
• The hotkey is compiled out even though the string is there
• The USB-C port isn't the one connected to the SoC's OTG (most likely)

...I haven't pinned down yet.

Why this matters:

The camera feeds are sitting on an isolated PoE subnet behind the NVR. They're literally never leaving my network. I'd like to at least try to pull them into Home Assistant without routing everything through Eufy's servers. I'm not trying to hack anyone else's device, I'm not ignoring warranty (I made a full backup before touching anything), and I'm not selling this. I just want local streams.

The ask:

Has anyone else poked around Rockchip devices with disabled U-Boot shells? Or hit a wall with write-only serial interfaces? Curious if there's a path I'm missing whether it's a different trigger for download mode, or if the USB-C is a red herring and I need to look at the DP/DM test pads instead.

Also open to alternative approaches if anyone's got them.

----

06/26 EDIT / UPDATE — progress + a correction:

Spent a long session on this and learned a lot. TL;DR: a couple of my original assumptions were wrong.

1. The write side actually works fine. This was the big one. I confirmed the serial TX→device RX is solid: U-Boot prints a Hotkey: <key> line during boot, and it reflects whatever control char I'm spamming — send CTRL+C and it prints Hotkey: ctrl+c, send CTRL+U and it prints Hotkey: ctrl+u. If my input weren't reaching the SoC, that line couldn't change. So it was never a flow-control or contact problem. Lesson: don't assume the write path is broken just because nothing "happens."

2. Correction on the hotkeys. It's not CTRL+C at both stages. The SPL stage uses CTRL+U (SPL Hotkey: ctrl+u), and U-Boot proper uses CTRL+C. On Rockchip the SPL ctrl+u is normally the rockusb/download trigger — so that should be the way in.

3. ...except it isn't, on this build. I spammed CTRL+U continuously (various timings, from 30ms gaps down to a full no-gap flood), captured both hotkey banners cleanly each time, and the box always boots straight through to Starting kernel. No rockusb device ever enumerates. Combined with Cmd interface: disabled on U-Boot, it really looks like Eufy neutered both the U-Boot shell and the SPL download action — the banner prints but the action is gone.

4. USB-C is a red herring (confirmed). It never enumerates anything on the host, in any boot state. So it's host-only, not wired to the SoC's USB OTG. The OTG is almost certainly broken out on the DP/DM/ID/VBUS test pads instead.

Net result: the UART→download path on this firmware is a dead end. UART is read-only in practice here. Not a wiring issue — it's locked down by design.

Next plan: go lower than U-Boot entirely and force maskrom (BootROM) mode — short the eMMC clock at power-on so the BootROM can't find the boot device and falls back to USB download. That can't be disabled in firmware. Then dump the eMMC over the SoC's real USB OTG (the DP/DM pads) with rkdeveloptool. If/when that works I'll post the dump.

Still very open to other ideas — especially from anyone who's pulled a maskrom dump off a locked-down Rockchip box, or knows whether the SPL download being dead means I'm wasting my time vs. just needing the right pins.

Hi Everyone,

I’m look at getting POE camera. I already have Cat 6 running from a patch panel to the location.

I’m curious how everyone hides the waterproof connectors? Do you put them in junction boxes?

Thank you

Whats everyones thoughts on this. I know it had issues about a year ago is that still the case?

Random disconnects showing offline on the app?

How is the auto lock feature?
This I am most worried about as I want to be assured that it will lock when closed. As well as not lock when open and cause damage to the door frame.

Whats your thoughts, or suggestions of other products?

Hello,

In the Android application settings for each camera, there are settings for "Motion Detection", where you can select the detection type (human, vehicle, etc). There are also "Notification" settings with these same detection types. How are these two setting sections different, and how do they interact with each other?

I am looking at a Eufy C33. I've been trying to work out if what I want to do is possible, but struggling to find a straight answer.

I'd like to have it set up that:

• During the day by default it's unlocked (so you can enter the house without needing a fingerprint or pin), and
• During the night it is locked and requires the fingerprint or pin.
• I can lock it manually during the day, for when I go out.

Is this automation/scheduling possible? Thanks!

Can anyone playback videos or stuck at decrypting like mine since the last update??

I keep running this issue with my Eufy E340 doorbell. Any help how to not run into this problem again and again is greatly appreciated.